Coasts Flashcards
Three types of system
Closed
open
Isolated.
What is a isolated system?
Neither mass nor energy can enter.
What is an open system?
One where both mass and energy can enter.
What is a closed system?
One where energy can enter but not mass.
What is an element?
A feature of a system.
What is an attribute?
A characteristic of a system.
What is a store?
Places where elements are kept before moving on to another store.
What are relationships?
How elements are interconnected.
What are boundaries?
Places that prevent an element from moving to another system.
what are Inputs?
Elements that put energy into a system.
What is an output?
Elements that cause energy to leave a system or elements that are a product of a system.
What are the four major subsystems of earth?
Atmosphere
Lithosphere
Biosphere
Hydrosphere.
What is dynamic equilibrium?
When a system is in balance in a constantly changing system.
What is negative feedback?
When elements within a system are reduced and equilibrium can be maintained, the system stays in equilibrium.
What is positive feedback?
When inputs in a system continue to increase upsetting the equilibrium.
What is a landform?
A singular feature on a coastline.
What is a Landscape?
The coastline or sediment cell as a whole.
What are the four shores that make up the littoral zone?
Offshore
Nearshore
Backshore + on
shore = (beach shore).
What are the four inputs (sources of energy) on a coast?
Wind
Tides
Currents
Waves.
What is a fetch?
The distance travelled by wind or waves across open water, uninterrupted by land.
What is an ocean gyre?
Wind patterns that are circular, they can change waves and create currents.
What places have a high fetch and consequently have a high wave energy?
South west England and Wales
Chile
Western USA
South Western Australlia.
What direction is the prevailing wind in the UK?
South westerly prevailing wind moving to the North East.
What 3 factors affect wave energy?
The strength of the wind (which is determined by the pressure gradient)
The direction of the wind
The fetch.
How is wind moved/created?
Wind moves from areas of high pressure to a low pressure.
How are waves formed?
As air moves across the water, frictional drag disturbs the surface water, forming ripples this begins to create an orbital motion of water particles - as the water nears the coast and more energy is built horizontal movement of water occurs as waves are driven onshore to the beach.
What are the two types of tide?
Spring tide
Neap tide.
Which tide results in the biggest waves / greatest energy (Tidal range)?
Spring tides.
What happens regarding the Sun, moon and the earth during a Spring tide?
During a spring tide, the sun and moon are in alignment and as a result the strength of gravity from both the sun and moon that are both in line works together to create a larger tidal range (there is a bigger high tide and smaller low tide).
What happens regarding the Sun, moon and the earth during a neap tide?
In a neap tide, the moon is at a right angle to the sun, so the gravitational pull of the celestial bodies act against each other to create a smaller tidal range (low tides aren’t that low and high tides aren’t that high)
How do Spring tides and neap tides affect wave energy?
A greater tidal range caused by a spring tide, tidal currents will be greater and have greater energy, this affects the amount of transpiration, erosion as well as the height and length of the waves.
At what times throughout a month (30 day cycle) do spring and neap tides occur?
Day 1: Sun and moon in line to create spring tide
Day 7 and a half: Sun and moon are 90 degrees out of place creating a neap tide
Day 15: Spring tide occurs when moon is behind earth and sun is in front
Day 22 and a half: sun and moon become 90 degrees out of place again creating a neap tide
Day 30: Same as day 1.
What is a Rip current and how do they form?
Rip currents are powerful underwater currents occurring in areas close to the shoreline on some
beaches when plunging waves cause a build-up of water at the top of the beach
The backwash is forced under the surface due to resistance from breaking waves , forming an underwater current
This flows away from the shore more quickly due to beach features, such as a gap in a
sandbar, creating a rip current.
Describe briefly the beach cross section?
Breaker zone ->
Surf zone ->
Swash zone (and foreshore) ->
Backshore (sometimes containing berms).
What are the key features of constructive waves?
Strong swash Weak backwash More deposition than erosion Low height (under a meter) Long length Low frequency 6 - 9 per minute Low energy Creates gently sloped beaches.
What are the key features of a destructive wave?
Weak swash strong backwash Main process is erosion High wave height (more than a meter) Short length High frequency 11 - 16 per minute High energy Creates steeply sloped beaches.
What factors may affect what type of wave is present on a coastline?
In summer, constructive waves dominate but destructive waves dominate in winter
Constructive waves may become destructive waves if a storm begins
Climate change may increase the storm frequency within the UK
Coastal management may affect the type of waves that occur.
Example of a feedback loop involving constructive and destructive waves?
The presence of constructive waves causes deposition on the beach, which in turn leads to the
beach profile becoming steeper
Steeper beaches favour the formation of destructive waves which are then more likely to occur
The destructive waves erode the beach , reducing the beach
profile and leading to the formation of constructive waves
As constructive waves occur more frequently in summer when there are fewer storms, this means that the beach profile is more gentle in summer and steeper during the winter months when destructive waves are more common
This should lead to a state of dynamic equilibrium though in reality this may not occur due to external factors such as the wind strength and direction.
Outline what coasts of high energy are like?
Stretches of the Atlantic coast see high energy where the rate of erosion exceeds the rate of deposition, as a result erosional landforms are found in these environments.
Outline what coasts of Low energy are like?
These tend to be sandy and estuarine, here the rate of deposition exceeds the rate of erosion, and as a result depositional landforms like beaches, spits and costal plains tend to be found there.
Where does the oceans sediment come from (what are the sand sources)?
Rivers and estuaries
Cliff erosion
Offshore sand Bank
Biological material
What are littoral cells?
All coasts are divided into natural components called littoral cells (a sub section of the 11 major UK sediment cells)
Each cell contains a complete cycle of sedimentation
What is the littoral Budget?
A costal management tool used to analyse and describe the different sediment inputs and outputs on the coast and is used to predict morphological changes in a coast over time, it is the balance between inputs and outputs of sediment on a stretch of coastline.
Example of a negative feedback loop on the coast regarding the littoral budget?
Beach erodes during storm that is in equilibrium
Sediment forms an offshore bar forcing waves to break over it early,
Waves lose energy and dissipate sooner, reducing erosion
When storm calms the bar is slowly reworked back into the beach.
Example of a positive feedback loop regarding the littoral budget?
Storm breaches a beach that is not in equilibrium
A vulnerable area is formed
Beach becomes susceptible to blowout and vegetation is removed from beach
More erosion occurs because there is less vegetation and more and more vegetation is removed as vegetation becomes more sparse.
What are all the High energy coasts landforms?
Cliff retreat Headlands Bays Cliffs Arches Stacks Stumps Wave cut notches Wave cut platforms.
What are all the landforms found in landscapes of low energy?
Cusps Barrier islands Drift aligned beaches Sand dunes Beaches Tombolo's Spits Bars Barrier beaches.
What are the factors affecting the rate of erosion?
The weather The type of erosion Type of rock (Googology) Weathering and its extent Arrangement of the rock (the lithology).
How does the weather and type of erosion affect the rate of erosion?
Hydraulic action and abrasion/corrasion are the most significant types of erosion and bothy of these are exacerbated in storm conditions.
How does the type of Rock (Geology) affect the rate of erosion?
Hard rocks like granite resist erosion much longer than softer sediments like chalk or limestone.
How does the Lithology of rock affect the rate of erosion?
Lithology can include the layering of rock both horizontally and vertically, discordant and concordant, if soft rock is in front of the hard rock it will erode quicker.
What is tidal scour?
When the sediment in waves erodes and scours rock along the tide.
What are marine processes?
process occurring on, or due to the effect of, the sea.
What are the three main marine processes?
Marine erosion
Marine transportation
Marine and aeolian deposition.
What are the main types of marine erosion?
hydraulic action; Wave quarrying; abrasion/corrasion; attrition; contribution of solution/corrosion cavitation.
What is hydraulic action and how does it work?
Hydraulic action = A form of erosion in which air becomes trapped and compressed in joints in the rock or between the breaking wave and the cliff
The high pressure causes the cracks to force apart and widen when the wave retreats and the air expands. Over time this causes the rock to fracture
At the same time bubbles found within the water may implode under the high pressure creating tiny jets of water that over time erode the rock
This erosive process is cavitation.
What can hydraulic action form?
- wave cut notches/platforms
- cracks, caves, arches, stack, stumps
- bays and headlands
How is Hydraulic action linked to the sources of energy?
- when winds are higher, waves have more energy and therefore increasing the rate of hydraulic action
- When the tide comes in (high tide) waves have more energy and the speed of erosion by hydraulic action will be increased.
What is wave quarrying and how does it work?
high energy, tall waves hitting the cliff face have the power to enlarge joints and remove large chunks of unconsolidated rock from a cliff in one go, acting like a large digger on the cliff face.
What can wave quarrying lead to?
- wave cut notches/platforms
- cracks, caves, arches, stack, stumps
- bays and headlands.
how is Wave quarrying linked to the sources of energy?
- when winds are higher, waves have more energy and therefore waves have greater energy increasing the rate of hydraulic action
- When the tide comes in (high tide) waves have more energy and the speed of erosion by hydraulic action will be increased.
What is abrasion and how does it work?
the process where sediment is moved along the shoreline, causing it to be worn down over time, creating round and smooth surfaces over time.
what can abrasion lead to?
• wave cut notches/platforms
What is corrasion and how does it work?
When tides move in, they pick up bits of sediment from the seabed (a temporary sediment store/sink hurled against the cliffs at high tide, causing the cliffs to be eroded
The shape, size, weight and quantity of sediment picked up, as well as the wave speed, affect the erosive power of this process.
What can corrasion lead to?
- wave cut notches/platforms
- cracks, caves, arches, stack, stumps
- bays and headlands
What is attrition and how does it work?
Wave action cause rocks and pebbles to hit against each other, wearing each other down and so becoming round and eventually smaller. Attrition is an erosive process within the coastal environment, but has little to no effect on erosion of the coastline itself.
What is solution / corrosion?
The mildly acidic seawater can cause alkaline rock such as limestone to be eroded and is very similar to the process of carbonation weathering
This is a potential link between the carbon cycle, because as global warming leads to increased sea water acidity, the rates of corrosion related erosion could increase.
What are the four types of marine transportation?
Traction
Saltation
Suspension
solution?
What is traction?
Large, heavy sediment rolls along the sea bed pushed by currents.
What is saltation?
Smaller sediment bounces along the sea bed, being pushed by currents.
What is suspension?
Small sediment is carried within the flow of the water.
What is solution?
Dissolved material is carried within the water.
Describe the process of longshore / littoral drift?
Waves hit the beach at an angle in the direction of the prevailing wind (south westerly winds in the UK). The waves push sediment in this direction and up the beach in the swash
Due to gravity, the wave then carries sediment back down the beach in the backwash at a 90 degree angle. This pushes sediment along the beach over time in a zig zag motion.
Describe the process of deposition?
Deposition occurs when sediment becomes too heavy for the water to carry, or if the wave loses energy
High-energy coastlines continue to transport smaller sediment, so larger rocks and shingle are deposited in these environments
Low-energy coastlines have much smaller sediment, which is only deposited in these areas where there is a much lower water velocity. Deposition includes gravity settling and flocculation.
What is gravity setting?
A type of deposition in which the waters velocity decreases and subsequently sediment is deposited.
What is flocculation?
This is an important process in salt and tidal marshes
Clay particles clump together due to chemical attraction and then sink due to their high density.
What is Aeolian deposition?
Deposition that occurs as a result of the wind on the surface of the earth.
What is marine deposition?
Deposition that occurs due to any sea related processes.
What are sub aerial processes?
Processes occurring the open air or on the earth’s surface, including mass movement and weathering.
What are the three types of sub aerial weathering?
Biological
Physical/mechanical
Chemical.
What is weathering?
the breakdown or disintegration of rock in situ, leading to the transfer or sediment into the littoral zone, acting as an input most of the time.
What is mechanical / physical weathering?
any weathering that does not involve any chemical changes.
What are the three types of physical/ mechanical weathering?
Salt crystallisation
Freeze thaw
Wetting and drying
What is freeze thaw and how does it work?
When water enters a crack in a fault due to rain, it freezes in cold weather, when this happens it expands in volume by about 10%
The expansion exerts pressure on the rock, causing the crack to widen
With continuous freeze thaw, fragments of rock break away over time, collecting at the bottom of the cliff as scree
The fragments created here can often be used in costal processes to further increase erosion. For example in 2001, following a cold winter the south coast of England saw serious cliff falls from freeze thaw, mainly affecting porous rocks like chalk at the white cliffs of dover.
What is salt crystallisation and how does it work?
When saltwater evaporates, it leaves crystals behind. These grow over time and exert stress onto the rock, similarly to ice
The salt can also corrode some rocks, particularly if they contain a high amount of iron.
What is wetting and drying and how does it work?
Rocks undergo series of wetting and drying phases, and many rocks that are high in clay (such as shale) expand when they get wet and contract when they get dry, this can cause them to crack and break up.
What is biological weathering?
the breakdown of rocks that comes as a result of organic activity.
What are the five types of biological weathering?
Plant roots birds rock boring seaweed acids decaying vegetation.
How is plant roots a form of weathering?
Roots of plants growing into the cracks of rocks, which exerts pressure,
Eventually splitting the rocks
How are birds a form of weathering?
Some birds such as Puffins dig burrows into cliffs weakening them.
How is rock boring a form of weathering?
Many species of clams secrete chemicals that dissolve rocks
many animals also burrow into the ground to make nests
How is seaweed acids a form of weathering?
Kelp contains sulphuric acid, which dissolves rock minerals.
How is decaying vegetation a form of weathering?
Water flows through decaying plants and becomes acidic.
What is chemical weathering?
Weathering that involves a chemical reaction or chemical change.
What are the three types of chemical weathering?
Carbonation
Oxidation
Solution.
Explain how carbonation works?
Rainwater absorbs CO2 from the air to create a weak carbonic acid rain reacts with limestone to form calcium bicarbonate, which is then easily dissolved allowing erosion
Explain how carbonation works?
Rainwater absorbs CO2 from the air to create a weak carbonic acid rain reacts with limestone to form calcium bicarbonate, which is then easily dissolved allowing erosion
The cooler the temperature, the more carbon dioxide rainwater absorbs, making carbonation more effective in winter.
How does oxidation work
The reaction of rock materials with oxygen, when exposed to air, some rocks will become oxidised which in turn increase its volume causing the rock to crack
Most common with iron minerals
How does solution work as a form of weathering?
When rock minerals like rock salt (halite) is dissolved.
What is mass movement?
movement of material down a slope under the influence of gravity
What are the seven main types of mass movement?
- Soil creep
- Mudflow
- Landslide
- Rock fall
- Slumping/rotational slip/landslip
- Runoff
- Soilfluction.
What is soil creep?
a slow form of movement of soil particles downhill, it involves soil particles rising to the surface during wetting or freezing (moving downhill) and then returning back into the surface when it is wetted or frozen once again
Soil creep forms shallow terracettes and can be seen occurring through the build-up of soil on walls and the bending of tree trunks (Terracettes = a ridge on a hillside, like the ones at white horses).
What is a mudflow?
An increase in the water content of soil can reduce friction, leading to earth and mud to flow over underlying bedrock , or slippery materials such as clay
Mudflows represent a serious threat to life as they can be very fast flowing
Water gets trapped within the rock, increasing pore water pressure, which in turn forces water particles apart and leads to slope failure.
What are landslides?
Heavy rainfall can reduce friction in cliffs and lead to a landslide
It occurs when a block of intact rock moves down the cliff face very quickly along a planar surface (a slide plane) unlike mudflows the moving block of material stays intact and can lead to the build-up` of scree toward the bottom of a slope.
What are Rockfalls?
It involves the sudden breaking away of rock fragments at a cliff face
It usually occurs on steep cliffs made of resistant rock and often comes as a result of mechanical weathering (mainly freeze thaw weathering) or an earthquake
Once broken away the rocks form scree at the bottom of the coast, acting as a temporary store at a costal system.
What is slumping/ rotational slip / landslip?
occurs on surfaces that are curved rather than flat or steep
They commonly occur on areas of weak clays or sands, often when permeable rocks overtop impermeable rock which causes a build-up of pore water pressure
The land collapses under its own weight, due to increased PWP (Pore water pressure)
This creates a terraced appearance.
What is runoff?
when overland flow occurs down a slope or cliff face, small particles are moved downslope into the littoral zone, potentially creating an input into the sediment cell
Runoff can also be responsible for increasing pollution in coastal areas.
What is soilfluction?
Soilfluction is specific to cold, periglacial environments, where, in the summer the surface layer of the soil thaws out, becoming extremely saturated as the permafrost beneath it cannot be infiltrated
As a result the active layer (sodden surface layer) is moved slowly downhill as a result of heave and flow
This process can lead to the formation of Soilfluction lobes.