Coastal Systems and Landscapes: Systems and processes Flashcards

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1
Q

Define fetch:

A

The distance the wind blows

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2
Q

What is a sediment cell?

A

The largely self-contained stretch of a coastline.

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3
Q

Define backshore:

A

The part of the beach lying between the beach face and the coastline.

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4
Q

Define foreshore:

A

The area between the high tide mark and low tide mark.

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5
Q

What are constructive waves?

A

Waves that deposit material and built up the beach.

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6
Q

What is wave height?

A

The difference between the elevations of a crest and a neighbouring trough.

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7
Q

What are destructive waves?

A

Waves that take back material and destroy the beach.

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8
Q

What is wave frequency?

A

The number of waves produced each second.

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9
Q

What is hydraulic action?

A

Sheer force of the waves

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10
Q

Define solution:

A

Chemical makeup of the water

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11
Q

How does chemical weathering occur in a coastline?

A
  • Rainwater is a low-concentration acid
  • Over time rock will be dissolved
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12
Q

How does biological weathering occur in a coastline?

A
  • Roots enter and grow in a crack in the cliff
  • Rock breaks off
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13
Q

How does mechanical weathering occur in a coastline?

A
  • Freeze-thaw
  • Water enters crack in cliff
  • Water freezes, widening the crack
  • Ice melts, deepening the crack
  • Process is a loop
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14
Q

What is a sediment budget?

A

A coastal management tool used to analyse the different inputs and outputs within a coastal system.

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15
Q

What is a longshore current?

A

Current that flows parallel to the shore within the zone of breaking waves.

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16
Q

What is a low energy coast?

A

A coastline where wave energy is low and the rate of exposition exceeds the rate of erosion

17
Q

What is a high energy coast?

A

Coastline where strong, steady prevailing winds create high energy waves and the rate of erosion is faster than the rate of depostion

18
Q

What is upwelling?

A

Movement of cold water from deep in the ocean towards the surface

19
Q

What are rip currents?

A

Strong currents moving away from the shoreline

20
Q

What are the features of a destructive wave?

A
  • High wave height
  • Steep form
  • High frequency
21
Q

What are the features of a constructive wave?

A
  • Low wave height
  • Low frequency
  • Long wavelength
22
Q

Why do constructive waves have a weak backwash?

A

Water rapidly looses volume and energy as it comes up through the beach material, so it has an insufficient force to pull sediment out.

23
Q

Constructive waves have a ______ wave frequency.

A

Low

24
Q

What is backwash?

A

The action of water receding back down the beach towards the sea.

25
Q

What is swash?

A

The rush of water up a beach after a wave breaks

26
Q

What is a crest?

A

The highest point (top part) of a wave.

27
Q

Define mass movement:

A

The downslope movement of material, such as mud, rock or soil.

28
Q

What is attrition?

A

Material in the water hitting each other.

29
Q

What is abrasion?

A

When material is picked up and thrown against the cliffs.

30
Q

Define solution:

A

Chemical makeup of the water

31
Q

What is hydraulic action?

A

Sheer force of the waves

32
Q

What are destructive waves?

A

Waves that take back material and destroy the beach.

33
Q

What are the 4 sources of energy in coastal environments?

A
  • Wind
  • Waves
  • Tides
  • Currents
34
Q

What is the wavelength of constructive waves?

A

Up to 100m.

35
Q

Constructive waves have a ______ wave height.

A

Low

36
Q

What is the wave frequency of constructive waves?

A

6-8 per minute.

37
Q

Destructive waves have a ______ wave height.

A

High

38
Q

What is the frequency of destructive waves?

A

10-14 per minute.

39
Q

What is a sea current?

A

The permanent or seasonal movement of surface water in the seas and oceans.