COASTAL SYSTEMS AND LANDSCAPES CGP - Coastal Processes Flashcards
What are the two types of processes that affect the coast?
Marine processes caused by the sea. Sub-aerial processes aren’t directly caused by the sea.
Six main ways waves erode the coastline
Corrasion/abrasion Hydraulic action Cavitation Wave quarrying Solution/corrosion Attrition
Corrasion/abrasion (erosion)
Bits of rock and sediment transported by the waves smash and grind against rocks and cliffs, breaking bits off and smoothing surfaces.
Hydraulic action (erosion)
Air in cracks in cliffs is compressed when waves crash in. The pressure exerted by the compressed air breaks off rock pieces.
Cavitation (erosion)
As waves recede, the compressed air expands violently, again exerting pressure on the rock and causing pieces to break off.
Wave quarrying (erosion)
The energy of a wave as it breaks against a cliff is enough to detach bits of rock.
Solution/corrosion (erosion)
Soluble rocks (e.g.limestone, chalk) get gradually dissolved by the seawater.
Attrition (corrosion)
Bits of rock in the water smash against each other and break into smaller bits.
Transportation
The process of eroded material being moved.
What transports eroded material?
Energy provided by waves, tides and currents.
Four main processes of transportation
Solution
Saltation
Suspension
Traction
Solution (transportation)
Substances that can dissolve are carried along in the water. E.g. limestone is dissolved into water that slightly acidic.
Suspension (transportation)
Very fine material, such as silt and clay particles, is whipped up by turbulence (erratic swirling of water) and carried along in the water. Most eroded material is transported this way.
Saltation (transportation)
Larger particles, such as pebbles or gravel, are too heavy to be carried by suspension. Instead, the force of the water causes them to bounce along the sea bed.
Traction (transportation)
Very large particles, e.g. boulders, are pushed along the sea bed by the force of the water.
What is longshore/littoral drift?
The process of sediment being transported along the shore in the direction of the prevailing wind.
Describe longshore drift
Swash carrels sediment (e.g. shingles, pebbles) up the beach, parallel to the prevailing wind. Backwash carries sediment back down the beach, at right angles to the shoreline. When there’s angle between prevailing wind and shoreline, a few rounds of swash and backwash move the sediment along the shoreline.
Deposition is when…
…material being transported is dropped on the coast.