Coastal systems and Landscapes Flashcards

1
Q

define coast

A

the coast is a boundary between land and sea. Its dynamic environment consists of natural processes interacting with human activity

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2
Q

where is an example of a rocky coastline?

A

the white cliffs of Dover, Kent

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3
Q

where is an example of a coastal plain?

A

Keyhaven marshes, Hampshire

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4
Q

define littoral zone

A

the part of the sea close to the shore

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5
Q

explain how waves form

A
  • start as a circular orbit in open water
  • wave starts to become more elliptical In movement
  • increasing elliptical orbit, the waves begins to break
  • wave breaks causing swash and backwash
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6
Q

define swash

A

the movement of water up the beach when a wave breaks, deposits material

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7
Q

define backwash

A

the movement of water down the beach caused by gravity, causes erosion

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8
Q

what is the crest?

A

the highest part of a wave

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9
Q

what is a trough?

A

the lowest part of the wave

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10
Q

define the wavelength

A

distance between two successive crests

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11
Q

define wave height

A

difference in height between the trough and crest

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12
Q

what are factors that affect wave size?

A

wind speed
wind duration
fetch

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13
Q

what are some properties of a constructive wave?

A
  • strong swash
  • deposition
  • spilling waves
  • 6-8 per minute
  • generated by distant weather
  • longer wavelength
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14
Q

what are some properties of a destructive wave?

A
  • erosion
  • plunging waves
  • local storms
  • 13-15 per minute
  • strong backwash
  • shorter wavelength
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15
Q

why do surfers prefer constructive waves?

A

because they have a greater wavelength

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16
Q

what is an example of a high energy coastline?

A

Newquay, Southwest UK

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17
Q

what is an example of a low energy coastline?

A

keyhaven marshes, Hampshire

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18
Q

how do ocean currents influence the coast?

A

ocean currents move water around the worlds oceans due to thermohaline circulation
they can affect the coast by eroding areas that face ocean currents and deposit in areas facing away from the currents

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19
Q

what are tides caused by?

A

the gravitational pull of the moon and sun

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20
Q

what is the tidal range?

A

the difference between height of high tide and the height of low tide

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21
Q

define erosion

A

marine erosion is the process of the sea wearing away the coast. This occurs by tides and wave action.

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22
Q

what are the 5 types of erosion?

A
attrition
hydraulic
solution
abrasion
cavitation
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23
Q

explain attrition erosion

A

rough pieces of rock fallen from cliff collide causing them the break down into smoother rocks

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24
Q

explain abrasion erosion

A

material carried by waves is thrown against the rock edge making it smoother

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25
Q

spring tide

A

when the sun, moon and earth are in a straight line.

tidal range increases

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26
Q

neap tide

A

when the sun and moon are at right angles to the earth.

tidal range decreases

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27
Q

name the 8 factors that influence erosion

A
tides
fetch
geology
beach size
human activity
location of coastline
wave steepness
climate change
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28
Q

define landform

A

an individual feature created by marine processes. Some are created by erosion (caves). some are created by deposition (beaches)

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29
Q

define landscapes

A

the bigger picture. A combination of land, sea and coast, possible including landforms. (Great Ocean Road, Australia)

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30
Q

backshore

A

very back of the beach
normally dry
only exposed to waves in extreme conditions

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31
Q

foreshore

A

fully exposed in low tide

waves break here in high tide

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32
Q

nearshore

A

waves break here at low tide

safe for paddling at low tide

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33
Q

offshore

A

out at sea
deeper water
wind turbines can be constructed here

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34
Q

explain hydraulic erosion

A

waves break against rock compressing water and air into cracks. this repeated stress causes bit of rock to break off

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35
Q

explain solution erosion

A

weak acids in sea water dissolve calcium carbonate in some rocks

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36
Q

explain cavitation erosion

A

air bubbles trapped in fast moving water break against rocks underwater causing them to weaken

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37
Q

fetch

A

distance of water over which the wind blows

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38
Q

describe wave refraction

A

as waves approach the coast they bend. This means that wave energy and erosion is focussed on headlands and wave energy is dissipated in bays leading to deposition.

it occurs due to shallow water in headlands exerting friction on waves, slowing them. dipper water in bays allows them to keep going at the same speed

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39
Q

differential erosion

A

the rate at which different rocks erode

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40
Q

weathering

A

the breakdown of rock in their original place. Breaks rock down into sediment that can be used for erosion

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41
Q

mass movement

A

downhill movement in response to gravity of a rock and soil. sediment is created for erosion

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42
Q

runoff

A

heavy rain flowing down a cliff causing erosion

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43
Q

freeze thaw

A

repeated expansion and contraction of water in cracks

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44
Q

carbonation

A

carbon dioxide in rain forms carbonic acid which dissolves calcium carbonate in rocks

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45
Q

soil creep

A

wet soil particles increase in size and weight, they expand at right angles and contract vertically creating a slow movement downslope

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46
Q

rotational slip

A

heavy saturated soil sits on top of impermeable clay, creating a lubricated slip plane

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47
Q

mudflow

A

saturated soil flows downhill, triggered by heavy rain

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48
Q

landslide

A

rapid movement of detached slabs of rock slide down a slide plane

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49
Q

rockfall

A

individual rock fragments fall off cliff face often due to freeze thaw

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50
Q

salt crystallisation

A

salt water from waves evaporated leaving behind crystals, these grow over time and apply pressure to crack the rocks

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51
Q

wetting and drying

A

clay particles of soil expand when wet and contract when dry, this weakens soil and makes cracks vulnerable to other weathering

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52
Q

biological weathering

A
  • roots grow in cracks of rocks
  • birds and animals dig burrows in soft rock
  • rain passing through dead matter becoming acidic
  • marine organisms can secreate acids
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53
Q

examples of metamorphic rock

A

marble, slate

northern scotland

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54
Q

examples of igneous rock

A

basalt, granite

giant causeway, northern ireland

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55
Q

examples of sedimentary rock

A

sandstone, limestone, clay, chalk

malham cove

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56
Q

strata

A

layers of rock

57
Q

bedding planes

A

horizontal natural breaks in the strata

58
Q

joints

A

vertical fractures caused by contraction of sediment or tectonic movement

59
Q

folds

A

formed by pressure during tectonic activity making rocks buckle

60
Q

faults

A

formed when pressure on a rock exceeds its internal strength and causes fractures

61
Q

dip

A

angle at which the strata lies

62
Q

traction

A

BEDLOAD

large materials are dragged along the seabed. this requires the most energy

63
Q

saltation

A

BEDLOAD

smaller particles bounce along the sea bed. requires less energy

64
Q

suspension

A

SUSPENDED LOAD

fine silt and clay material is carried by the water. it may discolour it. requiring minimal energy

65
Q

solution

A

DISSOLVED LOAD

minerals like limestone and chalk are dissolved in water. requires little energy

66
Q

long shore drift

A

movement of sediment along a coastline.

swash comes in at same direction to prevailing wind. backwash at right angles to the beach

67
Q

what are influences of coastal transport

A

weight of sediment

energy of waves

68
Q

conditions required for deposition

A

when sediment loads exceeds ability of water and wind to carry it
sheltered coastline
low energy coastline

69
Q

marine deposition

A

sediment carries by water

70
Q

aeolian deposition

A

sediment carried by wind

71
Q

what are the 3 types of dip

A

horizontal
landward dipping
seaward dipping

72
Q

pebble beaches are

A

steep and narrow

water percolates through the shingle meaning backwash is limited

73
Q

sandy beaches are

A

flat and wide

very little percolation happens meaning backwash can carry material down the beach

74
Q

storm ridge

A

large material thrown at the back of the beach by more powerful waves

75
Q

berms

A

a step ridge found at high tide marks. material deposited by swash. often lots of ridges as tides move from spring to neap

76
Q

cusps

A

crescent shaped indentations forming on beaches.

sides channel incoming swash into centre of cusp and a strong backwash drags material down from centre of cusp

77
Q

runnels

A

grooves in sand running parallel to the shore.

formed by strong backwash draining to sea. exposed at low tide

78
Q

swash aligned beach

A

orientated parallel to incoming waves.
minimal longshore drifts.
constructive wave patterns
(eg. loee cornwall)

79
Q

drift aligned beach

A

waves approach at angle to shoreline.
longshore drift transport sediment. beaches are narrow
(eg. ordforness suffolk)

80
Q

spit

A

extended stretch of beach that projects out to sea and joined to mainland at one end
(eg. spurn point yorkshire)

81
Q

tombolo

A

a spit that joins an island to mainland

eg. st ninians isle

82
Q

bar/ barrier beach

A

long stretch of beach that joins two headlands.

eg. slapton ley devon

83
Q

barrier island

A

when a beach becomes separated from the mainland

84
Q

offshore bar

A

ridge of material created by waves offshore from the coast.

eg. culbin sands Scotland

85
Q

how are spits formed

A

sediment from erosion is transported by longshore drift and is deposited at the point where the coastline changes direction.
plants colonies behind the barbs to form salt marsh.

86
Q

what is a compound spit

A

a spit that forms barbs due to a change in wind and wave direction

87
Q

how do destructive waves create offshore bars

A

destructive waves can erode sediment from the beach with their strong backwash and deposit it offshore

88
Q

how do gently sloping coats create offshore bars

A

friction between the waves and seabed cause waves to break at a distance from the coast. over time the materials are built up parallel to the coast to from a offshore bar.

89
Q

dynamic equilibrium

A

a balance between input and outputs of a system

90
Q

open system

A

has inputs from outside the system

91
Q

closed system

A

transfers of energy both into and beyond the system boundary. but there’s no transfer of matter

92
Q

positive feedback

A

changes are amplified. system responds by increasing the effects of change moving the system even further from its original state

93
Q

negative feedback

A

system responds by decreasing the effects of change. keeping the system closer to its original state

94
Q

sediment budget

A

balance between sediment being added and removed from a sediment cell

95
Q

examples of positive sediment budget

A

cliff collapse
increase river discharge
more constructive waves

96
Q

examples of negative sediment budget

A

storm conditions
groynes
human activity

97
Q

natural succession

A

the evolution of plant communities over time

98
Q

pioneer species

A

plants that initially colonise and can withstand extreme conditions

99
Q

climax vegetation

A

the vegetation is in a state of equilibrium with the environment. Oak woodland in the UK

100
Q

plagioclimax

A

if human interference takes place (eg. cattle grazing) then the climatic climax vegetation will not be reached and it will be a plagioclimax instead

101
Q

psammosere

A

plant succesion in a sand dune environment

102
Q

what 6 features are needed for sand dunes to form

A
  • plentiful supply of sand
  • strong onshore winds
  • an obstacle to trap sand
  • large tidal range
  • gentle slope beach
  • large flat backshore area
103
Q

sand dune

A

an accumulation of sand shaped into mounds by the wind. Sometimes found at the back of beaches on low energy coastlines and swash aligned beaches

104
Q

why do dunes nearer the sea have a ph above 7

A

the contain more shell fragment containing calcium carbonate which is alkaline making the dune more alkaline

105
Q

what is the dominant plant species in sand dunes

A

marram grass

106
Q

how does marram grass create larger dunes

A

its growth is triggered by being burried in sand

107
Q

halophytes

A

plant that can withstand saline conditions

108
Q

what conditions must pioneer plant endure

A

salty conditions, periodic submergence

109
Q

example of pioneer plant in dune environment

A

sea rocket

110
Q

how do dune slacks occur

A

when the land dips below the water table, creating a wet environment and ponds when it rains

111
Q

estuary

A

the transition zone between fresh water environment and maritime water environment. A mixture of salty and fresh water

112
Q

flocculation

A

individual clay particles stick together forming larger heavier particles that sink to the sea bed

113
Q

examples of mudflat areas

A

morcambe bay, uk

cape cod, usa

114
Q

dominant plant species in salt marsh environment

A

spartina

115
Q

how do spartinas roots create salt marsh

A

fine mat surface roots bind mud together.

thick deep roots can secure up to 2m of deposited material

116
Q

halosere

A

plant succession in a salt marsh environment

117
Q

why might some coastlines be protected

A

high population
cost benefit analysis
tourism
important landmarks

118
Q

what are some argument FOR coastal protection

A

stops cliff collapse
stops coastal flooding
saves economic, social, environmental damage
creates jobs

119
Q

what are some arguments AGAINST coastal protection

A
very expensive with ongoing costs
money needed elsewhere
management in one area may disrupt another area
aesthetics don't fit surroundings
interferes with nature
120
Q

how many sediemnt cells are there in England and wales

A

11

121
Q

shoreline management plan

A

manage a cell rather than a political area, this means that management in one area wont affect another

122
Q

hold the line

A

maintain current position of coastline

123
Q

advance the line

A

building defences out to sea. Not common in the UK

124
Q

managed retreat/ strategic realignment

A

allowing coast to move naturally, managing process to direct it to another area

125
Q

do nothing

A

let nature take its course

126
Q

hard engineering

A

coastal protection that uses engineered man made structures. Eg. sea wall

127
Q

soft engineering

A

coastal protection that works with nature. Eg. Beach nourishment

128
Q

cost benefit analysis

A

only when the benefits exceed the cost can a coastal protection project go ahead

129
Q

outflanking

A

protection in other areas leading to differential erosion. Over time town project out to sea meaning they require more management which is unsustainable and unaffordable

130
Q

eustatic change (global)

A

the change in the amount of water in the sea.
global warming increases sea levels due to thermal expansion as water gets warmer. It is also due to melting freshwater ice sheets.

131
Q

isostatic change (local)

A

the change in the position of the land relative to the sea.
when large ice sheets cover the land it weighs it down causing the land to sink, this is called isostatic subsidence
when the ice melts the weight is lifted, this is called isostatic readjustment.

132
Q

tectonic change (local)

A

at destructive and collision plate boundaries tectonic plates push into each other causing lands to be lifted. This leads to a relative fall in sea level.
Tectonic activity can cause the land to fall leading to a relative rise in sea level.

133
Q

Ria

A

drowned river valley
when sea levels rise the lower courses flood leaving high land visible.
affected by high tides, low tides reveal extensive mudflats
branching v shape with gentle profile
commonly found in southwest England
E.g Falmouth, Cornwall

134
Q

Fjord

A

drowned glacial valley
as sea levels rise u shaped valleys left behind by glaciers are submerged
they are relatively straight and narrow with very steep sides
u shaped cross section
shallower section at mouth due to reduced erosion as glacier came into contact with sea
E.g Sogne Fjord, Norway

135
Q

Dalmation coast

A

long slim islands parallel to coast
sea levels rise and flood low valleys
Higher ground remained above sea level and form a pattern of islands
E.g Croatia

136
Q

Raised beaches

A

areas of former wave cut notches and their beaches which are at a higher level than the present sea level.
over time, beach sediment becomes vegetated and develops into soil
(eg. Isle of Arran, Scotland)

137
Q

marine platforms

A

a wave cut platform that now exist as an extensive flat area in front of a relict cliff, which has features such as caves, arches and stacks.
They are no longer eroded by the sea.
They slowly get covered in vegetation.
The raised features are degraded by weathering and mass movement.
(eg. Isle of Arran, Scotland)

138
Q

landforms of submergence

A

caused by sea levels rising
rias
fjord
Dalmatian coast

139
Q

landforms of emergence

A

caused by sea levels falling
raised beaches
marine platforms