Coastal Systems and Landscapes Flashcards
why are coasts open systems?
it receives inputs from outside the system and transfers outputs away from the coast and into other systems
in what circumstances can coasts be considered closed systems?
during scientific research, coastline management planning, etc
what is a sediment cell?
a largely self contained stretch off coastline
how do the flows of sediment act in sediment cells?
in dynamic equilibrium
is the movement of sediment contained in sediment cells?
almost
what is dynamic equilibrium?
the maintenance of a balance in a natural system, despite it being in a constant state of change
how is the balance in dynamic equilibrium achieved?
by inputs and outputs constantly changing to maintain balance, and counteracting any changes imposed on the system
what is dynamic equilibrium in a sediment cell?
inputs and outputs of sediment are in a constant state of change, but remain in balance
how can dynamic equilibrium be upset in the long term in sediment cells?
by human interventions
how can dynamic equilibrium be upset in the short term in sediment cells?
by natural variations
when are the smaller subcells, in sediment cells, used?
when planning coastal management projects
what are positive feedback loops?
coastal system mechanisms which enhance changes within a system, taking it away from dynamic equilibrium
what are negative feedback loops?
mechanisms which balance change, taking the system back towards equilibrium
what are the 6 sediment sources?
- rivers
- cliff erosion
- wind
- glaciers
- offshore
- longshore drift
what are sediment budgets?
they use data of inputs, outputs, stores and transfers to asses the gains and losses of sediment within a sediment cell
what is the littoral zone?
the area of land between the cliffs or dunes on the coast and the offshore area that is beyond the influence of the waves
why is the littoral zone constantly changing?
short term factors like tides and storm surges, and long term factors like changes in sea level and human intervention
what is shore/shoreline?
the boundary between the sea and the land
what is offshore?
the area beyond the influence of the sea
what is onshore?
the area of land not covered by the sea, but very close to it
what is the primary source of energy for all natural sources?
the sun
what is the main energy source at the coast?
from waves which are formed offshore
when do waves occur?
when wind moves across the surface of water
how is a wave formed?
winds move across the surface of the water, causing friction drag, creating ripples and waves. Leading to a circular orbital motion of water particles in the ocean
what leads to a more horizontal movement of waves?
as the seabed becomes shallower towards the coastline, the orbit of the water particles becomes more elliptical
what happens when waves move more horizontally?
the wave height increases, but the wavelength and wave velocity both decrease
what does wave height increasing, but wavelength and velocity increasing cause?
water to back up from behind the wave until the wave breaks and surges up the beach
what is the swash?
when the wave moves up the beach
what is the backwash?
when the wave moves down the beach into the sea
what are the 3 factors affecting wave energy?
- strength of the wind
- duration of the wind
- size of the fetch
strength of wind as a factor affecting wave energy
the larger the difference between two areas the stronger the winds
duration of the wind as a factor affecting wave energy
if the wave is active for longer periods of time, then the energy of the waves will build up and increase
size of fetch as factors affecting wave energy
the larger the fetch, the more powerful the waves will be
how are constructed waves formed?
formed by weather systems that operate in the open ocean
how are destructive waves formed?
localised storm events with stronger winds operating closer to the coast
what is the wavelength of constructive waves?
long wavelength
what is the wavelength of destructive waves?
short wavelength
what is the frequency of constructive waves?
6-9 per minute
what is the frequency of destructive waves?
11-16 per minute
what are the wave characteristics of constructive waves?
low waves, which surge up the beach
what are the wave characteristics of destructive waves?
high waves, which plunge onto the beach
what are the swash characteristics of constructive waves?
strong swash, weak backwash
what are the swash characteristics of destructive waves?
weak swash, strong backwash
what effect do constructive waves have on the beach?
occurs on gently sloped beaches
what effect do destructive waves have on the beach?
occurs on steeply sloped beaches
what time of year are constructive waves dominate?
summer
what time of year are destructive waves dominant?
winter
how can constructive waves become destructive?
if a storm begins
what does the presence of constructive waves cause?
deposition on the beach
what does deposition on the beach from constructive waves lead to?
the beach profile becoming steeper
how can destructive waves become constructive?
destructive waves erode the beach, reducing the beach profile and leading to the formation of constructive waves
what is gravity as a source of energy in coastal environments responsible for?
tides which occur when the gravitational pull of the sun or moon changes the water levels of the seas and oceans
what is the tidal range?
the difference in height between the tides
where do tidal ranges tend to be the highest?
in channels
when do the highest high tides and the lower low tides occur?
when the sun and the moon are in alignment
what are rip currents?
powerful underwater currents occurring in areas close to the shoreline on some beaches when plunging waves cause a buildup of water at the top of the beach
what forms an underwater current in rip currents?
the backwashed is forced under the surface due to resistance from breaking waves
when do rip currents occur?
when the sea tide pulls water through a small area
where do high energy coastlines occur?
in areas where there is a large fetch
what are the results of high energy coastlines?
these coastlines are often eroding as the rate of erosion exceeds the rate of deposition
where do low energy coastlines occur?
in sheltered areas where constructive waves prevail
what is wave refraction?
the process bu which waves turn and lose energy around a headland on uneven coastlines.
what is erosion?
a collaborative process which involves the removal of sediment from a coastline by different types of erosion
what are the 6 main processes of erosion?
- corrasion
- abrasion
- attrition
- hydraulic action
- corrosion
- wave quarrying
what is corrasion?
sand and pebbles are picked up by the sea from an offshore sediment sink or temporal store and hurled against the cliffs at high tide, causing cliffs to be eroded
what is abrasion?
the process where sediment is moved along the shoreline, causing it to be warn down overtime
what is attrition?
wave action cause rocks and pebbles to hit against each other, wearing each other down and becoming round and eventually smaller
what is hydraulic action?
as a wave crashes onto a rock or cliff face, air is forced into cracks, joints and faults. high pressure causes cracks to force apart and widen, these may implode under high pressure causing erosion
what is corrosion?
the mildly acidic seawater can cause alkaline rock to be eroded
what is wave quarrying?
when breaking waves that hit the cliff face exert a pressure up to 30 tonnes per m^2.
what are the 6 factors affecting coastal erosion?
- waves
- beaches
- subaerial processes
- rock type
- rock faults
- rock lithology
how do beaches affect erosion?
if there is a beach in-front of a cliff then this will absorb wave energy and thus reduce the effects of erosion
how do subaerial processes affects erosion?
weathering and mass movement weaken cliffs
how does rock type affect erosion?
sedimentary rocks are made up of cemented sediment particles and are therefore vulnerable to erosion, where as rocks with interlocking crystals are resistant to erosion
how do rock faults affect erosion?
fissures, cracks and joints are all types of weaknesses within the rock, so the more there are, the quicker erosion of rock will occur, also increase rock face surface area, promoting erosion
how does rock lithology affect erosion?
the type and condition of rocks creation directly affects its vulnerability to erosion
what is coastal transportation responsible for?
transferring sediment within a sediment cell and between other sediment cells
what are the four main processes of transportation?
- traction
- saltation
- suspension
- solution
what is traction?
large, heavy sediment rolls along the sea bed pushed by currents
what is saltation?
smaller sediment bounces along the sea bed, being pushed by currents
what is suspension?
small sediment is carried within the flow of water
what is solution?
dissolved material is carried within the water, potentially in a chemical form
how does longshore drift use transportation to move sediment along the beach?
- waves hit the beach at direction of prevailing wind
- waves push sediment up the beach in swash
- gravity carries sediment down the beach in backwash
when does deposition occur?
when sediment becomes too heavy for the water to carry, or if the wave loses energy
what is gravity settling?
the waters velocity decreases so sediment begins to be deposited
what is flocculation?
clay particles clump together due to chemical attraction and then sink due to their high density
what is weathering?
the breakdown of rocks over time, leading to the transfer of material into the littoral zone, where it becomes an input to sediment cells
positive feedback effect on weathering?
if rate of removal of weathered rock from base of cliff is higher than the rate of weathering, then it will increase the area of exposed rock
negative feedback effect on weathering?
if removal of sediment rock from base of cliff is slower than the rate of weathering, it will lead to build up of debris at the base of the cliff, reducing the exposed cliff area and reducing rates of weathering
what is mechanical weathering?
the breakdown of rocks due to exertion of physical forces without any chemical changes taking place
what are the 3 types of mechanical weathering?
- freeze thaw
- salt crystallisation
- wetting and drying
what is chemical weathering?
the breakdown of rocks through chemical reactions
what are the 3 types of chemical weathering?
- carbonation
- oxidation
- solution
what is freeze thaw weathering?
water enters cracks in rocks and then the water freezes overnight in winter, this expands by 10%in volume, creating pressure and cracks. the makes the cliff weaker and vulnerable to erosion
what is salt crystallisation?
as seawater evaporates, salt is left behind and salt crystals grow, erecting pressure on the rock, widening cracks. salt can corrode ferrous rock due to chemical reactions
what is wetting and drying?
rocks expand when wet and the contract when drying. this frequent cycle can cause rocks and cliffs to break up.