Coastal Systems and Landscapes Flashcards
Components of a system
1) Inputs
2) Outputs
3) Flow/Transfers
4) Stores/Components.
Negative Feedback
When a change in the system causes other changes that have the opposite effect.
Positive Feedback
When a change in the system causes other changes that have a similar effect.
Wind
Created by air moving from areas of high pressure to areas of low pressure.
What changes the effect of a wave?
The wave height - it is affected by the wind speed and the fetch of the wave.
Waves
Created by the wind blowing over the surface of the sea. The friction between the wind and the surface of the sea gives the water a circular motion.
The fetch of a wave
The maximum distance of sea the wind has blown over in creating the waves.
Constructive Waves
Low frequency (6-8 per minute)
They’re low and long, which gives them a more elliptical cross profile.
The powerful swash carries material up the beach and deposits it.
Destructive Waves
High and steep with a more circular cross profile.
They have a higher frequency (10-14 waves per minute).
The strong backwash removes material from the beach.
Tides
The periodic rise and fall of the ocean surface, caused by the gravitational pull of the moon and the sun.
Currents
The general flow of water in one direction - it can be caused by wind or by variations in water temperature and salinity.
High energy Coasts
receive high inputs of energy in the form of large, powerful waves.
These can be caused by strong winds, long fetches and steeply shelving offshore zones.
The rate of erosion is often higher than the rate of deposition.
Low energy coasts
receive low inputs of energy in the form of small, gentle waves.
These can be caused by gentle winds, short fetches and gently sloping offshore zones.
The rate of deposition is often higher than the rate of erosion.
Sediment Budget
The difference between the amount of sediment that enters the system and the amount that leaves
Sediment/ Littoral Cells
Lengths of the coastline that are pretty much self-contained for the movement of sediment.
Corrasion (abrasion)
Bits of rock and sediment transported by the waves smash and grind against rocks and cliffs, breaking bits off and smoothing surfaces.
Hydraulic Action
air in cracks in cliffs is compressed when waves crash in. The pressure exerted by the compressed air breaks off rock pieces.
Cavitation
As waves recede, the compressed air expands violently, again exerting pressure on the rock and causing pieces to break off.
Wave Quarrying
The energy of a wave as it breaks against a cliff is enough to detach bits of rock.
Solution (corrosion)
Soluble rocks get gradually dissolved by the seawater
Attrition
Bits of rock in the water smash against each other and break into smaller bits.
Suspension
Very fine material, such as silt and clay particles, is whipped up by turbulence and carried along in the water. Most eroded material is transported this way.
Saltation
larger particles, such as pebbles or gravel, are too heavy to be carried in suspension. Instead, the force of water causes them to bounce along the sea bed.
Traction
Very large particles, e.g. boulders, are pushed along the sea bed by the force of the water.