Coastal Processes

Question 1

Attrition

Answer 1

A process of erosion. The pebbles are reduced in size as they hit off of one another. Smaller pebbles are easier to transport away

Question 2

Corrasion

Answer 2

A process of erosion caused by waves throwing pebbles against the cliff face; this can also be called abrasion

Question 3

Corrosion

Answer 3

A process of erosion by which some rocks dissolve by chemical action

Question 4

Hydraulic Action

Answer 4

Hydraulic action is erosion that occurs when the motion of water against a rock surface produces mechanical weathering.

Question 5

Destructive Wave

Answer 5

A high wave, with strong backwash, which breaks frequently causing erosion

Question 6

Constructive Wave

Answer 6

A low wave, with a strong swash, which breaks gently encouraging deposition of beach materials

Question 7

Backwash

Answer 7

The motion of receding waves.

Question 8

Beach Morphology

Answer 8

Interaction and adjustment of the seafloor topography

Question 9

Climate Change

Answer 9

A change in global or regional climate patterns

Question 10

Eustatic Change

Answer 10

When the sea level changes due to an alteration in the volume of water in the oceans or, alternatively, a change in the shape of an ocean basin and hence a change in the amount of water the sea can hold. Eustatic change is always a global effect.

Question 11

Isostatic Change

Answer 11

Isostatic sea level change is the result of an increase or decrease in the height of the land. When the height of the land increases, the sea level falls and when the height of the land decreases the sea level rises. Isostatic change is a local sea level change

Question 12

Saltation

Answer 12

Small pebbles and stones are bounced along the sea floor/river bed

Question 13

Salt Crystalisation

Answer 13

This is when salt crystals are deposited in cracks and over time the salt accumulates and applies pressure to the crack (similar to freeze-thaw weathering)

Question 14

Suspension

Answer 14

Fine light material is carried along in the water

Question 15

Traction

Answer 15

Large boulders and rocks are rolled along the river bed.

Question 16

Weathering

Answer 16

Weathering is the breaking down or dissolving of rocks and minerals on Earths surface

Question 17

Swash

Answer 17

When a wave breaks, water is washed up the beach - this is called the swash

Question 18

Backwash

Answer 18

When a wave breaks, water is washed up the beach - this is called the swash. Then the water runs back down the beach - this is called the backwash.

Question 19

Thermal Expansion

Answer 19

When water heats up, it expands.

Question 20

Talus (Scree)

Answer 20

Scree is a collection of broken rock fragments at the base of crags, mountain cliffs, volcanoes or valley shoulders that has accumulated through periodic rockfall from adjacent cliff faces. Landforms associated with these materials are often called talus deposits.

Question 21

Fetch

Answer 21

The length of water over which a given wind has blown

Question 22

Longshore Drift

Answer 22

The movement of material along a coast by waves which approach at an angle to the shore but recede directly away from it.

Question 23

Milankovitch Cycle

Answer 23

A Milankovitch cycle is a cyclical movement related to the Earth’s orbit around the Sun