coastal landscapes key notes Flashcards

1
Q

what is the littoral zone

A

the wider coastal zone including adjacent land areas and shallow parts of the sea
exposed to air at full tide and underwater at high tide

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2
Q

what are the 4 litoral zones

A

backshore
- usually above the influence of waves

forshore
- inter tidal or surf zone

nearshore
- breaker zone

offshore
-beyond influence of waves

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3
Q

what are the inputs into coastal systems

A
  • marine (waves)
    -atmospheric ( weather)
  • land (rock)
  • people
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4
Q

what are the main processes in coastal landscapes

A
  • weathering
  • mass movement
  • erosion
  • transport
  • deposition
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5
Q

what are the main outputs in coastal landscapes

A
  • erosional landforms
  • depositional landforms
  • different types of coast
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6
Q

what are coasts classified based on

A
  • geology- rocky, sandy, discordant, concordant
  • energy- high or low
    -balance- between erosion and deposition
  • sea level- emergent or submergent
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7
Q

what are the features of a high energy coastline

A
  • powerful waves
  • rate of erosion is higher that deposition
  • eg cornwall and north west scotland
  • headlands, cliffs, shoreline platforms
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8
Q

what are the features of low energy coastlines

A
  • less powerful waves
  • deposition higher than erosion
  • eg lincolnshire and northumberland
  • spits , beaches and coastal plains
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9
Q

what are concordant coasts

A

where type of rock runs parallel to the coast
- eg south dorset

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10
Q

what are discordant coasts

A
  • type of rock runs perpendicular to the coast
  • eg East dorset
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11
Q

what are the features of a submergent coast

A
  • have been flooded due to rise in sea levels
  • eustatic seal level change
  • dalmatian coasts
  • haff coasts - long spits
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12
Q

what are the features of emergent coasts

A
  • formed when water level has fallen or land has risen
  • isostatic change
  • rocky coastline with cliffs and platforms
  • west coast of usa
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13
Q

what is coastal recession

A

coastal erosion

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14
Q

what are joints

A

fractures caused by contraction from sediment drying out or earth moving

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15
Q

what are strata

A

layers of rock

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16
Q

what is the dip of a rock

A

the angle at which the rock layers lie

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17
Q

what is lithology

A

physical characteristics of rocks

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18
Q

what is morphology

A

shape and form of coastal landscapes

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19
Q

what are bedding planes

A

natural breaks in strata

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20
Q

what are folds

A

formed by pressure during tectonic activity makes rock crumble

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21
Q

what are faults

A

when stress or pressure causes faults to slip or move

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22
Q

what are sedimentery, metamorphic and igneous rocks and how are they made

A

SEDIMENTARY
- created by build up of sediment over millions of years on bottom of ocean
- compacted by own weight
- sandstone and limestone

METAMORPHIC
- created from sedimentary and igneous that are subjected to extreme heat and pressure
- usually through subduction
- slate and marble

IGNEOUS
- volcanic activity it is formed from cooled magma
- granite and basalt

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23
Q

what is the geology of the uk

A
  • SE is generally made from softer rock like clay and chalk
  • SW is harder rock like basalt
  • SW- cornwall faces bad weather but withstands erosion as made from igneous basalt, old sedimentary and slates which are all resistant
  • SE made from younger weaker geology
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24
Q

what is the MOhs hardness scale

A
  • relative hardness of rock is measured using scale that looks at what other materials could scratch it
  • eg diamond at top and calcite near bottom
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25
Q

what are the four types of dip and what are characterisatics of each

A

HORIZONTAL DIP
- vertical profile with notches reflecting strata make it more easily eroded
- weaker strata at bottom cause top to topple eventually

SEAWARD DIP HIGH ANGLE
- sloping low angle profule with one rock layer facing sea
- vulnerable rock slides down slope

SEAWARD DIP LOW ANGLE
-profile may exceed 90 degrees producing areas of overhanding rock very vulnerable to rock falls

LANDWARD DIP
-steep profiles of 70-80 degrees
- produces a stable cliff with reduced rock falls

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26
Q

what are the erosion rates of igneous, sedimentary and metamorphic rock

A

igneous- very slow
- interlocking crystals make strong and hard
- few joints so limited points of weakness

metamorphic- slow
- crystalline are resistant to erosion
- foliation- where crystals all in one direction so weaker

sedimentary- moderate to fast
- age of sedimentary plays key role
- fractured rock more vulnerable

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27
Q

what rock type is cornwall made from

A

made from mainly basalt- igneous resistant rock

28
Q

what rock type is the holderness coast made from

A

boulder clay and challk- super fast eroding

29
Q

what is vegetations role in stopping erosion

A
  • roots bind sediment
  • plants in sediment cells provide protective layer from water
  • protect sediment from wind
30
Q

what are halophytes and xerophytes

A

H- can tolerate salt water
X- can tolerate dry conditions

31
Q

what is plant succession

A

how a group of plants change over time

32
Q

what is the pioneer species and what is climax vegetation

A

pioneer- first to grow
climax veg- new ecosystem are in equilibrium with the environment and np new species

33
Q

what is the halosphere

A

plant growth in salty water

34
Q

what is psammosere

A
  • plant growth on sand
35
Q

what are the different dunes in order and what are some features of each

A

EMBRUYO AND FORE DUNES
- sea weed
- sand building up
alkaline sand
- scattered plants that thrive being burried in sand

YELLOW DUNES
- continually blown away and replenished
- reduced wind speed
- top of dunes above high tide level
- salt tolerant plants that thrive being burried and deep roots

GREY DUNES
- incr humus content
- sand no longer accumulating
- many plants now coexisting

DUNE SLACK
- damp low lying hollows
- high water table in winter
- soil acidic
- moisture loving plants

WOODLAND
- acidic soil and incr organic matter
- nutrient rich
- shelter developed

36
Q

what does wave size depend on

A
  • strength of wind
  • duration the wind blows for
  • water depth
  • wave fetch
37
Q

what are constructive and destructive waves

A

c
- less than 1 m wave height
- wave length is low
- strong swash weak backwash
- creates wide flat coast plain

D
- more than 1m wave height
- frequency is high
- weak swash and strong backwash
- creates thin steep beaches

38
Q

what are the erosional processes and how does each one cause erosion

A

HYDRAULIC ACTION- force of waves pushes air into cracks of rock
ABRASION - loose pebbles and sediment in water thrown against rock
ATTRITION- pebbles crash into each other
CORROSION- salt creates weak acid that slowly breaks down rock

39
Q

what are the types of transportation and how do they work

A

TRACTION - sediment rolls along bottom
SALTATION - sediment bounces along
SUSPENSION - sediment carried in the water column
SOLUTION - dissolved material carried as a solution

40
Q

what is longshore drift

A
  • waves approach beach as an angle
  • as wave moves, material is carried up beach at an angle
  • backwash pulls material down beach at right angle to short
41
Q

what are spits

A
  • long narrow feature that extends from land to sea
  • made from sand or shingle
  • sand is moved along the coast by longshore drift
    -when coast suddenly changes direction then sediment will begin to build up
  • eg farewell spit in new zealand
42
Q

what are beaches and how are they made (what are the two types)

A
  • commonly found in bays
  • wave refraction creates low energy environment
  • leads to deposition

DRIFT ALIGHNED BEACH - where waves break at an angle to coast and swash is at angle but backwash is perpendicular
SWASH ALIGHNED BEACH- swash and backwash move material up and down the beach
- beaches are curved

43
Q

what are offshore bars

A
  • submerged ridges of sand
  • created by waves offshore
  • destructive removes sediment and deposit offshore as bars
44
Q

what are tombolos

A
  • a beach or ridge of sand that has formed between islands and mainland
  • deposition occurs where waves lose energy
45
Q

what are bars

A
  • where beach or spit extends across a bay
  • joins two headlands up
  • eg start bay in devon- 9km bar
  • can trap water behind and form a lagoon
46
Q

what are sediment cells

A
  • sediment moves in sediment cells
  • within each cell. moves between beach, cliffs and sea through processes
  • any action that takes place in one part affects other parts
  • cell operates between physical barriers
  • have sources , transfers and sinks
47
Q

what is sediment budget

A

sediment available in cell

48
Q

what are subaerial processes

A

land based processes that alter shape of coast

49
Q

what are the three types of mechanical weathering and how do they work

A

FREEZE THAW- this occurs when water freezes in cold weather. expands and causes cracks to widen
SALT WEATHERING- salt water evapourates and leaves salt crystals which grow and stresses rock.
WETTING AND DRYING- frequent cycles and expand and contract rock, causing them to crack

50
Q

what are the 3 types of chemical weathering

A

CARBONATION - affects limestone due to rainfall
HYDROLYSIS- igneous and metamorphic rocks with water
OXIDATION- sandstone and addition of oxygen

51
Q

what are the 3 types of biological weathering

A

PLANT ROOTS - grow into small cracks and break apart
ROCK BORING - clams bore into rock face and seccrete chemicals
ANIMALS - digg burrows into cliffs and cause to break

52
Q

what are the different types of mass movement and how do they happen

A

FALL- where blocks of rock can be dislodged by hydraulic action
TOPPLE- rock strata have steep seaward dip leads to instability and topples seaward
TRANSLATIONAL SLIDE- low angle sea dip material tends to slide down slope towards the sea
ROTATIONAL SLIDE- movement can occur along curved surface and material slowly rotates downslope
FLOW- common in weak rock and flow downslope when saturated heavy rainfall

53
Q

what is glacial maximum

A

means point where ice reached during ice age

54
Q

what are two emergent coastal features and what do they consist of

A

RAISED BEACHES- areas of former wave cut platforms and their beaches are at higher level than the sea level
RELICT CLIFF- an old or previous cliff displaying features such as calves arches and stacks

55
Q

what are three submergent coastal features and what do they consist of

A

RIAS- drowned river valley, flood river valleys leaving only high land visible
FJORDS- drowned glacial valleys where u shaped valleys left are submerged
DALMATION COASTS- where valleys are flooded and tops of valleys remain above surface, appear to be series of islands

56
Q

what are storm surges

A

changes in sea level caused by intense low pressure systems and high wind speed

57
Q

what challenges does climate change cause in coastal areas

A
  • incr temp causing rising sea levels and more flood risk
  • incr incidence of storms and flooding
  • IPCC- major scientific body responsible for predicting and researching changes in climate say that :
  • very likely that sea level will rise in more than 95% of areas
  • very likely that global mean sea rise will continue for centuries
  • hurricanes more intense
  • windspeed will be 2-11% stronger
  • rainfall will increase by 20%
58
Q

what are some soft engeneering techniques and what are positives and negatives

A

BEACH NOURISHMENT- sand pumped to replace loss
- natural looking
- expensive and needs redoing
eg hornsea

SAND DUNE REGENERATION- action to build up sand dunes
- natural looking
- expensive and needs redoing

BEACH REPROFILING- movement of sediment from one area to another
- natural looking
- takes away from other areas causing more erosion here

ZONE MANAGEMENT- withdrawal of planning permission
- cost effective
- unpopular with residents involved

59
Q

what is soft engineering

A

works with natural processes to manage erosion and looks nicer and positive public opinion

60
Q

what is hard engineering

A

building structures that prevent erosion along the coast
tend to be more expensive

61
Q

what are some hard engineering techniques and what are the positives and negatives

A

SEA WALLS - protect from sea erosion made from rocks or concrete
- works well
- costly and looks bad
eg hornsea

GABIONS- wire cages holding smaller rocks
- cheaper
-small scale solution
eg skipsea

GROYNES- rock or wooden structures that hold beach material
- repaired easily
- regular maintenance
- affect other areas
eg withernsea

62
Q

what does tangible and intangible mean in terms of coastal management

A

T- where costs and benefits are known and can assign monetary value
I- costs may be difficult to assess

63
Q

what are 4 coastal management strategies

A
  • hold the line - maintaining current position
  • advance the line- pushing coastline back out to sea
  • managed retreat- allowing coast to retreat but in a managed way
  • do nothing - letting nature take its course
64
Q

what are some examples of how sustainable coastal management could be achieved

A
  • monitoring coastal change
    -educating communities
  • understanding why change is needed
  • adapting to rising sea level
  • creating alternative livlihoods
  • managing flood and erosion risk
65
Q

who is in charge of coastal management in the uk

66
Q

what is cost benefit analysis

A
  • tool used to help decide whether defening a coastline from erosion is worth it
  • often controversial
  • human and environmental costs are hard to quantify
67
Q

who are some players in coastal management

A
  • residents
  • local council
  • businesses owners
  • local tax payers
  • environmentalists