Coastal Landscapes and Change EQ1 Flashcards
what are the sections of the littoral zone?
backshore, foreshore, nearshore, offshore
what is the coast as a system driven by?
wave energy
what are the categories of inputs into the coast as a system?
- Marine
- Atmospheric
- Land
- People
what are the marine inputs into the coastal system?
waves, tides, storm surges
what are the atmospheric inputs into the coastal system?
weather/climate, climate change, solar energy
what are the land inputs into the coastal system?
rock type and structure, tectonic activity
what are the people inputs into the coastal system?
human activity, coastal management
what are the processes of the coastal system?
- Weathering
- Mass Movement
- Erosion
- Transport
- Deposition
what are the outputs of the coastal system?
- Erosional landforms
- Depositional landforms
- Different types of coasts
what kind of zone is the littoral zone?
‘dynamic zone of rapid change’
define offshore
The area of deeper water beyond the point at which waves begin to break.
what does friction do to wave shape in the offshore zone?
Friction between the waves and the sea bed may cause some distortion of the wave shape.
define nearshore
The area of shallow water beyond the low tide mark
what does friction do to wave shape in the nearshore zone?
friction between the seabed and waves distorts the wave sufficiently to cause it to break. (breaker zone)
what kind of bar may there be between the offshore and nearshore zones?
breakpoint bar
define foreshore
The area between the high tide and the low tide mark.
what does the littoral zone vary because of ?
short term factors & long term factors
define backshore
The area above the high tide mark, affected by wave action only during major storm events.
what short term factors may cause the littoral zone to vary?
individual waves, daily tides and seasonal storms
what long term factors may cause the littoral zone to vary?
changes to sea level or climate change
what are the three types of coastal landscapes (coastlines) the littoral zone forms?
rocky, sandy and estuarine
describe the relief of rocky, cliffed coastlines
- areas of high relief - varying from a few meters to hundreds of meters in height
describe the relief of sandy coastlines
areas of low relief - with sand dunes and beaches that are mush flatter
describe the relief of estuarine coastlines
areas of low relief - with salt marshes and mudflats (estuaries)
what areas do rocky coastlines typically form in?
- areas with resistant geology, - in a high energy environment,
- where erosion is greater than deposition and big,
- stormy & destructive waves
what areas do sandy coastlines typically form in?
- areas with less resistant geology,
- a low energy environment,
- where deposition is greater than erosion,
- usually in areas of less resistant rock
what areas do estuarine coastlines typically form in?
- in river mouths,
- where deposition is greater than erosion,
- in a low energy environment,
- usually in areas of less resistant rock
what areas of the littoral zone are areas where the greatest human activity occur?
backshore and foreshore
why is the littoral zone constantly changing?
because of the dynamic interaction between the processes operating in the seas, oceans and on land
what long term criteria can be used of classify coasts?
- geology,
- sea level change
what is meant by geology?
all the characteristics of land, including lithology and structure
how can geology be used to classify coasts?
- as rocky, sandy or estuarine
- or as concordant and discordant
how can sea level change be used to classify coasts?
as emergent or submergent
what may sea level change be caused by?
tectonic processes or climate change
how can energy inputs be used to classify coasts?
as high or low energy coasts
how can sediment inputs be used to classify coasts?
creating either erosional or depositional coasts
how do tectonic processes cause sea level change?
can lift land up, causing local sea fall, or lead sections of land to subside - causing local sea rise