Coastal Landscapes Flashcards
What is Abrasion?
Rocks carried along a wave wear down coastline
What is attrition?
rocks carried by river smash together and break into smaller,smoother and rounded particles
What is hydraulic action?
where pockets of air in cracks pressure causes crack to widen breaking off rock
what is saltation?
hopping movement of pebbles along a sea bed
what is solution?
the dissolving of rocks such as chalk
what is suspension?
small particles carried in sea water
what is traction?
heavy particles rolled along sea bed
what is beach nourishment
adding new material to beach artificially through dining large amounts of sand
what is coastal realignment
establishment of new coastland as a managed,retreat allows flooding over low lying land eg protect settlements
what is concordant coastline?
straight coastline with a single rock running parallel
what is a constructive wave?
powerful wave with strong awash surging up beach
what is destructive waves?
waves formed by local storm that crashes onto a beach with a powerful backwash
What is a discordant coastline?
an indented coastline made up of headlands and bays
what is biological weathering?
caused by flora and fauna when plant roots grow into cracks or animals burrow into rocks
What is chemical weathering?
the decomposition of rocks caused by chemical change
freeze thaw weathering?
repeated cycles of freezing and thawing that makes cracks in rock bigger
What is longshore drift?
transport of sediment along a stretch of coastline caused by waves approaching beach at an angle
What is marram grass?
type of grass adapted to windy conditions and is used in coastal management
what is adaptation?
actions to adjust to natural events reduce damage and limit impact to cope with consequences
what is erosion?
wearing away and removal of material by a moving force
what is weathering?
deterioration of rocks,soils and minerals through contact with water,gases and biological organisms
what is the fetch?
distance of open water over which the wind can blow
what is mass movement?
downhill movement of weathered material under gravity
what is deposition?
when material transported is dropped due to sea losing energy
what is transportation
movement of eroded material
what is the trough?
base of a wave
what is wave height?
vertical distance from trough to crest
what is wave frequency?
number of waves breaking per minute
what is wave length?
horizontal distance between two crests
what is the crest?
top of the wave
How are waves formed?
- waves start and have circular orbit
- as waves approach shore friction slows wave
- causes the orbit to become elliptical until top of wave breaks over
4.water swashes up beach - water from previous wave returns to sea as backwash
- Sea bed is rough and acts as a source of friction
what are features of constructive waves?
weak backwash
build up the beach
long wave length low-frequency 8-10
strong swash
have little energy
what are features of destructive waves?
short wave length high frequency 10-14
removal of sands and pebbles from beach
weak swash as little material is left behind on beach
lots of energy
drag material away from beach
strong backwash as they have energy left
what is rotational slip
saturated soil and weak rock slump curved surfaces
what is rockfall?
fragments of rock break away from cliff often due to freeze thaw weatherinf
what is mudflow
saturated soil and weak rock flows down a slope
what is landslides
blocks of rock slide downhill after being detached
what is a headland?
cliff that juts out into sea and surrounded by water in three sides composed of hard rock such as granite
what is a bay?
crescent shaped indentation in coastline found between two headlands.It usually has a beach and comprised of soft rock such as sand and clay.
What is the process at discordant coastlines?
- headlands and bays at discordant coastlines where waves (hydraulic and abrasion) cause cliff to retreat
- tougher more resistant rock such as granite erodes slowly so they stick out.
- walker rock such as clay erode easily to form bays which are sheltered so deposition happens and beaches form.
what is a wave cut platform?
an area of bedrock visible at base of cliffs.slops to the sea at a gentle angle and is only visible at low tide.
features of high tide wave cut platform
water covers lots of rock
features of a low tide wave cut platform
exposed rock
bare rock abrasion and attrition
gentle sloping coastline
formation of a wave cut platform
- Sea attacks base of cliff
- Wave cut notch formed by abrasion and hydraulic action
3.As notch increases cliff becomes unstable retreating cliff face - Backwash carries away eroded material forming a wave cut plat
- Process continues causing cliff to retreat
What is a headland?
A section of land jutting out to the sea
Made of hard rocks that have lines of weakness
Formation of sea stumps
- Lines of weakness(cracks) widened through erosion
- As waves grind against crack it begins to form a cave
- The cave becomes larger and breaks through headland to form an arch
4.Base of arch continues getting eroded till roof is to heavy so it collapses forming a stack - Stack is undercut until it forms a stump
What can also contribute to forming of sea stumps?
Weathering
Effects of longshore drift
- Narrow beach as sand moves along
- Higher risk of erosion waves have more energy due to less sand
- Wider beach as sediment transported to other side
- Other side has lower risk of erosion
What is a spit?
a narrow beach of sand attached to land at one end. Extend across a bay or estuary where coastlines change directions and they are formed by longshore drift
What is a lagoon?
Shallow water protected from a larger body of water by sandbars or coral reefs
What is a salt marsh?
Coastal wetlands which are flooded and drained by tides. They are marshy because of deep mud
How are spits formed ?
- Sediment carried by longshore drift
- Where change in shape of coastline deposition occurs
- A hook end can form if they is a change in wind direction
- Waves can’t get past a spit so silts deposited to form salt marshes
What is a beach bar?
A spit that has grown across a bay
What are features of a sandy beach:
Flat gradient
Constructive waves
Does not stretch far inland
Sand dunes
Ridges and runnels can form on this beach
What are features of a pebble beach?
Steep Gradient
Destructive waves
stretch far inland
storm beach with large pebbles
pebbles can increase in size at back of beach
What is a leeward slope?
The slope that faces away from the wind
What is the water table?
Upper horizontal limit of wet sand
What is the dune slack?
Where there is a trough or low point in line of dunes
What is an embryo dune?
A newly formed sand dune closest to the sea
What is the windward slope?
Slope that faces the wind
What is the sand dune order(beginning to end)
Embryo dune>Fore dune>Yellow dune>Grey dune>Dune slack>Mature dune
What are features of beach profile (beginning to end)
Ridge>Runnel>Ripples>Beach cups>Berm>Storm
What is the ridge?
A wave swept or wave deposited ridge running parallel to a shoreline
What is a runnel?
Water filled trough during high tide
What are ripples?
Slight waves in the sea?
What is a berm?
terrace of beach that forms in the backshore
What is coastal management?
Strategies to stop or slow down erosion at a coastline from rising sea levels
What is rock armour?
massive boulders of hard rock big enough not to be moved by waves.Arrangement to sea deflects waves energy and water is released in between gaps so reduces waves energy
What are sea walls?
curved face throws wave back to sea slowing down the next wave so less erosion occurs
What are groynes?
Large wood that traps sediment transported by longshore drift and building up beach at that area
What are Gabions?
Steel wire mesh cages filled with rock.
When water enters it’s absorbed reducing wave energy.
What is sand dune protection?
Artificial sand dunes or restoration of others to create physical barrier between sea and land
Where is the Holderness coast and why does it erode?
North east coast of England
Made up of soft boulder and clay
Groynes at holderness:
Location:Hornsea
Cost:5.2 million
Downfall: Caused erosion at Mappleton as sand is no longer carried by longshore drift
Beach Nourishment at holderness:
Location:Mappleton
Cost:2.1 million
Downfall: Protection began to fail and cliffs slumped causing erosion to increase
Sea walk at Holderness:
Location: Hornsea
Cost: 6.4 million
Downfall: Caused erosion at Mappleton as powerful waves moves along the coast
Rock armour at Holderness:
Location: Withernsea
Cost:6.4 Million
Downfall: Reduced access to beach and increased wave noise