coastal landforms and landscapes (marine erosion) Flashcards
Fetch
Uninterrupted distance across water over which wind blows. Distance over which waves able to grow in size
What are waves caused by?
Friction between wind and water; directly influence the three Marine processes of erosion, trasport and deposition
What determines wave size and strength?
Strength of wind (fetch) length of time wind blows for, water depth and wage fetch
2 types of wave
Constructive and destructive
Features of constructive waves
Low in height and long in length
Spilling waves
Strong stash and weak backwash
Deposit it’s sediment on beach
Features of destructive waves
High and short in wavelength
Plunging waves
Weak smash and strong backwash
Erodes beach
Beach morphology
Strongly conditioned but nature of prevailing waves. Wave conditions fluctuate over time and bring with them changes to beach morphology
Swash
Flow of seawater up beach as wave breaks
Backwash
Return flow of seawater back down beach to meet the next incoming wave
4 diagnostic beach features of prevailing wind conditions
Storm beach, berms, cusps, offshore bars
Features of a storm beach
Caused by constructive waves during stormy weather
Features of berms
Small ridges created by constructive waves during relatively calm weather
Features of cusps
Product of gentle destructive waves eroding berms
Features of offshore bars
Formed by persistent destrictive waves