COASTAL HAZARDS 2 Flashcards

1
Q

marks the boundary between the sea and land

A

Shoreline-

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2
Q

zone affected by wave action

A

Shore-

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3
Q

this part of the shore is nearest to the sea. It is under water even at low tide.

A

Offshore-

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4
Q

between the low-tide breaker line and the low-tide shoreline

A

Nearshore-

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5
Q

this refers to the zone between high tide and low tide. It is under water during high tide. It is the surf zone.

A

*
Foreshore-

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6
Q

it is the part of the shore between the high tide and the highest water level, which can only be reached by exceptional storm waves. Its sea bedis strewn with shingle and pebbles.

A

Backshore-

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7
Q

are areas where tectonic forces deform and uplift the land. They are usually rugged and irregular, with beaches sometimes being restricted to coves and inlets. Ex. Pacific Coast of US, Eastern Coast of Philippines fronting the Philippine Trench

A

Active shorelines

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8
Q

*
are areas with little to no tectonic activity, commonly resulting in a relatively straight coastline with flat-lying terrain. Ex. U.S. Gulf and Atlantic Coasts

A

Passive shorelines

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9
Q

are the outer margins of the continents, where continental crust transitions to oceanic crust.

A

Continental Margins
*

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10
Q
  • are geologically inactive regions located some distance from plate boundaries.
  • relatively wide and are sites where large quantities of sediments are deposited.
  • comprises features such as the continental shelf, continental slope, and continental rise.
A

Passive Continental Margin

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11
Q
  • are located along convergent plate boundaries, where oceanic lithosphere is being subducted beneath the leading edge of a continent
A

Active Continental Margin

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12
Q

Characterized by a single high tide and single low tide each tidal day

A

Diurnal (diurnal=daily)

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13
Q

exhibits single two high tides and two low tides each tidal day

Common along the Atlantic coast of the United States

A

Semidiurnal (semi=twice)

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14
Q

there are usually two high and two low tides each day, with high tides of different heights and low tides of different heights
-
prevalent along the Pacific coast of the United States and in many other parts of the world

A

Mixed tidal pattern

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15
Q

Factors that determine size and energy of waves:
*

-
The faster the wind speed, the greater the wave energy.
*

-
The longer the wind blows, the larger the waves.
*

-
The greater the fetch, the more energy the waves have.

A

Wind energy
Duration of wind
Fetch

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16
Q

–water from a breaker washing upon a beach at whatever angle the breaker approached shore.
*

A

Swash

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17
Q

takes the shortest path, direct to the sea, not an oblique angle as taken by swash.

A

Backwash

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18
Q

-
Stronger swash and weaker backwash.
-
Occurs on gentle-sloping coasts.
-
Deposits materials on the beach more than it removes.
*

A

Constructive Waves

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19
Q

Occurs on steep-sloping coasts.
-
Removes (erodes) materials on the beach more than it deposits.

A

Destructive Waves

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20
Q

As the wave continues toward shore, this causes a progressive decrease in velocity along the length of the wave, forcing it to bend in a process called
*

A

wave refraction.

21
Q

is a wave whose amplitude reaches a critical level at which some process can suddenly start that causes large amounts of wave energy to be transformed into turbulent kinetic energy.
*

A

Breaking wave

22
Q

refers to the area where the waves break.
*

A

Surf zone

23
Q

is an ocean current that flows parallel to the shore and is caused by large swells (series of waves) sweeping into the shoreline at an angle and pushing down the length of the beach in one direction.
*

A

Longshore current

24
Q

is the process of transporting material along a coast by waves which approach at an angle to the shore but recede perpendicular from it.

A

Longshore drift or beach drift

25
Q

This interaction between waves and a landmass can cause the shoreline to slowly move landward, a process referred to as

A

shoreline retreat.

26
Q

Also known as a sandy isthmus

A

Tombolos

27
Q

*
Sites of mud and organic deposition
*
Quiet waters
*
Some are enclosed by barriers and spits
*
A combination of river processes and coastal processes

A

Lagoons, Mudflats, Marshes, and Mangrove Swamps

28
Q

are wet lands that form as rivers empty their water and sediment into another body of water,such as an ocean, lake, or another river.

A

Deltas

29
Q

Types of Deltas

A

There are two major ways of classifying deltas. One considers the influences/processesthat create the landform, while the other considers its shape.

30
Q

-the movement of waves controls a delta’s size and shape.

A

Wave-dominated delta

31
Q

-usually form in areas with a large tidal range, or area between high tide and low tide.

A

Tide-dominated delta

32
Q

-are formed as rivers deposit large, coarse sediments. Gilbert deltas are usually confined to rivers emptying into freshwater lakes.

A

Gilbert deltas

33
Q

-form as a river does not empty directly into the ocean, but instead forms a partly enclosed wetland that contains a brackish water habitat.

A
  1. Estuarine delta
34
Q

Deltas with this triangular or fan shape are called _______(arc-like) deltas.

A

arcuate

35
Q

Stronger waves form a ___________, which is more pointed than the arcuate delta, and is tooth-shaped.
*

A

cuspate delta

36
Q

A ___________has few, widely spaced distributaries, making it look like a bird’s foot.
*

A

bird-foot delta

37
Q

Another untraditional looking delta is the__________. The distributary network of an inverted delta is inland, while a single stream reaches the ocean or other body of water.
*

A

inverted delta

38
Q

_______________, which empty into a plain, are extremely rare.
*

A

Inland deltas

39
Q

An ______________ forms as a river develops a new channel, leaving the other to dry up or stagnate. This process is called avulsion.

A

abandoned delta

40
Q

-this type is directly attached to a shore, or borders it with an intervening shallow channel or lagoon

A

FRINGING REEF

41
Q

-a reef separated from a mainland or island shore by a deep channel or lagoon

A

BARRIER REEF

42
Q

-this more or less circular or continuous barrier reef extends all the way around a lagoon without a central island.

A

ATOLL REEF

43
Q

–observed where a more resistant portion of the rock remains in the surf, separated from the retreating cliff
*

A

Sea stacks

44
Q

Column of rock standing in the water off a beach
*

A

Chimney-

45
Q

where wave erosion has hollowed out a line of weakness in otherwise resistant promontory

A

Sea arch–

46
Q

are gently sloping platform of rocks that extend seaward in to a steep drop off.

A

Shore Platforms

47
Q

commonly leads to inland flooding far from where a storm makes landfall.

A

Intense precipitation

48
Q
  • a tool that measures the vulnerability of the physical coast by analyzing natural and anthropogenic factors driving beach processes
A

CIVAT
- Coastal Integrity and Vulnerability Assessment Tool