Coastal environments Flashcards

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1
Q

Define fetch.

A

Fetch is when the wind blows over the sea at a distance.

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2
Q

What causes waves to form?

A

.Waves are caused by winds, moving from high pressure to low pressure.

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3
Q

Name three things the waves are influenced by.

A

.The strength of the wind.
.How far the wind has travelled. (Larger fetch and wind means bigger wave)
.How long the wind has been blowing.

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4
Q

What is a swash?

A

.Its the movement of water going up the beach.

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5
Q

What is a backwash?

A

.The backward movement of water down the beach.

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6
Q

Name two types of waves.

A

Destructive waves
Constructive waves

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7
Q

Define destructive waves.

A

.When the backwash is stronger than a swash, as a result eroding the beach.

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8
Q

Define constructive waves.

A

.When the swash is stronger than a backwash, causing the beach to build up.

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9
Q

What type of beach a constructive wave forms?

A

.Sandy and depositional beach

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10
Q

What type of beach a destructive wave forms?

A

.A shingle and erosional beach

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11
Q

What’s the wavelength of a constructive wave?

A

. long with lower height.(less energy)

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12
Q

What’s the wavelength of a destructive wave?

A

. Short with high height ( more energy)

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13
Q

What’s the frequency of a constructive wave?

A

Low (6-8 per minute)

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14
Q

What’s the frequency of a destructive wave?

A

High (10-12 per minute)

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15
Q

Name four erosional processes

A

.Hydraulic action
.Attrition
.Corrosion/Solution
.Abrasion

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16
Q

Name four transportation processes.

A

.Traction
.Saltation
.Suspension
.Solution

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17
Q

What’s hydraulic action?

A

The sheer power of the waves as they smash into the cliffs. Trapped air is blasted into holes and cracks in the rock forcing it to break (cavitation).

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18
Q

What’s corrosion?

A

.Its where rocks are dissolved by seawater-especially limestone and chalk.

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19
Q

What’s attrition?

A

.When rocks carried by the sea crash into each other, which makes them smoother.

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20
Q

What’s abrasion?

A

..When rocks rub against each other causing a ‘sandpapering effect’, causing them to become smooth

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21
Q

What’s solution?

A

.It is the transport of dissolved chemicals and rocks.

22
Q

What’s suspension?

A

.It’s where lighter materials are often suspended or carried by the water.

23
Q

What’s saltation?

A

. It’s where particles that are too heavy to be carried by water or suspended are bounced along the seabed.

24
Q

What’s traction?

A

.It’s where larger rocks and pebbles are rolled along the seabed.

25
Q

Define mass movement.

A

.Its the downhill movement of cliff material under the influence of gravity.

26
Q

What are the types of mass movement?

A

.Landslides
.Mudflow
.Rockfall
.Slumping

27
Q

How does a rockfall occur?

A

A rockfall occurs when rock fragments break away from the cliff’s face, often due to freeze-thaw weathering.

28
Q

How does a landslide occur?

A

.When waves hit a cliff made of strong material, erosion happens the most at the cliff’s base. If continuous, this creates a small cut or gap called a wave-cut notch.

.As the notch gets bigger, the weight of the cliff above becomes too heavy/high, and a landslide may occur.

.The fallen material temporarily protects the cliff behind it but once the sea removes it, the process happens again and wave-cut platforms are formed.

29
Q

How does slumping occur?

A

.Cliffs made of boulder clay, which is a type of material left behind by glaciers, can erode quickly when they are near the coast. The Holderness coast in Europe is an example of a coastline with these types of cliffs and it erodes faster than any other coastline in Europe.

.One way of the cliff’s eroding is through the force of waves hitting the cliffs called hydraulic action.

.Another way is through abrasion, which involves the wearing away of the cliff’s surface.

.Rainfall also plays a role in erosion as lots rain causes the boulder clay to become very wet.When this happens the weight of the wet clay can cause the cliffs to slump or collapse.

30
Q

Define long-shore drift.

A

The transportation of sand/pebbles along a beach.

31
Q

Define deposition.

A

.Dropping off the materials

32
Q

Name erosional landforms.

A

.Bays
.Headlands
.Arches.
.Stacks
.Stumps
.Wave-cut platforms

33
Q

How are headlands and bays are formed?

A

.Headlands and bays are formed when soft rock of the cliff erodes quickly. This type of coast is called ‘discordant’ coast, where the rock is perpendicular to the coast.

34
Q

.Explain the importance of managing coastal areas.

A

.It’s important to manage coastal areas because to keep the people safe especially if the coastlines are steep. Another reason, is for tourist attraction and the construction of buildings.

35
Q

Define Hard-engineering.

A

.Involves the building of artificial structures such as sea walls aimed at controlling natural processes.

36
Q

Name types of sea defenses.

A

Groynes
Sea-wall
Rip-rap
Revetments
Offshore breakwater.

37
Q

What are Groynes?

A

Timber or rock structures that are built at right angles to the coast. They build up the beach by trapping sediment along the coast by longshore drift.

38
Q

Give a advantage of using Groynes.

A

.It works well with natural processes to build the beach and is not too expensive.

.It increases tourist opportunities and protects the land behind it.

39
Q

Give a disadvantage of using Groynes.

A

.The beach maybe starved of fresh sediment further along the beach and leading to erosion elsewhere. It is also unattractive to many tourists.

40
Q

What is a sea wall?

A

.Stone or a concrete walls at the foot of the cliff, or the top of a beach. They are usually curved to reflect waves back out to sea.

41
Q

Give an advantage of using sea walls.

A

.It is a very effective defense against erosion. They often have a promenade for people to walk along.

42
Q

Give a disadvantage of using sea wall.

A

.They are very unnatural looking and may need a high level of maintenance.

43
Q

Give an advantage of using a rip-rap.

A

.They are cheap and easy to construct and maintain. They can also be used for recreation such as fishing and sunbathing.

44
Q

Give a disadvantage of using a rip-rap.

A

.They can cause erosion further out to sea, and are usually unattractive. They are also expensive to build and maintain.

45
Q

What are revetments?

A

.They are sloped-wooden or concrete structures placed at the foot of a cliff, or at the top of a beach. They break up the waves energy.

46
Q

Give an advantage of using revetments

A

.They are relatively cheap to build.

47
Q

Give a disadvantage of using revetments.

A

.They are visually unappealing and a potential navigation hazard.

48
Q

What is an offshore breakwater?

A

.It’s a part,y submerged rock barrier, designed to break up the waves before they reach up the coast.

49
Q

Give an advantage of using an offshore breakwater

A

.It’s an effective barrier that does not obstruct the beach in any way.

50
Q

Give a disadvantage of using an offshore breakwater.

A

The rocks that are used are usually not local and can look out of place. They can also be dangerous if people click over them.