Coast Landscapes and Change Flashcards
How is a wave created
2B.4
created through friction between the wind surface, transferring energy from the wind into the water
what is a wave
2B.4A
transfer of energy from one water particle to its neighbour with individual water
what is wave height
2B.4A
vertical distance from the peak to trough
how is wave height determined
2B.4A
energy transfer from the wind and water depth
what is wave length
2B.4A
horizontal distance from crest to crest
what is wave frequency
2B.4A
number of waves passing a particular point over given period of time
waves in a open sea
2B.4A
- waves are simply energy moving through water
- water itself only moves up and down not horizontal
- there is some obital water particle motion within the wave but no net forward water particle motion
what does wave size depend on
2B.4A
wave fetch -
wave depth
strength of wind
duration of wind blows
how does a wave break
2B.4A
waves reaching shore reach a wave depth 1/2 their wavelength the internal orbital motion of water within the wave touches the sea bed
Wave particle is distorted due to friction between the sea bed, this slows down the wave
- wave depth decreases further, wave velocity slows wavelength shortens and wave height increases.
- wave crest begins to moe forwards much faster than the wave trough
- wave crest outruns the trough and wave topples forwards
wave breaks in the nearshore zone and water flows up the beach as swash
wave losses energy and gravity pulls the water back down the beach as backwash
Constructive Waves
2B.4A
low energy waves low flat wave height long wavelength low wave frequency (6-9 per minute) strong swash - pushes sediment up the beach but weaker backwash can't transport all particles back - backwash into beach material
Destructive Waves
2B.4A
high energy waves
large wave height
short wavelength
high wave frequency
strong backwash weak swash due to steep angle of impact = energy directed downwards and backwards
strong backwash erodes material from top of beach
what is beach morphology
2B.4A
shape of the beach
what is a beach sediment profile
2B.4A
pattern of distribution of different sized or shaped deposited material
how do constructive waves effect beach morphology
2B.4A
net movement of sediment up the beach steeping the beach profile
Produce berms at the point where swash reaches high tide line
swash carries sediment of all sizes up the beach but weaker backwash can only transport smaller particles down the beach = larger heavier shingle at back of beach and sand closer to ocean -> backwash flows down beach loses energy through friction = sediment further sorted = fine sands closest to sea - coarser sands deposited in middle of beach
what is a berm
2B.4A
ridge of material across the bridge
how do destructive waves effect beach morphology
2B.4A
- beach gradient reduced due to weak swash and powerful backwash which produces sediment down the beach
- some sediment thrown forwards by strong waves
- large pebble sized sediment dragged down the beach by backwash to form wide ridge of material below
- friction could cause backwash to down some sediment on middle or lower beach = deposited size sediment decreasing towards sea
Decadal Variation - Beach Morpholgy
2B.4A
Climate change is expected to produce more extreme
weather events in the uk
winter profiles may be present for longer time over course of year
more frequent powerful destructive waves reduce beach size = high tides to reach inland = rate of erosion increase
Monthly Variation - Beach Morphology
2B.4A
Highest tide occurs every 2 months at spring tide - two very low high. tides
As months progress from spring down to neap tides - lower high tides produce series of berms at lower and lower points down the beach
Berms destroyed as material pushed further up beach - once a neap tide passes and moves towards next spring tide
Daily Variation
2B.4A
Destructive waves from storms in summer reshape beach
Constructive waves = calm conditions in winter
Wind Drops = destructive waves -> constructive waves
Storm beaches = result from high energy deposition of sediment from sever storms
what does energy transferred from the wind depend on
2B.4A
wind strength
wind fetch
uninterrupted distance upon water over which wind blows over
wind duration
how are sea waves produced
2B.4A
winds currently blowing in local area - vary in height and direction
what happens when the wind drops
2B.4A
wave energy continues to be transfers across ocean in the form of swell waves
Swell Waves
2B.4A
absorb smaller sea waves and gain energy and height as they travel
travel long distances before they lose energy
produce waves at coast even with no wind
can form periodically larger waves amongst smaller
Name the 4 erosion processes
Hydraulic Action
Corossion
Abrasion
Attrition
Effect of Erosion
Boudle clay of the Holderness coast retreated by 120cm in last 100 years
Granite of Lands End in Cornwall has retreated by only 10cm in last 100 years
How the 4 erosions are influences by wave type, size and lithology
Most effective during storms events with large destructive waves
Coastlines of soft sediment experience little erosion under normal conditions
Most erosion in UK in winter high energy storms
what does hydraulic action do and where it occurs
force of water itself breaks up rock
occurs through direct impact of the water itself
Hydraulic Action and Destructive waves
plunging destuctive waves can exert a force of 50KG
sufficer tor break off material from unconsolidated material - boulder clay
Process of Hydraulic Acton
force of breaking waves compresses air into crack \
wave energy exhausted, the compressed air explodes outwards = fractures in rocks
over time small fragments of rock break away or main rock is weak enough too all
Hydraulic action is igneous rock
hydraulic action attacking its cooling joints only effective wave erosion process
What is abrasion
wave picks up sediment - throws load item against the rock - repeated impact chips away at the rock face until small fragments break away
When is abrasion most effective
high energy destructive waves with large wave height hurf load items with greater force = faster rates of erosion by abrasion
what rock erode quickly from abrasion
soft sedimentary rock such as chalk mudstones and clays. Unconsolidated material - boulder clay
What is Corrosion
Water dissolves rock minerals, minerals carried away by wave in solution - vulernable to erosion by rainwater and sea spray
Most effective waves of Corrosion
Constructive
Slow with long wave length (longer the better) prolongs the contact of rock with water
what rocks erode quickly from Corrosion
Carbnate rocks like limestones (chalk, jurassic limestone)
what is attrition
material transported by wave edged through collision with other low items.
how does attrition break down sediment
into smaller sized particles and repeated cousin blunts any of the sharp edges
where does attrition occur
in foreshore and nearshore zones, where sediment is moved by swash and backwash
what rocks erode quickly from attrition
soft rocks - chalk and clay
how is a wave cut notch formed
2.4BC
between hide tide and low tide marks - destructive waves impact against the cliffs
how is wave cut notch eroded
hydraulic action and arbasion, sometimes corrosion
wave cut notch example
Kimmeridge bay
what is a wave cut platform
flat rock surface exposed at low tide - extends from the sea and base of cliff
Formatio of Wave cut platform
- abrasion and hydraulic action erode between high and low tide, which forms notch at the base
- notch depends by further erosion until material collapses due to gravity, forming a cliff
- Process is repeated - until coastal recession
- rock below low tide is always submerged, never exposed to wave impact
- overlying material eroded , uneroded rock left flat = wave cut platform
wave cut platform extra info
slope seaward at 4 degrees
rock pools created by weathering attacking weaknesses at low tide
platform rarely extend more. than hundred metres
Cliffs - Coastal landscapes produced by erosion
Formation of a cliff
steep slopes usually unvegetated
hydraulic action dn abrasion forms a wave cut notch
notch deepens until rock collapses due to force of gravity
exposed face forms a cliff
Cave -> Arch -> Stack -> Stump sequence
- joints and faults or dipping bedding planes in rocks are eroded rapidly (hydraulic action)( forms a sea cave)
- wave refraction concentrates energy on the sides of the headland, producing destructive waves with large wave height
- A line of weakness extends right through the headland caves form on both sides
marine erosion = cave deepens until they connect up = complete tunnel through the headland and forming an arch
Hydraulic action and abrasion forms wave cut. notches from attacking the side of the arch
mass movement = undercutting of the sides and widening of the arch
Weathering attack the arch roof = roof the arch collapses = leaving seaward end of the headland detached = called a stack
Marine erosion at base stack forms notch on all sides until stack collapses
remnants of the stack base from stump, small projection of rock exposed only low tide
what does cliff slope angle depend on
the rip of the rock strata
Horizontal, vertical or landward dip produces steep cliffs
Seaward dip produces a shallower slope angle - can be produced when lithology is unconsolidated
what is traction, and examples
where large, heavy load items are rolled along the sea bed
Boulders and cobbles and pebbles
what is saltation, and examples
lighter sediment bounces along, sand particles are usually transported this way. Sand can be saltated by wind as well as waves - dry windy day there can be a layer of salivating sand 2-10cm above this beach
what is suspension and examples
very light sediment is carried aloft within body of water or air
Silt or Clay particles
Suspended clay particles give sea cloudy, muddy brown colour on soft rock coasts - Holderness
Solution
sediment is carried dissolved within the water
Direction of the Wave Attack
Main determinant of the direction of the sediment transport
Wind is blowing directly onshore the incoming swash transport the material direction up the beach 90 degrees to the coastline
backwash then transport perpendicularly back down to the beach so its original starting position
Sediment is moved up and down the beach, but there is no lateral
What is longshore drift
net lateral transport of material along the coastline when waves approach the coast at an angle
Process of Longshore drift
swash transports sediment up the beach
Gradational backwash then transport sediment back down the beach 90 coastline
Sediment particle rests some distance along the beach due to no net lateral movement
Particles moves in zig zag along the beach with the wave
what wave angle produces strongest Longshore drift
30 to the coastline, on most coastline their is dominant prevailing wind = over time dominant direction of wind
what is current
flow of water in particular direction and can transport sediment in the nearshore and offshore zones
what is current driven by
winds, initiated by differences in water density temperature or salinity
global thermohaline - Currents
global thermohaline circulation connects four ocean and takes 5000 years for one complete circuit
What is a rip current
currents on the beach transport sediment few metres out to sea for a few hours when the wind is blowing directly onshore with the right strength
Tides
Incoming and ebbing tide can create tidal currents in the nearshore and offshore zones that transport sediment
prevailing wind
most common direction
domaint wind
strongest wind direction
where is the dominant wind in the UK
North East
UK south coast wind
wind from the south west is both dominant and prevaling
what is tidal range
distance between high tide and low tide
what does a large tidal range produce
strong tidal current - may create tidal bore which produces wave that can transport sediment