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ME3019 > Clothmaking and Clothing > Flashcards

Clothmaking and Clothing Flashcards

1
Q

Who carried out most labour and where?

A

The landowners household free and unfree

Carried out on family farms

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2
Q

What did monks and nuns spend most of their time doing?

A

On manual labour

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3
Q

What were the most fundamental daily tasks associated in the production of?

A

Food and clothing

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4
Q

What were most clothing materials made from?

A
  • Sheep (wool)
  • Linen (flax)
  • Leather (a variety of animals)

Gathered on the farm

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5
Q

Describe Ine 44.1 and its significance and implications

A

“The tax-cloth (gafolhwitel) due from each household shall be worth six pence”

Only universal tax not based on land ownership

Suggests cloth formed a major part of royal income

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6
Q

What was a major export for southern english kingdoms in this period?

A

Cloth (and wool?)

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7
Q

Before the 11thCE who participated in cloth production?

A

Largely women’s work

Nunneries basically textile factories

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8
Q

What, according to Banham & Faith, did the cloth tax of Ine 44.1 consist of?

A

Equivalent in value to three fleeces

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9
Q

What was the character of cattle in this period?

A

No specialised breeds, all horned

Horns = defence and early on yoked them using the horns

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10
Q

What were some of the average prices for livestock?

A 
Sheep = 3-4 pence lower than pigs
Pigs = 8-10p
Cows = 20-24p
Oxen = 30p
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11
Q

What advantages did sheep have over cattle and what might this imply?

A
  1. Cheaper
  2. More versatile (wool, milk, meat)
  3. Could survive on lower quality pasture than cattle
  4. Sheep seem to be able to survive with (relatively) little water

Cos a peasant could offered to keep sheep they were not a status symbol

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12
Q

Who might have been the major diary animal in the period based on its advantages over other livestock?

A

Sheep’s milk

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13
Q

The Rectitudines regards what as the “basic requirement for a peasant holding”?

A

6 sheep, 2 oxen, 1 cow

Later source though so size of hides might have changed/wealth of landowners

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14
Q

What do sheep horns found at york suggest?

A

Both sexes of sheep horned, the variety in horn types also suggests different breeds

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15
Q

How do some bones suggest the evolution of sheep in the period?

A

The diameter of long bones greater in proportion to their length

As people wanted more wool and milk from ewes, they and wethers sizes probably overlapped
Got shorter, stockier and more robust

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16
Q

What foodstuffs did Flixborough have a focus on?

A

Egg production

Hens dont lay over the winter

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17
Q

What are Banham and Faith’s opinion on wool?

A

“by far the most common fibre in Anglo-Saxon textiles, so sheep were clearly of great importance in the domestic economy”

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18
Q

When was wool exported to Frankia as early as?

A

Offa’s time

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19
Q

What is a relatively common find in archaeology?

A

Sheers

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20
Q

What happened during the 9thCE in Flixborough?

A

High proportion of sheep bones there, many with ‘penning elbow’ - a condition from being kept in confined spaces

Intensification of textile trade and response to woollen trade overseas

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21
Q

What are some of the cost benefit stats of sheep according to Banham & Faith?

A

2p a fleece = half the animals value

Age at death data suggests most sheep lived to yield two clips of wool

22
Q

Was goose a foodstuff in this period?

A

Not really (not a priority)

Geese mainly used for feathers more geese reaching maturity shows meat wasnt the priority (although presumably ate the bodies?)

23
Q

How did honey play into things?

A

Not so much produced (at least currently no evidence for hives like in Ireland) but it was very valuable - used for mead and high-sugar meant high-energy

24
Q

What might charters tell us about shared land?

A

Ponds and watercourses often cited as boundaries of land - so may be shared resources

25
Q

Was irrigation a thing?

A

Ditching a spring task of Gerefa, so irrigation “a normal part of farming operations” (Banham & Faith)

26
Q

If animals werent in pens…

A

…they would have to be supervised (calendar month may - sheep on a hill w/ shepherd)

If only rounded up periodically then would have to spend a lot of the time fending for themselves

27
Q

What was the situation with dogs in this period?

A

Highly valued - guard dogs and sheep dogs and hunting dogs

Some were 35cm at the shoulder, some wolf-sized

28
Q

How self-maintaining were goats and sheep?

A

If left to themselves, they could follow a daily circuit of their home range
Goats needed a much larger space to do this so peasants probably tied them if they owned one - they could cause a lot of havoc in a settlement

29
Q

What was the female/male split of sheep?

A

Most ram lambs castrated rather than culled - unless theres a “considerable pressure on grazing” (B&F)

30
Q

What is one stat for sheep mortality rate?

A

Year-year mortality rate for feral soay sheep “exceeds fifty percent” (B&F)

Soay the modern ‘wild’ breed in Shetland and probs the closest to what sheep were like in this period

31
Q

What might be one reason the Germans didnt produce as much wool as English?

A

Fewer predators in England means livestock can be left largely to themselves - at least probably more so in the south

32
Q

When and where did silk come from?

A

From ~800 onwards, always imported from byzantium - only really clergy that wore silk clothes

33
Q

What was one thing that might be harmful to the animals?

A

Apart from Soay, wool will just keep on growing

How fast is Ine makes people wait till midsummer?

34
Q

What were spindles and combs and when might they be used?

A

Tools used for processing wool - quite small so probably carried a spindle and wool around wherever and work on the go

35
Q

Why would Linen be ideal for undergarments?

A
  • Easier to wash than wool
  • Softer with each wash
  • Wicks better too
36
Q

What was one disadvantage of Linen and one way to limit this?

A

It was the fastest deteriorating clothe-material and beeswax was used to make it last longer

37
Q

How did Linen and Wool looms differ?

A

Linen loom need to be tighter than wool ones

38
Q

What was big in clothing practice?

A

Hand-me-downs and reusing people inherited clothes (Welsh lawcode suggests king gave to retinue who gave to lower classes and so on - so a ceorl might have the kings clothes from 6 or 7 years ago) #sustainablefashion

39
Q

How long might it have taken to turn wool into yarn?

A

17ish hours

40
Q

How might cloth have been worn?

A

A single piece of cloth that would be pinned and wrapped where appropriate (eg Scandinavia, Roman toga, highland plaid)

41
Q

Why wasn’t beeswax used for waterprrofing?

A

Too expensive and wool could keep you warm even when wet

42
Q

What was the likely character of silk use in the insular world?

A

Likely only embroidering using silk done - it seems silk thread was imported but the weaving of silk not seen in the insular world

Silk very high-status and largely liturgical

43
Q

Why were clasps and garters used?

A

Cutting curves in fabric wastes it cos cant be used again, so same width at tom and bottom

44
Q

Who were some of the people criticised most for wearing fancy clothes?

A

Nuns

Many members of royal dynasties/princesses

45
Q

How regularly were bright colours used?

A

Not often and probs high-status (eg Queen Margaret 12thCE)

46
Q

How might clothes impact identity?

A

Probs the first thing you notice is where someone is from (eg Alamanic women & key belt they had)

Queen Margaret moved elite to more modern consumptionism - not sticking to ‘stereotypical’ clothing

47
Q

Give some deets on looms

A
  • Painstaking to set up
  • Required two people (otherwise take even longer)
  • Need to know each other’s timing and also get close because spend lots of time together
48
Q

How likely was pre-marital sex?

A

Probs very unlikely cos, until the 60’s, no contraception meant pre-marital pregnancy very problematic

49
Q

Why was marriage and divorce quite straightforward?

A

Cos just a contract back then

50
Q

What cannot be over-emphasised?

A

The gender role of weaving - youd spend hours and hours with another/other women
Also why nunneries effectively textile factories

51
Q

Where was weaving done?

A

In weaving shed

But spinning could be done anywhere (like using a phone for work stuff now) - could spin whilst walking along

ME3019 (9 decks)

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