CL - depositional landforms 1-18p Flashcards
(46 cards)
examples of inputs in a system
- energy from:
- waves
- wind
- tides
- currents - sediment
- geology of coastline
- sea level change
examples of components of a system
erosional and depositional landforms and landscapes
examples of outputs in a system
- dissipation of wave energy
- accumulation of sediment above the tidal limit
- sediment removed beyond local sediment cells
what are sediment cells
- movement of sediment that occurs in distinct areas called cells
- a stretch along the coastline where sand is largely self-contained
- closed system
- although there are inputs and outputs of energy, the sediment stays largely within the cell
whats a sub - cell
- if part of a larger cell they are called sub cells
flamborough head-humber estuary sub cell is part of the
flmborough head the wash cell
parts of a wave and what is it
undulations on the surface of the sea driven by wind
- fetch - distance the waves travels over the sea
- height - difference between the CREST (highest part) and the TROUGH (lowest)
- length - distance between crests
- frequency - number of waves per min
how waves are formed and the process
- wave enters shallow water
- friction with the seabed increases causing the wave to slow down
- the wavelength decreases and successive waves start to bunch up
- the wave increases in height
- then plunges or breaks onto the shoreline
3 types of breaking waves
spilling - steep waves on gently sloping beaches
plunging - steep waves on steep beaches
surging - low angle waves on steep beaches
constructive waves
- low
- long length (up to 100m)
- low frequency (6-8 per min)
- the strong swash loses momentum and volume leading to a weak backwash and low sediment movement off the beach
- higher swash energy than backwash
- material is slowly and gradually moved up the beach forming BERMS
destructive waves
- high
- steep
- high frequency (10-14 per min)
- powerful backwash. where sediment is pulled away from the beach
- backwash has more energy than swash
- very little material is moved up the beach - forming STORM BEACHES
what is wave refraction
- when waves break on an irregularly shaped coastline
an example of wave refraction - headland separating two bays
- waves drag in the shallow water approaching a headland
- wave becomes high steep and short
- the part of the wave in deeper water moves forward at a faster pace causing the wave to bend
- the low energy wave spills into the bays as most of the wave energy is concentrated on the headland
tidal cycles
the periodic rise and fall of the sea surface is produced by the gravitational pull of the moon and to a lesser extent the sun
- the moon pulls water towards it creating high tide
- there is a compensating ‘bulge’ on the opposite side of the earth
- at areas between the two bulges - low tide occurs
- when the moon and sun are at right angles to each other the gravitational pull is weak - NEAP TIDE
tidal range
influences where wave action occurs and weathering processes
lithology and examples
- chemical and physical structure of rocks
- weak rock like clay erode faster than resistant rock such as basalt
concordant coastline
- bands of rock lie PARALLEL to the coastline
- the hard rock lies on the seaward side and bays develop when a weakness is eroded landward
discordant coastline
- bands of rock lie perpendicular to the coastline
- weaker rock erodes faster forming a bay and the hard rock is left forming a headland
landward and seaward dipping rocks
landward - lead to steep cliffs
seaward - cliffs follow the angle of dip
long shore drift
waves approaching te shoreline at angle creating a zig zag pattern
creates a current of water running parallel to the shoreline
rip currents
- strong currents moving away from the shoreline due to a build-up of sea water and energy along the coastline
- creates beach features such as cusps
upwelling
- global pattern of currents circulating in the oceans can cause deep water to move towards the surface which displaces the warmer water
global pattern of ocean currents
- the global pattern of ocean currents is generated by the earths rotation
- warm ocean currents transfer heat from low latitudes to high latitudes and cold ocean currents from high to low latitudes
positive sediment budget
more material added than removed - shoreline builds to the sea
negative sediment budget
more material removed than added - shoreline recedes landwards