chemical peels Flashcards
what 2 doctors discovered aha’s when applied to the skin in formulation containing particular percentages normalized the formation and sheddinf of the stratum corneum cells sought a way to reform new layers of skin in the 1960’s
dr.eugene van scott and Dr Ruey yu
to the naked eye some of the beneficial changes are what, but the changes are certainly happening on a cellular level
not visible
to make the peels used by aesthetian and clinical skin specialists safer many of the peels were reformulated with what?
buffering agents added to make them less irratating to the skin after the peel was perormed
what are 4 natural sources of buffering agents
liquorice extract, willow bark, sodium and ammonium hydroxide
cosmetic medical skin resurfacing treatments we are deliberately sloughing off or resurfacing to improve what ?
skin texture and stimulate cell renewal
chemical peels cause what and which is the process that removes the what from the surface of the skin
exfoliation and corneocytes (dead skin cells)
what are 5 types of chemical peels
scrub peels, enzymes peels, exfoliator peels, medium and deep peels
it is essensial to know your products what
ingredients ph levels and strengths
research has shown that what improves natural cell turn over and actually increase the cell renewal rate
exfoliation
as we age the cycle slows down studies show it may decrease from the origianal lenght which is what
28-30 to 40 days or more
be careful not to over exfoliate excessive exfoliation can do what
seriously disturb the skins natural process of cell turn over and thin the corneum layer to much
what are 6 types of reactions when there is over treatment or excessive exfoliation
dryness, sensitivity, excessive peeling, fissures, crusting or scabbin
what layer must an aesthetician only work on
superficial layer
what are 4 terms of mechanical exfoliation
scrubs, microdermabraison, dermabraison, laser resurfacing
chemical exfoliation is also known as what ? what chemicals are used ?
chemoexfoliation, natural and synthetic substances
superficial peels remove what stratum layers
corneum layer and granulosum layer
what type of peels typically use trichlororoacetic acid (TCA) that remove the epidermis and varying depth of the dermis
medium peels
what peels typically use phenol that remove the epidermis and varying depth of the dermis and is used to treat deeply wrinkles scarred or severely sun damaged
deeper peels
what are 6 indications of chemical peels
acne, comadones, dehydrated skin, dry skin, fine line, oily skin
what are 6 containdications
herpes active, pregnancy, skin cancer, skin infections, sunburn, accutane
what is the term for PH
potential hydrogen
PH refers to its degree of acidity or alkalinity that measures what on the scale
0-14
the higher the pH the ……
more akaline the substance is
the lower the pH …
the more acidic
the pH of the skins acidic mantle ranges from what
4.5 to 6
the pH of normal skin is generally what
5.5
for chemical peels to be effective for skin refining and rejuvenation the pH needs to be what number
2.1-3.8
any peel that is over what numer loses its affectiveness
3.8
when considering a effective chemical peel such as glycolic acid it is more important to do what
consider the pH level rather than the percentage or strength of the glycolic acid in the peel
all products and peel ingredients have a pH level and when using a chemical peel it is important to do what
determin the pH number as the number will help determin the affectiveness
when a product has been… what… this means that an alkaline sbstance such as sodium hydroxide has been added to the formula
buffered
the objective being to reduce its “caustcity” unfortunatley doing this actually turns the formula into what and making the glycolic acid neutral and essential ineffective for what
salt and water skin refining and rejuvenation
ingredients and concetration of a chemical peel play a big role in determining the depth of the chemical peel however, other variables can make a difference such as what
whether a pre peel defatting preparation was preformed, the amount of chemical applied, the length of time the chemical is alllowed on the skin
what describes something that dissolves comodones
comedolytic
what has detachment or loosening of the epidermis
epidermolysis
what is a water binder and draws water to itself
humectant
what describes something that disolves or breaks down keratin
keratolytic
what are 2 examples of superficial peels
superficial peels remove the layers of dead skin cells from a portion of the corneum layer
it is important not to abandon this treatment type prior to the client having had the full course. the ideal number of treatments to have is 6.
what are the two best known enzyme peels (fruit)
papain -papaya
bromaline - pineapple
enzyme peels are often less agressive tha AHA’s and BHA’s so they can genually be used for what skin types
sensitive skin
what is the most important way to control the strength and effect of the peel on the skin
time
if someone is allergic or sensitive to papaya or pinapple it is best to what ?
avoid
what are the 5 types of AHA acids
glycolic acid - from sugar cane citric acid - citrus foods lactic acid - sour milk malic acid - fermented apples and cherries tartaric - fermented grapes madelic acid - bitter almonds
when AHA’s are used correctly they can help improve what to the skin
hydration
what are 2 examples of glycolic acid
they are most affective because the glycolic molecule has a smaller molecular weight which allows it to penetrate more effectively through the corneocytes,
if glycolic acids are used incorrectly they can cause mild to severe skin irritation
what are 2 examples of lactic acid
they hae keratolytic action on the corneocytes but leave the lipid barrier intact
these produce gentler peel that is well tolerated by most skin types
what are 2 examples of BHA’s
they are lipophilic meaning attract lipids which allows them to unclog follicle openings
the most comon BHA’s ingredients is salicylic acid
general properties of salicylic acid
analgesic, antiseptic, and anti -inflammatory
salicylic acid is found in what ingredients
meadowsweat, willowbark, wintergreen
what do you do if someone is allergic to asprin or resorcinol
do not give BHA’s or salycilic acid peels
jessner peel consist of a combination of what
salicylic acid, lactic acid and resorcinol
patients must never … at the loose skin because infection can occur
never pick or peel
what is recommended to allow the skin to heal from jessners peel
special calming serums
what can lessen the benefit the jessner peel
moisturizing
jessner peels can be applied how many times
2-3 weeks
medium peel goes to what layer
epidermis and dermis
how deep does a medium peel penetrate
0.06mm
what percentage are non nutralized glycolic acids
70%
TCAS 10-35 % are often what type of peels
jessner peels
AHA’s are called what and love what ?
hydrophilic and love water
BHA’s are called what and love what ?
lipohilic and love oil
lipohilic are good fro what skin type
oily skin and acneic skin
hydrophilic are good for what skin type
dehydrated or dry skin
what is the gold standard for melasma
glycolic acid
gold standard for acne
BHA salicylic acid
gold standard for mature
lactic acid (glycolic)
gold standard for dry skin
lactic acid (glycolic)
definition of self nutralizing
takes time to react and work
what are 3 types of chemical peels
superficial, medium, deep
what type of collagen do we want to treat
type 1 and 3
what are the 3 phases in healing process
inflammatory response 1-3 days
proliferation 7 days
remodeling weeks or months
what does defatting mean
removing of oil oil degreeser
wound healing is typically how long
3-4 weeks
glycolic does what to skin cells 6 types
remove dead skin cells smooths rough skin purges oil and dirt shrinks pores diminish wrinkles fades discoloration
wha are the 3 types of chemical peels and their definition
superficial : dissolve the corneolcytes from the stratum corneum
medium : affect the epidermis and papalillary layer
deep : go through the epidermis papalillary layer and recticular layer
what skin type number can chemical peels go over acne skin
type 1,2 and 3
