Chapter 9: Microdermabrasion Flashcards

1
Q

What is microdermabrasion and how does it work?

A
  • projection of natural mineral crystals onto the skin to remove epidermis cells and flaws that occur on the skin surface
  • by removing part of the epidermis, microdermabrasion triggers the natural repair mechanism of the skin, promoting the skin to produce more collagen and elastin proteins
  • removal of the stratum corneum reduces the appearance of fine lines, and wrinkles, scarring and hyperpigmentation
  • improved appearance of coarse skin and open pores
  • stimulates fibroblasts in the dermis to produce collagen and elastin thus improving strength and elasticity of the skin
  • increase in cell renewal results in rejuvenating effects
  • blood circulation is increased which brings fresh oxygen and nutrients to the area
  • lymphatic circulation is increased which assists with the removal of waste products from the area.
  • vasodialation of the blood vessels results in erythema
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2
Q

List the layers of the skin:

A
  1. epidermis (thinner outer layer of skin) (a vascular-no blood vessels)
  2. Dermis (thicker connective tissue layer/ vascular layer)
  3. Hypodermis (subcutaneous or sub-Q)

Epidermis gets nourishment from dermal layer. Cells far away from nourishment die.

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3
Q

What does epidermis mean?

A
  • derma=skin
  • epi=upon
  • epidermis= top layer of the skin
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4
Q

What is the epidermis and its 4 distinct cell types?

A

Epidermis is keratinized epithelium with 4 distinct cell types and 5 distinct layers:

Epidermis Cells:

  1. Keratinocytes
  2. Melanocytes
  3. Langerhans cells
  4. Merkel cells
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5
Q

Layers of the epidermis facts diagram:

A
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6
Q

Describe keratinocytes:

A
  • 90% of the cells in the epidermis are keratinocytes= produces a tough, fibrous protein called keratin. This protein is the main structural protein of the epidermis, and it provides many of the skins protective properties
  • the old keratinocytes at the upper surface of the skin constantly slough off. Meanwhile, cells in the lower layers of the epidermis divide continually, producing new keratinocytes to replace those that have sloughed off. By the time the cells reach the uppermost layer of the epidermis, they are dead and completely filled with the tough protein
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7
Q

Describe Melanocytes:

A
  • 8% of epidermal cells. Scattered among the keratinocytes in the epidermis. Produce a dark pigment called melanin.
  • this pigment gives colour to the skin and hair. It protects the skin against the suns ultraviolet rays.
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8
Q

Describe Merkel Cells:

A

-located in stratum basale. They are situated in epidermis of hairless skin and are responsible for sensations such as light tough, discrimination of texture and shapes

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9
Q

Describe langerhans cells:

A

-star shaped cells arising from bone marrow that migrate to the epidermis. Langerhans cells are actually immune system of the skin and easily damaged by UV light

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10
Q

List the 5 layers of the epidermis from basal layer to free surface:

A
  1. Stratum basale (deepest layer with rapid mitosis division)
  2. Stratum spinosum
  3. Stratum granulosum
  4. Stratum lucidum
  5. Stratum corneum

*during microdermabrasion we remove part of the epidermis

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11
Q

Describe the Stratum Corneum (the horny layer)

A
  • exposed surface of the skin
  • 15-30 layers of keratinized cells
  • this layer is water resistant
  • has many rows of dead cells filled with keratin and shed and replace every 2 weeks. This process is called desquamation
  • effective barrier against light, heat and bacteria

*every minute of the day we lose about 30-40K dead skin cells off the surface of our skin, which are called dandruff and flakes (40lbs of dead skin cells in a lifetime)

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12
Q

Describe the dermis:

A

-dermis contains lots of sensory cells (heat, cold, pain and pressure), and blood vessels regulate body temperature (vasoconstriction, vasodialation)
-it also contains lymphatic vessels
-the most important cells inside the dermis are fibroblasts and mast cells
—> fibroblasts are responsible for creating collagen and elastin. Mast cells are responsible for producing histamine

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13
Q

Describe collagen in the dermis:

A
  • the main structural component of the dermis is a protein called collagen. Bundles of collagen molecules pack together throughout the dermis, accounting for three-fourths (3/4) of the dry weight of skin
  • collagen is also responsible for the skins strength
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14
Q

Describe elastin in the dermis:

A
  • another protein in the dermis, elastin is the main component of elastic fibres. These protein bundles give skin elasticity
  • collagen and elastin are produced by cells called fibroblasts which are scattered through out the dermis
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15
Q

What is the DEFINITION of microdermabrasion and how does it work?

A
  • the projection of natural mineral crystals onto the skin to remove epidermis cells and flaws that occur on the skin surface
  • it works by removing part of the epidermis, microdermabrasion triggers the repair mechanism, promoting the skin to produce more collagen and elastin proteins
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16
Q

What are the 2 types of microdermabrasion system:

A
  1. Diamond tipped applicator head
    —the diamond tip removes the stratum corneum, the dead skin and debris are vacuumed and filtered into the system and discarded. The advantage of this system is that you can get closer to the eyes without risk of crystals getting into the eyes and there is no crystal residue to remove after treatment. Also, you will not have to keep refilling the container with crystals
  2. Crystal type microdermabrasion system
    —this system used cardunum crystals (aluminum oxide) micro-crystals which are applied to the skin at a controlled pressure through an applicator probe. The micro-crystals along with the dead skin cells are then sucked back up via a vacuum effect
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17
Q

What is derma-pod technology:

A
  • microdermabrasion with crystals: face treatment
  • Advantages: deep exfoliation
  • Patented Turbo Flow Projection System: delivers safe and even abrasion and can even be used on sensitive areas such as dark circles under eyes or areas where there is couperose
  • computer controlled functions: perfect outcome every time
  • 40 pre-programmed settings: treatments adapted to all skin types
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18
Q

What is cordunum crystal?

A
  • aluminum oxide (chemical name)
  • natural mineral found in nature
  • it has the same composition as ruby and sapphire with 90% corundum properties
  • hardness only exceeded by diamond
  • it has excellent abrasive qualities
  • perfect choice for microdermabrasion skin resurfacing
19
Q

Cordunum crystal history:

A
  • since 1940 in dental-abrasion system
  • buffered aspirin
  • tooth whiteners-toothpaste
  • canned food-processed cheese-mineral water
  • nail files, lipstick, mineral makeup
20
Q

Cordunum crystal safety:

A

-exposure to crystals even less than 4- micron in size has NO reaction
-crystals for microdermabrasion are 3 times larger at 120 micron
—that size is very hard for particles to become airborne

21
Q

Microdermabrasion clinical evaluation:

A

Day 1: increased activity in dermal fibroblast
Day 2: vascular proliferation, increase tissue oxygenation
Day 3: Epithelial cell proliferation at epidermal basal layer
Day 4: Proliferation of Collagen tissue in the dermis
Day 8: Complete restoration of the dermal layers

22
Q

Indications:

A
  • sun damage
  • uneven pigmentation
  • fine lines and wrinkles
  • enlarged follicles
  • course and granular skin
  • blackheads and comedones
  • minor to moderate stretch marks and scars
23
Q

Contraindications:

A

-lesions
-dermatitis (eczema, psoriasis)
Inflammatory acne or pustular infection
-active herpes outbreak
-on pigmented solar keratosis, thick and evolutionistic erythematic with ill-divined borders
-AIDS
-active diabetes
-prescription anticoagulants

24
Q

Depth of abrasion/ factors that effect microdermabrasion are:

A

S-speed
I-intensity setting on machine
T-times of repetition

25
Q

Describe the 3 different tips for microdermabrasion:

A

Blue: small tip for facial area
Green- Large tip for body treatment
Pink- rectangular tip for body on scars and stretch marks

*recently the company recommended the blue tip can be used for all face and body treatments

26
Q

Describe the 3 techniques used in every single microdermabrasion treatment:

A
  1. The Linear sweep:
    - used at the beginning of every treatment to remove top layers of epidermis
    - used in back and forth movement to work on wrinkles, skin fold, superficial scars and stretch marks
    - at the end of each treatment to even out the abrasion on the entire skin
  2. The circular sweep
    - used in treating hyper-pigmented areas
  3. The square pattern sweep
    - used on large area where there is evidence of uneven pigmentation, coarse skin, superficial acne scars, enlarged pores, blackheads, comedones
27
Q

3 Phases of treatment diagram:

A
28
Q

How many intensity settings does the Derma pod have?

A

40 intensity settings

From 20 to 100% in 2% increments

29
Q

What is the 20% to 30% intensity setting used for?

A
  • eye contour
  • neck treatment
  • face treatment for sensitive skin with redness
  • face treatment for fine lines or dehydrated skin
  • Phase 1 of first treatment (new client)
30
Q

What is the 30 to 40% intensity setting used for?

A
  • specific treatment of forehead, nose, chin and cheek areas
  • specific treatment of wrinkles of fine lines
  • neck treatments
31
Q

What is the 40 to 50% intensity setting used for?

A

-face treatment for very coarse and non sensitive areas

32
Q

What is the 30 to 60% intensity setting range used for?

A

-breast treatment and sensitive body areas

33
Q

What is the 50 to 100% intensity treatment setting used for?

A

-scar ands stretch mark treatments

34
Q

What does occlusion mean?

A

Upon contact with the skin

35
Q

Upon contact with the skin (occlusion), what happens?

A
  • a small amount of micro-crystals is propelled, providing a slight abrasion
  • for more powerful abrasion, increase the intensity, taking the clients level of sensitivity and skin type into consideration.
36
Q

Suggested treatment chart diagram:

A
37
Q

What is the anti-aging effect of microdermabrasion?

A
  • triggers healing response / repair mechanism (fibroblasts create collagen and elastin which we lose as we get older)
  • more collagen and elastin makes dermis thicker
  • as we get older dermis gets thinner and corneum gets thicker
  • one of the best preventive and corrective treatments for ageing skin
  • improvement in texture notices in first treatment but client needs 6 to 12 treatments for optimal skin rejuvenation benefits
38
Q

Treatment frequency for different skin types:

A

8-15 day intervals depending on skin type:

Oil= 8 days
Normal= 10 days
Dry, dehydrated, couperose, or red sensitive skin= 15 days

(A series consists of about 6 to 12 treatments)

39
Q

How many consecutive treatments does a series consist of?

A
  • results will then evaluated, and a second series of treatments may be suggested for severe problems such as hyperpigmentation, superficial scars or stretch marks
  • # of treatments will be based on how long the client has had the problem and on the severity of the problem (hyperpigmentation, superficial scars or stretch marks)
  • 1 treatment/ month is recommended for maintenance
40
Q

Prior to treatment, how long before should you discontinue the use of retinol-A, AHA, or glycolic acid products?

A

1 week prior to treatment

41
Q

How long prior to microdermabrasion should you wait after laser treatments or chemical peels including glycolic acid?

A

3 months

42
Q

How long prior to microdermabrasion treatment should those taking oral medications for acne treatments such as Accutane wait?

A

6 months after the end of their treatment

43
Q

When should you postpone microdermabrasion treatment?

A
  • if client has planned sun exposure (sailing, hiking, skiing, etc
  • in case of dermatitis, infection acne, eczema, psoriasis, or if skin is irritated or sun burned