Chapter 8 Flashcards

(45 cards)

1
Q

Ocean waves

A

movement of air across the ocean surface

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2
Q

Atmospheric waves

A

movement of different air masses represented by ripple-like clouds in the sky

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3
Q

Internal waves

A

waves traveling along the boundary between waters of different density, they are associated with a pycnocline

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4
Q

Splash waves

A

Mass movement into the ocean

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5
Q

Seismic sea waves

A

Underwater uplifts or down dropping of large areas of the sea floor

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6
Q

Wake

A

The wave left behind by a boa passing over the ocean

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7
Q

Longitudinal waves

A

Particles that vibrate in the same direction that the energy is traveling

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8
Q

Transverse waves

A

The energy moving at right angles to the direction of the vibrating particles

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9
Q

Orbital wave

A

The movement of particles in ocean waves involving components of both longitudinal and transverse waves

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10
Q

Crests

A

High parts of the wave

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11
Q

Troughs

A

low parts of the waves

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12
Q

still water level

A

Halfway between the crest and the trough, where the water would be if there was no wave

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13
Q

Wavelength

A

Horizontal distance between crests and troughs

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14
Q

Wave steepness

A

Ratio of wave heigh to wavelength, if ratio is steeper than 1/7 it is too steep

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15
Q

Wave period

A

The time it takes for a full wave to pass a fixed position

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16
Q

Frequency

A

Number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time

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17
Q

Circular orbital motion

A

Movement of water passing along energy by moving in a circle, objects in waves moves up and backwards then forwards and then down and backward

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18
Q

Wave base

A

Depth of the circular orbital, 1/2 the wavelength measured from still water level

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19
Q

Deep water waves

A

If the water depth is greater than the wave base

20
Q

Wave speed

A

Rate at which a wave travels, wavelength divided by period

21
Q

Shallow water waves

A

depth is less than 1.20 of the wavelength

22
Q

Transitional waves

A

waves that have characteristics of shallow water waves and deep water waves

23
Q

Capillary waves

A

small, rounded waves

24
Q

Gravity waves

A

Rougher waves that have wavelengths greater than .7 inches

25
Trochoidal waveform
Rounded wave with a pointed crest
26
Fetch
Distance over which the wind blows in one direction
27
Beaufort wind scale
Describes appearance of the sea surface based on winds
28
Fully developed sea
Highest height that a wave can grow
29
Swell
long crested waves moving faster than propelling wind
30
Wave trains
groups of waves sorted by wave length
31
Wave dispersion
sorting of waves by their wave length
32
decay distance
distance one which waves change from a choppy sea to uniform swell
33
Constructive interference
when wave trains come together, doubling heights
34
Destructive interference
when wave trains come together out of phase, negating the waves
35
Mixed interference
Swells coming together at different times
36
Rogue waves
massive freak waves that occur when strong ocean currents flow in the opposite direction of large waves
37
Surf zone
zone of breaking waves along the margins of a continent
38
Shoaling
Gradually shallowing water, causes speed to decrease
39
Spilling breaker
breaking wave with low energy due to gradual beach slope
40
Plunging breaker
results from steep beach slope
41
surging breaker
results from an abrupt beach slope
42
Orthogonal line
Lines orientated perpendicular to wave crests indicating direction that waves travel towards shore
43
Refraction
bending of each wave crest towards the shore along a curve
44
Wave reflection
How a vertical barrier can reflect waves back into another wave
45
Splash waves
resulting from large objects splashing into the ocean