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Oceanography > Chapter 8 > Flashcards

Chapter 8 Flashcards

1
Q

Ocean waves

A

movement of air across the ocean surface

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2
Q

Atmospheric waves

A

movement of different air masses represented by ripple-like clouds in the sky

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3
Q

Internal waves

A

waves traveling along the boundary between waters of different density, they are associated with a pycnocline

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4
Q

Splash waves

A

Mass movement into the ocean

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5
Q

Seismic sea waves

A

Underwater uplifts or down dropping of large areas of the sea floor

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6
Q

Wake

A

The wave left behind by a boa passing over the ocean

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7
Q

Longitudinal waves

A

Particles that vibrate in the same direction that the energy is traveling

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8
Q

Transverse waves

A

The energy moving at right angles to the direction of the vibrating particles

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9
Q

Orbital wave

A

The movement of particles in ocean waves involving components of both longitudinal and transverse waves

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10
Q

Crests

A

High parts of the wave

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11
Q

Troughs

A

low parts of the waves

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12
Q

still water level

A

Halfway between the crest and the trough, where the water would be if there was no wave

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13
Q

Wavelength

A

Horizontal distance between crests and troughs

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14
Q

Wave steepness

A

Ratio of wave heigh to wavelength, if ratio is steeper than 1/7 it is too steep

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15
Q

Wave period

A

The time it takes for a full wave to pass a fixed position

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16
Q

Frequency

A

Number of wave crests passing a fixed location per unit of time

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17
Q

Circular orbital motion

A

Movement of water passing along energy by moving in a circle, objects in waves moves up and backwards then forwards and then down and backward

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18
Q

Wave base

A

Depth of the circular orbital, 1/2 the wavelength measured from still water level

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19
Q

Deep water waves

A

If the water depth is greater than the wave base

20
Q

Wave speed

A

Rate at which a wave travels, wavelength divided by period

21
Q

Shallow water waves

A

depth is less than 1.20 of the wavelength

22
Q

Transitional waves

A

waves that have characteristics of shallow water waves and deep water waves

23
Q

Capillary waves

A

small, rounded waves

24
Q

Gravity waves

A

Rougher waves that have wavelengths greater than .7 inches

25
Q

Trochoidal waveform

A

Rounded wave with a pointed crest

26
Q

Fetch

A

Distance over which the wind blows in one direction

27
Q

Beaufort wind scale

A

Describes appearance of the sea surface based on winds

28
Q

Fully developed sea

A

Highest height that a wave can grow

29
Q

Swell

A

long crested waves moving faster than propelling wind

30
Q

Wave trains

A

groups of waves sorted by wave length

31
Q

Wave dispersion

A

sorting of waves by their wave length

32
Q

decay distance

A

distance one which waves change from a choppy sea to uniform swell

33
Q

Constructive interference

A

when wave trains come together, doubling heights

34
Q

Destructive interference

A

when wave trains come together out of phase, negating the waves

35
Q

Mixed interference

A

Swells coming together at different times

36
Q

Rogue waves

A

massive freak waves that occur when strong ocean currents flow in the opposite direction of large waves

37
Q

Surf zone

A

zone of breaking waves along the margins of a continent

38
Q

Shoaling

A

Gradually shallowing water, causes speed to decrease

39
Q

Spilling breaker

A

breaking wave with low energy due to gradual beach slope

40
Q

Plunging breaker

A

results from steep beach slope

41
Q

surging breaker

A

results from an abrupt beach slope

42
Q

Orthogonal line

A

Lines orientated perpendicular to wave crests indicating direction that waves travel towards shore

43
Q

Refraction

A

bending of each wave crest towards the shore along a curve

44
Q

Wave reflection

A

How a vertical barrier can reflect waves back into another wave

45
Q

Splash waves

A

resulting from large objects splashing into the ocean

Oceanography (2 decks)

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