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Cosmetology > Chapter 20: Chemical Texture Services > Flashcards

Chapter 20: Chemical Texture Services Flashcards

1
Q

The natural pH of hair is between 4.5 and 5.5.

A

true

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2
Q

Disulfide bonds cannot typically be broken by water.

A

true

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3
Q

You should always perform an elasticity test before perming a client’s hair.

A

true

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4
Q

Alkaline permanent waving solutions tighten the cuticle, causing the hair to contract and curl.

A

false

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5
Q

When perming porous hair, you should use a highly alkaline permanent waving solution.

A

false

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6
Q

In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place toward the end of the processing time, after about 15 to 20 minutes.

A

false

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7
Q

When perming a client’s hair, you should rinse the hair with a strong blast of hot water.

A

false

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8
Q

When wrapping hair for a perm, you should always wrap against the natural growth pattern.

A

false

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9
Q

Normalizing lotions have an acidic pH.

A

true

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10
Q

When performing a hair relaxing service, you should never apply a hydroxide relaxer on hair that has been previously treated with a thio relaxer.

A

true

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11
Q

Compounds made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur.

A

amino acids

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12
Q

Strong chemical side bonds formed when the sulfur atoms in two adjacent protein chains are joined together.

A

disulfide bonds

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13
Q

Weak physical side bonds that are the result of an attraction between opposite electrical charges.

A

hydrogen bonds

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14
Q

Long, coiled polypeptide chains.

A

keratin proteins

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15
Q

Chemical bonds that join amino acids together, end-to-end, in long chains.

A

peptide bonds

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16
Q

Long chains of amino acids joined together by peptide bonds.

A

polypeptide chains

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17
Q

Adding wave or curl to the hair is called:

A

permanent waving

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18
Q

The tough exterior layer of the hair structure is called the:

A

cuticle

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19
Q

Which of these is NOT one of the three types of side bonds that cross-link the polypeptide chains that make up the cortex?

A

nitrogen

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20
Q

In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is:

A

highly alkaline

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21
Q

Which of the side bonds is strongest?

A

disulfide bonds

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22
Q

Hydrogen bonds can be broken by:

A

water or heat

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23
Q

During the client consultation, Citra identifies Holly’s hair as mildly porous. With this in mind, which type of perm would be an appropriate choice for Holly?

A

acid-balanced wave

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24
Q

During the client consultation, Citra discussed the different types of curls that they could achieve, and Holly decided that she would prefer curls that are tighter in the center and looser on the ends. With this in mind, which type of perm rod should Citra use when perming Holly’s hair?

A

concave rod

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25
Q

Citra is using the basic permanent wrap method to perm Holly’s hair. As Citra divides Holly’s hair into panels, how wide should she make them?

A

equal to the length of the rod

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26
Q

As Citra perms Holly’s hair, she should:

A

check the nape of the neck for excess moisture prior to neutralizing the hair

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27
Q

About how long should it take for Holly’s hair to process?

A

less than 20 minutes

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28
Q

Breaking the side bonds of the _____ makes it possible to change the natural wave pattern of the hair.

A

cortex

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29
Q

A(n) _____ is a relatively weak physical side bond that is the result of an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges.

A

salt bond

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30
Q

The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the addition of _____.

A

hydrogen

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31
Q

In permanent waving, _____ stops the action of the waving solution and rebuilds the hair into its new curly form.

A

thio neutralization

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32
Q

The most common type of perm rods are _____ rods.

A

concave

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33
Q

The _____ wrap is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped.

A

double flat

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34
Q

When you use _____ placement, you wrap the hair at 45 degrees below the center of the base section.

A

off-base

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35
Q

In a(n) _____ perm wrap, the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod.

A

spiral

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36
Q

When using the piggyback technique, you should place the base rod in the middle of the strand and then wrap the strand:

A

one revolution around the rod while holding the strand to the side of the rod

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37
Q

When applying hydroxide relaxer to virgin hair, you should:

A

apply relaxer to the top of the strand first

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38
Q

What will happen if you use a spiral wrap when perming a client’s hair?

A

The size of the curl will remain constant along the entire length of the strand

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39
Q

Chemical texture procedures involve changing the structure of the hair:

A

both physically and chemically

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40
Q

The natural pH of hair is between:

A

4.5 and 5.5

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41
Q

Compounds consisting of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur are:

A

amino acids

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42
Q

Peptide bonds are also known as:

A

end bonds

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43
Q

The strongest of the three side bonds are:

A

disulfide

44
Q

Salt bonds are broken by:

A

changes in pH

45
Q

Which end paper technique uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope?

A

bookend wrap

46
Q

Base placement is determined by the:

A

angle at which the hair is wrapped

47
Q

For _____ placement, the hair is wrapped at a 45-degree angle beyond perpendicular to its base section, and the rod is positioned on its base.

A

on-base

48
Q

In half off-base placement, the hair is wrapped at an angle of:

A

90 degrees or perpendicular to the base section

49
Q

A _____ perm wrap is wrapped perpendicular to the length of the rod, in overlapping concentric layers.

A

spiral

50
Q

The strength of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of:

A

thio

51
Q

What is the active ingredient in alkaline permanents?

A

ammonium thioglycolate

52
Q

Cold wave is another term for a(n) _____ wave.

A

alkaline

53
Q

What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions?

A

GMTG

54
Q

True acid waves have a pH between:

A

4.5 and 7.0

55
Q

A pH of _____ is neutral for hair.

A

5

56
Q

What kind of waves are sulfites used in?

A

low-pH

57
Q

What two important functions are performed by the neutralization process?

A

deactivating waving solution and rebuilding disulfide bonds

58
Q

Thio neutralization rebuilds disulfide bonds by:

A

removing hydrogen

59
Q

The basic permanent wrap is also known as a:

A

straight set wrap

60
Q

Which wrapping pattern uses pie-shaped base sections?

A

curvature permanent wrap

61
Q

The measurement of the thickness or thinness of a liquid that affects how the fluid flows is:

A

viscosity

62
Q

The neutralizer used with thio relaxers is usually:

A

hydrogen peroxide

63
Q

Which straightening method combines use of a thio relaxer with flat ironing?

A

Japanese thermal straightening

64
Q

Hydroxide relaxers remove one atom of sulfur from a disulfide bond, converting it into a _____ bond.

A

lanthionine

65
Q

Guanidine hydroxide relaxers are advertised and sold as _____ relaxers.

A

no-lye

66
Q

What is used to protect the skin and scalp during hair relaxing?

A

base cream

67
Q

The application for a virgin relaxer starts _____ away from the scalp.

A

1/4-inch to 1/2-inch

68
Q

A _____ is a thio-based chemical service that reformats curly and wavy hair into looser and larger curls and waves.

A

soft curl permanent

69
Q

A _____ is a conditioner with an acidic pH that conditions hair and restores the natural pH prior to shampooing.

A

normalizing lotion

70
Q

Generally, keratin straightening treatments eliminate up to what percent of frizz and curl?

A

95 percent

71
Q

The side bonds of the _____ must be broken in order to change the natural wave pattern of the hair.

A

cortex

72
Q

Which type of hair requires a highly alkaline chemical solution?

A

coarse, resistant hair

73
Q

​Polypeptide chains are long chains of amino acids joined together by _____ bonds.

A

peptide

74
Q

​A _____ bond is NOT a type of side bond.

A

peptide

75
Q

​Hydrogen bonds can be broken by:

A

water or heat

76
Q

Disulfide bonds account for about _____ of the hair’s overall strength.​

A

one-third

77
Q

The base direction can be:​

A

horizontal, vertical, or diagonal

78
Q

The reduction reaction in permanent waving is due to the:

A

addition of hydrogen

79
Q

Which of these is NOT a component of all exothermic waves?​

A

​hydroxide relaxer

80
Q

Which type of metal is NOT commonly used to form ionic compounds in metal hydroxide relaxers?

A

​magnesium (Mg)

81
Q

When the silicone polymers and formalin in keratin-based straightening treatments are heated to high temperatures, they release:

A

formaldehyde gas

82
Q

An acid-balanced wave has a pH of:

A

7.0

83
Q

A properly processed permanent wave should break and rebuild approximately _____ percent of the hair’s disulfide bonds.​

A

50

84
Q

​Which type of perm should you recommend if the client has very damaged hair?

A

true acid wave

85
Q

Underprocessed hair is usually:​

A

straighter at the scalp and curlier at the ends

86
Q

​What is the primary benefit of ammonia-free waves?

A

They do not have a strong odor.

87
Q

​The strength of any permanent wave is based on the:

A

concentration of its reducing agent

88
Q

Overprocessed hair:​

A

occurs when too many disulfide bonds are broken

89
Q

The first function of thio neutralization is the:​

A

deactivation of any remaining waving lotion

90
Q

When performing a perm, you should always:

A

smell the hair after the recommended time has elapsed

91
Q

​A preliminary test curl will NOT answer which of these questions?

A

Is the client allergic to any of the products that will be used?

92
Q

How long is a typical soft bender rod?

A

12 inches

93
Q

​Which method of wrapping provides the most control over the hair ends?

A

double flat wrap

94
Q

With the _____, base sections are offset from each other row by row.

A

bricklay permanent wrap

95
Q

The _____ uses zigzag partings to divide base areas.

A

weave technique

96
Q

​The double-rod wrap technique is especially effective on _____ hair.

A

long

97
Q

When performing a permanent wave, you should:

A

immediately replace towels that have become wet with solution

98
Q

When performing a test to determine whether metallic salts are present, the hair will _____ in the solution if metallic salts are present.​

A

​lighten rapidly

99
Q

Thio relaxers use the same ATG that is used in permanent waving, but at a:

A

​higher concentration and a higher pH

100
Q

​Hydroxide relaxers are:

A

​very strong alkalis

101
Q

​Which type of relaxers are commonly called lye relaxers?

A

​sodium hydroxide

102
Q

The sulfites used as low-pH hair relaxers are compatible with:

A

thio relaxers

103
Q

​It is recommended that you apply base cream when using:

A

both base relaxers and no-base relaxers

104
Q

A super-strength relaxer is recommended if the client has _____ hair.

A

extremely curly

105
Q

​When performing a chemical hair relaxing service, it is appropriate to:

A

conduct periodic strand tests during the service

106
Q

​Which type of wave is activated by an outside heat source, such as a conventional hood-type hair dryer?

A

endothermic

Cosmetology (5 decks)

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