chapter 20 Flashcards
The range of numbers used in the pH scale is _____.
0 to 14
The two methods of wrapping the hair around a perm rod are _____.
croquignole and spiral
_____ refers to the position of the rod in relation to its base section and is determined by the angle at which the hair is wrapped.
Base placement
All acid waves have three components: permanent waving lotion, neutralizer, and _____.
activator
Which bond is relatively weak physical side bonds resulting from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges, and are easily broken by changes in pH?
Salt bonds
In a _____, the hair is wrapped at an angle other than perpendicular to the length of the rod which causes the hair to spiral along the length of the rod.
spiral perm wrap
What is the main active ingredient in true acid and acid-balanced waving lotions?
Glyceryl monothioglycolate
Alkaline waves, also known as _____, were developed in 1941.
cold waves
In permanent waving, the reduction reaction is due to the addition of _____.
hydrogen
The active ingredient or reducing agent in alkaline permanent waves is _____.
ammonium thioglycolate
Base sections are offset from each other row by row to prevent noticeable splits and to blend the flow of the hair, in which wrapping pattern?
Bricklay permanent wrap
In permanent waving, the shape and type of curl are determined by the shape and type of rod and the _____.
wrapping method
What is another name for the double-rod wrap technique?
Piggyback wrap
The process that stops the action of permanent wave solution and rebuilds the hair into its new form is called _____.
thio neutralization
In permanent waving, most of the processing takes place as soon as the solution penetrates the hair, within the first _____.
5–10 minutes
Without a thorough understanding of _____, cosmetologists could damage hair, cause hair loss, and harm their clients and themselves.
chemistry
The _____ uses only one end paper, placed over the top of the hair strand.
single flat wrap
The angle at which a permanent wave rod is positioned on the head is referred to as _____.
base direction
Chemical hair texturizers temporarily raise the pH of the hair to an alkaline state in order to _____.
soften and swell the shaft
Hair that has too many broken disulfide bonds and will not hold a firm curl is considered _____.
overprocessed
Most acid waves used in salons have a pH value between _____.
7.8 and 8.2
_____ waves are perms using an ingredient that does not evaporate as readily as ammonia, so that there is very little odor associated with their use.
Ammonia-free
What are the most common reducing agents used in permanent waving?
Thioglycolic acids
In the croquignole method of wrapping, the hair is wound from the _____ in overlapping concentric layers.
ends to the scalp
All perm wraps begin by sectioning the hair into _____.
panels
What perm rods are equal in diameter along their entire length or curling area?
Straight rods
Waves that are activated from an outside heat source, such as a conventional hood-type hair dryer, are _____ waves.
endothermic
It is important for stylists to remember that ammonia-free does not necessarily mean _____.
damage-free
The _____ uses one end paper folded in half over the hair ends like an envelope.
bookend wrap
Chemical services should not be performed if the scalp analysis shows any signs of _____.
abrasions
What is the second factor in the overall strength of the waving solution?
Degree of alkalinity
What is the most common neutralizer?
Hydrogen peroxide
_____ is a two-step process in which the hair first undergoes a physical change caused by wrapping the hair on perm rods, and then a chemical change caused by the application of permanent waving solution and neutralizer.
Permanent waving
What are long, coiled polypeptide chains linked together end-to-end like beads?
Keratin proteins
Overprocessed hair that is further processed will become _____ and cause further damage, including breakage.
straighter
Exothermic waves create a chemical reaction that heats the waving solution and speeds up _____.
processing
The _____ of the permanent waving solution is determined primarily by the concentration of the reducing agent, or thio.
strength
Modern acid waves are actually _____ waves, which are permanent waves that have a 7.0 or neutral pH.
acid-balanced
Hydrogen bonds are weak physical side bonds that result from an attraction between negative and positive electrical charges and are easily broken by water or heat, but reform as the hair is _____.
dried
The _____ is a perm wrap in which one end paper is placed under and another is placed over the strand of hair being wrapped, providing the most control over the hair ends.
double flat wrap
The _____, also known as straight set wrap, is a wrapping pattern in which all the rods within a panel move in the same direction and are positioned on equal-sized bases.
basic permanent wrap
What waving solutions use an ingredient other than ATG, such as cysteamine or mercaptamine, as the primary reducing agent?
Thio-free
What determines the size of the curl in a permanent waving process?
The size of the rod
In permanent waving, panels of hair are divided into smaller subsections called _____.
base sections
Which compounds are made up of carbon, oxygen, hydrogen, nitrogen, and sulfur?
Amino acids
Most alkaline permanent waves have a pH between _____.
9.0 and 9.6
Caution should be used with on-base rod placement to avoid additional _____.
stress and tension on hair
Which wrap utilizes partings and bases throughout the panels to follow the curvature of the head?
Curvature permanent wrap
_____ minimizes stress and tension on the hair.
Half off-base placement
The _____ measures the acidity and alkalinity of a substance by measuring the quantity of hydrogen ions it contains.
pH scale
The cortex of the hair is made up of millions of polypeptide chains cross-linked by three types of side bonds that are responsible for the elasticity and strength of the hair. These bonds are _____.
disulfide, salt, and hydrogen
What are the basic building blocks of hair that affect how chemical solutions react?
Amino acids, peptide bonds, polypeptide chains, keratin proteins, and side bonds
_____ give you the ability to permanently change the hair’s natural wave and curl pattern, thereby offering clients a variety of styling options that would not otherwise be possible.
Chemical texture services
What tough exterior layer of the hair has the purpose of surrounding the inner layers and protecting the hair from damage?
Cuticle
Which layer of hair is the innermost layer of the hair, and often called the pith or core of the hair?
Medulla
Which chemical bonds, also known as end bonds, join amino acids together, end-to-end in long chains, to form a polypeptide chain?
Peptide bonds
What soft foam perm rods are usually about 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod?
Soft bender rods
The term pH is an abbreviation used for potential _____, and the symbol pH represents the quantity of _____ ions in solution.
hydrogen; hydrogen
_____, often found in home haircoloring products, leave a coating on the hair that may cause uneven curls, severe discoloration, or hair breakage.
Metallic salts
What is the most common type of perm rod?
Concave rods
Which layer of the hair is located directly beneath the cuticle layer and is responsible for the incredible strength and elasticity of human hair?
Cortex
A combination of a thio relaxer and a thio permanent wrapped on large rods is a _____.
soft curl permanent
In the restructuring process, coarse, resistant hair with a strong compact cuticle requires a chemical solution that is _____.
highly alkaline
Keratin straightening treatments work by _____ in a semi-permanent manner.
fixing the keratin in place
Once in the cortex, the waving solution breaks the disulfide bonds through a chemical reaction called _____.
reduction
_____, also known as circle rods, are usually about 12 inches (30.5 centimeters) long with a uniform diameter along the entire length of the rod, and are secured by fastening the ends together to form a loop.
Loop rods
_____ waves are permanent solutions based on sulfites, considered very weak, and are usually marketed as body waves or alternative waves.
Low-pH
Strongest side bond. Broken only chemically.
Disulfide bonds
