Chapter 13 - Skin Care Products Flashcards
AHA’s
Acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin; mild acids: glycol, lactic, malice, and tartaric acid. AHAs exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Acids also stimulate cell renewal.
Alcohol
Antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents. SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol.
Algae
Derived from minerals and phytohormones; remineralizes and revitalizes the skin.
Allantoin
An anti-inflammatory compound isolated from the herb comfrey; it is used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion. aftershave, and other skin-smoothing cosmetics for its ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissues.
Aloe Vera
Most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations; emollient and film-forming gum resin with hydrating, softening, healing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.
Alpha Lipoic Acid
A natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in oil and water.
Alum
Compound made of aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action.
Ampoules
Small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base.
Anhydrous
Describes products that do not contain any water.
Aromatherapy
Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service.
Astringents
Liquids that help remove excess oil from the skin.
Azulene
Derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.
Benzyl Peroxide
Drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne.
Beta-glucans
Ingredients used in anti aging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen.
BHAs
Exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than AHAs. BHAs dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin.
Binders
Substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together.
Botanicals
Ingredients derived from plants
Calendula
Anti-inflammatory plant extract
Carbomers
Ingredients used to thicken creams; frequently used in gel products.
Carrot
Rich in Vitamin A, commonly derived from seeds and as an oil; also used as product colorant.
Certified Colors
Inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug & cosmetic)
Chamomile
Plant extract with calming and sooting properties.
Chelating Agent
Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue,” that holds them together (desmosomes).
Clay Masks
Oil-absorbing cleansing masks that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten.
Cleansers
Soaps & detergents that clean the skin.
Coenzyme 10
Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes the skin cells
Colorants
Substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color.
Comedogenicity
Tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo (blackhead).
Cosmeceuticals
Product intended to improve the skin’s health and appearance.
Cosmetics
As defined by the FDA: articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance.
Delivery Systems
Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis.
Detergents
Type of surfactant used as cleansers in skin-cleansing products.
DMAE
Dimethylaminoethanol; antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes and boosts the effect of other antioxidants.
Echinacea
Derivative of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support the immune system.
Emollients
Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize, and prevent water loss.
Emulsifiers
Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend.
Enzyme Peels
Enzyme products that dissolve keratin proteins (dead skin cells) and exfoliate the skin.
Essential Oils
Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche.
Exfoliants
Mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin.
Exfoliation
Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin.
Fatty Acids
Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats.
Fatty Alcohols
Emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen.
Fatty Esters
Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols.
Fragrances
Give products their scent.
Fresheners
Skin-freshening lotions with a low alcohol content.
Functional Ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as lotion, cream, or gel. Preservatives are also functional ingredients.
Glycerin
Formed by a decomposition of oils or fats; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binders; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams.
Glycoproteins
Skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing.
Gommage
Also known as roll-off mask; exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin.
Grapeseed Extract
Powerful antioxidant with soothing properties.
Green Tea
Powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and a stimulant.
Healing Agents
Substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin.
Herbs
Hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe, and moisturize.
Horsechesnut
Extract containing bioflavonoids; also known as Vitamin P. Helps strengthen capillary walls; used for couperose areas of telangiectasia.
Humectants
Ingredients that attract water. Humectants draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness.
Hydrators
Ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface.
Hydrophilic Agents
Ingredients that attract water the skin’s surface.
Jojoba
Oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean-like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricants and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer.
Keratolytic
Agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing of skin cells.
Kojic Acid
Skin-brightening agent.
Lakes
Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material.
Lanolin
Emollient with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water-absorption capabilities.
Lavender
Antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing & healing.
Licorice
Anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation.
Lipids
Fats or fat-like substance; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin.
Liposomes
Closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release.
Lubricants
Coat the skin and reduce friction; mineral oil is a lubricant.
Mask
AKA pack or masques; concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate and nourish and treat the skin.
Mechanical Exfoliation
Physical method of rubbing dead cells off of the skin.
Methlparaben
One of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic.
Mineral Oil
Lubricant derived from petroleum.
Modelage Masks
AKA thermal masks; thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient.
Moisturizers
Products formulated to add moisture to the skin.
Noncertified Colors
Colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments.
Oil Soluble
Compatible with oil.
Olfactory System
Gives us our sense of smell, which is the strongest of the five senses.
Papaya
Natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels.
Parabens
One of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms.
Paraffin Wax Masks
Mask used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin.
Peptides
Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skin’s firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides.
Performance Ingredients
Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin.
Petroleum Jelly
Occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water; used after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing.
pH Adjusters
Acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products.
Phytotherapy
Use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits.
Polyglucans
Ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate metabolism; also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin.
Polymers
Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain-like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin’s surface at a microscopically controlled rate.
Potassium Hydroxide
Strong alkali used in soaps and creams.
Preservatives
Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations. These kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling.
Propylene Glycol
Humectant often used in dry- or sensitive-skin moisturizers.
Quaternium 15
All-purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and yeast. It is probably the greatest formaldehyde-releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies.
Retinol
Natural form of Vitamin A; stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells.
Rose
Credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties; found in the forms of rose extracts, oil, or water.
Salicylic Acid
Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen.
Seaweed
Seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness.
Serums
Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions.
Silicones
Oil that is chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin.
Sodium Bicarbonate
Baking soda; an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizers, and a pH adjuster.
Sorbitol
Humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness.
Sphingolipids
Ceramides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix. Glycosphingollpids and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier layer.
Squalane
Derived from olives; desensitizes and nourishes; an emollient.
Squalene
Originally from shark liver oil; also occurs in small amounts in olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil; also found in human sebum. A lubricant and perfume fixative.
Stem Cells
Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own stem cells; for health and anti aging benefits.
Sulfur
Sulfur reduces oil-gland activity and dissolves the skin’s surface layer of dry, dead cells. This ingredient is commonly used in acne products.
Sun Protection Factor
SPF; ability of a product to delay sun-induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. The SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure.
Tea Tree
Soothing & antiseptic; antifungal properties.
Tissue Respiratory Factor
TRF; ingredient derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti-inflammatory & moisturizing ingredient.
Titanium Dioxide
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation.
Toners
AKA fresheners or astringents; liquids designed to tone & tighten the skin’s surface.
Urea
Properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin’s surface and helps maintain healthy skin.
Vehicles
Spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective.
Water Soluble
Mixable with water.
Witch Hazel
Extracted from the bark of the hamanelis shrub; can be a soothing agent or, in higher concentrations, an astringent.
Zinc Oxide
Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation. Also used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial.
