Chapter 13 - Skin Care Products Flashcards

1
Q

AHA’s

A

Acids derived from plants (mostly fruit) that are often used to exfoliate the skin; mild acids: glycol, lactic, malice, and tartaric acid. AHAs exfoliate by loosening the bonds between dead corneum cells and dissolve the intercellular matrix. Acids also stimulate cell renewal.

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2
Q

Alcohol

A

Antiseptic and solvent used in perfumes, lotions, and astringents. SD alcohol is a special denatured ethyl alcohol.

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3
Q

Algae

A

Derived from minerals and phytohormones; remineralizes and revitalizes the skin.

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4
Q

Allantoin

A

An anti-inflammatory compound isolated from the herb comfrey; it is used in creams, hand lotion, hair lotion. aftershave, and other skin-smoothing cosmetics for its ability to heal wounds and skin ulcers and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissues.

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5
Q

Aloe Vera

A

Most popular botanical used in cosmetic formulations; emollient and film-forming gum resin with hydrating, softening, healing, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.

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6
Q

Alpha Lipoic Acid

A

A natural molecule found in every cell in the body; it is a powerful antioxidant and is soluble in oil and water.

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7
Q

Alum

A

Compound made of aluminum, potassium, or ammonium sulfate with strong astringent action.

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8
Q

Ampoules

A

Small, sealed vials containing a single application of highly concentrated extracts in a water or oil base.

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9
Q

Anhydrous

A

Describes products that do not contain any water.

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10
Q

Aromatherapy

A

Therapeutic use of plant aromas and essential oils for beauty and health treatment purposes; involves the use of highly concentrated, nonoily, and volatile essential oils to induce such reactions as relaxation and invigoration, or to simply create a pleasant fragrance during a service.

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11
Q

Astringents

A

Liquids that help remove excess oil from the skin.

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12
Q

Azulene

A

Derived from the chamomile plant and characterized by its deep blue color; has anti-inflammatory and soothing properties.

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13
Q

Benzyl Peroxide

A

Drying ingredient with antibacterial properties commonly used for blemishes and acne.

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14
Q

Beta-glucans

A

Ingredients used in anti aging cosmetics to help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating the formation of collagen.

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15
Q

BHAs

A

Exfoliating organic acid; salicylic acid; milder than AHAs. BHAs dissolve oil and are beneficial for oily skin.

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16
Q

Binders

A

Substances such as glycerin that bind, or hold, products together.

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17
Q

Botanicals

A

Ingredients derived from plants

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18
Q

Calendula

A

Anti-inflammatory plant extract

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19
Q

Carbomers

A

Ingredients used to thicken creams; frequently used in gel products.

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20
Q

Carrot

A

Rich in Vitamin A, commonly derived from seeds and as an oil; also used as product colorant.

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21
Q

Certified Colors

A

Inorganic color agents also known as metal salts; listed on ingredient labels as D&C (drug & cosmetic)

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22
Q

Chamomile

A

Plant extract with calming and sooting properties.

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23
Q

Chelating Agent

A

Chemical agent that dissolves dead skin cells and the intercellular matrix, or “glue,” that holds them together (desmosomes).

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24
Q

Clay Masks

A

Oil-absorbing cleansing masks that draw impurities to the surface of the skin as they dry and tighten.

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25
Q

Cleansers

A

Soaps & detergents that clean the skin.

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26
Q

Coenzyme 10

A

Powerful antioxidant that protects and revitalizes the skin cells

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27
Q

Colorants

A

Substances such as vegetable, pigment, or mineral dyes that give products color.

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28
Q

Comedogenicity

A

Tendency of any topical substance to cause or to worsen a buildup in the follicle, leading to the development of a comedo (blackhead).

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29
Q

Cosmeceuticals

A

Product intended to improve the skin’s health and appearance.

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30
Q

Cosmetics

A

As defined by the FDA: articles that are intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled or otherwise applied to the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance.

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31
Q

Delivery Systems

A

Systems that deliver ingredients to specific tissues of the epidermis.

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32
Q

Detergents

A

Type of surfactant used as cleansers in skin-cleansing products.

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33
Q

DMAE

A

Dimethylaminoethanol; antioxidant that stabilizes cell membranes and boosts the effect of other antioxidants.

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34
Q

Echinacea

A

Derivative of the purple coneflower; prevents infection and has healing properties; used internally to support the immune system.

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35
Q

Emollients

A

Oil or fatty ingredients that lubricate, moisturize, and prevent water loss.

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36
Q

Emulsifiers

A

Surfactants that cause oil and water to mix and form an emulsion; an ingredient that brings two normally incompatible materials together and binds them into a uniform and fairly stable blend.

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37
Q

Enzyme Peels

A

Enzyme products that dissolve keratin proteins (dead skin cells) and exfoliate the skin.

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38
Q

Essential Oils

A

Oils derived from herbs; have many different properties and effects on the skin and psyche.

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39
Q

Exfoliants

A

Mechanical and chemical products or processes used to exfoliate the skin.

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40
Q

Exfoliation

A

Peeling or sloughing of the outer layer of skin.

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41
Q

Fatty Acids

A

Emollients; lubricant ingredients derived from plant oils or animal fats.

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42
Q

Fatty Alcohols

A

Emollients; fatty acids that have been exposed to hydrogen.

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43
Q

Fatty Esters

A

Emollients produced from fatty acids and alcohols.

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44
Q

Fragrances

A

Give products their scent.

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45
Q

Fresheners

A

Skin-freshening lotions with a low alcohol content.

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46
Q

Functional Ingredients

A

Ingredients in cosmetic products that allow the products to spread, give them body and texture, and give them a specific form such as lotion, cream, or gel. Preservatives are also functional ingredients.

47
Q

Glycerin

A

Formed by a decomposition of oils or fats; excellent skin softener and humectant; very strong water binders; sweet, colorless, oily substance used as a solvent and as a moisturizer in skin and body creams.

48
Q

Glycoproteins

A

Skin-conditioning agents derived from carbohydrates and proteins that enhance cellular metabolism and wound healing.

49
Q

Gommage

A

Also known as roll-off mask; exfoliating creams that are rubbed off the skin.

50
Q

Grapeseed Extract

A

Powerful antioxidant with soothing properties.

51
Q

Green Tea

A

Powerful antioxidant and soothing agent; antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and a stimulant.

52
Q

Healing Agents

A

Substances such as chamomile or aloe that help to heal the skin.

53
Q

Herbs

A

Hundreds of different herbs that contain phytohormones are used in skin care products and cosmetics; they heal, stimulate, soothe, and moisturize.

54
Q

Horsechesnut

A

Extract containing bioflavonoids; also known as Vitamin P. Helps strengthen capillary walls; used for couperose areas of telangiectasia.

55
Q

Humectants

A

Ingredients that attract water. Humectants draw moisture to the skin and soften its surface, diminishing lines caused by dryness.

56
Q

Hydrators

A

Ingredients that attract water to the skin’s surface.

57
Q

Hydrophilic Agents

A

Ingredients that attract water the skin’s surface.

58
Q

Jojoba

A

Oil widely used in cosmetics; extracted from the bean-like seeds of the desert shrub. Used as a lubricants and noncomedogenic emollient and moisturizer.

59
Q

Keratolytic

A

Agent that causes exfoliation, or sloughing of skin cells.

60
Q

Kojic Acid

A

Skin-brightening agent.

61
Q

Lakes

A

Insoluble pigments made by combining a dye with an inorganic material.

62
Q

Lanolin

A

Emollient with moisturizing properties; also an emulsifier with high water-absorption capabilities.

63
Q

Lavender

A

Antiallergenic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, antibacterial, balancing, energizing, soothing & healing.

64
Q

Licorice

A

Anti-irritant used for sensitive skin; helps lighten pigmentation.

65
Q

Lipids

A

Fats or fat-like substance; lipids help repair and protect the barrier function of the skin.

66
Q

Liposomes

A

Closed-lipid bilayer spheres that encapsulate ingredients, target their delivery to specific tissues of the skin, and control their release.

67
Q

Lubricants

A

Coat the skin and reduce friction; mineral oil is a lubricant.

68
Q

Mask

A

AKA pack or masques; concentrated treatment products often composed of herbs, vitamins, mineral clays, moisturizing agents, skin softeners, aromatherapy oils, beneficial extracts, and other beneficial ingredients to cleanse, exfoliate, tighten, tone, hydrate and nourish and treat the skin.

69
Q

Mechanical Exfoliation

A

Physical method of rubbing dead cells off of the skin.

70
Q

Methlparaben

A

One of the most frequently used preservatives because of its very low sensitizing potential; combats bacteria and molds; noncomedogenic.

71
Q

Mineral Oil

A

Lubricant derived from petroleum.

72
Q

Modelage Masks

A

AKA thermal masks; thermal heat masks; facial masks containing special crystals of gypsum, a plaster-like ingredient.

73
Q

Moisturizers

A

Products formulated to add moisture to the skin.

74
Q

Noncertified Colors

A

Colors that are organic, meaning they come from animal or plant extracts; they can also be natural mineral pigments.

75
Q

Oil Soluble

A

Compatible with oil.

76
Q

Olfactory System

A

Gives us our sense of smell, which is the strongest of the five senses.

77
Q

Papaya

A

Natural enzyme used for exfoliation and in enzyme peels.

78
Q

Parabens

A

One of the most commonly used groups of preservatives in the cosmetic, pharmaceutical, and food industries; provide bacteriostatic and fungistatic activity against a diverse number of organisms.

79
Q

Paraffin Wax Masks

A

Mask used to warm the skin and promote penetration of ingredients through the heat trapped under the surface of the paraffin.

80
Q

Peptides

A

Chains of amino acids that stimulate fibroblasts, cell metabolism, collagen, and improve skin’s firmness. Larger chains are called polypeptides.

81
Q

Performance Ingredients

A

Ingredients in cosmetic products that cause the actual changes in the appearance of the skin.

82
Q

Petroleum Jelly

A

Occlusive agent that restores the barrier layer by holding in water; used after laser surgery to protect the skin while healing.

83
Q

pH Adjusters

A

Acids or alkalis (bases) used to adjust the pH of products.

84
Q

Phytotherapy

A

Use of plant extracts for therapeutic benefits.

85
Q

Polyglucans

A

Ingredients derived from yeast cells that help strengthen the immune system and stimulate metabolism; also hydrophilic and help preserve and protect collagen and elastin.

86
Q

Polymers

A

Chemical compounds formed by combining a number of small molecules (monomers) into long chain-like structures; advanced vehicles that release substances onto the skin’s surface at a microscopically controlled rate.

87
Q

Potassium Hydroxide

A

Strong alkali used in soaps and creams.

88
Q

Preservatives

A

Chemical agents that inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic formulations. These kill bacteria and prevent products from spoiling.

89
Q

Propylene Glycol

A

Humectant often used in dry- or sensitive-skin moisturizers.

90
Q

Quaternium 15

A

All-purpose preservative active against bacteria, mold, and yeast. It is probably the greatest formaldehyde-releaser among cosmetic preservatives; may cause dermatitis and allergies.

91
Q

Retinol

A

Natural form of Vitamin A; stimulates cell repair and helps to normalize skin cells by generating new cells.

92
Q

Rose

A

Credited with moisturizing, astringent, tonic, and deodorant properties; found in the forms of rose extracts, oil, or water.

93
Q

Salicylic Acid

A

Beta hydroxy acid with exfoliating and antiseptic properties; natural sources include sweet birch, willow bark, and wintergreen.

94
Q

Seaweed

A

Seaweed derivatives such as algae have many nourishing properties; known for its humectant and moisturizing properties, vitamin content, metabolism stimulation and detoxification, and aiding skin firmness.

95
Q

Serums

A

Concentrated liquid ingredients for the skin designed to penetrate and treat various skin conditions.

96
Q

Silicones

A

Oil that is chemically combined with silicon and oxygen and leaves a noncomedogenic protective film on the surface of the skin.

97
Q

Sodium Bicarbonate

A

Baking soda; an alkaline inorganic salt used as a buffering agent, neutralizers, and a pH adjuster.

98
Q

Sorbitol

A

Humectant that absorbs moisture from the air to prevent skin dryness.

99
Q

Sphingolipids

A

Ceramides, or lipid material, that are a natural part of the intercellular matrix. Glycosphingollpids and phospholipids are also natural lipids found in the barrier layer.

100
Q

Squalane

A

Derived from olives; desensitizes and nourishes; an emollient.

101
Q

Squalene

A

Originally from shark liver oil; also occurs in small amounts in olive oil, wheat germ oil, and rice bran oil; also found in human sebum. A lubricant and perfume fixative.

102
Q

Stem Cells

A

Derived from plants to protect or stimulate our own stem cells; for health and anti aging benefits.

103
Q

Sulfur

A

Sulfur reduces oil-gland activity and dissolves the skin’s surface layer of dry, dead cells. This ingredient is commonly used in acne products.

104
Q

Sun Protection Factor

A

SPF; ability of a product to delay sun-induced erythema, the visible sign of sun damage. The SPF rating is based only on UVB protection, not UVA exposure.

105
Q

Tea Tree

A

Soothing & antiseptic; antifungal properties.

106
Q

Tissue Respiratory Factor

A

TRF; ingredient derived from yeast cells that functions as an anti-inflammatory & moisturizing ingredient.

107
Q

Titanium Dioxide

A

Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UV radiation.

108
Q

Toners

A

AKA fresheners or astringents; liquids designed to tone & tighten the skin’s surface.

109
Q

Urea

A

Properties include enhancing the penetration abilities of other substances; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and deodorizing action that protects the skin’s surface and helps maintain healthy skin.

110
Q

Vehicles

A

Spreading agents and ingredients that carry or deliver other ingredients into the skin and make them more effective.

111
Q

Water Soluble

A

Mixable with water.

112
Q

Witch Hazel

A

Extracted from the bark of the hamanelis shrub; can be a soothing agent or, in higher concentrations, an astringent.

113
Q

Zinc Oxide

A

Inorganic physical sunscreen that reflects UVA radiation. Also used to protect, soothe, and heal the skin; is somewhat astringent, antiseptic, and antibacterial.