Burgundy Flashcards
The Cistercians
Founded Clos De Vougeot, fully enclosed in 1336. They also plotted all along Côte d’Or and also introduced the Cru system
Aubert De Villaine
1940-
French co- owner and co- director of Domaine de La Romanee- Conti
Climate- Burgundy
Continental- Summer is hot, winter is cold
Beaune
Central hub of burgundy and burgundy business hub
Dukes of Burgundy
Ruling religions had a lot of say about winemaking
Clos de Vougeot was created by……
14th Century monks created the vineyard
Phillip the Bold…..
Banned importation from other v/ yards and ordered Gamay to be torn out.
Gamay can be produced in Chardonnay, but not in ____________ itself
Gamay
Burgundy uses new oak…….
(Much like Bordeaux)- but less and less
Climate Change- Burgundy
More riper grapes, different to 20- 30 yrs ago. It has been positive so far, but might be quite bad in future.
1855 Lavalle Classification of the Côte d’Or
In his Histoire et Statistique de la vigne et des grands vins de la Côte d’Or Dr. Jules Lavalle creates classifications for vineyards in each commune of the Côte d’Or, and he also suggests a single classification for the entire region. The two classifications do not align exactly; we have elected to use the latter. Order, spelling and hyphenation are as they appear in the book.
Hors Ligne: Tête de Cuvée #1- 1855 Lavalle Classification of the Côte d’Or (Red Wines)
Vosne: Romanée-Conti Gevrey: Chambertin, Clos-de-Bèze Vougeot: Clos de Vougeot followed by... Morey: Clos-de-Tart, Bonnes-Mares (part), Lambrays (part) Aloxe: Corton (part) Chambolle: Musigny Vosne: Richebourg, Tâche, Romanée-Saint-Vivant (part) Nuits: Saint-Georges
Hors Ligne: Tête de Cuvée #2- 1855 Lavalle Classification of the Côte d’Or (Red Wines)
Vosne: Beaux-Monts Nuits: Boudots, Cailles, Cras, Murgers, Porrets, Pruliers, Thorey, Vaucrains Volnay: Caillerets, Champans Puligny: Clavoillon Chassagne: Clos-Morgeot Gevrey: Clos-Saint-Jacques, Mazy, Varoilles Chassagne: Clos-Saint-Jean, Clos-Pitois Santenay: Clos-Tavannes, Noyer-Bart Aloxe: Corton (part) Premeaux: Corvées, Didiers, Fôrets Flagey: Echézeaux Beaune: Fèves, Grèves Fixin: Perrières Vosne: Romanée-Saint-Vivant (part) Meursault: Santenot
Hors Ligne- 1855 Lavalle Classification of the Côte d’Or (White Wines)
Puligny: Montrachet
Première Cuvée- 1855 Lavalle Classification of the Côte d’Or (White Wines)
Puligny: Bâtard-Montrachet Meursault: Perrières Aloxe: Corton followed by... Meursault: Charmes, Combettes, Genevrières, Goutte-d'Or Pernant: Charlemagne
Premier Cru
Is a cru judged of the first rank, usually according to some official classification. The direct translation of the French term premier cru, much used in the context of bordeaux, is first growth. A premier grand cru (classé) or premier cru supérieur may, as in the case of st-émilion and Ch d’yquem, be a rung higher even than this. In Burgundy, scores of vineyards are designated premiers crus, capable of producing wine distinctly superior to village wine but not quite so great as the produce of the grands crus. See burgundy in general and each of the villages on the côte d’or in particular.
Grand Cru
Means literally ‘great growth’ in French. In Burgundy’s côte d’or a grand cru is one of 34 particularly favoured vineyards (see burgundy for list), a decided notch above premier cru. In chablis and alsace, grand cru is a separate, elevated aoc accorded to specific vineyards listed in the relevant entries. In Bordeaux, the words grand cru usually apply to a specific property or château and depend on the region in which it is located (see classification)
Cru
French specialist term for a vineyard, usually reserved for those officially recognized as of superior quality. Such recognition was already known in Ancient rome. In English the word is often translated as ‘growth’. premiers crus, for example, are called first growths in bordeaux, according to one of their official classifications. A cru that has been ‘classified’ is a cru classé, or classed growth. grands crus can also have a very specific meaning, notably in burgundy and alsace. The top-ranked communes in beaujolais are called crus, and their produce is Cru Beaujolais. In switzerland, the first two vineyards to be officially awarded cru status were the neighbouring Dézaley and Calamin in Vaud. The term has been enthusiastically adopted in Italy, where there have been some attempts to define various superior vineyards as crus. The local dialect for such a site in piemonte is sorì.
Monopole
Burgundian term for wholly owned vineyard or climat.
Chalk
A soft and crumbly, highly porous (35 to 40%) type of pure white limestone and a word often used erroneously as synonymous with it. Chalk-derived soils are valued in viticulture for their excellent drainage, combined with a capacity of the subsoil to store substantial amounts of water. Because vine roots can usually penetrate to chalk bedrock, continuity of moisture supply is assured regardless of short-term fluctuations in rainfall. Pure chalk is of low fertility, resulting in a rather low vine vigour and naturally good canopy microclimate. True chalk is much less common under vineyards than most wine books suggest, chiefly because calcarcous (calcaire in French) has been taken to mean chalky. Apart from some vineyards in southern england, the principal wine region with chalk is champagne. Even here, the better vineyards are mostly on clays, with only the longer roots reaching the underlying chalk. It is also widely believed that the sherry region around Jerez in south west Spain is on chalk, although the bedrock is not even pure limestone. The fact that Jerez, Cognac, and Champagne produce more or less exclusively white wines is one of the bases for the widely held misapprehension that there is a correlation between wine colour and soil colour.
Limestone
A rock made of the mineral calcite (calcium carbonate); dolomitic limestone or dolomite is a mixture of calcium-magnesium carbonate. Limestone is calcaire in French. Common limestones differ from chalk (a soft form of limestone) in being hard and not readily penetrated by plant roots, except through cracks. Unless mineral material is brought in by wind or water, the depth of soil formed on limestone depends on the impurities (clay, silt, and sand) in the limestone because the dissolution of calcite produces only calcium and bicarbonate ions. Some limestone soils, such as the Mediterranean terra rossa, are red-brown in colour; these are moderately alkaline and have a good clay-loam texture and structure. Some limestone soils overlie substantial reservoirs of soil water, of high quality for irrigation. The longer roots of well-established vines may reach these reservoirs, if they are not too deep. Deep ripping to shatter the hard limestone may be carried out before planting, typically to 1 m (3 ft) depth, but any slabs of limestone brought to the surface may need to be removed. Limestone-derived soils are in general valued most highly in cool viticultural regions. The great wines of burgundy come from vines grown on the slopes of the côte d’or escarpment, where Jurassic limestone is the predominant rock but not the only type of limestone found there. The red limestone-derived terra rossa of Coonawarra in south australia similarly produces some of Australia’s best red wines from Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz, both vine varieties being close to the cool limit for their reliable ripening. In warm climates, however, such as in the south of France, and the Riverland of South Australia, limestone soils are not regarded as superior, or even necessarily as suitable for viticulture.
History- Burgundy
Vine growing started by the Celts and expanded under Roman rule. Great wines were produced under monasteries. 11th, 12th and 13th Centuries more white produced than red. 1370: First mention of Pinot Noir. Lack of access to rivers meant lack of transport. 18th and 19th Century opening of railways and better roads meant greater access. These were exploited by early negotiants (some still in business). French Revolution meant that the v/yards were divided into small parcels under the Napoleonic law of inheritance. This created confusion and difficulty for the consumer. Phylloxera almost wiped out the area as American rootstocks were banned until late 1800s. Only the best areas were initially planted with grafted vines.
1930s many co-ops were formed, meaning moves away from Negotiants and towards domaine bottling. Negotiants still play an important part, but many domaines are now forming their own Negotiants divisions.
Trade Structure- Burgundy
Fragmented due to the Napoleonic law of inheritance. Majority of wines are grower vilified, and then either domaine bottled (40% of total production) or sold to a negotiant. Negotiants need large quantities of wine each year to satisfy customers. They use brokers (courtiers) who know quantities and prices of wine for sale by being in close contact with the different growers as well as having their own vineyard holdings.
More growers choose to domaine bottle; wine available for the large negociants has decreased resulting in a price rise. Large rise in the number of single producers buying the wine from their neighbours as it is cheaper than purchasing land. In Chablis and Macon co- operative cellars feature largely. Small proportions of growers sell grapes, rather than wine, to the merchants.
Regional ACs- Burgundy
Make up 2/3s of production of the area. Often grapes grown in lesser vineyards or declassified wines, declassification can be due to excessive yields or a quantity producer who wants to keep only the best wine for the superior appellation. Come from anywhere in Burgundy (even parts of Beaujolais).
Ascending hierarchy:
Bourgogne Grand Ordinaire AC- mainly Gamay. Some white produced, blend of Melon de Bourgogne and Alight
Bourgogne Aligote AC- High acid, low alc. Chablis and some villages on the Cote d’ Or and the Cote Chalonnaise. The village of Bouzeron has its own appellation for Aligote.
Bourgogne Passetoutgrains AC- Literally ‘chuck it all together’. Blend of Pinot Noir (at least 30%) and Gamay.
Bourgogne Rouge AC, Bourgogne Blanc AC- Pinot Noir for red and chardonnay for white
Bourgogne Hautes- Cotes de Nuits AC and Haut- Cotes de Beaune AC- Red and white wine made from 18 villages situated in hills behind the Cote. Lighter in body and less concentrated than Cote de Nuits. Most made in the co- operative cellar in Beaune.
Bourgogne Cote Chalonnaise AC- covers Rully, Givry, Montagne, Mercurey and some surrounding v/yards. Each of these areas are also AC’s in their own right.
Macon- Villages and Macon + village name AC- see Maconnaise
Communal ACs- Burgundy
Do not include the word Bourgogne and are a step up from Regional ACs. Higher minimum alcohol level than regional wines.
- Chablis AC
- Macconaise communal appellations (Pouilly- Fuisse, St- Veran, Vire- Clesse, etc)
- Cote de Beaune- Villages and Cote de Nuit- Villages AC may be used by the communes in the Cote de Beaune (all villages except Aloxe- Corton, Beaune, Pommard and Volnay; wine must be red) and Cote de Nuits (very minor villages only; cane white). These ACs enable blending between villages to produce a larger volume blend that is better than the individual components.
Commune ACs- Burgundy
Village appellations. Under a quarter of total production. Usually just village name stated. If total production codes from one vineyard that does not hold Premier- or Grand- Cru AC status, the v/yard can be named in smaller lettering after the Commune.
Single V/yard ACs- Premier and Grand Cru
Vineyard name attached to a plot of land, registered in the town hall nearest the v/yard. Each Grand Cru vineyard has its own AC. There are 33 in total, 32 in the Cote d’ Or, 1 in Chablis. No more than 1% of the total production in Burgundy.
Premier Cru sites do not have their own ACs, they are denominations of appellations.
Premier Cru- Burgundy
Sites with greater potential to produce long lasting wine than village sites. Over 560 premier cru vineyards, 11% of total production. Premier Cru status almost always shown by Premier Cru written on label (A decreasing number of producers indicate premier cru status by stating the village and vineyard in the same size writing, in contrast to an unclassified lieu- dit, where the v/yardwould be named in smaller letters). Premier crus can be blended from a number of premier cru v/yard sites, sold with a label stating the village premier cru.
Grand Cru- Burgundy
Sites with the greatest overall quality potential. No more than 1% of the total production in Burgundy. V/yard name stands alone on label.
Many v/yard and communes with similar names e.g. Chambertin (Grand cru v/yard) and Gevry- Chambertin (commune). Mayors in the early 20th century joined the name of the finest v/yard (usually a Grand Cru) onto the name of the village to sell more of the simple village wine. One grand cru site in Chablis, spread over several adjustment v/yards.
Burgundy- Location
Central Eastern France, vineyards extending south of Dijon. Chablis region in the North, lies just south of the Central Vineyard area of the Loire.
Burgundy- Climate
Northern Continental climate with severe winters and short warm summers. Annual rainfall is relatively low; however it fails frequently at vintage causing grey rot. Spring frosts and summer hailstorms are a problem, especially in Chablis. The Massif Central protects many of the vineyards from even higher levels of rain.
Burgundy- Soils
Terror important in Burgundy; factors such as the steepness and direction of slope, depth, drainage, heat retention and mineral content of the soil all influence the resulting wine.
2 main soil types:
Calcareous; clay soils; Chardonnay mainly planted.
Limestone and Marl mainly Pinot Noir.
Best sites are mid slope; shallow soils force the roots to penetrate into the limestone base. The mid slope position also acts as a sun trap.
Burgundy- Viticulture
Dense plantings (up to 12000 vines per hectare). Guyot system training along low vires. Climatic problems include winter freezing, spring frost and summer hail. Pest and disease problems to contend with include red spider mite, fan leaf virus (Chardonnay prone) and grey rot (Pinot Noir prone).
Burgundy- Vinification
Cellars usually heated to prevent stuck ferments in cool autumns and cool winters.
Red Fermentation- Cold soaking before fermentation widely used in Cote d’ Or. Punching down or pumping over in open fermenters used in the Cote d’ Or and the Cote Chalonnaise. Total destemming is common, but some producers use partial inclusion of stems during fermentation to provide tannins and aid draining through the cap. Barrel ageing for 16- 18 months is common. Only a proportion of the wine is aged in new oak.
White Fermentation- Depends on the style wanted or region of production. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel vat or oak barrel, at different temperatures. MLF can be encouraged if a soft, creamy style is required. Barrel ageing may or may not occur.
Pinot Noir- Burgundy
Classic black grape of Burgundy. Grown throughout the region except in Beaujolais. Mutates easily, producing clones with different yields, ripening times, different flavours and different quality potential. Grows in small, tight clusters of grapes prone to grey rot. Young pinot noir show red fruits (strawberry, cherry, raspberry) developing vegetal, savoury and gamey notes as it matures. Medium to full bodied with soft tannins.
Chardonnay- Burgundy
Classic white grape of Burgundy. Non- aromatic ripe fruit works well with fermentation techniques such as barrel ageing and lees stirring, resulting wine showing rich, creamy/ buttery characteristics. Chardonnay produces a lean, mineral and high acid wine in Chablis, complex and expressive in the Cote d’ Or and full bodied, rich and ripe Macon.
Aligote- Burgundy
For Bourgogne Aligote and Cremant de Bourgogne. Tends to produce, thin, high- acid wines.
Burgundy Minor Grapes….
Minor white grapes include pinot blanc, pinot gris (locally known as Pinot Beurot), Melon de Bourgogne (Muscadet), Sacy and Sauvignon Blanc.
Minor Red Grapes are Gamay (used in Passetoutgrains and Grand Ordinaries, Cesar and Tressot
Domaine
French word for an estate, typically a vine-growing and winemaking estate in burgundy.
Boisset
Burgundy’s largest wine producer and one of the world’s largest family-owned producers of good quality wine, with wineries in Burgundy, Beaujolais, the Rhône Valley, the south of France, and in California’s Napa Valley, Russian River Valley, Sonoma Valley, and Monterey. It was formed as recently as 1961 by Jean-Claude and Claudine Boisset when Jean-Claude was just 18. The early business was successful enough to acquire rival négociants Charles Viénot and Thomas-Bassot in 1982. The company was floated on the stock market in 1985 and took over Pierre Ponnelle, Morin Père et Fils, Jaffelin, and Bouchard Ainé during the next six years. In 1994 the company then diversified into sparkling wine production via such acquisitions as Varichon et Clerc and Charles de Fère while consolidating its Côte de Beaune holdings by buying Ropiteau Frères, followed in the late 1990s by the Cellier de Samsons and Mommessin in Beaujolais, J. Moreau in Chablis, Domaine Bernard (now Louis Bernard) in the Rhône, and the fruit liqueur business L’Héritier-Guyot. Further acquisitions in Beaujolais and the Languedoc, including Caroline de Beaulieu, followed. In 1998, Boisset formed its first overseas joint venture to build Le Clos Jordanne winery with vincor of Canada, now part of constellation. Others followed in 2003 with Pisano in Uruguay to form Progreso and Corpora in Chile to form Veranda. That same year the Boisset family regained full ownership of the company, now styled négociant-éleveur with a commitment to organic and biodynamic viticulture in its flagship 40-ha/99-acre vineyard holding Domaine de la Vougeraie. The term ‘viniculteur’ was coined to stress Boisset’s degree of control of quality in vineyards both owned and bought from. Having abandoned its joint ventures in Canada and South America, the company has determinedly expanded into California, building a Franco-American identity from 1992 with the acquisition of Lyeth Estate in the Alexander Valley. This was followed in 2003 by DeLoach in the Russian River Valley, Raymond in the Napa Valley in 2009, Sonoma’s Buena Vista (California’s first winery), and Monterey’s Lockwood Vineyards in 2011. Also in 2011, Skalli, based in Sète in the languedoc, joined what has come to be known as the Boisset Collection. Jean-Charles Boisset is married to Gina gallo.
Joseph Drouhin
One of the most respected grower-merchants in Burgundy. Founded in 1880, the firm is based above historic cellars in the city of Beaune, dating from the 13th century. Joseph’s son Maurice, who took over control of the firm in 1918, built up its reputation for quality and acquired a number of important vineyard holdings, starting with the Clos des Mouches. After the Second World War, exports of Joseph Drouhin wines increased considerably. Robert Drouhin took over control of the house in 1957 and made many significant vineyard acquisitions, particularly on the côte de nuits, including Musigny, Griotte-Chambertin, Bonnes Mares, and Grands Échezeaux. In 1968, an outpost in chablis was established so that, of all Beaune merchants, Drouhin is the best placed in this northerly region with holdings in several grands crus and premiers crus. In 2014 the firm’s (all organically cultivated) holdings totalled 78 ha/193 acres. The firm has also made and sold Marquis de Laguiche montrachet since 1947. The firm has its own nursery. At 12,500 plants per ha its vine density is one of the highest in Burgundy (where the average is 10,000). Drouhin was one of the first firms to investigate and embrace the fundamentals of modern winemaking, although many traditional techniques are also used. The clean, rigorous wines are never among Burgundy’s richest but are serious expressions of each appellation. Today the firm is run by Robert’s children Philippe, Véronique, Laurent, and Frédéric, who is manager. Somewhat ironically in view of Maurice’s stated aim that Joseph Drouhin should concentrate on burgundy exclusively, Robert Drouhin was the first Burgundian to make a significant investment in a wine region outside France. Domaine Drouhin Oregon, established in 1987, owns 150 ha in oregon and 1988 was its first commercial vintage of Pinot Noir, made from bought-in fruit. Domaine Drouhin Oregon is produced by Véronique. In 1994, the firm was acquired by its Japanese distributor Snobrand but the Drouhin family bought back the majority in 2003.
Louis Jadot
Merchant-grower based in beaune, dealing exclusively in Burgundy and owners of 68 ha/168 acres of vineyards in the côte d’or, 87 ha/214 acres in beaujolais, and 18 ha/44 acres in Fuissé in the mâconnais. The company has been owned by the Kopf family since 1985. Founded in 1859 by the eponymous Louis Jadot, the company was run from 1962 to 1992 by André Gagey, who joined the firm as an assistant in 1954. When Louis-Alain Jadot, last of the family line, died prematurely in 1968, Gagey was asked by the family to become general manager, and he has now been succeeded by his son Pierre-Henry. Jadot’s success has been very much due to the combined talents of André Gagey and winemaker Jacques Lardière. who retired in 2013 to be succeeded by François Barnier. Both red and white négociant wines, made from bought-in fruit, are thoroughly reliable, but the firm’s reputation is based on the high quality of its domaine wines. Jadot’s holdings have continued to increase, not least in Beaujolais, notably Ch des Jacques in the 1990s and Domaine Ferret in 2008. The company also manages and vinifies the Côte d’Or vineyards of Domaine Gagey and Domaine Duc de Magenta A large, beautiful, and flexible new winery was built on the Jadot premises in 1997 and another one in Givry in the Côte Chalonnaise in 2008 exclusively dedicated to the bourgogne appellation. Among the reds, the Côte de Beaune wines stand out, with the monopole Beaune, Clos des Ursules, being especially fine. The domaine whites are wines of concentration, class, and distinction. Never over-oaked, they are a clear expression of their terroir and wines such as their Puligny-Montrachet Les Folatières, Corton-Charlemagne, and Chevalier-Montrachet Les Demoiselles, are regularly among the best bottles of white burgundy to be had.
Louis Latour
One of Burgundy’s most commercially astute, and oldest, merchants. Jean Latour first planted vines in Aloxe-Corton, then called simply Aloxe, in 1768; his family had grown vines on the plain to the east of Beaune since the 16th century. Jean’s son was the first in a long line of Louis Latours and enlarged the domaine considerably and it was not until the late 19th century that the family added wine brokering to their vine-growing activities. With an eye to the developing export markets, the third Louis Latour bought the Lamarosse family’s négociant business in Beaune’s historic Rue des Tonneliers in 1867, and was so successful that in 1891 he was able to buy Ch Corton-Grancey in Aloxe-Corton, one of the earliest purpose-built, gravity-fed wineries in the world. With this acquisition came one of the most handsome, and most photographed, houses in the Côte d’Or, together with extensive winemaking premises, and some notable vineyards around the hill of Corton to add to the Latour family holdings, which already included some Chambertin; Romanée-St-Vivant, Les Quatre Journaux; and Chevalier-Montrachet, Les Demoiselles. (Today Domaine Louis Latour represents the largest single holding of Grand Cru vineyards on the côte d’or.) It was the third Louis Latour who is reputed to have realized the hill of Corton’s potential for great white wine when he replanted some of the hill now designated Corton-Charlemagne with Chardonnay vines after phylloxera had laid waste vineyards originally planted with Pinot Noir and Aligoté. Innovations of succeeding Louis Latours include a succession of ‘new’ and increasingly daring white wines. What was then known as Grand Pouilly, and subsequently became known as Pouilly-Fuissé, was introduced to the United States in the 1930s, immediately after the Repeal of prohibition. A wine known as mâcon-Lugny was introduced as a respectable alternative to Côte d’Or white wines in close co-operation with the Lugny co-operative. Louis Latour also pioneered the planting of Chardonnay vines in the relatively unknown ardèche in the early 1980s. The firm has 350 ha of vines under contract to local growers, whose produce is vinified at Latour’s winery in Alba. In the late 1980s, Louis Latour bought land in the Var département in provence, planting the Beurot selection of Pinot Noir to produce gentle red wines sold as Pinot Noir, Domaine de Valmoissine. Louis Latour acquired Chablis producer Simonnet-Febvre in 2003 and Beaujolais producer Henry Fessy in 2008. Continuing their development of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown in fringe areas, they more recently acquired land in the Terres Dorées in beaujolais and in Auxois midway between Chablis and Dijon. The house enjoys a solid reputation for its white wines, but has incited controversy over its continued endorsement of pasteurization of even its finest red wines. In 1997, they celebrated the bicentenary of the négociant business and the firm is currently run by the eleventh generation Louis-Fabrice Latour.
Leroy
Famous name in French wine, not just because Baron le Roy of châteauneuf-du-pape was instrumental in the development of the appellation contrôlée system, but also in the côte d’or. The négociant house Maison Leroy was founded in the small village of Auxey-Duresses in 1868 and its extensive warehouses there still house substantial stocks of fine, mature burgundy. Henri Leroy joined the family firm in 1919 and made his fortune exporting fortified wine from the Charentes to Germany between the two World Wars. This enabled him to buy a half share in the world-famous domaine de la romanée-conti (DRC), a share inherited equally by his two daughters Pauline Roch-Leroy and Lalou Bize-Leroy on his death in 1980. Lalou, a prodigious taster, rock climber, and glamorous dresser, had been co-director of the Domaine since 1974 and contributed considerably to its winemaking policy of quality above all. She also ran Maison Leroy, but Burgundy’s steady move towards domaine bottling made her job of buying the finest raw materials for her négociant skills of élevage increasingly difficult. In 1988, helped by an £8 million investment from her Japanese importers Takashimaya, she succeeded in buying the Domaine Noëllat of vosne-romanée, an already fine canvas on which to paint her vision of the perfect domaine, soon renamed Domaine Leroy. This domaine now comprises more than 22 ha/54 acres of some of the Côte d’Or’s finest vineyards, including a total of nearly 7 ha in nine different grands crus. This effectively entailed setting up in competition with DRC, since the Domaine Leroy is based in the same village and, like DRC, has holdings in the grand crus romanée-st-vivant and richebourg. Unfettered by the commercial considerations of the dozen or so shareholders in DRC, Lalou was able to institute fully biodynamic viticulture, almost uneconomically low yields, and to invest in every possible winemaking luxury. The wines, which come from a much broader range of (mainly red wine) appellations than those of DRC, are extremely concentrated, expressing as definitively as possible their exact geographical provenance, as well as considerable oak sometimes. Independently of her sister Pauline, Lalou owns the Domaine d’Auvenay, another biodynamically farmed enterprise founded in 1988, with total holdings of around 4 ha in 80 parcels, including small plots in five different grands crus. A sales company, Société Leroy, enjoyed the exclusive distribution rights to DRC wines, some of the most highly priced in the world, in all markets except the US and UK until a bitter dispute in 1992 which ousted Lalou from co-directorship of DRC. Today, only Domaine Leroy prices rival those of DRC. Lalou’s daughter Perrine Fenal is increasingly involved in the Domaine de la Romanée-Conti.
Hospices de Beaune
Charity auction which has taken place in beaune annually since 1851 on the third Sunday in November, a key feature of the Burgundian calendar. The beneficiaries are the combined charitable organizations of the Hôtel Dieu, founded in 1443 by Nicolas Rolin, chancellor of the duchy of Burgundy, and the Hôpital de la Charité. The produce of vineyard holdings donated by benefactors over the centuries is auctioned at prices usually well in excess of current commercial values. Nevertheless, the results serve as some indication of the trend in bulk wine prices for the new vintage. The cuvées sold are named to commemorate original benefactors such as Nicolas Rolin and his wife Guigone de Salins or more recent ones such as de Bahèzre de Lanlay, an inspector of aerial telegraphs. The Hospices de Beaune also provides the occasion for ‘Les Trois Glorieuses’, the three great feasts held over the weekend at clos de vougeot on Saturday night, in Beaune on Sunday night, and in meursault for the extended lunchtime bottle party that is the Paulée de Meursault on Monday. The Hospices de Nuits also holds a charity wine auction; see nuits-st-georges.
Domaine Bottling
The relatively recent practice of bottling the produce of a domaine on the property which produced it (although bottling at least in the region of production was advocated as early as 1728; see literature of wine). Such wines are described as domaine bottled, or mis(e) en bouteille au domaine in French. The term is the burgundy equivalent of Bordeaux’s château bottling, whose history is mirrored by the practice of domaine bottling. Domaine bottling began in the economic crisis years of the early 1930s but it was not until energetic foreign wine merchants such as Frank schoonmaker and Alexis lichine visited Burgundy in the second half of the 20th century that the better individual producers were encouraged, and in many cases subsidized, to bottle their own production, typically with the help of mobile bottling lines. The movement gathered pace in the 1980s and 1990s and is now seen as standard. However, many domaines also now produce some merchant bottlings, and most of the classic négociants are concentrating more on wines from their own vineyards. In either case the small print of bottling information may provide the only clue to the original provenance of the grapes: if the label states mis en bouteille au domaine, then the wine is made from fruit grown in their own vineyards. Otherwise the label is more likely to note: mis en bouteille par … followed by the producer’s name.
Classification- Burgundy
Burgundians were also well aware of the considerable variation in quality of the wines produced by different plots of land, or climats, as they are known in Burgundy. In 1855, Dr Lavalle published his influential History and Statistics of the Côte d’Or, which included an informal classification of the best vineyards. This was formalized in 1861 by the Beaune Committee of Agriculture, which, with Lavalle’s assistance, devised three classes. Most climats included in the first class eventually became grands crus when the appellation contrôlée system was introduced in the 1930s. See under burgundy for a full list of Burgundian grands crus, and see under individual village names for details of their premiers crus.
Classification
Of various wine estates and vineyards is in general a relatively recent phenomenon, dictated by the increasingly sophisticated wine market of the last 150 years or so. It has to a certain extent been superseded by the even more recent phenomenon of scoring individual wines. There were earlier instances of classifying individual vineyards, however. The vineyards of jurançon in south-west France were officially evaluated as early as the 14th century. Tax collectors in gattinara did the same in the 16th century. In 1644, the council of Würzburg in franken rigorously ranked the city’s vineyards according to the quality of wine they produced (see german history). The first mention of a classification of tokaj vineyards dates from 1700, although the classes were not ratified until 1737 (and the vineyards probably not officially mapped until 1786 under Emperor Joseph II).
Classification- Bordeaux
Bordeaux, with its plethora of fine, long-lasting wine from well-established estates and its well-organized market, is the wine region which has been most subject to classification of individual châteaux. The most famous wine classification in the world is that drawn up in 1855 of what became known as the classed growths of the médoc, and one graves (see following pages). In response to a request from Napoleon III’s 1855 Exposition Universelle in Paris (possibly so that dignitaries there should effectively know what to be impressed by), the Bordeaux brokers formalized their own and the market’s ranking with a five-class classification of 60 of the leading Médoc châteaux plus the particularly famous and historic Graves, haut-brion; and a two-class classification of sauternes and barsac. This classification merely codified the market’s view of relative quality as expressed by the prices fetched by individual estates’ wines. (It also formalized previous informal lists of those wines widely regarded as the best by the likes of Thomas jefferson, Wilhelm Franck, Alexander henderson, and Cyrus redding.) The brokers issued the 1855 classification through the Bordeaux Chamber of Commerce, and were careful to explain that it was based on a century’s experience. Within each of their classes, from first growths, or premiers crus, down to fifth growths, or cinquièmes crus, the brokers listed châteaux in descending order of average price fetched. Thus, it is widely believed, lafite, the ‘premier des premiers’, headed the list because it commanded prices in excess even of latour, margaux, and Haut-Brion (although others have argued that the first growths were simply listed in alphabetical order). In the original classification, the term château was rarely used. The 1855 classification has endured remarkably well considering the many and various changes to the management and precise extent of individual properties since it was compiled, with only Chx mouton rothschild and Léoville-barton in the same hands. Ch Dubignon-Talbot has not produced wine since the arrival of phylloxera in the late 19th century. Edmund penning-rowsell notes that Palmer’s low ranking may have been influenced by the fact that the property was in receivership in 1855, and that Cantemerle, a property relatively new to the Bordeaux market, was added to the bottom of the list in a different hand. The only official revision of this much-discussed list took place in 1973, when, after much lobbying on the part of Baron Philippe de rothschild, Ch Mouton-Rothschild made the all-important leap from top of the second growths to become a first growth (although see also super second). It could be argued that such a classification contains an element of self-preservation in that highly classified properties are thereby able to command prices which sustain the investment needed to maintain their status, although the history of Ch Margaux in the 1960s and 1970s demonstrates that other factors may affect this hypothesis, and in the 1980s and 1990s many Bordeaux proprietors were driven by competition and ambition to invest, and in some cases price, at a level above that suggested by their official ranking. See Ch léoville las cases in particular. The 1855 classification of Sauternes and Barsac is also printed on p. 183. Reflecting price and the réclame then attached to sweet wines, it elevated Ch d’yquem to premier cru supérieur, a rank higher even than any of the red wine first growths, and listed 11 châteaux as first growths and 14 as seconds. Other than Haut-Brion’s inclusion in the 1855 Médoc classification, the wines of the Graves district were not officially classified until 1953. This one-class list, slightly augmented in 1959, appears on p 182. It avoided some possible controversy by employing a democratically alphabetical order (Ch Haut-Brion Blanc was added in 1960). It should be said, however, that there is a wide differential between the prices commanded by Ch Haut-Brion and its close rival Ch La Mission-Haut-Brion, and those fetched by Chx Bouscaut and de Fieuzal, for example. The Graves district was subsequently divided into Graves and pessac-léognan. The classification of st-émilion, formally drawn up in 1955, is most frequently amended, and therefore most controversial. Modifications were published in 1969, 1985, 1996, 2006, and 2012 and these are likely to continue on the basis of monitoring of wine quality, vineyard boundaries, prices, and the like (vineyards cannot be extended between reclassifications). The 2006 classification was disputed and suspended in the spring of 2007, and then reinstated six months later. The 2012 classification, reproduced on pp. 182–3, has met with slightly less opposition. St-Émilion classification’s laudable topicality is mitigated by over-generosity in nomenclature, however. The top four properties Chx cheval blanc, ausone, Angélus, and Pavie are ranked, somewhat inelegantly, premiers grands crus classés A, while 14 properties qualify as premiers grands crus classés B. Below this are 64 grands crus classés, whose quality can vary considerably, and then in each vintage, on the basis of tastings, the deceptively grandiose rank of grand cru (minus the classé) is awarded to scores of individual wines from properties below grand cru classé status. pomerol is the only important fine wine district of Bordeaux never to have been classified, although its star petrus is conventionally included with Chx Lafite, Latour, Margaux, Haut-Brion, Mouton-Rothschild, Cheval Blanc, and Ausone as an honorary first growth. There have been regular attempts to revise and assimilate the various classifications of Bordeaux, most notably that drawn up by Alexis lichine in 1959. Most serious writers on bordeaux make their own revisions, more or less confirmed by the market.
Classification- Elsewhere
Few other regions of France have anything approaching an official classification, although see alsace for a list of those vineyards accorded grand cru status, chablis for details of crus in this northern outpost of Burgundy, and champagne for some details of the classification of individual villages there. There have been attempts, typically by wine writers, wine waiters, or producers’ associations to produce classifications of the best vineyards, or best wines, of many countries, notably Germany and Italy, but these have generally been too controversial to be widely adopted. With the exception of the douro, where individual vineyards have been classified for the quality of port they produce, the wine regions of Portugal and Spain are in too great a state of flux to submit satisfactorily to classification, like those of eastern Europe and the rest of the Mediterranean. In the New World, Australia prefers to classify not vineyards but individual wines, often much blended between areas, by awarding them medals and trophies in their famous shows. Langton’s Classification of Australian Wine, produced periodically, distinguishes wines on the basis of track record and reputation at auction. In North America, on the other hand, it seems that classification may never appeal to the democratic California wine industry.
Generic
Wine, one named after a wine type (and usually borrowed European place-name) as opposed to a varietal, named after the grape variety from which the wine was made. The term has been used particularly in australia and the united states. Under American law, wines labelled as generics may be made from any grape variety or blend of varieties, and called either after their colour (red, white, rosé) or after places. With nothing else to call their results, early california wineries borrowed European place-names shamelessly. Before prohibition one could buy, not just St-Julien and Margaux made in the state, but wines named after particular châteaux. After Prohibition, stricter laws limited the borrowings to a handful of so-called semi-generic names, most commonly Burgundy, Chablis, Champagne, Chianti, Rhine, Sauterne (sic), Sherry, and Port, but did nothing to demand even the faintest approximations of the original in terms of grape varieties or style. Chablis could and can be just as sickly sweet as Rhine, and both can be made from thompson seedless or any other white grape. Burgundy, Chianti, and Claret could all come from the same tank, and probably have done. Towards the end of the 1980s, Red Table Wine, White Table Wine, and Rosé began to replace place-names on many of the more reputable labels. However, Chablis, Burgundy, and other borrowed names remain in widespread use by a number of large-volume producers, giants gallo foremost among them. A wine agreement between the US and EU finally drafted in 2005 permitted the continued use of these semi-generic terms on established brands for an unspecified period. Generic names can still be found on many wine labels, particularly in non-exporting or developing wine regions. No third-country wine entering the eu may carry a geographical name recognized as a European wine name. Thus, for example, the Australian company penfolds had to change the name of their most famous wine from Penfolds Grange Hermitage to Penfolds Grange and, more fatuously, EU officials have objected to established New World place-names incorporating the word Port. Outside Europe, champagne is still widely used as a generic name for sparkling wine, although not usually for the best-quality products.
Village Wine
is a term used particularly in burgundy for a wine which qualifies for an appellation that coincides with the name of the village or commune in which the wine is made. It contrasts with a lesser generic wine, which takes the name of a region, and wines from premier cru and grand cru vineyards.
Frank Schoonmaker
Highly influential American wine writer and wine merchant. Born in South Dakota, he first became interested in wine when researching travel books in Europe in the late 1920s. Immediately after the Repeal of prohibition, he wrote a series of wine articles for the New Yorker which were published as The Complete Wine Book in 1934. Soon afterwards he founded an eponymous wine import company and travelled extensively, becoming noted for his abilities as a judge of young wines, his espousal of domaine bottling in Burgundy, and his expertise in German wines. An early advocate of American wines, he was highly critical of the habitual generic naming of them. In the 1940s, he was hired as consultant to the large California producer Almaden, for whom he created the best-selling varietal Grenache Rosé, having been inspired by the French wine tavel. Schoonmaker employed Alexis lichine, who was to occupy a very similar, if not more public, post immediately before the Second World War and the two men were to publish the first editions of their respective wine encyclopedias in 1964 and 1967. He published five wine books and numerous shorter works on wine.
Alexis Lichine
Was born in Russia but, unlike André tchelistcheff, another Russian who was to shape the American wine industry, he and his family left before the Revolution, and he was educated in France. After the Repeal of prohibition, Lichine sold wines, first in a shop in New York and subsequently for the gifted American wine importer Frank schoonmaker. After the Second World War, in which he served with distinction, he returned to finding French and German wines from individual estates and selling them in an America where wine was all but unknown. His success in doing this was considerable and came from a flair for seeing and recounting the romantic side of wine and winemaking, as well as appreciating the pleasures wine can bring. During the 1950s, he became a major figure in the French wine world, setting up his own company, Alexis Lichine & Co., to sell only château bottled and domaine bottled wines, for the most part from major properties. He sold this company to British brewers Bass-Charrington in 1964, and gradually left the commercial world to make wine and write books. For more detail, see the literature of wine.
Lichine assembled a group of investors to buy and renovate the margaux second growth Ch Lascombes in 1952, and ran the property with great success before selling it, again to Bass-Charrington, in 1971. He also bought in 1951 the fourth growth Ch Prieuré at Cantenac just outside Margaux. He officially renamed this property, based on an old Benedictine priory, Ch Prieuré-Lichine in 1953 and it was at this property, typically one of the first to welcome passing visitors, that he died in 1989. His son Sacha ran the property until its sale in 1999 and now makes acclaimed rosé on a Provençal estate Ch d’Esclans.
Jean- Antoine Chaptal
Who rose from humble beginnings to become Minister of the Interior under Napoleon. He was the son of an apothecary, and studied chemistry at the University of montpellier, where a Chair of Chemistry was founded for him in 1781. In 1799, he wrote the article on wine for the monumental Dictionnaire d’agriculture of the Abbé Rozier, but is better known in wine circles for his l’Art de faire le vin (1807) and his support for the concept of increasing the alcoholic strength of wine by adding sugar to the must, the procedure now known as chaptalization. Some winemakers throughout history sought to enhance either the quality or quantity of their product by adulterating the basic raw material, grapes, with other products. However, after the French Revolution of 1789, there was a considerable increase in the amount of poor-quality wine made in France. This provided the incentive for Chaptal to compile his famous Traité théorique et pratique sur la culture de la vigne (1801). Although he is best known for having introduced the metric system of weights and measures into France, as a practical scientist Chaptal was particularly concerned at the declining reputation of French wines, with increasing adulteration and fraud in the wine trade, and with the ignorance on the part of many French wine producers about the scientific advances that could help them. He was of the firm belief that it was perfectly natural, and desirable, to add sugar to wine in order to improve it. Although he encouraged farmers to use grape concentrate, he recognized that sugar from cane or beet was also capable of having a similar effect. (Another of Chaptal’s many achievements was his development of techniques for extracting sugar from sugar beet.) Chaptal’s treatise synthesizing beneficial winemaking techniques current at the beginning of the 19th century marked a turning point in the history of wine technology. It was translated into Italian, Spanish, German, and Hungarian. Two American versions appeared and James busby published a translation in Australia in 1825.
Pinot Beurot
ancient Burgundian synonym for pinot gris.
Monks and monasteries
Wine has always had spiritual and religious significance (see religion and wine), and monks and monasteries have long been regarded as playing a crucial part in wine history. While wine and the vine played a prominent role in most religions of the eastern Mediterranean during antiquity, it was in Christian religious symbolism and practice that it achieved particular significance, as an essential element of the eucharist. Such Christian symbolism built on earlier Jewish beliefs in which the vine or vineyard was used as one of the favourite symbols for the nation of israel in the Old Testament. The adoption of Christianity as the state religion of the Roman empire during the 4th century ad (see Ancient rome) meant that wine was to attain a position of the utmost ideological prominence in European society. While monasteries in the eastern Mediterranean and northern Africa continued to make wine in late antiquity, as evidenced in particular by their wine presses, the religious significance of wine is widely regarded as of particular importance at two main periods in its history: first, in ensuring the survival of viticulture following the collapse of the western Roman empire; and secondly in the introduction of viticulture and winemaking to the Americas. It has generally been argued that Christian communities’ need for grape-based wine with which to celebrate the Eucharist was one of the main factors enabling viticulture and winemaking to survive in western Europe following the fall of Rome in ad 476. It is assumed that when transport was difficult, it was easier for isolated Christian communities in northern Europe to cultivate their own vines rather than import wine. Moreover, monks are widely regarded as the only individuals capable of nurturing viticultural and winemaking traditions. There is, however, little firm evidence for this hypothesis. The Germanic tribes which overran the western Roman empire were known to be fond of wine, and there is little reason to suppose that they consciously destroyed vast expanses of European vineyards. This is supported by the evidence of surviving elements of the Gallo-Roman aristocracy, who recorded the continued cultivation of vines during the second half of the 5th century in areas of gaul such as Clermont-Ferrand. Bishops and monks certainly did own vineyards and organized the production of wine throughout the period from the 6th to the 10th century, but it is significant that in most instances they appear to have gained their vineyards mainly as grants from royalty or the secular nobility. This implies that substantial non-monastic vineyards survived and were developed in the aftermath of the Germanic invasions of the 5th century. The real role of monasteries therefore seems not so much to have been in the preservation of a tradition of viticulture following the collapse of Rome, but rather in building up substantial holdings of vineyards, and thus in being among the most important winemakers of medieval Europe (see also charlemagne). During the Middle Ages, monastic houses came to possess some of the most renowned vineyards of Europe. The Benedictines (who, like the Carthusians, are now popularly associated with a high-quality liqueur based on distilled wine) thus owned extensive vineyards. In burgundy the monks of Cluny owned most of the vines in what is now gevrey-chambertin, while the abbey of St-Vivant owned vineyards in what is now called vosne-romanée. Along the Loire, the Benedictine abbey of St-Nicolas held vineyards in what is now anjou, and Benedictine monasteries at bourgueil and La Charité also produced quantities of wine. Further south, the Benedictine abbey at st-pourçain produced what was one of the most renowned wines in medieval France. In champagne, the Benedictines held six monasteries in the diocese of Rheims, while in the rhône they held vineyards at both cornas and st-péray. In bordeaux, they owned such properties as Ch Prieuré in Cantenac (now carrying the suffix of a more recent owner, Alexis lichine) and Ch Carbonnieux in graves. In Germany, the abbey at St Maximin in the ruwer was producing about 9,000 l/2,370 gal of wine a year towards the end of the 8th century. Although they also owned many German vineyards, especially in rheinhessen and franken, the Benedictines’ best known German wine estate was schloss johannisberg in the rheingau (see german history). The more ascetic Cistercians, likewise, owned numerous important vineyards throughout Europe. The Clairvaux Abbey had extensive vineyards in champagne, and the Cistercians of Pontigny are reputed to have been the first to plant the chardonnay vine in chablis. Their most famous vineyard, however, was the extensive, walled clos de vougeot, and their other holdings in Burgundy included vineyards in meursault, beaune, and pommard. Cistercians also produced fine wines in sancerre and provence. Their most important wine-producing abbey in Germany was kloster eberbach in the rheingau, but there were many others, notably at Himmerod and Machern in the mosel and Maulbronn in württemberg. As major landowners throughout Europe, other monastic orders also owned extensive vineyards; the Carthusians, for example, had particular interests in cahors, switzerland, and Trier in the Upper Mosel. (See also priorat.) The second main viticultural role widely attributed to the monks was their influence on the development of vineyards in the Americas. In the 17th century, the Jesuits were major wine producers on the coastal plain of peru, and in the 18th century, with the expansion of Spanish interests in california, the Franciscans, particularly under the leadership of Júnipero Serra, played an important part in introducing viticulture and winemaking to Alta California. Most of the missions established in California during the 1770s and 1780s thus cultivated vines and made wine, with the Mission of San Gabriel becoming particularly famous for its wines, although the majority of mission vineyards nevertheless remained very small. In the 21st century, monastic winemaking continues, despite the earlier effects of the Reformation in northern Europe. Abbeys and monasteries still producing wine include Göttweig, Heiligenkreuz, and klosterneuburg in Austria and Muri-Gries near Bolzano in alto adige while at St Hildegard above Rüdesheim in the German Rheingau almost all the work is actually done by the sisters. Perhaps the most unexpected wine-producing monastery is Cremisan, sandwiched between Israel and Palestine. Quite apart from the general role played by monastic orders in the history of wine, certain individual monks and monasteries enjoy vinous fame on their own account. The classic example of this is the work of Dom pérignon in improving the quality of the wines of Hautvillers in champagne at the end of the 17th century.
Midi
Common name for the south of France. Like ‘Mezzogiorno’ in Italy, it means literally ‘midday’ and refers to regions where midday is a time of extreme heat and inactivity, at least in summer. Midi is often used synonymously with languedoc and roussillon, although strictly speaking the Midi encompasses provence as well.
Sacy
White grape variety once widely grown in the Yonne département. Its productivity is its chief attribute, its acidity the wine’s most noticeable characteristic. This has been used to reasonable effect by the producers of sparkling wines, and the variety, also called Tressallier, is still (just) grown as an ingredient in the white wines of st-pourçain.
Cesar
Minor vine speciality of the far north of Burgundy, where it can contribute backbone to such light, soft reds as irancy. dna profiling at davis suggested it is a progeny of pinot and Argant.
Auxerre
Once an important city in the Yonne département of north east France. Today chablis is the Yonne’s most famous and substantial wine appellation, but in the time of charlemagne, the region centred on Auxerre 20 km/12 miles west had many more vineyards, being a larger centre of population and being conveniently situated on a river which leads directly into the Seine and thence to the paris basin. It is perhaps not surprising, given its historic importance, that so many vine varieties have the name or synonym auxerrois, meaning ‘of Auxerre’. Within the region, irancy has had its own appellation for Pinot Noir since 1999 and st-bris for its Sauvignon Blanc. There are also regional appellations for light reds made mainly from Pinot Noir and whites from Chardonnay sold as bourgogne with one of these suffixes: Chitry, Côte Saint-Jacques, Côtes d’Auxerre, Coulanges-la-Vineuse, Epineuil (reds only), and, for whites only, Vézelay and Tonnerre.
St- Bris
Was granted full appellation status from the 2001 vintage for its crisp, cool climate Sauvignon (Gris is now allowed as well as Blanc), having been a vdqs since 1974. Total vineyard area in the communes of St-Bris-le-Vineux, Chitry, irancy, Quenne, and parts of Vincelottes south of auxerre and west of chablis had grown to 140 ha/349 acres by 2012. The wine is too obscure to be made with anything other than artisan passion, but it lacks the breed and concentration of great Loire Sauvignon Blanc made to the south west. Being technically Burgundian but made from a decidedly non-Burgundian grape, it is a curiosity.
Monthelie
A village producing red and occasionally white wine in the Côte de Beaune district of Burgundy’s côte d’or (see map under burgundy). It is so dominated by wine production that local saying has it that a chicken in Monthelie is likely to die of hunger at harvest time. The wines resemble those of volnay but are neither quite as rich nor as elegant, although they age well and are more powerful than those of auxey-duresses, the neighbouring appellation to the south with which the premier cru vineyard Les Duresses is shared. The other premier cru vineyards of Monthelie (which were expanded considerably in 2006) such as Meix Bataille and Champs Fulliot lie adjacent to Volnay. Some Chardonnay was planted in the 1980s, for Monthelie also borders the white wine village of meursault.
Ladoix
the appellation from the village of Ladoix-Serrigny in the Côte de Beaune district of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or, producing about 70% red wines from Pinot Noir grapes, sometimes sold as Côte de Beaune-Villages. White wines are growing in popularity, especially those grown towards the top of the slope. Unusually in Burgundy, some of the premiers crus are designated for red wine only (e.g. Les Joyeuses) or white wines only (e.g. Les Gréchons) while bizarrely a small number of premier cru vineyards located in Ladoix such as Les Moutottes are sold under the name Aloxe-Corton. Furthermore, 6 ha of Corton-Charlemagne and 22 ha (out of 160) of Le Corton, including part of Le Rognet and Les Vergennes, are actually sited in Ladoix.
St- Romain
Exquisitely pretty village perched on top of a cliff in the Côte de Beaune district of Burgundy producing red wines from Pinot Noir and white wines from Chardonnay. There are no premiers crus in the appellation, which was granted only in 1947, and applies to just 98 ha/240 acres, of which two-thirds produce lively white wine. The vineyards of St-Romain are situated behind those of Auxey-Duresses and at higher elevation, 300 to 400 m/985 to 1,310 ft above sea level, than is usual in the Côte d’Or. In lesser vintages, the grapes do not ripen as well as elsewhere but in warmer years the wines can be excellent value. St-Romain is also home to one of the region’s best-known coopers, François Frères. Alain Gras makes particularly fine wines here.
Burgundy: Optional Labeling Information- Methods of Production
Other optional details will inform you about the depth, the complexity and originality of your wine. To help you select Bourgogne wines for your cellar, look out for signs of quality and authenticity such as:
- The method of production demonstrates a set of skills and reflects a passion. You may find out about the age of the vines (e.g. “vieilles vignes”, or old vines), the harvesting method (e.g. “vendanges manuelles”, or hand picked), or else details of the vinification and ageing.
- A particular growing method, spotlighted by the producer, proud of a conviction that he or she wants to share. Since 2012, labels can include, for example, the mention “Vin biologique” (organic wine), if a state-approved national agency has granted the producer an organic label, in accordance with French and European specifications. (This precise detail also covers the method of vinification).
- The color of the wine
- Details of the commercial structure (4), notably for wines sold by cooperative cellars.
- Medals : these will help you in your choice. If they appear on bottles, they can only refer to competitions recognized by the French Ministry of Agriculture.
This list is not exhaustive, since legislation allows for further optional information to appear on labels.
Burgundy: Optional Information on the Label- Precise Information to Guide You
A bottle’s labeling provides you with essential information to improve your knowledge of Bourgogne wines and to drink them with confidence. In addition to the compulsory details, the label or back-label can underline the singularity of a wine through further optional information :
- By distinguishing itself through a brand name and a commercial signature (2) : this is an aid for recognition. Only wines that have been granted an Appellation d’Origine can use the terms “Château”, “Clos” or “Cru”.
- By indicating the vintage (1) : the production from certain years enjoy an exceptional reputation. For this information to appear on the label, at least 85% of the wine must come from grapes harvested in the year mentioned.
- By noting the name of the varietal (3) : this information, authorized on the labeling of certain appellations Régionales Bourgogne wines, gives you additional detail. A single varietal can be declared if the wine is made from at least 85% of that grape type. If two or three varietals are mentioned, the wine must only contain the named grape varieties.
Burgundy: A guarantee of quality and authenticity
To allow you to enjoy your Bourgogne wines with full transparency, the compulsory details give you essential information on traceability:
• The name of the wine, a reference of authenticity.
It tells you about the terroir from which the wine was produced and ensures the respect for strict specifications. This is associated with mention Appellation Contrôlée/Protégée (AC/AP) or Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée/Protégée (9) (AOC/AOP).
• The name, registered company and the address (8) of the bottler, whether this was the producer him- or herself, or a cooperative cellar. This is usually made up of recognized formulas like “Mis en bouteilles par” (Bottled by) or “Conditionné par” (Packaged by).
• The country of production (5), if the wine is destined for export.
• The batch number (1), which allows for monitoring of food and drink products. This number, preceded by the letter “L”, is not always found on the label or back-label. It is sometimes found on the foil cap which covers the cork.
Since 2002, the Bourgogne wine board has required an additional compulsory mention (2), with “Vin de Bourgogne” appearing on labels whatever the level of the appellation, or “Grand Vin de Bourgogne” in the case of Villages, Premier Cru and Grand Cru appellations.
Burgundy: Clear information on the nature of the wine
The compulsory details also inform you about the composition of the wine, its particular characteristics and its container:
• The label specifies the capacity of the bottle (4) in liters, centiliters or milliliters.
• The alcohol content (7) appears in the form of a percentage of volume, with a tolerance of 0.5%. This is sometimes preceded by “alc.”, “alcool acquis”, or “titre alcoométrique volumique acquis” (TAV or TAVA).
To warn people suffering from allergies, the presence of certain elements is detailed. Since 2012, allergens must also appear on the label:
- The wording “contains sulfites” (3) is obligatory, if their concentration is greater than 10mg/l. It can also be replaced by one of the following phrases: “contient du dioxyde de soufre” or “contient de l’anhydride sulfureux”.
- Milk- or egg-based products can be used to fine wines, in order to leave them clearer and brighter. The majority of these products is eliminated during filtration, but traces may remain. The following mentions are authorized, always preceded by the term “contains”: “œuf” (egg), “protéine de l’œuf” (egg protein), “produit de l’œuf” (egg product), “lysozyme de l’œuf” (egg lysozyme) or “albumine de l’œuf” (egg albumen); “lait” (milk), “produits du lait” (milk products), “caséine du lait” (milk casein), or “protéine du lait” (milk protein).
To provide you with as much information as possible on the wines you buy, wine producers can also include optional information, like the grape varietal, the year of harvest, the place where it was bottled or a commercial signature.
The Climats: unique to the Bourgogne region
Climats are precisely delineated plots of land that enjoy specific geological and climatic conditions. When combined with human effort and translated through the two great Bourgogne varietals of Pinot Noir for reds and Chardonnay for whites, they give rise to an exceptional range of appellations that are classified according to quality and which enjoy international renown.
The Climats confer their own unique organoleptic qualities onto the wines of Bourgogne, such as their appearance, aromas, flavors and texture.
Some Climats were first referenced as far back as the 7th century, such as Clos de Bèze in Gevrey. For centuries, the reputation of Bourgogne wines was driven by the monks of Cîteaux, and then by the Dukes of Bourgogne. Some wines, such as Clos Vougeot and Montrachet, which bore the name of the Climat where they were grown, acquired a reputation that extended beyond French borders.
In 1935, the National Institute for Origins and Quality (INAO), made official the usage of the word “Climat” and began using it in legal texts applying to all Bourgogne appellations, whatever their level of hierarchy.
The Climats are a sign of excellence and on 4 July 2015, the Climats were included on the UNESCO World Heritage List.
Lieux-dits: intimately linked to the Climats
Lieux-dits are also plots recognized for their own topographic or historical specificities. Their precise geographical location is not registered by the INAO.
A certain number of producers choose to feature the name of their lieu-dit on their labels, such as Pouilly-Fuissé, Le Clos Reyssié.
Burgundy: The Climats: unique places in a diverse natural environment
The names of the Climats sometimes refer to unique natural characteristics. When you taste a Montagny Premier Cru, Les Combes, a Nuits-Saint-Georges Premier Cru, Aux Cras or a Meursault Premier Cru, Genevrières, the name will lead you to the vineyard and its environment.
Some of the Climats of the Bourgogne region take their names from the peculiarities of the landscape. Every place tells its story in your glass, relating:
• A particular relief
• A unique aspect
• A precise elevation
• Characteristic vegetation
• Unique natural geology
Burgundy: The stamp of the environment
In the Bourgogne region, the incline, aspect and elevation of every Climat are different.
For example, the word “combe” is Gallic in origin and means “hollow” or “valley”. The valleys that one finds now on the Côte were hollowed out by glacial meltwater during the last Ice Age, over 20,000 years ago.
In the summertime, these melt waters flowed as waterfalls, and carved out steep sided valleys in the limestone and wider ones in softer rock. These waters swept along blocks of stone and pebbles, which accumulated, explaining the significant amount of stony material present in the vineyards.
Wine names that include a reference to a valley include Puligny-Montrachet Premier Cru, Les Combettes and Mercurey Premier Cru, Les Combins.
Burgundy: Soil type
The soil and sub-soil are the very foundations of the Bourgogne region.
The term “Perrière” has many meanings. Most frequently, it indicates a quarry – a place where stones and rock were extracted. A great deal were dug and went on to become vineyards. The word is also used to describe plots that are or were close to stony paths.
One such name is Meursault Premier Cru, Les Perrières.
On certain Climats called “Les Crais” or “Les Chailles,” there is also a lot of stone, but here it is in its raw state, scattered on the land rather than being quarried.
For example, Ladoix Premier Cru, Les Chaillots.
Burgundy: The presence of vegetation
The Bourgogne winegrowing region is home to some rich and varied vegetation.
For example, juniper can be found growing in scrubland or windswept areas. This scented evergreen with spiny needles and bluish-violet berries thrives on Bourgogne limestone.
Its name is referenced in many different names including Les Genavrières in Morey-Saint-Denis, and Aux Genaivrières in Vosne-Romanée. In Meursault, the Climat known as Genevrières includes several lieux-dits, such as Les Genevrières Dessus and Les Genevrières Dessous.
Burgundy: A sign of authenticity in the heart of the terroir
The Bourgogne region is recognized around the world for its prestigious AOCs, with exactly 100 appellations to its name, representing more than 20% of all AOCs attributed to French wines.
This exceptional profusion has its roots in the diversity of the natural conditions of the vineyards. As such, there can be slight differences between two neighboring plots, in terms of their aspect and/or soil type.
The winegrowers of the Bourgogne region know how to preserve the differences in character brought about by these tiny variations.
Appellations Régionales, the whole Bourgogne region within reach
Bourgogne Aligoté, Mâcon Villages, Coteaux Bourguignons, Crémant de Bourgogne – these are just a few of the 23 appellations Régionales produced across the Bourgogne winegrowing region.
These wines offer an excellent entry point into the world of Bourgogne wines and are perfect for enjoying between friends.
Appellations Village, each one is a Bourgogne wine but each is unique
The 44 appellations Village take their names from the commune where their grapes were grown, such as Mercurey, Pommard, and Nuits-Saint-Georges.
Discover them on the estate or at home. They will enable you to explore all the diversity of the wines of Bourgogne.
Burgundy Premiers Crus
pecific individual plots within the appellations Village
These wines are produced from single plots, which are precisely defined within an appellation Village. These plots are known as Climats.
On the bottle, the name of the commune is followed by the name of the plot where the grapes were grown, such as Chablis Premier Cru, Montée de Tonnerre for example.
The Climats are anything but a marketing tool. They are a physical and sensorial reality. Taste their wines to truly grasp all their elegant flavors.
Burgundy Grand Crus
These 33 world-renowned Grand Cru wines of Bourgogne express the unique characteristics of some exceptional plots.
On their labels, the name of the village is replaced by a single Climat name such as Corton, Montrachet, Romanée Saint-Vivant or Clos de Tart.
Synonymous with sophistication and uniqueness, these appellations Grands Crus are to be enjoyed on exceptional occasions.
Cote de Nuit- Grand Crus
Chambertin, Chambertin-Clos de Bèze, Chapelle-Chambertin, Griotte-Chambertin, Latricières-Chambertin, Mazis-Chambertin, Mazoyères-Chambertin, Ruchottes-Chambertin, Clos de la Roche, Clos de Tart, Clos Saint-Denis, Clos des Lambrays, Clos de Vougeot, Échezeaux, Grands Échezeaux ,Richebourg, Romanée-Conti, Romanée-Saint-Vincent, La Tâche, Musigny, Bonnes Marres, Charmes Chambertin
Cote de Nuit- Appellations Villages
some of which have Climats classified as Premiers Crus: Chambolle-Musigny, Côte de Nuits-Villages, Fixin, Gevrey-Chambertin, Marsannay, Marsannay rosé, Morey-Saint-Denis, Nuits-Saint-Georges, Vosne-Romanée, Vougeot.
Chambertin- Wine Characteristics
Vivid coloration ranging from deep ruby to black-cherry. Their aromas suggest strawberry, blackcurrant, and gooseberry as well as fruit pits, liquorice, and spices. Violet, moss and underbrush are also likely to be present. On the palate, power, opulence and elegance unite to make a full and complex body, full of sap and voluptuosness textured. Keeping potential is 10 years minimum. Although these sumptuous Grands Crus share a family resemblance, each has its own distinctive nuances.
Chambertin- Wine Steward’s Tip
The Grands Crus of Gevrey-Chambertin are iconic Pinot Noir wines; powerful, virile, complex and intense. They demand equally complex, hightoned dishes to keep the pairing in balance. Feathered game (grilled or, better still, in wine sauce) will, of course, be a worthy companion. The power of the wine’s tannins will withstand the shock of contrasting textures while its aromatic complexity and above all its opulence will bring out the differences.
Roast lamb in gravy, chicken in red wine sauce, glazed poultry, and rib steak will also benefit from the match, not forgetting soft-centred cheeses which will get strong support from the wine’s power and aromatic persistence.
Serving temperature: 12 to 14°C for young wines,14 to 16°C for older wines.
Chambertin- Situation
Gevrey-Chambertin lies alongside the Route des Grands Crus at the northern end of the Côte which runs from North to South between the Combes of Lavaux at one end and Morey-Saint-Denis at the other. It can be likened to a Cinemascope screen, facing east, at altitudes between 240 and 280 meters. The Clos de Bèze first appears in the history of the Côte de Nuits in the year 640 AD as a monastic property. In 1219 it passed to the canons of Langres, who retained ownership until the French Revolution (1789). The name Chambertin has been used since the 13th century and once shared imperial approval with Clos de Bèze - Napoleon would drink nothing else. Its boundaries have not changed since the Middle Ages. In recognition of their similarity, the 7 Climats adjoining those of Chambertin and Clos de Bèze attach the name Chambertin to their own names (except in the case of Clos de Bèze where the name Chambertin comes first).
Grand Cru status was officially granted on 31 July 1937.
Chambertin- Clos de Beze: Wine Characteristics
Vivid coloration ranging from deep ruby to black-cherry. Their aromas suggest strawberry, blackcurrant, and gooseberry as well as fruit pits, liquorice, and spices. Violet, moss and underbrush are also likely to be present. On the palate, power, opulence and elegance unite to make a full and complex body, full of sap and voluptuosness textured. Keeping potential is 10 years minimum. Although these sumptuous Grands Crus share a family resemblance, each has its own distinctive nuances.
Chambertin- Clos de Beze: Wine Stewards Tip
The Grands Crus of Gevrey-Chambertin are iconic Pinot Noir wines; powerful, virile, complex and intense. They demand equally complex, hightoned dishes to keep the pairing in balance. Feathered game (grilled or, better still, in wine sauce) will, of course, be a worthy companion. The power of the wine’s tannins will withstand the shock of contrasting textures while its aromatic complexity and above all its opulence will bring out the differences.
Roast lamb in gravy, chicken in red wine sauce, glazed poultry, and rib steak will also benefit from the match, not forgetting soft-centred cheeses which will get strong support from the wine’s power and aromatic persistence.
Serving temperature: 12 to 14°C for young wines, 14 to 16°C for older wines.
Chambertin- Clos de Beze: Situation
Gevrey-Chambertin lies alongside the Route des Grands Crus at the northern end of the Côte which runs from North to South between the Combes of Lavaux at one end and Morey-Saint-Denis at the other. It can be likened to a Cinemascope screen, facing east, at altitudes between 240 and 280 meters.
The Clos de Bèze first appears in the history of the Côte de Nuits in the year 640 AD as a monastic property. In 1219 it passed to the canons of Langres, who retained ownership until the French Revolution (1789). The name Chambertin has been used since the 13th century and once shared imperial approval with Clos de Bèze - Napoleon would drink nothing else. Its boundaries have not changed since the Middle Ages. In recognition of their similarity, the 7 Climats adjoining those of Chambertin and Clos de Bèze attach the name Chambertin to their own names (except in the case of Clos de Bèze where the name Chambertin comes first).
Grand Cru status was officially granted on 31 July 1937.
Chambertin- Clos de Beze: Terrior
This hill-slope lies on hard rocks. On the upper portion are brown soils, partly alluvial, partly scree, and some tens of centimetres deep. Lower down are claylimestone soils in varying proportions. Up-slope, the rocks are of bathonien origin, lower down the marls and limestones belong to the Jurassic (Bajocian) and numerous marine fossils are to be found on the surface, recalling the sea which covered this area some 150 million years ago.
Chapelle- Chambertin: Characteristics
Vivid coloration ranging from deep ruby to black-cherry. Their aromas suggest strawberry, blackcurrant, and gooseberry as well as fruit pits, liquorice, and spices. Violet, moss and underbrush are also likely to be present. On the palate, power, opulence and elegance unite to make a full and complex body, full of sap and voluptuosness textured. Keeping potential is 10 years minimum. Although these sumptuous Grands Crus share a family resemblance, each has its own distinctive nuances.
Chapelle- Chambertin: Wine Stewards Tips
The Grands Crus of Gevrey-Chambertin are iconic Pinot Noir wines; powerful, virile, complex and intense. They demand equally complex, hightoned dishes to keep the pairing in balance. Feathered game (grilled or, better still, in wine sauce) will, of course, be a worthy companion. The power of the wine’s tannins will withstand the shock of contrasting textures while its aromatic complexity and above all its opulence will bring out the differences.
Roast lamb in gravy, chicken in red wine sauce, glazed poultry, and rib steak will also benefit from the match, not forgetting soft-centred cheeses which will get strong support from the wine’s power and aromatic persistence.
Serving temperature: 12 to 14°C for young wines,14 to 16°C for older wines.
Chapelle- Chambertin: Grand Cru
En la Chapelle, Les Gémeaux
Griotte- Chambertin: Grand Cru
En Griotte
Gevrey- Chambertin- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Mazis- Chambertin, Ruchottes- Chambertin, Chambertin Clos De Beze, Griotte- Chambertin, Charmes- Chambertin, Le Chambertin, Latricieres- Chambertin, Mazoyeres- Chambertin, Chapelle- Chambertin
Morey- St- Denis- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Clos de la Roche, Clos- St- Denis, Clos de Lambrays, Clos de Tart, Bones Mares
Chambolle- Musigny- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Bonnes Mares (most), Le Musigny (some white wine too)
Vougeot- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Clos de Vougeot
Flagey- Echezeaux- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Grands Echezeaux, Echezeaux
Vosne- Romanee- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Richebourg, Romanee- St- Viviant, Romanee- Conti, La Romanee, La Grande Rue, La Tache
Ladoix- Serrigny- Cote de Beaune: Grand Crus (white unless stated)
Corton (almost all red), Corton- Charlemagne
Aloxe- Corton- Cote de Beaune: Grand Crus (white unless stated)
Corton (almost all red), Corton- Charlemagne
Pernaud- Vergelesse-Cote de Beaune: Grand Crus (white unless stated)
Corton- Charlemagne, Charlemagne (no longer used)
Puligny- Montrachet- Cote de Beaune: Grand Crus (white unless stated)
Chevalier- Montrachet, Bienvenue- Batard Montrachet
Shared with Chassagne- Montrachet: Le Montrachet and Batard- Montrachet
Chassagne- Montrachet- Cote de Beaune: Grand Crus (white unless stated)
Criots- Batard- Montrachet
Shared with Puligny- Montrachet: Le Montrachet, Batard- Montrachet
Gevrey- Chambertin- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Mazis- Chambertin, Ruchottes- Chambertin, Chambertin Clos De Beze, Griotte- Chambertin, Charmes- Chambertin, Le Chambertin, Latricieres- Chambertin, Mazoyeres- Chambertin, Chapelle- Chambertin
Morey- St- Denis- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Clos de la Roche, Clos- St- Denis, Clos de Lambrays, Clos de Tart, Bones Mares
Chambolle- Musigny- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Bonnes Mares (most), Le Musigny (some white wine too)
Vougeot- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Clos de Vougeot
Flagey- Echezeaux- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Grands Echezeaux, Echezeaux
Vosne- Romanee- Cote de Nuit: Grand Crus (red unless stated)
Richebourg, Romanee- St- Viviant, Romanee- Conti, La Romanee, La Grande Rue, La Tache
Burgundy: History
312: first written evidence of vines in the area (petition to Emperor Constantine for tax reduction) but vines probably already cultivated by the celts before.
910: foundation of the Benedictine abbey of Cluny that became one of the largest landowner of the Middle Ages.
1091: foundation of dissident Cistercian order who planted Clos de Vougeot & credited with delineation of
vineyard parcels based on how the wine tasted (-> terroir)
11-13th: white wine more prevalent
1370: 1st mention of Pinot noir. 1395: decree by Philip Le Hardi banning Gamay in Burgundy.
1789: Revolution -> vineyards of the Church and nobles auctioned off. Only rich nobles could buy so little
change ownership.
Post 1789: Napoleonic law of inheritance -> division of vineyards in small parcels => fragmented + consumer-
unfriendly.
18-19th: improvement in road & rail networks meant further exportation of Burgundy wines via rise or négociants.
1860-70s: Phylloxera nearly wiped out the vines in the region as American rootstocks were banned until late.
Rich owners’ vineyards became worthless and the price of land became more accessible. Replanting only in
best areas. Landowners planted and selected the grapes but could not afford presses or bottling equipment so négociants vinified & bottled the wine for most of the profit. Frontier now blurred with more growers bottling.
1928: Syndicat de défense des Producteurs de Grands Vins Fins de la Cote d’Or founded with d’Angerville key member that paved the way to the modern appellation system create in the 1930s following a few high profile
court cases.
Chablis (6,700 ha)- Key Regions and Characteristics
- Formerly part of large wine-growing region supplying Paris with reds via the Seine River. Phylloxera + railway expansion (to other wine regions) + international competition => vineyards÷10 in 100years Renaissance since 1945 thanks to unique cold limestone terroir and Chardonnay wines. ‘98: INAO extended Chablis AC considering Portlandian soil to provide similar properties to wine.
- Cool continental climate with serious spring frosts risks.
- Limy, chalky soil (Kimmeridgian soil: chalk+clay+oyster fossils) with best vineyards around town of Chablis &
facing south - Only Chardonnay allowed
- Grands Crus (7): Les Clos, Vaudésir, Valmur, Les Preuses, Bougros, Blanchot, Les Grenouilles are all in a
block on the northern side of Chablis by the Serein river. Small proportion of oak-aged wine. - Premier Crus: at least 0.5%
Cote d’ Or: Cote du Nuits (Dijon> Nuits- St- Georges)- 3,800ha
High complexity of terroir -> wealth of variety in wines
Pinot Noir kingdom
Premier crus: slightly higher; some outstanding in combes (south facing side valleys) e.g. Combe d’Orveau
in Chambolle.
Grand crus: east-facing, usually mid-slopes on slight incline but v poor soils.
Key communes & Grand crus:
- Marsannay
- Fixin
- Gevrey-Chambertin: Chambertin, Chambertin-Clos de Beze, Charmes-Chambertin
- Morey St Denis: Clos de la roche, Clos St Denis, Clos de Lambrays, Clos de Tart
- Chambolle-Musigny: Le Musigny, Bonnes Marres
- Vougeot: Clos Vougeot
- Vosne Romanée: Richebourg, Romanée-Conti, LaTache, LaRomanée
- Grand Échezeaux:Échézeaux
- Nuits-Saint-Georges
Cote d’ Or: Cote de Beaune (Aloxe- Corton> Santenay)- 6000ha
Climate less variable & vines more spread out vs. Cote de Nuits; Grand Crus at the extreme of the region
Aloxe-Corton: particularly meagre soils on volcanic subsoil / Montrachet: great light&heat -> always ripe grapes
Key communes & Grand crus:
- Aloxe-Corton: Corton, Corton-Charlemagne
- Pernand-Vergelesses
- Savigny-les-Beaune
- Beaune
- Pommard (reds only)
- Volnay(redsonly)
- Meursault
- Saint-Aubin
- Auxey-Duresses
- Puligny-Montrachet:Le Montrachet, Batard-Montrachet
- Chassagne-Montrachet: Le Montrachet, Crists-Batard-Montrachet
- Santenay
Cote Chalonnaise (Chalons- sur- Soane> Macon)- 4,800ha
Warmer & higher altitude (300-350m) vs. Cote d’Or.
Importance of microclimate + weather. Bad years -> PN & Ch. have difficulty to ripen.
No grands crus, 5 communal AOCs w 4 with premier cru locations:
- Rully
- Bouzeron(Aligoté only)
- Mercurey
- Givry
- Montagny
Homeland to Passetoutgrains & Crémant de Bourgogne
Macconais
Warm continental climate; limestone soils
Mainly Chardonnay (60%) and some Gamay
Mixed agriculture => domination of cooperatives (70% of all wines by cooperatives)
No premier or grand crus but regional and communal ACs:
- Macon AC / Macon supérieur AC (+0.5% potential alc)
- Macon Villages/ Macon+‘village’: from one or several of the 43 villages around Macon
- Pouilly-Fuissé(whites only)
- Viré-Clessé
- Pouilly-Louché
- Puilly-Vinzelles
- Saint-Véran(St Amour)
Perception problem w 50% of wine of Maconnais do not carry name of area (e.g. sold as ‘Bourgogne blanc’)
Pouilly-Fuissé & St-Véran gaining popularity.
