Burgundy Flashcards
Chablis
Name of town and appellation that lies in valley of the river Serein, northern burgundy.
110k northwest of Dijon, slightly cooler climate than Côte d’Or.
All wines are dry, most medium bodied, medium alcohol, zesty, high acid, green apple and lemon.
Generally no/minimal oak, though some fermentation/aging in oak for premier/grand cru.
Most good-outstanding. Can be aged.
Mid-price to premium. A few super premium examples. Generally not as expensive as best wines from Côte d’Or.
Popularity of Chablis
Major swings in popularity.
Early nineteenth century = boom because close to Paris.
Plantings shrunk due to phylloxera + powdery mildew and moreso the building of the Paris-Lyons-Marseille railway middle of the nineteenth century.
Could not compete with cheaper wines from south of France.
Rural depopulation after WWI + devastating frost of 1945 = only 500 ha of Chablis left.
In more recent years, demand back up. Plantings at 5500 ha.
Climate of Chablis
Continental. Cold winters, warm summers.
Cool northern location means uncertainty about ripening and lots of vintage variation. Early ripening is an advantage.
Average rain 670 mm but spread throughout year meaning moist climate and high fungal disease risk. Plus difficulties in period leading to harvest (rot risk).
Vulnerable to spring frost, hail storms. Both have severely impacted recent vintages.
Options for spring frost in Chablis
Smudge pots (smoky, causes air pollution, requires labor)
Sprinklers (assertion is popular but installation and maintenance costs are high. Only for well funded companies or premier/grand cru)
Pruning choices (later pruning = later bud burst, reducing chance of damage to new buds from early spring frost)
Rootstock in Chablis
41B (vinifera x berlandieri) widely used; tolerant of limestone soils with a high pH.
420A (riparia x berlandieri) popular for low vigor and tolerance of high pH soil
Training system in Chablis
Double Guyot replacement cane training is typical. If one cane fails, the other may survive frost.
Mostly machine harvested but grand cru vineyards are mostly too steep.
Yields are higher than Côte d’Or but recently reduced by hail/frost.
Soils of Petit Chablis
Typically higher cooler vineyards, mostly Portlandian soils (hard limestone with less clay)
Predominantly on flat land/gentle slopes slopes. Aspects vary but many north facing sites.
This leads to light bodied wines, high acidity and light intensity. Green apple and lemon.
Soils of Chablis
Large area. Kimmeridgian soil + some mixed aspects.
Predominantly on flat land/gentle slopes slopes. Aspects vary but many north facing sites.
This leads to light bodied wines, high acidity and medium intensity. Green apple and lemon.
Soils and Location of Chablis Premier Cru
40 named vineyards have premier cru status. Mostly on south and south-east facing slopes, kimmeridgian soil.
Some larger premier cru vineyards have specifically named lieux-dits (plots) within them.
Wines made from these can be named under specific site (Chablis premier cru Troêsmes) or under the larger climat they fall within.
Lieux-dits + Climats
A climat in a named vineyard fixed in AOC legislation. A lieu-dit is a named piece of land in the centralized land register.
Wines made in specific lieux-dits can be labeled as such, or labeled with the climat they are within.
Soils and location of Chablis Grand Cru
One single grand cru with several named vineyards (climat). This is immediately next to the village of Chablis.
Faces southwest, on the right bank of the river Serein, on kimmeridgian soil.
South facing slopes promote ripening = greater weight and concentration.
Crumbly marl with good drainage, high clay content for water retention (contributes to higher quality)
GC represents just 1% of Chablis production.
Slopes in Chablis
Both premier and grand cru vineyards are predominantly on south-facing slopes, often mid-slope.
This means better draining, better frost protection. Southerly aspect means better light interception and therefore riper fruit.
GC vineyards also benefit from wind shelter; a belt of trees separating it from adjacent Petit Chablis vineyards halts winds from the north
Winemaking in Chablis
Chaptalisation up to legal limit used regularly in all but warmest years.
Fermentation typically in stainless steel, storage in stainless steel or concrete for a few months for most wines.
Malolactic common to soften acidity. Wines may also spend some time on lees to enhance texture.
GC, and occasionally PC, may be fermented/aged in barrel.
Flavors and use of oak in Chablis
Oak aromas not typically desirable, not commonly found in generic Chablis (celebrated for crisp bright citrus/green apple + high acid).
But this is controversial - many top producers choose to use oak.
Dauvissat + Raveneau (old oak)
William Fèvre (new oak)
Or, in converse Jean-Marc Brocard (stainless steel or concrete for GC)
Yields in Chablis
Only Chardonnay.
Maximum yields:
60 for Petit Chablis + Chablis
58 for Chablis Premier Cru
54 for Chablis Grand Cru
Négociants in Chablis
As in rest of burgundy, traditional distinction between négocient and domaine is breaking down.
Some négociants have bought land, and some domaines supplement their production with négociant business.
Syndicat de Défense de l’Appellation de Chablis
Founded in 1933 by William Fevre to combat fraud and address environmental issues
L’Union des Grands Crus de Chablis
Voluntary association to promote the quality of Chablis Grand Cru. Limited to those with Grand Cru sites.
Has a quality charter: members must practice sustainable viticulture and harvest by hand.
Pricing for wines of Chablis
Name of domaine and appellation drive price.
Petit Chablis and Chablis tend to be mid-priced, sometimes premium.
Premier Cru and Grand Cru usually premium/super premium.
Wines from special producers can sell at extremely high prices (Raveneau, Dauvissat)
In general, prices in Chablis are lower than corresponding wines in the quality hierarchy in Côte d’Or.
2/3 of Chablis by volume is exported. UK biggest destination, followed by USA, Japan, Sweden, Canada.
Côte d’Or and southern Burgundy climate
Moderate continental.
Dijon, at the northern end of the Côte d’Or, is around 500 km from the Mediterranean. Cold winters, warm summers.
Short summers = suitable for early ripening Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Early autumn typically dry but rain can be a threat at harvest.
Climate of Mâconnais slightly drier and warmer.
Morvan hills
To the west of the côté d’or, provide protection from rainfall.
Average rainfall in the area is 700 ml.
Vintage Variation in Southern Burgundy
Though climate is warmer in recent vintages, ripening Pinot Noir is still precarious. Cool vintage can result in under-ripe tannins. Promoting ripeness of skins and seeds is a priority.
Due to northerly location, weather is very important every year. Variability leads to marked vintage variation.
Frost in Southern Burgundy
If severe, spring frosts are a big problem. May substantially reduce yield if they occur after budburst. Particularly a problem because Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are both early budding.
Becoming more of an issue as warmer than recent winter encourage earlier growth, making vines more vulnerable.
Hail in Southern Burgundy
Can be a problem throughout growing season.
In April-May damage to early growth of the vine can reduce yield, in extreme cases a total loss of crop.
Hail later in season, fruit damage, esp to exposed fruit.
Extra care must be taken to eliminate damaged berries to avoid grey rot tainting the wine. Sorting tables important!
Limited use of anti-hail netting has been permitted from June 2018.
Beyond nets, common preventative action is to seed thunderclouds with silver iodine to induce precipitation a distance from the vineyards.
Notable hail damage in southern Burgundy
Hail tends to be highly localized, but for those impacted the problems that arise can be substantial both in winemaking and commercial terms.
Villages in Côte de Beaune (volnay and pommard) badly effected between 2012-2015.
Rain in southern burgundy
Early in the growing cycle, disrupts flowering and fruit set, lowering yield and leading to uneven ripening.
Extended rain during growing season increases threat of fungal disease.
Too much rain just before harvest can lead to dilution, increase chance of rot.
Drought in southern Burgundy
Present in recent vintages. Hot dry summers have caused berries to shrivel, sometimes cause vines to shut down - causing halt in ripening.
Irrigation not permitted.
Vineyards with high clay content cope with water stress better.
Aspect and elevation of Côte d’Or
Lies on a range of hills oriented North-South, at elevations ranging from 200-400 above sea level.
Side valleys oriented east-west at various points along main slope.
This means that while the main ridge is east facing, there are a range of aspects (many are more south/south east facing).
Best sites = mid slope.
Mid slope means well draining shallow soil, good sunlight interception, comparative frost protection, better ripening potential.
Aligoté soils in Côte d’Or
Vineyards are very top of slopes can have very poor thin soil, plus exposed to cooling winds.
Vineyards at bottom have deeper soils, vulnerable to frost.
These extra cool sites can either be used for aligoté or CdB production.
Aspects of Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais
Aspects more varied here.
Some of the best SE facing slopes of Côte Chalonnaise are found in Bouzeron and Rully, in the Mâconnais the best sites of Pouilly-Fuissé are finalizing the gaining of premier cru status.
Côte d’Or soils
In general, mixture of limestone and clay in varying proportions.
Côte de Nuits - more limestone
Côte de Beaune - more clay, soils are deeper
Soils in Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais
Mixed, range of limestone and clay.
Depth above bedrock varies a lot - due in part to erosion/soil moving down slope
Even in gentle sloping vineyards (such as walled Clos de Vougeot) this is an issue.
Top of slope; too little soil for vines to thrive
Bottom; drainage is poor, soil deeper with more clay = greater fertility. Leads to vigor and shading, contributing unripe fruit.
Aligoté and Gamay in Burgundy
Substantial amount grown until early 20th century.
Some well regarded Aligote is grown in village of Bouzeron, Côte Chalonnaise