Burgundy Flashcards

1
Q

Chablis

A

Name of town and appellation that lies in valley of the river Serein, northern burgundy.
110k northwest of Dijon, slightly cooler climate than Côte d’Or.
All wines are dry, most medium bodied, medium alcohol, zesty, high acid, green apple and lemon.
Generally no/minimal oak, though some fermentation/aging in oak for premier/grand cru.
Most good-outstanding. Can be aged.
Mid-price to premium. A few super premium examples. Generally not as expensive as best wines from Côte d’Or.

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2
Q

Popularity of Chablis

A

Major swings in popularity.
Early nineteenth century = boom because close to Paris.
Plantings shrunk due to phylloxera + powdery mildew and moreso the building of the Paris-Lyons-Marseille railway middle of the nineteenth century.
Could not compete with cheaper wines from south of France.

Rural depopulation after WWI + devastating frost of 1945 = only 500 ha of Chablis left.
In more recent years, demand back up. Plantings at 5500 ha.

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3
Q

Climate of Chablis

A

Continental. Cold winters, warm summers.
Cool northern location means uncertainty about ripening and lots of vintage variation. Early ripening is an advantage.
Average rain 670 mm but spread throughout year meaning moist climate and high fungal disease risk. Plus difficulties in period leading to harvest (rot risk).

Vulnerable to spring frost, hail storms. Both have severely impacted recent vintages.

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4
Q

Options for spring frost in Chablis

A

Smudge pots (smoky, causes air pollution, requires labor)
Sprinklers (assertion is popular but installation and maintenance costs are high. Only for well funded companies or premier/grand cru)
Pruning choices (later pruning = later bud burst, reducing chance of damage to new buds from early spring frost)

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5
Q

Rootstock in Chablis

A

41B (vinifera x berlandieri) widely used; tolerant of limestone soils with a high pH.
420A (riparia x berlandieri) popular for low vigor and tolerance of high pH soil

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6
Q

Training system in Chablis

A

Double Guyot replacement cane training is typical. If one cane fails, the other may survive frost.
Mostly machine harvested but grand cru vineyards are mostly too steep.

Yields are higher than Côte d’Or but recently reduced by hail/frost.

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7
Q

Soils of Petit Chablis

A

Typically higher cooler vineyards, mostly Portlandian soils (hard limestone with less clay)

Predominantly on flat land/gentle slopes slopes. Aspects vary but many north facing sites.
This leads to light bodied wines, high acidity and light intensity. Green apple and lemon.

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8
Q

Soils of Chablis

A

Large area. Kimmeridgian soil + some mixed aspects.
Predominantly on flat land/gentle slopes slopes. Aspects vary but many north facing sites.
This leads to light bodied wines, high acidity and medium intensity. Green apple and lemon.

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9
Q

Soils and Location of Chablis Premier Cru

A

40 named vineyards have premier cru status. Mostly on south and south-east facing slopes, kimmeridgian soil.
Some larger premier cru vineyards have specifically named lieux-dits (plots) within them.
Wines made from these can be named under specific site (Chablis premier cru Troêsmes) or under the larger climat they fall within.

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10
Q

Lieux-dits + Climats

A

A climat in a named vineyard fixed in AOC legislation. A lieu-dit is a named piece of land in the centralized land register.
Wines made in specific lieux-dits can be labeled as such, or labeled with the climat they are within.

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11
Q

Soils and location of Chablis Grand Cru

A

One single grand cru with several named vineyards (climat). This is immediately next to the village of Chablis.
Faces southwest, on the right bank of the river Serein, on kimmeridgian soil.

South facing slopes promote ripening = greater weight and concentration.

Crumbly marl with good drainage, high clay content for water retention (contributes to higher quality)

GC represents just 1% of Chablis production.

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12
Q

Slopes in Chablis

A

Both premier and grand cru vineyards are predominantly on south-facing slopes, often mid-slope.
This means better draining, better frost protection. Southerly aspect means better light interception and therefore riper fruit.
GC vineyards also benefit from wind shelter; a belt of trees separating it from adjacent Petit Chablis vineyards halts winds from the north

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13
Q

Winemaking in Chablis

A

Chaptalisation up to legal limit used regularly in all but warmest years.
Fermentation typically in stainless steel, storage in stainless steel or concrete for a few months for most wines.
Malolactic common to soften acidity. Wines may also spend some time on lees to enhance texture.

GC, and occasionally PC, may be fermented/aged in barrel.

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14
Q

Flavors and use of oak in Chablis

A

Oak aromas not typically desirable, not commonly found in generic Chablis (celebrated for crisp bright citrus/green apple + high acid).
But this is controversial - many top producers choose to use oak.

Dauvissat + Raveneau (old oak)
William Fèvre (new oak)
Or, in converse Jean-Marc Brocard (stainless steel or concrete for GC)

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15
Q

Yields in Chablis

A

Only Chardonnay.
Maximum yields:
60 for Petit Chablis + Chablis
58 for Chablis Premier Cru
54 for Chablis Grand Cru

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16
Q

Négociants in Chablis

A

As in rest of burgundy, traditional distinction between négocient and domaine is breaking down.
Some négociants have bought land, and some domaines supplement their production with négociant business.

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17
Q

Syndicat de Défense de l’Appellation de Chablis

A

Founded in 1933 by William Fevre to combat fraud and address environmental issues

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18
Q

L’Union des Grands Crus de Chablis

A

Voluntary association to promote the quality of Chablis Grand Cru. Limited to those with Grand Cru sites.
Has a quality charter: members must practice sustainable viticulture and harvest by hand.

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19
Q

Pricing for wines of Chablis

A

Name of domaine and appellation drive price.
Petit Chablis and Chablis tend to be mid-priced, sometimes premium.
Premier Cru and Grand Cru usually premium/super premium.

Wines from special producers can sell at extremely high prices (Raveneau, Dauvissat)

In general, prices in Chablis are lower than corresponding wines in the quality hierarchy in Côte d’Or.
2/3 of Chablis by volume is exported. UK biggest destination, followed by USA, Japan, Sweden, Canada.

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20
Q

Côte d’Or and southern Burgundy climate

A

Moderate continental.
Dijon, at the northern end of the Côte d’Or, is around 500 km from the Mediterranean. Cold winters, warm summers.
Short summers = suitable for early ripening Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.
Early autumn typically dry but rain can be a threat at harvest.
Climate of Mâconnais slightly drier and warmer.

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21
Q

Morvan hills

A

To the west of the côté d’or, provide protection from rainfall.
Average rainfall in the area is 700 ml.

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22
Q

Vintage Variation in Southern Burgundy

A

Though climate is warmer in recent vintages, ripening Pinot Noir is still precarious. Cool vintage can result in under-ripe tannins. Promoting ripeness of skins and seeds is a priority.
Due to northerly location, weather is very important every year. Variability leads to marked vintage variation.

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23
Q

Frost in Southern Burgundy

A

If severe, spring frosts are a big problem. May substantially reduce yield if they occur after budburst. Particularly a problem because Pinot Noir and Chardonnay are both early budding.

Becoming more of an issue as warmer than recent winter encourage earlier growth, making vines more vulnerable.

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24
Q

Hail in Southern Burgundy

A

Can be a problem throughout growing season.
In April-May damage to early growth of the vine can reduce yield, in extreme cases a total loss of crop.
Hail later in season, fruit damage, esp to exposed fruit.

Extra care must be taken to eliminate damaged berries to avoid grey rot tainting the wine. Sorting tables important!

Limited use of anti-hail netting has been permitted from June 2018.
Beyond nets, common preventative action is to seed thunderclouds with silver iodine to induce precipitation a distance from the vineyards.

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25
Q

Notable hail damage in southern Burgundy

A

Hail tends to be highly localized, but for those impacted the problems that arise can be substantial both in winemaking and commercial terms.
Villages in Côte de Beaune (volnay and pommard) badly effected between 2012-2015.

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26
Q

Rain in southern burgundy

A

Early in the growing cycle, disrupts flowering and fruit set, lowering yield and leading to uneven ripening.
Extended rain during growing season increases threat of fungal disease.
Too much rain just before harvest can lead to dilution, increase chance of rot.

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27
Q

Drought in southern Burgundy

A

Present in recent vintages. Hot dry summers have caused berries to shrivel, sometimes cause vines to shut down - causing halt in ripening.
Irrigation not permitted.
Vineyards with high clay content cope with water stress better.

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28
Q

Aspect and elevation of Côte d’Or

A

Lies on a range of hills oriented North-South, at elevations ranging from 200-400 above sea level.
Side valleys oriented east-west at various points along main slope.
This means that while the main ridge is east facing, there are a range of aspects (many are more south/south east facing).
Best sites = mid slope.

Mid slope means well draining shallow soil, good sunlight interception, comparative frost protection, better ripening potential.

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29
Q

Aligoté soils in Côte d’Or

A

Vineyards are very top of slopes can have very poor thin soil, plus exposed to cooling winds.
Vineyards at bottom have deeper soils, vulnerable to frost.
These extra cool sites can either be used for aligoté or CdB production.

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30
Q

Aspects of Côte Chalonnaise and Mâconnais

A

Aspects more varied here.
Some of the best SE facing slopes of Côte Chalonnaise are found in Bouzeron and Rully, in the Mâconnais the best sites of Pouilly-Fuissé are finalizing the gaining of premier cru status.

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31
Q

Côte d’Or soils

A

In general, mixture of limestone and clay in varying proportions.
Côte de Nuits - more limestone
Côte de Beaune - more clay, soils are deeper

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32
Q

Soils in Côte Chalonnaise, Mâconnais

A

Mixed, range of limestone and clay.
Depth above bedrock varies a lot - due in part to erosion/soil moving down slope
Even in gentle sloping vineyards (such as walled Clos de Vougeot) this is an issue.
Top of slope; too little soil for vines to thrive
Bottom; drainage is poor, soil deeper with more clay = greater fertility. Leads to vigor and shading, contributing unripe fruit.

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33
Q

Aligoté and Gamay in Burgundy

A

Substantial amount grown until early 20th century.
Some well regarded Aligote is grown in village of Bouzeron, Côte Chalonnaise

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34
Q

Tasting notes for Chardonnay in burgundy

A

Chablis (cool climate): apple, pear, lemon, lime, wet stone. Light to medium body, high acidity.
Côte d’Or (moderate climate): ripe citrus, melon, stone fruit. Medium to medium (+) body, medium (+) to high acidity.

35
Q

Chardonnay growing environment

A

Versatile variety suitable to a range of climates. Results in a variety of styles.
Many top quality examples are grown on limestone/clay soils (burgundy)
Buds early, so can be susceptible to spring frost. But also ripens early, making it suitable for cool regions.
Can produce high yields without loss of quality.

Prone to grey rot, powdery mildew, millerandage, grapevine yellows.
In good growing seasons in burgundy, another challenge is managing vigor; shade and excessive yield can reduce quality of fruit.

36
Q

Pinot Noir tasting notes in burgundy

A

Strawberry, raspberry, red cherry. Village level and above - light oak derived flavors (smoke, clove).
Low to medium tannin (grand cru can have medium (+). Medium alcohol, high acidity.
Can develop earth, game, mushroom notes with time in bottle.

37
Q

Pinot Noir growing environment

A

Buds early, can be susceptible to spring frost. Also ripens early so suitable for cool climates.
Unlike Chardonnay, yields must be limited to produce quality wines.
Delicate variety. Prone to millerandage, downy and powdery mildew, botrytis, fan leaf + leaf roll virus.

In warm climates, tends to ripen too fast (reducing intensity) and berries can shrivel, get sunburn.
In burgundy, concerns are more ripening the fruit fully.

38
Q

Burgundian Clones

A

Many red and white clones used are drawn from the Dijon clone families developed at the University of Burgundy.
These clones now widely used around the world.
Producers must choose whether to plant a single clone (more uniform fruit profile) or plant a mix (greater diversity of grape characteristics). Characteristics include yield, disease tolerance, speed of ripening, fruit characteristics.

A number of producers in burgundy choose to propagate their own vines via mass selection.

39
Q

Cordon de Royat

A

Cordon training system which limits vigor/yield.
High proportion of old wood can harbor disease.
Sometimes used in burgundy.

40
Q

Traditional vine training in burgundy

A

Replacement cane pruned with VSP.

In recent years, many growers have returned to this, as well as an even softer method of cane pruning called Poussard-Guyot.

41
Q

Poussard-Guyot

A

A soft cane pruning method where the system maintains the same sap route every year, with pruning wounds only on upper part of cordon. Reduces number of pruning wounds, seeks to stop Esca and other trunk diseases.

Requires skilled vineyard workers, but can be very helpful in combatting trunk diseases, also aids canopy management during growing season.

42
Q

Planting density in Burgundy

A

Typically around 8000-10000 vines per hectare. There are growers who are much higher.
Denser planting encourages root competition leading to better quality fruit (smaller berries with higher intensity)

43
Q

De-budding in Burgundy

A

Usually before flowering.
Promotes good balance in the vine, but reducing yield so early in the season means that any damage inflicted by hail, frost, fungal disease can have drastic effect.

44
Q

Green harvest in burgundy

A

Allows growers to take into account unpredictable weather (esp hail) however can lead to changes in vine development.

Can cause changes in vine development - vines will overcompensate (excessive growth) in remaining bunches and can dilute grapes.

45
Q

Burgundy maximum yields

A

Regional appellation: 69 red, 75 white
Village level: 40-45 red, 40 white
Some grand crus as low as 35 red, 40 white

46
Q

Organic and biodynamic grape growing in burgundy

A

Becoming more popular among leading growers. However, climate makes this a challenge.
Many vineyards are shared. Organic practices sometimes require a minimum area to be successful. This causes friction.

47
Q

How are grape moths controlled in burgundy

A

Pheromone capsules

48
Q

Fungal disease management in burgundy

A

Powdery, downy and botrytis (grey rot) are controlled via canopy management and spraying

49
Q

Grapevine yellows in Burgundy

A

Recent outbreaks have lead to vigilant monitoring, attempts to restrict the spread.

50
Q

Esca in burgundy

A

Esca and other trunk diseases are significant problems today

51
Q

Timing of harvest in Burgundy

A

Critical given the marginal climate. Storms can lead to dilution and fruit damage.
Judgement to be made: harvesting early preserves acidity but fruit may not be fully ripe.
Harvesting late can lead to a softer wine but there may be weather concerns.

Majority of grapes still picked by hand, availability of workforce to harvest is big consideration

52
Q

Acidification and deacidification in white Burgundy

A

Permitted within EU limits. Deacidification rarely used.

53
Q

Chaptalisation in white burgundy

A

Used when must has insufficient sugar to reach minimum alcohol level required.
Or, more likely, to reach desired alcohol level - adds to perceived mouthfeel

Used to be more common, but recent warmer growing seasons + better canopy management = less necessary.

Maximum enrichment is 1.5-2%

54
Q

Harvesting and sorting for white burgundy

A

Almost all Côte d’Or grapes are hand harvested, definitely for better quality wines.
Typically sorted on sorting tables to remove diseased, damaged, underripe fruit. Especially important for consistent quality in a cool climate.

55
Q

White wine skin contact and pressing in Burgundy

A

Grapes are typically whole bunch pressed; the inclusion of stems aids drainage of the must.
Grapes are usually pressed immediately (rather than a period of skin contact) because Chardonnay is not very aromatic, want to risk the extraction of tannins.

56
Q

White burgundy solids and clarification

A

Must for high quality wine is usually clarified by sedimentation.
Level of solids remaining in the juice vary depending on winemaker; whether they find the flavors they impart desirable.

Must for less expensive wines may be clarified by other quicker methods.

57
Q

Hyperoxidation in white burgundy

A

Practiced by some producers with aim of producing a final wine that is less prone to oxidation.
This may be a response to criticism that protecting the must from oxygen during fermentation has contributed to a problem of premature oxidation.

58
Q

Yeast choices for white burgundy

A

Ambient yeast is a common practice, especially for higher classification levels. Winemakers believe it encourages terroir expression. They are prepared to monitor the fermentation more closely, intervene as necessary (warm up a sluggish ferment).

Some winemakers will inoculate with cultured yeast - particularly for high volume regional wines.

59
Q

Inexpensive white burgundy fermentation

A

Inexpensive and some mid-priced wines will usually in stainless steel or concrete. Temperatures are around 16-18 C to preserve primary fruit aroma, avoid banana flavors of cooler ferment temps.
Wines aged in same containers or older barrels.

60
Q

Expensive white burgundy fermentation

A

Typically fermented and aged in barrel for a creamier and more rounded style.
Temps often rise to 20 C in barrel.

61
Q

Expensive white burgundy aging

A

8-12 months in barrel, in contact with fine lees. If oak is new, or (more likely) a proportion of the oak is new - wine will show oak flavors (vanilla, clove)

62
Q

Percentages of new oak for white burgundy

A

At regional level, new oak is uncommon except from high quality producers.
20-25% is common at village level.
30-50% at premier cru level.
50% and above at grand cru level. 100% is not unheard of.

63
Q

Oak cask size for white burgundy

A

Standard size is 228 liter; known as a pièce. But some producers are using larger (500-600 liter) where the surface to volume ratio is lower. This results in a subtler impact (both oak and oxygen)

64
Q

Malolactic conversion for white burgundy

A

After wine completes alcoholic fermentation, Malo is normal. However, if a fresher character is desired a proportion can have Malo blocked.
Can be carried out in neutral vessels or in oak.

65
Q

Maturation for white burgundy

A

During maturation, wine may be stirred once or several times to agitate lees. This is thought to reduce any reductive flavors and add creamier texture.
White wines are generally more filtered than red; cloudiness is easily visible.

66
Q

Premature oxidation in white burgundy

A

In the early 2000s, reports began to emerge that wines (esp 1996 + following vintages) were showing very advanced flavor and color, after a relatively short period of time in bottle. 
Called premature oxidation (premox).
Multiple causes possible;
changes in vineyard practice leading to higher yields and different chemical composition of the grapes
warmer vintages
later picking times
use of over clean must (resulting from use of pneumatic presses)
too much bâtonnage
lower levels of sulfur dioxide at bottling
quality of corks, and changes in cork treatment before use
(all educated guesses)

67
Q

PN vinification goals in burgundy

A

Due to the delicate character, aromatic nature and relatively light tannins, Pinot Noir has to be vinified carefully. Important aims are to maintain the primary fruit, not overwhelm the delicate fruit with too much new oak

68
Q

Sorting Pinot Noir in burgundy

A

Sorting fruit is common for all but least expensive wine. Especially true when rot or hail has been an issue.

69
Q

Whole bunch vs de stemmed PN in burgundy

A

Whole bunch is the norm as PN is well suited to it.
But 1980s lots of producers switched to destem. Recently whole bunch has made a comeback.

70
Q

Why whole bunch PN in burgundy

A

Producers believe they aid in aeration of the must, can add perfume, freshness, fine tannins.
However, if stems are unripe then green and astringent tannins can be extracted. The resulting lower acidity would not be welcome in warm vintages. 
Some producers use a proportion of whole bunch, depending on vineyard and vintage.

71
Q

Cold soaking in red burgundy

A

PN is low in anthocyanins compared to many other black grapes, therefore cold soaking for a few hours to a few days is common to maximize extraction of color. 

72
Q

Yeast in red burgundy

A

Ambient yeast use is common

73
Q

Fermentation vessels in red burgundy

A

Small open topped vessels are common

74
Q

Why open topped vessels are common for red burgundy

A

Used to facilitate the two most common cap management techniques, pumping over and punching down.

75
Q

Why is cap management so important in red burgundy

A

It is important for the cap to be regularly broken up during fermentation to introduce oxygen (essential for yeast metabolism)
avoid reduction and the production of reductive sulfur compounds (PN is prone to reduction)
avoid production of acetic acid
extract color, tannin and flavor from skins
regulate temperature in must (reaches around 30 C in a healthy ferment)

76
Q

Post fermentation maceration in red burgundy

A

Depends on the ripeness of fruit, and style of wine to be made. Longer periods of 2 to 3 weeks for wines of more concentration and structure. 

77
Q

Pressing wine in red burgundy

A

Wines are pressed off either in horizontal pneumatic presses, or vertical basket presses.
Free run wine and press wine are often kept separately, but may be blended back together before bottling.

78
Q

Racking and aging for red burgundy

A

The wine is typically racked into oak barrels (228 L) for maturation. Aging of 12-20 months common for premium and super premium wines.
Less expensive wine aged for less than one year.

Amount of new oak varies widely across the region/producer style with higher proportion used in grand and premier crus compared to village/generic appellation.

79
Q

Malolactic conversion in red burgundy

A

Usually spontaneous, takes place in the spring following harvest, as the cellars begin to warm up again after cold winter

80
Q

Fining and filtering in red burgundy

A

Mid priced may be fined and lightly filtered before bottling, but many high-level wines may not be

81
Q

Four tiered hierarchy in the Côte d’Or

A
  1. Regional/generic appellations (Bourgogne, Bourgogne Hautes Côte de Beaune)
  2. Communal or village appellations (meursault, gevrey-chambertin)
  3. Premier cru (vosne romanée premier cru, pommard premier cru les rugiens)
  4. Grand cru (richebourg grand cru, bâtard-montrachet grand cru)
82
Q

Percentages of vineyard classifications in burgundy

A

1% grand cru
47% village and premier cru
52% regional appellations

83
Q

Cru sites in Côté Chalonnaise and Mâconnais

A

Côté Chalonnaise, classification stops at premier cru

Mâconnais in final stages of formalizing premier cru status for some of its vineyards

84
Q

Appellations and crus in burgundy

A

84 appellations, including 33 grand crus and 44 village appellations and 7 regional appellations