Bordeaux Flashcards
Describe Bordeaux’s location
SW France, close to the Atlantic. Traversed by the river Garonne and river Dordogne, which merge to form the Gironde estuary.
What separates the two banks of Bordeaux
Vineyards to the west of the Garonne and Gironde form the Left Bank. Vineyards to the east are the Right Bank. Vineyards between the two rivers are Entre-Deux-Mers.
Percentages of grape color plantings in Bordeaux
Nearly 90% of plantings are black. AOC wines are 85% red, 10% dry white, 1% sweet white and 4% rose.
Nearly 60% under vine is Merlot
CS 20% CF under 10%
How did Bordeaux’s specialized merchant system come to be?
Rather than proprietors selling wine, in Bordeaux a merchant middle man is used. This dates back to the 17-18th centuries when these wines were first rising in popularity. An entrepreneurial class of English, German and Dutch moved in and distributed wines, establishing international reputation.
How did the Exposition Universelle de Paris changes the wines of Bordeaux?
In 1855, for this major commercial exhibition (EUP), the Bordeaux chamber of commerce asked the region’s brokers to compile a classification of the wines.
The classification was based on price. All of médoc plus haut brion (in graves) were classed into five bands. Sauternes into three bands.
How much of wine production in Bordeaux is premium?
There are 111,000 hectares under vine and about 70% are inexpensive to mid-priced (Bordeaux or Bordeaux superior). Only 30% are premium or super premium.
A prestigious appellation such as Pomerol only accounts for about 800 hectares.
How does climate affect the wines of Bordeaux
Moderate maritime climate. Cooling influence from the Atlantic to the west.
In the best years, there is gentle warmth throughout the growing season, sufficient rainfall for growth + ripening, relatively dry and warm autumn = steady and complete ripening.
Results = excellent balance of tannins, sugar and acidity. Excellent for longevity of vintages.
What partially protects the left bank of Bordeaux from Atlantic storms? How does this effect the growing environment?
Extensive manmade pine forest.
Estates that fringe the forest (Chevalier in Léognan, many in Listrac in the Médoc) are cooler/less reliable in terms of full ripening. Neighbors to the east do not have this problem.
How much rainfall is there in Bordeaux?
Variable. With an average of 950 mm a year, but with marked variation year to year.
Excessive rain is a key factor in vintage variation.
Climate change in Bordeaux
Has led to hot dry summers, insufficient rainfall.
Hardy varieties planted in Bordeaux can resist temperature extremes but hot dry years (2003) leads to wines with low acidity, lacking balance and often with higher alcohol (growers must wait for phenolic ripeness before picking)
Maritime influence on Right Bank Bordeaux
Less pronounced because of its further east position.
Frost and hail in Bordeaux
Prestigious wineries of the médoc tend to be close to the Gironde estuary (moderating effect).
Hail, more sporadic, has been more of an issue over past decade.
Frost has historically had a huge effect on vintage variation in terms of volume.
2017 - 33% less wine than the area’s 10 year average
Benefits of soils of Bordeaux’s Left Bank
Both the Médoc to the north and Graves to the south have deposits of gravel and stony soil. Some are mixed with clay and sand.
Since the left bank is prone to rainfall, well draining clay allows roots to dry quickly and ripening to continue.
Gravel also helps with heat retention, facilitating slow ripening.
Soils of Bordeaux’s right bank
Much more clay than left bank.
This is a contributing factor to Merlot being the dominant grape. It ripens fully in almost all vintages, and accumulates more sugar and alcohol than CS or CF (historically seen as a benefit).
However, best wines of the area come from grapes grown on the limestone plateau or the gravel section that borders Pomerol. 
Merlot’s growing environment in Bordeaux
Early budding (vulnerable to spring frost), mid ripening (advantage: grapes can be picked before autumn rain).
Susceptible to coulure, drought and botrytis. Lots of sorting needed. Reduced yield a risk.
Ripens fully in cool years, unlike CS.
Dominates right bank + cooler northern Médoc (more fertile soil, high clay content -> enables larger berry size typical of Merlot)
Reaches higher sugar levels + therefore higher potential alcohol levels (compared to CS and CF). This used to be an advantage but climate change has changed that.
Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux
Late budding (some protection from spring frost). Small berry, thick skin with high tannin content.
Prone to fungal disease, especially powdery mildew and the trunk diseases (eutypa and esca).
Ripens late, and has to be grown on warmer soils, which makes it vulnerable to early autumn rains.
CS produces the highest quality fruit when on warm well-drained soils (gravel beds of the médoc).
Cabernet Franc in Bordeaux blends
Contributes red fruit, high acidity, medium tannin.
Malbec in Bordeaux
Mainly replaces by Merlot after hard frost of 1956
Petit Verdot growing environment in Bordeaux
Buds early and ripens even later than Cabernet Sauvignon, unpopular with growers in the past. 
Prone to spring frost, fails to ripen in cooler years.
Does best in the warmer parts of médoc.
Still few plantings but becoming more popular with warmer climate.
Sémillon in Bordeaux’s growing environment
Mid ripening. Susceptible to botrytis (noble rot in right conditions). Can be high yield.
Increasing popularity of Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux
Due to worldwide popularity, there are increasing amounts of dominant/single variety dry Sauvignon Blanc white wines being made.
Muscadelle in Bordeaux’s growing environment
Needs to be planted on well exposed site, as it is very prone to botrytis.
Vineyard density in Bordeaux for top vineyards
Traditionally top vineyards are closely spaced (10,000 vines per hectare) with vines planted one meter apart and Witt one meter between rows.
Close planting makes the best use of expensive land, and is suitable for the relatively infertile soils of the area - provides for moderate vigor.
Close planting adds to cost; more plants, more trellis, specialty over-the-row tractors plus more time and labor; vine training, ploughing, spraying.
Most common vine training in Bordeaux
Most commonly head-trained, replacement cane pruned - canes trained along wire.
Left bank: two canes (double guyot)
Right bank: one cane (single guyot)
Canopy management in Bordeaux
Because of the moderate damp climate, canopy management is key. Must reduce risk of powdery, downy, botrytis.
Leaf removal happens in summer to improve aeration and deter rot. Also exposes grapes to ultraviolet light for ripening help.
Note: when mildew is followed by rain, tractors will struggle - compounding the problem.
Soft pruning in Bordeaux
Eutypa Dieback and Esca have become big problem, rotting vines from the inside.
SP is a new treatment becoming increasingly popular. Small cuts are made whenever possible, leaving extra wood at the cut site to allow wood to dry out. This maximizes opportunity for sap to flow around the plant.
Leaf removal in Bordeaux
Can take place on one or both sides of the row. However, leaves protect from sunburn and extreme heat.
2003 - vineyard managers who removed leaves ended up with raisined grapes.
Less risky to remove leaves late in the season; extreme heat less likely, bunches can benefit from better aeration.
Bunch thinning in Bordeaux
Became approved practice about 20 years ago. By hand or machine.
Used to correct vines with high yield, improve flavor concentration.
Now less popular as some believe it can unbalance the vine/pruning short in winter is a better way to control yield.
Emphasis today is allow vines to find natural balance, avoiding corrective measure unless there is no alternative.
Yields in Bordeaux
Yields have decreased over past two decades. Now average 50 hectoliters per hectare. Wines have benefited!
Harvest in Bordeaux
Used to be random. Teams were hired for a defined period, based on an educated guess as to when harvest should begin.
Today, teams are hired for longer periods with the expectation of some idle days.
Large teams (more than 100) are hired for big estates. Many workers are from other EU countries, and are boarded by the estate (an added cost)
Machine harvesting in Bordeaux
Northern médoc can struggle to find harvest workers because they are a two hour drive from Bordeaux. Machine harvest becomes necessary.
(Some properties use machines if fungal disease pressure is high/weather forecast is rainy)
Grapes intended for high volume will also be picked by machine, for speed. But too estates will all pick by hand.
Grape sorting in Bordeaux
Grapes for inexpensive wines not routinely sorted.
Top estates will sort as they pick, and may sort again in the winery. But a very good vintage + sorting in the field can eliminate the need for this.
Many high quality wines are made plot by plot. Individual plots will be picked for ripeness and small lots of wine will be made.
This requires added care during harvest. Also requires more, smaller vessels. This adds to cost but produces higher quality wines.
Fermentation vessels for red wine in Bordeaux
Takes place in closed vats with pump-overs. Can be wood, stainless steel or concrete. All temperature controlled.
Fermentation for early drinking red wines in Bordeaux
Temperature and extent of post-fermentation maceration on skins depend on style of wine and quality of vintage.
Early drinking wines: mid-range fermentation temperatures, short period of time on skins (5-7 days) to preserve primary fruit, limit extraction of tannins
Pressing red wines in Bordeaux
After wine is drained, the remaining skins are pressed either in pneumatic, or in modern vertical/hydraulic presses. They are gentle and give good results.
Just like free run, the press juice is transferred to 225 liter barrels (barriques) and winemaker will decide later what proportion will make it to the final blend. This will depend on whether the free run needs more structure and tannin.
Malolactic conversion in Bordeaux
Much like the use of cultured yeast, Malo is heavily controlled in Bordeaux.
Can take place in either tank or barrel (potentially barrel leads to a better integration of wine and wood).
Because top quality wines will be tasted the following spring (by buyers and journalists) many estates inoculate to ensure rapid Malo completion. Cellars may also be heated to ensure efficient conversion.
Aging simple wines in Bordeaux
Typically aged in stainless steel, concrete cars or large vats for 4-6 months. Oak chips may be added.
Aging high quality wines in Bordeaux
Matured in French oak barrique. Most common is a mix of new, one year old, and two year old barriques. Some very prestigious properties will use up to 100% new oak. This percentage has been trending down.
Wines will be matured for 18-24 months (depending on quality of wine - wines of higher concentration/tannin need longer)
Traditionally, racking happens every 3 months. Some prefer an undisturbed wine, using micro-oxygenation to prevent reduction and soften tannins.
Blending in Bordeaux
Most estates blend over winters so the wines are ready for en primeur in the spring.
This creates a near-final blend and allows the winemakers to deselect wines for second/third label, or bulk wines for merchants.
A minority blend a few months before bottling so the blending team can assess the evolution of each variety/lot before making decision.
A winemaking consultant is hired to assist with this process by more top properties.
Rosé winemaking in Bordeaux
Traditionally Clairet, made from Merlot and CS. Made as a by-product of red winemaking (saignée).
Modern are usually made in direct press.
White wines for early drinking in Bordeaux (inexpensive and mid-priced)
Pressed directly upon arrival for maximum freshness. Fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel. Inexpensive wines remain in tank for a few months before clarification and bottling.
Mid priced wines are often left on fine lees for 6-12 months for more weight and complexity.
Winemaking techniques for high quality white wines in Bordeaux
Left on skins for about 24 hours for more aromatic and phenolic complexity.
Grapes must be fully healthy or off flavors could be extracted.
Fermented and aged in barriques, varying proportion of new oak. Many producers block Malo to retain freshness and acidity.
Bâtonnage used to be common but many now feel this gives the wines excessive body in relation to their acid.
Professor Denis Dubourdieu and André Lurton
Advocated for an increased focus on SB, skin contact for extractions of aromatics, and reduction of new oak use in both fermentation and maturation.
These ideas heavily contributed to contemporary style commonly found now.
Sweet wine grape growing in Bordeaux
Yields must be kept low, often 1/3 of those for still wines. This ensures very high sugar levels.
Achieved by pruning to a low number of buds, then removal of any fruit that shows signs of disease/damage (would be highly prone to grey mold at the end of the season).
Low yields/reduction in juice created by botrytis mean many estates do not achieve the low 25 hl/ha maximum allowed in top appellations (Sauternes and Barsac). Below 10 is common at top estates. This increases production costs a lot.
Sweet wine harvest in Bordeaux
Harvesters must be well trained and able to identify noble rot (in contrast to grey or black rot - negative). For wines with high botrytis concentration, pickers must make many passes to select properly botrytised/ripe berries and bunches. In some vintages, 10-12 passes. Harvest can last from September to November.
What factors effect level of botrytis present in Bordeaux sweet wines?
Whether conditions are correct for spread of noble rot (varies from year to year)
Position of estates (proximity to areas where most forms most regularly)
Willingness of estates to wait for best time to harvest, risk losing all/part of crop due to adverse weather
Willingness of estate to pay for multiple passes through vineyard to select botrytis affected fruit
As a result, wines may be made from varying proportion of of botrytis and late harvest
Fermentation for sweet wines in Bordeaux
Once picked, grapes are handled as a dry white wine. Fermented in stainless steel, concrete or barrique. Aged for varying periods in any of those.
Top quality are usually barrel-fermented (best integration of oak/fruit flavors) with large quantity of new oak. Then barrel aged for 18-36 months to encourage gentle oxidation for complexity.
Amount of new oak usually 30-50% but some up to 100% (chateau d’Yquem)
Adds significant costs. Wines from less prestigious sweet wine appellations are often unpacked + released a year after harvest.
Bordeaux AOC maximum yields
65 hl/ha for white
62 for rose
67 for red
This can result in low flavor concentration
Maximum yields in Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
59 hl/ha (red)
Where is 50% of the wine of Bordeaux produced
Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
Characteristics of red wines in Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
Mainly made from Merlot, typically medium intensity red fruit, high acid, medium (+) tannin, medium body and medium alcohol
Mostly acceptable to good, inexpensive to mid-priced.
Characteristics of white wines in Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
Made with increasing amounts of Sauvignon Blanc, medium intensity gooseberry, lemon. Medium body, high acid, medium alcohol.
Mostly acceptable to good, inexpensive to mid-priced.
Médoc AOC and Haut-Médoc AOC location
Left bank of the Gironde to the north of Bordeaux. Both appellations are for red wine only.
Médoc AOC plantings
Northern end. Mainly planted equally with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.