Bordeaux Flashcards
Describe Bordeaux’s location
SW France, close to the Atlantic. Traversed by the river Garonne and river Dordogne, which merge to form the Gironde estuary.
What separates the two banks of Bordeaux
Vineyards to the west of the Garonne and Gironde form the Left Bank. Vineyards to the east are the Right Bank. Vineyards between the two rivers are Entre-Deux-Mers.
Percentages of grape color plantings in Bordeaux
Nearly 90% of plantings are black. AOC wines are 85% red, 10% dry white, 1% sweet white and 4% rose.
Nearly 60% under vine is Merlot
CS 20% CF under 10%
How did Bordeaux’s specialized merchant system come to be?
Rather than proprietors selling wine, in Bordeaux a merchant middle man is used. This dates back to the 17-18th centuries when these wines were first rising in popularity. An entrepreneurial class of English, German and Dutch moved in and distributed wines, establishing international reputation.
How did the Exposition Universelle de Paris changes the wines of Bordeaux?
In 1855, for this major commercial exhibition (EUP), the Bordeaux chamber of commerce asked the region’s brokers to compile a classification of the wines.
The classification was based on price. All of médoc plus haut brion (in graves) were classed into five bands. Sauternes into three bands.
How much of wine production in Bordeaux is premium?
There are 111,000 hectares under vine and about 70% are inexpensive to mid-priced (Bordeaux or Bordeaux superior). Only 30% are premium or super premium.
A prestigious appellation such as Pomerol only accounts for about 800 hectares.
How does climate affect the wines of Bordeaux
Moderate maritime climate. Cooling influence from the Atlantic to the west.
In the best years, there is gentle warmth throughout the growing season, sufficient rainfall for growth + ripening, relatively dry and warm autumn = steady and complete ripening.
Results = excellent balance of tannins, sugar and acidity. Excellent for longevity of vintages.
What partially protects the left bank of Bordeaux from Atlantic storms? How does this effect the growing environment?
Extensive manmade pine forest.
Estates that fringe the forest (Chevalier in Léognan, many in Listrac in the Médoc) are cooler/less reliable in terms of full ripening. Neighbors to the east do not have this problem.
How much rainfall is there in Bordeaux?
Variable. With an average of 950 mm a year, but with marked variation year to year.
Excessive rain is a key factor in vintage variation.
Climate change in Bordeaux
Has led to hot dry summers, insufficient rainfall.
Hardy varieties planted in Bordeaux can resist temperature extremes but hot dry years (2003) leads to wines with low acidity, lacking balance and often with higher alcohol (growers must wait for phenolic ripeness before picking)
Maritime influence on Right Bank Bordeaux
Less pronounced because of its further east position.
Frost and hail in Bordeaux
Prestigious wineries of the médoc tend to be close to the Gironde estuary (moderating effect).
Hail, more sporadic, has been more of an issue over past decade.
Frost has historically had a huge effect on vintage variation in terms of volume.
2017 - 33% less wine than the area’s 10 year average
Benefits of soils of Bordeaux’s Left Bank
Both the Médoc to the north and Graves to the south have deposits of gravel and stony soil. Some are mixed with clay and sand.
Since the left bank is prone to rainfall, well draining clay allows roots to dry quickly and ripening to continue.
Gravel also helps with heat retention, facilitating slow ripening.
Soils of Bordeaux’s right bank
Much more clay than left bank.
This is a contributing factor to Merlot being the dominant grape. It ripens fully in almost all vintages, and accumulates more sugar and alcohol than CS or CF (historically seen as a benefit).
However, best wines of the area come from grapes grown on the limestone plateau or the gravel section that borders Pomerol. 
Merlot’s growing environment in Bordeaux
Early budding (vulnerable to spring frost), mid ripening (advantage: grapes can be picked before autumn rain).
Susceptible to coulure, drought and botrytis. Lots of sorting needed. Reduced yield a risk.
Ripens fully in cool years, unlike CS.
Dominates right bank + cooler northern Médoc (more fertile soil, high clay content -> enables larger berry size typical of Merlot)
Reaches higher sugar levels + therefore higher potential alcohol levels (compared to CS and CF). This used to be an advantage but climate change has changed that.
Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux
Late budding (some protection from spring frost). Small berry, thick skin with high tannin content.
Prone to fungal disease, especially powdery mildew and the trunk diseases (eutypa and esca).
Ripens late, and has to be grown on warmer soils, which makes it vulnerable to early autumn rains.
CS produces the highest quality fruit when on warm well-drained soils (gravel beds of the médoc).
Cabernet Franc in Bordeaux blends
Contributes red fruit, high acidity, medium tannin.
Malbec in Bordeaux
Mainly replaces by Merlot after hard frost of 1956
Petit Verdot growing environment in Bordeaux
Buds early and ripens even later than Cabernet Sauvignon, unpopular with growers in the past. 
Prone to spring frost, fails to ripen in cooler years.
Does best in the warmer parts of médoc.
Still few plantings but becoming more popular with warmer climate.
Sémillon in Bordeaux’s growing environment
Mid ripening. Susceptible to botrytis (noble rot in right conditions). Can be high yield.
Increasing popularity of Sauvignon Blanc in Bordeaux
Due to worldwide popularity, there are increasing amounts of dominant/single variety dry Sauvignon Blanc white wines being made.
Muscadelle in Bordeaux’s growing environment
Needs to be planted on well exposed site, as it is very prone to botrytis.
Vineyard density in Bordeaux for top vineyards
Traditionally top vineyards are closely spaced (10,000 vines per hectare) with vines planted one meter apart and Witt one meter between rows.
Close planting makes the best use of expensive land, and is suitable for the relatively infertile soils of the area - provides for moderate vigor.
Close planting adds to cost; more plants, more trellis, specialty over-the-row tractors plus more time and labor; vine training, ploughing, spraying.
Most common vine training in Bordeaux
Most commonly head-trained, replacement cane pruned - canes trained along wire.
Left bank: two canes (double guyot)
Right bank: one cane (single guyot)
Canopy management in Bordeaux
Because of the moderate damp climate, canopy management is key. Must reduce risk of powdery, downy, botrytis.
Leaf removal happens in summer to improve aeration and deter rot. Also exposes grapes to ultraviolet light for ripening help.
Note: when mildew is followed by rain, tractors will struggle - compounding the problem.
Soft pruning in Bordeaux
Eutypa Dieback and Esca have become big problem, rotting vines from the inside.
SP is a new treatment becoming increasingly popular. Small cuts are made whenever possible, leaving extra wood at the cut site to allow wood to dry out. This maximizes opportunity for sap to flow around the plant.
Leaf removal in Bordeaux
Can take place on one or both sides of the row. However, leaves protect from sunburn and extreme heat.
2003 - vineyard managers who removed leaves ended up with raisined grapes.
Less risky to remove leaves late in the season; extreme heat less likely, bunches can benefit from better aeration.
Bunch thinning in Bordeaux
Became approved practice about 20 years ago. By hand or machine.
Used to correct vines with high yield, improve flavor concentration.
Now less popular as some believe it can unbalance the vine/pruning short in winter is a better way to control yield.
Emphasis today is allow vines to find natural balance, avoiding corrective measure unless there is no alternative.
Yields in Bordeaux
Yields have decreased over past two decades. Now average 50 hectoliters per hectare. Wines have benefited!
Harvest in Bordeaux
Used to be random. Teams were hired for a defined period, based on an educated guess as to when harvest should begin.
Today, teams are hired for longer periods with the expectation of some idle days.
Large teams (more than 100) are hired for big estates. Many workers are from other EU countries, and are boarded by the estate (an added cost)
Machine harvesting in Bordeaux
Northern médoc can struggle to find harvest workers because they are a two hour drive from Bordeaux. Machine harvest becomes necessary.
(Some properties use machines if fungal disease pressure is high/weather forecast is rainy)
Grapes intended for high volume will also be picked by machine, for speed. But too estates will all pick by hand.
Grape sorting in Bordeaux
Grapes for inexpensive wines not routinely sorted.
Top estates will sort as they pick, and may sort again in the winery. But a very good vintage + sorting in the field can eliminate the need for this.
Many high quality wines are made plot by plot. Individual plots will be picked for ripeness and small lots of wine will be made.
This requires added care during harvest. Also requires more, smaller vessels. This adds to cost but produces higher quality wines.
Fermentation vessels for red wine in Bordeaux
Takes place in closed vats with pump-overs. Can be wood, stainless steel or concrete. All temperature controlled.
Fermentation for early drinking red wines in Bordeaux
Temperature and extent of post-fermentation maceration on skins depend on style of wine and quality of vintage.
Early drinking wines: mid-range fermentation temperatures, short period of time on skins (5-7 days) to preserve primary fruit, limit extraction of tannins
Pressing red wines in Bordeaux
After wine is drained, the remaining skins are pressed either in pneumatic, or in modern vertical/hydraulic presses. They are gentle and give good results.
Just like free run, the press juice is transferred to 225 liter barrels (barriques) and winemaker will decide later what proportion will make it to the final blend. This will depend on whether the free run needs more structure and tannin.
Malolactic conversion in Bordeaux
Much like the use of cultured yeast, Malo is heavily controlled in Bordeaux.
Can take place in either tank or barrel (potentially barrel leads to a better integration of wine and wood).
Because top quality wines will be tasted the following spring (by buyers and journalists) many estates inoculate to ensure rapid Malo completion. Cellars may also be heated to ensure efficient conversion.
Aging simple wines in Bordeaux
Typically aged in stainless steel, concrete cars or large vats for 4-6 months. Oak chips may be added.
Aging high quality wines in Bordeaux
Matured in French oak barrique. Most common is a mix of new, one year old, and two year old barriques. Some very prestigious properties will use up to 100% new oak. This percentage has been trending down.
Wines will be matured for 18-24 months (depending on quality of wine - wines of higher concentration/tannin need longer)
Traditionally, racking happens every 3 months. Some prefer an undisturbed wine, using micro-oxygenation to prevent reduction and soften tannins.
Blending in Bordeaux
Most estates blend over winters so the wines are ready for en primeur in the spring.
This creates a near-final blend and allows the winemakers to deselect wines for second/third label, or bulk wines for merchants.
A minority blend a few months before bottling so the blending team can assess the evolution of each variety/lot before making decision.
A winemaking consultant is hired to assist with this process by more top properties.
Rosé winemaking in Bordeaux
Traditionally Clairet, made from Merlot and CS. Made as a by-product of red winemaking (saignée).
Modern are usually made in direct press.
White wines for early drinking in Bordeaux (inexpensive and mid-priced)
Pressed directly upon arrival for maximum freshness. Fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel. Inexpensive wines remain in tank for a few months before clarification and bottling.
Mid priced wines are often left on fine lees for 6-12 months for more weight and complexity.
Winemaking techniques for high quality white wines in Bordeaux
Left on skins for about 24 hours for more aromatic and phenolic complexity.
Grapes must be fully healthy or off flavors could be extracted.
Fermented and aged in barriques, varying proportion of new oak. Many producers block Malo to retain freshness and acidity.
Bâtonnage used to be common but many now feel this gives the wines excessive body in relation to their acid.
Professor Denis Dubourdieu and André Lurton
Advocated for an increased focus on SB, skin contact for extractions of aromatics, and reduction of new oak use in both fermentation and maturation.
These ideas heavily contributed to contemporary style commonly found now.
Sweet wine grape growing in Bordeaux
Yields must be kept low, often 1/3 of those for still wines. This ensures very high sugar levels.
Achieved by pruning to a low number of buds, then removal of any fruit that shows signs of disease/damage (would be highly prone to grey mold at the end of the season).
Low yields/reduction in juice created by botrytis mean many estates do not achieve the low 25 hl/ha maximum allowed in top appellations (Sauternes and Barsac). Below 10 is common at top estates. This increases production costs a lot.
Sweet wine harvest in Bordeaux
Harvesters must be well trained and able to identify noble rot (in contrast to grey or black rot - negative). For wines with high botrytis concentration, pickers must make many passes to select properly botrytised/ripe berries and bunches. In some vintages, 10-12 passes. Harvest can last from September to November.
What factors effect level of botrytis present in Bordeaux sweet wines?
Whether conditions are correct for spread of noble rot (varies from year to year)
Position of estates (proximity to areas where most forms most regularly)
Willingness of estates to wait for best time to harvest, risk losing all/part of crop due to adverse weather
Willingness of estate to pay for multiple passes through vineyard to select botrytis affected fruit
As a result, wines may be made from varying proportion of of botrytis and late harvest
Fermentation for sweet wines in Bordeaux
Once picked, grapes are handled as a dry white wine. Fermented in stainless steel, concrete or barrique. Aged for varying periods in any of those.
Top quality are usually barrel-fermented (best integration of oak/fruit flavors) with large quantity of new oak. Then barrel aged for 18-36 months to encourage gentle oxidation for complexity.
Amount of new oak usually 30-50% but some up to 100% (chateau d’Yquem)
Adds significant costs. Wines from less prestigious sweet wine appellations are often unpacked + released a year after harvest.
Bordeaux AOC maximum yields
65 hl/ha for white
62 for rose
67 for red
This can result in low flavor concentration
Maximum yields in Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
59 hl/ha (red)
Where is 50% of the wine of Bordeaux produced
Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
Characteristics of red wines in Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
Mainly made from Merlot, typically medium intensity red fruit, high acid, medium (+) tannin, medium body and medium alcohol
Mostly acceptable to good, inexpensive to mid-priced.
Characteristics of white wines in Bordeaux AOC and Bordeaux Supérieur AOC
Made with increasing amounts of Sauvignon Blanc, medium intensity gooseberry, lemon. Medium body, high acid, medium alcohol.
Mostly acceptable to good, inexpensive to mid-priced.
Médoc AOC and Haut-Médoc AOC location
Left bank of the Gironde to the north of Bordeaux. Both appellations are for red wine only.
Médoc AOC plantings
Northern end. Mainly planted equally with Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.
Haut-Médoc AOC plantings
Covers area closest to Bordeaux city. Soils are warm gravel for CS (50% of plantings) and Merlot (44% of plantings)
Four single commune appellations of Haut-Médoc AOC location
Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Margaux (north to south)
Adjacent to the Gironde estuary + its moderating influence.
Saint-Estèphe AOC growing environment and style
Coolest and most northerly of the 4 prestigious Left Bank communes; closest to the Atlantic.
At 40% it has the most Merlot planted of the 4; it can ripen successfully and is well suited to the clay soils further from the estuary. CS makes up 50% of plantings, performs best of gravel close to estuary.
Due to cooler climate, wines are more rustic, requiring many years in bottle to soften tannins. Some wines can be soften + more accessible, esp from warmer gravel sites or with significant Merlot in the blend.
Large amounts of clay -> useful water retention in dry years.
Pauillac AOC growing environment and style
Second most north LB appellation. High proportion of CS (62%). Often planted on gravel close to the estuary, enabling the variety to ripen fully most years.
Many of the top estates have a higher % of CS in the blend (70-80%), which results in wines of high concentration and great longevity.
Stylistically regarded most structured of the left bank, high tannin, high acid, capacity for long aging.
Saint-Julien AOC growing environment and style
Between Pauillac and Margaux, on the LB.
Similar to Pauillac, lots of CS planted and high proportion of cru classé production.
Very homogenous gravel soil.
Stylistically, mid way between powerful structure of Pauillac and the finesse of Margaux.
Margaux AOC growing environment and style
Furthest south of the LB communes.
Slightly less CS planted, slightly more Merlot.
Stony gravelly soils. Because it’s slightly further south, grapes ripen a few days earlier than the others (7-10 days earlier than more northern Médoc appellations).
Can be an advantage in cool years, or if rain threatens.
However, clay seams mean that some soil can require supplementary drainage - adding to investment required.
Reputation for perfumed wines with silky tannin.
Listrac-médoc AOC and Moulis AOC
Both appellations for red wine. Further from the river than the four single commune appellations.
As a result, less moderating influence from the estuary, less gravel in the soil.
This means the wines are released for consumption slightly earlier. Apart from this, AOC regulations are the same as the four communal appellations. Typically good to very good, mid to premium priced.
Graves AOC
Large appellation. White and red.
From the city of Bordeaux south.
White maximum yield 58
Red maximum yield 55
85% of production is red.
Most wine is acceptable to good, inexpensive to mid-price.
Location and growing environment of Pessac-Léognan AOC
Small subregion within Graves, southern suburbs of Bordeaux.
Gravel soils, moderating effect of the Garonne like top communes of Médoc.
White wine profile in Pessac-Léognan
Blend of sémillon and Sauvignon blanc.
Pronounced aromas, gooseberry, lemon, grapefruit. Vanilla and clove from oak.
Medium (+) body, medium (+) to high acid, medium to high alcohol.
Very good to outstanding, premium to super premium.
Entre-Deux-Mers AOC
Second largest AOC of Bordeaux. Only white wines.
Red wines can be made in the area under the Bordeaux or Bordeaux supérieur AOC.
Difference between Saint-Émilion and Saint-Émilion grand cru AOC
Both appellations cover the same large area. Red wine only.
SE Grand Cru has lower max yields (46 versus 53) and longer minimum maturation (20 months versus 6)
Wine style of Saint-Émilion AOC
Huge range of style from simple/early drinking to grand cru Classé wines.
Best wines typically have pronounced red and black plum fruit, notable vanilla/clove new oak character.
Full body, high alcohol, medium (+) to high acid, medium (+) to high tannin.
Can age for many years.
Merlot dominant (does well on cool clay soils) followed by Cabernet franc and a bit of CS.
Saint-Émilion satellites
4 AOCs close to saint-émilion but further from river Dordogne.
Similar wines, same rules as SE.
Two largest satellites are Montagne Saint-Émilion AOC and Lussac-Saint-Émilion AOC.
Pomerol AOC
Small but prestigious, red wines, Merlot dominant (about 80%). CF next most grown.
Maximum yield 49.
No classification system but many top quality estates. Typically very good to outstanding, premium to super premium.
Top wines similar to Saint-Émilion.
Wines of Pomerol AOC
Pronounced red and black plum, vanilla and clove new oak. Full body, high alcohol, medium (+) to high acidity, medium (+) to high tannin.
Can age for years.
Lalande-de-Pomerol AOC
Larger satellite appellation that allows slightly higher yields than Pomerol AOC
Côtes de Bordeaux AOC
Appellation for red and white created in 2009 for a group of appellations on the right bank.
Some of the communes can append their name before the AOC.
For example, Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux, Cadillac Côtes de Bordeaux.
Maximum yield; 55, 52 if commune name is included
Côtes de Bourg AOC
A similar appellation to côtes de Bordeaux AOC. Dominant grape is Merlot, wines are similar in style and price to Médoc AOC.
Focus on Malbec. At 10% of plantings, largest representation in Bordeaux
Sweet wine appellations of Graves
Sauternes AOC and Barsac AOC
In south Graves. Typically botrytis affected. Lots of sémillon (80% of plantings)
Sauternes and Barsac appellations
Sauternes = largest sweet wine appellation (50% of all production)
Barsac (just north) can label as Sauternes if they wish.
Both have 25 hl yields. In reality much lower yields are needed to ensure grapes are fully ripened before noble rot develops.
Sauternes and Barsac tasting notes
Pronounced aromas of citrus peel, honey, tropical fruit (mango) and vanilla oak notes.
Full bodied, high alcohol, medium to medium (+) acid, sweet finish
Very good to outstanding. Prices range from mid priced to super premium.
Other sweet wine appellations of Bordeaux
Many small sweet wine productions on both sides of Garonne.
Sainte-croix-du-Mont AOC and Loupiac AOC have maximum yields of 40
Premiéres Côtes de Bordeaux AOC maximum yield 45
Can be botrytis or late harvest. Good to very good, inexpensive to mid priced.
Understanding 1855 classification system of Bordeaux
1855 classification based on prices being achieved at the time by wines of médoc (+ château haut-brion in graves) and Sauternes.
There have been a minor modifications but remains essentially unaltered today.
Cru classé wine represents about 1/4 wine produced in the médoc.
Chateau d’Yquem in the 1855 classification
Sauternes ranking first and second growth except d’Yquem which was awarded a special category - premier cru supérieur
5 first growths of Bordeaux
Chateau Lafite Rothschild, Pauillac
Chateau Latour, Pauillac
Chateaux Margaux, Margaux
Chateau Haut-Brion, Pessac (Graves)
Chateau Mouton Rothschild, Pauillac (promoted in 1973)
Graves classification
1959
Based on pricing, and quality as judged by tasting. 16 classified châteaux for red, white or both. All located within Pessac Léognan.
A simple list with no subdivisions!
Saint-Émilion classification
Only applies to some wines within SE grand cru AOC.
Dates back to 1955, revised at approximate 10 year intervals.
Judged on terroir, method of production, reputation, commercial consideration, blind tasting of at least ten vintages.
Three tiers: premier grand cru A and B, and Grand Cru Classé.
The Cru Bourgeois du Médoc classification
Created in 1932.
Cru Bourgeois is a level below Cru classé, but still of superior quality.
Any property in the médoc may apply
In 2010, it was revised so that the label was awarded to individual wines rather than chateaux, as a mark of quality based on an assessment of both production method and finished product.
From 2018 vintage on, chateaux will be classified as one of three tiers of quality (as was done originally). The classification lasts for 5 years.
Cru Bourgeois
Cru Bourgeois Supérieur
Cru Bourgeois Exceptionnel
Controversies of Bordeaux classifications
Some of the classifications have been controversial. Saint-Emilion has been challenged, lawsuits have damaged its reputation and value. The use of Grand Cru is regarded misleading.
The Graves Classification is due for revision, too many high quality Estates not included in current list. That may not happen as proprietors fear of a repetition of disputes that have discredited Saint-Emilion classification. 
Number of estates in Bordeaux
Over 7000. Number of estates is shrinking, as very small properties are being taken over by larger neighbors to create volumes of wine that are more viable commercially. 
Co-ops in Bordeaux
Important still.
About 1/4 of production from 40% of grape growers in 2018.
Production costs in Bordeaux
Bordeaux AOC 0.57 euro per bottle
Médoc estates 2.35
Classed growth 16
This does not include land cost, bank loans, or interest
Main factors in increased cost; increased vine density, harvest costs, much higher viticultural costs, lower yield, grape selection, barrel aging (both extended time and higher proportion of new oak)
Value of Bordeaux wine sales
2018 - more than 4 billion euros, split evenly between France and export (56% sold in France, 48% of that in supermarkets)
Exports are 44% by volume, 52% by value
Top export markets by value: Hong Kong, USA, UK
How is Bordeaux wine sold
La place de Bordeaux
Unique system for selling wine in Bordeaux
Merchants in Bordeaux
Sold wine by producers or co-ops.
Négociants are responsible for 70% of wine sales. They sell to wholesalers/retailers.
Take an average 15% cut of the sale.
Courtiers in Bordeaux
Brokers who handle the relationship between producers and merchants. They charge a fee for this service in the form of % of the sale. About 2% usually.
Négocient allocations in Bordeaux
To get to all 170 countries where Bordeaux is sold, producers much work with many merchants - often as many as 40.
The number of cases each négocient gets is pre-determined by an allocation system. This allows them the same % of each vintage.
Inexpensive Bordeaux in the market
Lots of competition (Chile, Australia) means great majority of Bordeaux has struggled to achieve prices over 1 euro per liter.
Most of it is sold in French supermarkets.
History of en primeur system in Bordeaux
Dates back to period after WWII when chateaux were struggling financially.
However, consumers began to take interest in late 1970s. Fantastic 1982 vintage really helped.
En primeur timeline in Bordeaux
Campaign begins in April following vintage. Barrel samples are provided by estates to be tasted by wine buyers and journalists.
5000-6000 wine professionals assess while wine is still in barrel.
Prices are released through may-June. After, négociants assist with first tranche (sale of small amount of wine). Price is heavily influenced by reputation and expert review.
This first tranche is to gauge willingness to pay the price set.
Price will be adjusted for subsequent tranches. Usually price goes up.
Final customers must place orders for en primeur wine through a fine wine merchant.
Downside to négocient allocations
Have to buy wines from an inferior vintage in order to keep their allocation.
These can stay in the book for years before being sold. This can also happen in years where prices are too high.
Included in en primeur pricing
Wines are sold as futures; a paper transaction where wine is sold up to 18 months before bottling.
Includes the bottled wine being delivered to the storage of a retailer one year later.
The price is “ex cellar”; excludes any taxes due in the final market of the seller.
Is the en primeur system still effective?
A boom in the Bordeaux market (due to interest from China) in the 2000s caused prices to rise considerably. Many chateaux became accustomed to this even in poor vintages (2011)
This led to a crash in the market and many who bought en primeur lost money.
In 2012 chateau Latour announced an end to its en primeur sales. Most prestigious houses can afford to keep the wine and sell when bottled now.
La Cité du Vin
Bordeaux’s wine visitor center. Responsible for a bump in tourism to Bordeaux.
Advantages and disadvantages for estates selling en primeur in Bordeaux
Advantages: ability to test the market by releasing lower priced earlier tranches, early payment/return allowing them to finance next vintage
Disadvantages: potentially selling at lower price than might be obtained for bottled wine, potential for mismanagement/losses by négociants which could damage reputation
Advantages and disadvantages of selling en primeur for final customer
Advantages: get sought after wines, theoretically at lowest prices, option to keep or trade
Disadvantages: wines are bought on opinions about unfinished wines, may not truly reflect finished product, intermediaries could go out of business before wine arrives (négociants, shippers), prices may fall before wine arrives due to economic conditions or quality of following vintages
How does rainfall effect the growing season in Bordeaux?
Rain at flowering -> poor fruit set
Rain throughout growing season -> increased disease pressure
Rain at/following véraison -> unripe fruit + fungal disease
Rain at harvest -> dilution of flavors
What are croupes?
Top estates of the left bank are planted on gravel mounds known as croupes.
Where are most clay soils of the left bank of Bordeaux found?
There are pockets of clay on the left bank, especially in Saint-Estèphe. These wines are robust, but have not achieved the acclaim of those from gravel soils.
Problems with clay on the right bank
In extremely hot years (2003, 2005) the well draining clay can cause drought stress. Especially true in Pomerol where the soils are very shallow.
Gravel soils on the right bank of Bordeaux
Some significant gravel patches in Libournais.
Merlot in a Bordeaux blend
Contributes medium to pronounced intensity fruit (strawberry, red plum) with herbaceous aromas in cool years, cooked blackberry, black plum in hot years. Medium to high alcohol.
Cabernet Sauvignon in Bordeaux blends
Contributes pronounced violet, black currant, black cherry, menthol/herbaceous flavors. Medium alcohol, high acidity, tannins.
Blended because in cooler vintages, struggles to ripen (high acidity, unripe tannin, little fruit)
Petit Verdot in Bordeaux blends
Often less than 5% of the blend.
Contributes powerful deeply colored wine, spice notes and high tannin.
Sémillon in Bordeaux blends
Low intensity apple and lemon, grassy if underripe. Medium body, medium alcohol, medium to medium (+) acidity.
Mostly used to soften SB’s high acid and intense aromas by adding low/medium intensity aromas, weight/body, and medium acidity. Also has strong affinity for vanilla/sweet spice flavors from new French oak.
Prized for its ageability (toast and honeyed notes) in contrast to SB, which can hold but whose flavors do not evolve.
Sémillon in sweet wine blends
In botrytized sweet wines, it contributes pronounced honey and dried fruit (lemon, peach) aromas, plus a waxy texture.
More susceptible than SB. Top Sauternes wines will have more sémillon than SB (chateau d’yquem).
Prized for its ageability (toast and honeyed notes) in contrast to SB, which can hold but whose flavors do not evolve.
Sauvignon Blanc in sweet & dry Bordeaux blends
Contributes grassy and gooseberry notes, high acidity to both botrytized and dry white blends.
Muscadelle in Bordeaux blends
Most is used in sweet wines, contributes flowery and grapey notes.
Not related to Muscat!
Vineyard density for less prestigious vineyards in Bordeaux
Vines for less prestigious sites planted at lower density (Bordeaux AOC usually at 3000-4000 v/hc)
Cordon trained, spur pruned vines in Bordeaux
Some prestigious estates use cordon train, spur prune. They believe it reduces yields, gives better bunch aeration.
Shorting yields in Bordeaux
The practice of heavily shorting yields is in decline. This produced super-concentrated jammy/fatiguing wines. The wines lacked a nuanced sense of place.
Fermentation for red Bordeaux wines meant to age
Temperature and extent of post-fermentation maceration on skins depend on style of wine and quality of vintage.
Wines intended to age in bottle: mid-warm temperature, 14-30 days on skins.
Maceration times are reduced in poor vintages if the fruit is not fully ripe.
Cooperage choices in Bordeaux
Winemakers will often choose several cooperages, for complexity. Level of toast is usually medium to medium plus - but can also be altered for complexity.
Médoc and Haut-Médoc yield and laws
Maximum yield 55 hl/ha.
Wines can only be sold for consumption from mid-June of the year after harvest.
General properties of the four left bank Bordeaux communes
High proportion of gravel soils enabling CS to fully ripen.
All for red wine only, max yield of 57 hl/ha.
General tasting notes for the four left bank Bordeaux communes
Typically pronounced intensity black currant, green bell pepper (especially in cooler vintages) and red plum. Vanilla cedar oak notes.
Medium/high alcohol, high tannin, medium (+) body.
Very good to outstanding quality, premium to super premium price.
Growths in Saint-Estephe
No first growths, some second growths and large number of Cru Bourgeois.
Pauillac growths
Has 3 of the 5 first growths. Also highest proportion of production of cru classé wine (around 85% of production) followed closely by Saint-Julien.
Saint-Julien growths
No first growths, 5 second growths.
Margaux growths
High proportion of cru classé production, one first growth.
Graves Supérieures AOC
for sweet (late pick and/or botrytis) only which allow higher yields than Sauternes (40 versus 25)
Pessac-Léognan wines
Known for high quality, often barrel aged whites + high quality reds.
80% red production.
One first growth from 1855, and all the cru classé properties of Graves.
Reputation for best whites of Bordeaux.
Max yield 54 (both red and white)
Yield and profile of Entre-Deux-Mers
Maximum yield is 65, leaving light flavor intensity, typically acceptable to good, inexpensive to mid price.
Notable factor in regards to high price point of Pomerol wines
Small size of estates (Petrus has less than 12 ha, the left bank first growths average 80-100 each) means very pricey.
What promotes botrytis in Graves (Sauternes + Barsac)
Conditions for noble rot produced by meeting of cold Ciron river with warmer Garonne River (promoting morning mist)
What have Sauternes producers started doing to adapt to changing market?
Sauternes making more dry wine as demand for sweet has dropped over past 30 years
How many properties are represented in 1855 classification
60 leading properties of chateaux from the médoc, one from graves, ranked in 5 tiers first growth to fifth growth.
Tiers of the Saint-Émilion classification
Three tiers: premier grand cru A and B, and Grand Cru Classé.
Unclassified Bordeaux AOCs
Pomerol is the only top quality appellation that does not have a classification system, though some estates have very high reputations.
Estate size and annual production in Bordeaux
Average estate size is rising, is now over 19 hectares.
Annual production fluctuates but sits just over 800 million bottles generally.
