Bordeaux Flashcards
Bordeaux
Bordeaux
History of Bordeaux
17th century - land unsuitable for viti was drained by Dutch residents
Bordeaux - long been centre of wine exports
- created class of merchants and brokers
- established international reputation
1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris
- classificaion based on price in Medoc and Graves
- 5 bands (Sauterrnes 3 bands)
- essentially unaltered till today
111,000 ha planted (70% inexpensive or mid-priced)
- 3% premium
Two rivers flowing through Bordeaux
Garonne and Dordogne which flow into Gironde
Bordeaux climate
Moderate maritime climate
- cooling influence of Atlantic
- sufficient rainfall
- relatively dry autumn
Left bank - partially protected from Atlantic by pine forests (Landes) - cooler and more marginal
- norhtern Medoc is more open to Ocean
Rainfall is variable (950mm)
- excessive rain is factor of vintage variation
- climate change - drier conditions
- fungal disease threat
Right bank - less maritime influence (still a factor)
Frost risk further from Gironde (river has moderating effect)
Climatic conditions supporting balance of wine in Bordeaux
Cooling influence of Atlantic
Gentle heat during growing season
Sufficient rainfall to promote ripening
Relatively dry autumn for steady and complete ripening
Rainfall in Bordeaux and its consequences in growing season
- excessive rain is factor of vintage variation
950mm on average
Flowering - poor fuit set Through growing season - increased disease pressure Following veraison - unripe fruit and fungal diseases Harvest - diluted flavours
Soils Left bank
and its qualities
deposits of gravel (mixed with clay, sand and minerals) and stony soils
(from floodwaters from Pyrenees and Massif Cetral)
All top estates are planted on gravel mounds (croupes)
Soil is not very deep
Drains well - roots dry out fast after rain
- in hot years can mean risk of drought stress (especially on shallow soils)
Great heat retention (releases heat at night to promote slow ripening)
More robust (less acclaimed) wines on clay pockets
Soils Right bank
Far more clay but still with significant patches of gravel
- dominated by Merlot
Limestone plateau and gravel section on borders of Pomerol
Merlot
Early budding (vulnerable to frost) Mid ripening (picked before autumn rain)
Susceptible to coulure, drought, botrytis
- sorting necessary
Can ripen fully in colder years
Dominant on Right bank and cooler northern Medoc
- waterholding capacity of clay enables it to produce large berries - higher alcohol potential
Contributes with med to pronounced intensity
- cold years: strawberry, red plum, herbaceous flavours
- hot years: cooked blackberry, black plum
Med tannins
Med to high alcohol
Cabernet Sauvignon
Late budding (protected from frost) Ripens late (needs warmer soils, vulnerable to autumn rains)
Small, thick-skinned (high tannin content)
Prone to fungal diseases
- powdery mildew
- trunk diseases Eutypa and Esca
Highest quality on warm, well-drained soils - gravel of Medoc
Contributes with violet, blackcurrant, black cherry, menthol or herbaceous flavours
med alcohol
high acidity
high tannin
Cabernet Franc (contribution to Bordeaux blend)
Contributes with:
Red fruit
high acidity
medium tanin
Malbec
mainly replanted with Merlot after frost of 1956
Petit Verdot
Buds early, ripens later than Cabernet Sauvignon
- difficult to grow in Bordeaux (but valued)
Prone to spring frost
Fails to ripen in cool years
Vulnerable to rain around harvest
Does best on warmer parts of Medoc
Often less than 5% of blend
Powerfull, deeply coloured wines
Spice notes
High tannins
Semillon
Mid-ripening
Susceptible to botrytis and noble rot in right conditions
High yields
Light intensity apple, lemon, grassy
Med body, med alcohol, med (med+ acidity)
- often softens Sauvignon Blanc’s more intense flavours and acidity
Strong affinity with vanilla and sweet spice from French oak
Botrytis affected: honey, dried fruit (lemon, peach) waxy texture
Ageability - toast, honey
(Sauvignon Blanc flavours do not evolve)
Sorting
Depends on value of wine and quality of te vintage
High quality wine
- sorted in the vineyard
- by hand on vibrating belt
- optical sorting
If vintage is good - less sorting
Harvesting/vinifying more plots
Many producers vinify plot by plot
- for optimum ripeness (different harvest times)
- creating material for blending
- requires more smaller vessels (adds cost)
Fermentation of red wine
Closed vats with pump-overs
Mostly cultured yeast
Vessels: wood, stainless, concrete (with temp control)
Temperature - depends on style and vintage
- inexpensive - mid temp (5-7 days of maceration)
- Premium - mid to warm (14-30 days of maceration)
Post-ferment maceration is reduced in poor vintages if fruit is not fully ripe
Pressing
Pneumatic press or modern hydraulic, vertical press
- gentle extraction
Winemaker decides on % of press wine (adds structure and tannin)
Size of Barrique
225l
Malolactic
in tank or barrel
Many producers go for rapid completion (cellars may be heated)
- for wines to be tasted following spring by journalists
Maturation
Simple styles
- steel, concrete or large vats
- 4-6 months
- oak chips may be added
Premium
- French oak barriques
- mix of first, second and three year old
- up to 100% new (trend is decreasing)
- usually med to med plus toasting
- 18-24 months (depending on quality)
- more concetrated wines need longer
- traditionally racked each 3 months
Blending
2 approaches:
Early (spring after harvest)
- to present wines in spring
- blending over winter
- near-final blend
- deselection of wine for second or third label and bulk to sell
Few months before bottling
- blending team can assess evolution of each variety and lot before making decision
- winemaking consultants
Muscadelle
Very prone to botrytis
Contributes with flowery, grapey notes
Not related to Muscat
Planting density
- 000 vines per hectare
- suitable for relatively infertile soils
- moderates vigour
- adds cost for plants and trellising
- special over the row tractors
- more time needed for management
- best use of expensive land
Less prestigious appellations often planted at lower density
Vine training
Cane pruning
- canes trained along wires
- Double Guyot (Left Bank)
- Single Guyot (Right Bank)
Cordon-pruned (rare)
- spur-pruned
- natural reduction of yield and aeration to bunches
Canopy managemet
Important to reduce incidence of downy mildew, powdery mildew and botrytis bunch rot
Leaf removal in summer
- improve aeration and deter rot
- aids ripening
‘Soft pruning’ to fight Eutypa dieback and Esca
Pruning short in winter instead of greenharvesting
- better vine balance
Average yield
50 hl/ha average
Harvest
Teams are hired for longer periods - expected paid idleness
Workers from other EU countries
Remote or high yielding sites are picked by machine
Rose winemaking
Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon mainly
In the past made by bleeding off (by-product)
Now direct pressing
2 styles:
- deeper coloured Clairet
- lighter coloured rose
White winemaking
Pressed directly at arrival or left on skins (up to 24h)
Inexpensive - cold ferment in steel
Mid range - left on fine lees for 6-12 months
Higher quality
- fermented and aged in barriques (proportion new)
- many block malo
- may use batonnage
Prof. Denis Dubourdieu and Andre Lurton
- focus on Sauvignon Blanc
- skin contact
- less new oak
Viticulture for sweet wine in Bordeaux
Usually 1/3 of yield for still wines
- pruning to low levels of buds
- removal of any fruit showing disease or damage
- below 10 hl/ha is common
- max yield 25 hl/ha (Sauternes and Barsac)
- high production cost
Harvest can lst from September to November
- up to 12 passages
Level of Botrytis depends on:
Whether conditions are correct for spread of noble rot
Proximity to areas where mist forms
Willingness to wait for the best times to harvest and risk losing some fruit due to weather
Willigness to pay pickers for multiple passes
Winemaking options for sweet wine in Bordeaux
Once picked, handled as white wine
Ferment in steel, concrete or barriques
Aged for varying periods in any of those containers
Top-quality typically barrel-ferment with high proportion of new oak and barrel aged for 18-36 months
- encouraging gentle oxidation
- new oak from 30 to 50%
- Yquem 100% new oak
Less prestigious wines are often unoaked