Australia’s most populous state, consumes far more wine than it produces, but its wine geography is developing rapidly. The Hunter Valley (now an official wine zone), 130 km/80 miles north of Sydney, has always had a special hold on the affections (and wallets) of Sydneysiders. It is also one of the internationally known regions, notwithstanding its relatively small contribution (less than 3%) to the country’s total crush, and its perverse climate. That climate is abnormally hot for a fine wine district, although the heat is partially offset by high humidity, by afternoon cloud cover, and by substantial rainfall during the growing season—less beneficially in the years in which most of the rain falls during harvest. Out of this climatic witches’ brew comes exceptionally long-lived dry sémillon, the best peaking somewhere between ten and 20 years of age and assuming a honeyed, buttery, nutty flavour, and texture which suggests it has been fermented or matured in oak, when (traditionally) none was used. Most remarkable is the alcoholic strength, often as low as 10%. Since 1970, chardonnay also has proved its worth: Australia’s first Chardonnays of note were made in the Hunter Valley by Tyrrell’s. Here the lifespan is usually shorter, but there are exceptions. Whether young or old, Hunter Chardonnays are generous and soft, with peachy fruit and considerable viscosity. shiraz was the traditional red counterpart to Semillon in the Hunter, making extremely distinctive, moderately tannic, and long-lived wines with earth and tar overtones, sometimes described as having the aroma of a sweaty saddle after a hard day’s ride. At 20 to 30 years of age, the best acquire a silky sheen to their texture and move eerily close to wines of similar age from the rhône Valley in south east France. cabernet sauvignon is another relatively new arrival, planted for the first time since the 19th century at Lake’s Folly winery in 1963. By and large, Hunter Valley wines tend to be more regional than varietal in their statement, a tendency which becomes more marked with age. Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, and Pinot Noir are among prominent varieties which have been tried and found unsuited to the climate and terroir. verdelho has made a remarkable comeback (highly regarded in the 19th century, then all but forgotten) as a soft, flavoursome wine requiring neither oak nor patience to show its wares. Overall, the Hunter Valley produces better white wines than it does red, with Semillon its one unique contribution. If one is to differentiate the Upper Hunter, a separate viticultural subregion well to the north, from the Lower Hunter, the bias towards white wine becomes more acute in the former. Rosemount once enjoyed acclaim for its Upper Hunter Chardonnay, although the company all but abandoned the district in the 21st century. Nowhere in Australia is the rate of change and the pace of growth more apparent than it is in New South Wales. The development of viticulture along the entire length of the western (or inland) side of the Great Dividing Range could not have been foreseen at the start of the 1990s, but from the end of the 20th century it has been making a significant contribution to the national crush. The principal zones are the Central Ranges Zone and the Southern New South Wales Zone, providing two and a half times as much wine as the Hunter Valley. The former takes in the regions of Mudgee, Orange, and Cowra; the latter takes in the regions of Hilltops, Canberra District, Gundagai, and Tumbarumba. Of these, Mudgee is by far the oldest, with an unbroken history of viticulture and winemaking stretching back to 1858. It is first and foremost red wine country, however well the ubiquitous Chardonnay does here. Indeed, Mudgee was the source of a precious virus-free clone of Chardonnay almost certainly brought to Australia in the early 19th century. As with the Hunter Valley, Mudgee has never been attacked by phylloxera. The climate is as hot as that of the Hunter Valley, but the summer rainfall is significantly lower, and it is rare for harvest rain seriously to interrupt proceedings. The red wines—Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon—are deeply coloured and intensely flavoured, and are ideal blend components for the products of the Hunter Valley’s frequent wet vintages. Both pernod ricard and treasury wine estates have largely abandoned Mudgee, and the region’s biggest winery, Robert Oatley Vineyards, has also scaled back its Mudgee brands. As a result of all this, the vineyard area has declined. elevation is as important as latitude in shaping the climate (and the ensuing wine style) of the regions south down the Great Dividing range to Orange. With most of its vineyards established on hillsides forming part of the extinct volcano Mount Canobolas at elevations of between 600 and 1,000 m, Orange is the coolest of these regions (apart from the southern outpost of Tumbarumba in the Australian Alps). Zesty, lively Chardonnay, some of Australia’s best Sauvignon Blanc, and midweight Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Shiraz with clearly articulated varietal character are the order of the day. Here, as in the Hilltops region (which produces wines of slightly fuller style and weight), warm but not excessively hot summer days and cold nights are followed by a cool, dry autumn which assists in the slow ripening and relatively late harvest dates. McWilliam's has thrown its lot in with the Hilltops region for reds and Tumbarumba for whites; indeed, many small producers in other New South Wales regions are either growing or sourcing white grapes from Tumbarumba. Canberra District wineries are mostly small, clustered just outside the border of the Australian Capital Territory, but rely heavily on tourist (and local resident) trade to promote cellar-door sales. The climate is not dissimilar to that of Orange and Hilltops: strongly continental with warm to hot days, cold nights, and a dry summer. Riesling, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Shiraz, and Viognier need vineyard site selection, but with appropriate matching can be truly excellent. Cowra (and nearby Canowindra) is significantly warmer, basically because the vineyards are at a lower elevation. Here broad acre farming is made easy by the flat plains, and yields (with the aid of irrigation, of course) are substantial. Softly fleshy Chardonnay is the mainstay, with soft Cabernet Sauvignon, Shiraz, and Merlot seldom achieving enough concentration and structure to match the quality of Chardonnay. The Big Rivers Zone, encompassing Riverina, Perricoota, and the New South Wales side of the Murray Darling and Swan Hill regions, which it shares with Victoria (they fall on both sides of the Murray River, the border between the two states), produces 75% of the state’s grape crush. Riverina (sometimes called the Murrumbidgee Irrigation Area, or MIA) is centred around Griffith 450 km/275 miles south west of Sydney. With the notable exception of botrytized Semillon (made in a sauternes style), the wines are on a par with those produced in the Perricoota, Murray Darling, and Lower Murray regions. Replanting in the late 1990s and early 2000s put increasing focus on Chardonnay, Shiraz, Merlot, and Cabernet Sauvignon, while Tempranillo and Italian varieties such as Pinot Grigio, Vermentino, Fiano, Sangiovese, and Barbera are the newest arrivals. Substantial quantities of muscat gordo blanco and the multipurpose sultana are still harvested. High yields are sought, and under normal conditions Chardonnay is the best variety. It takes a cool year for the red varieties to rise above pedestrian quality. Overall the wines reflect the very warm climate and the quasi-hydroponic growing regimes. The technical excellence of the wineries assures clean, fault-free, mildly fruity wines well suited to the drinker of cask wine (in boxes), and to the requirements of overseas bulk markets such as the own brands of the British supermarket chains.