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AS TEXTILES > AS Textiles > Flashcards

AS Textiles Flashcards

1
Q

Name 7 types of cellulose fibre

A

cotton, linen, ramie, jute, hemp, pineapple, banana, bamboo

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2
Q

Name 7 types of protein fibre

A

wool, silk, cashmere, mohair, angora, llama, vicuna

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3
Q

Is cotton environmentally friendly

A

No. It is mostly made using pesticides which damages the ecosystem by killing insects and makes workers ill. It is only environmentally friendly if it is grown organically or it is from a sustainable source.

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4
Q

General properties of cellulose fibres

A
  • strong
  • good at absorbing moisture
  • non static because they always contain some moisture
  • can be washed and ironed at high temperatures
  • crease badly and shrink but can be given a special finish to overcome them
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5
Q

What are the importance of nodes in linen

A

Nodes on the stem of the flax plant give linen its ‘slubbed’ appearance. The more nodes on the stem and, therefore the more irregularities in the fabric, make the final fabric cheaper.

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6
Q

Properties of Ramie

A
  • one of the strongest natural fibres (8x stronger than cotton)
  • eco-friendly fibre: resistant to bacteria, mould and mildew, rot or insect attack and light damage
  • very comfortable
  • highly absorbent
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7
Q

Properties of Linen

A
  • slubbed appearance
  • creases very badly
  • quick drying
  • highly absorbent
  • cool to wear
  • softer the more it is washed
  • resists dirt and stains
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8
Q

Properties of Cotton

A
  • cool to wear (unless brushed)
  • slow drying
  • highly absorbent
  • creases easily
  • durable: resists abrasion
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9
Q

Variations of cotton

A

poplin, seersucker, drill, damask, jersey, lawn, denim, corduroy, terry toweling, gingham, velvet, muslin

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10
Q

Variations of wild silk

A

dupion, tussah silk, shantung

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11
Q

Variations of cultivated silk

A

chiffon, crepe, damask, satin, twill, voile

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12
Q

Properties of cultivated silk

A
  • high lustre because worm dies in cocoon which leaves a smoother filament
  • elastic: creases drop out
  • can absorb up to 1/3 of its weight in water without feeling wet
  • non- static because it always contains some moisture
  • cool in summer, warm in winter
  • sensitive to perspiration
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13
Q

Properties of wild silk

A
  • dull lustre, duller colour than cultivated
  • coarse, more ‘rustic’ looking fabric
  • slubbed appearance
  • more sensitive to perspiration (causes rot)
  • harsher/heavier handle than cultivated silk
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14
Q

Goretex

A
  • repels liquid while letting water vapor pass through. The fabric has ‘pores’ that are big enough to let perspiration evaporate through them, but too small to let water droplets in.
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15
Q

Kevlar

A
  • used in the armed forces and police services. The strong Kevlar fibres a woven together so tightly that it is anti-ballistic (stab and bullet proof) but still lightweight enough to be worn comfortably.
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16
Q

Polar fleece

A
  • made from recycled plastic bottles.
  • warm, lightweight, hydrophobic and breathable, easy to wash, dries quickly, warm when wet
  • not as absorbent as natural, generates static, not windproof, flammable so needs to be treated
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17
Q

Melt Spinning

A
  • components are added in chip form
  • introduced to a heat element and forced through spinneret
  • dried with cold air
  • filaments are strong, smooth, crease resistant and very stretchy (elastane)- ideal for sportswear
  • polyamide (nylon), polyester, elastane
18
Q

Dry Spinning

A
  • a chemical solvent is used to dissolve components
  • forced through spinneret and dried using warm air to remove solvent
  • filaments are soft, smooth and light resistant- ideal for lingerie and linings
  • acetate and triacetate
19
Q

Wet Spinning (ban marie)

A
  • chemical is used to dissolve components
  • forced through spinneret which is located at bottom of spinning duct which is filled with water
  • the water removes the solvent and the filaments dry during the stretching process
  • filaments are skin friendly, wash well, dry quickly, strong, shiny, soft
  • acrylic and viscose
20
Q

Importance of twisting yarns

A
  • the type of twist (‘z’ or ‘s’) determines the strength of the yarn
21
Q

‘Z’ Twist

A
  • Z twists are normally tighter than S twist and are used in weaving, machine thread and tighter knitting yarns
22
Q

‘S’ Twist

A
  • S twist yarns are usually looser than Z twist and is therefore weaker, softer and bulkier which is ideal for knitting
23
Q

Spun Yarns

A
  • these are made by mechanically assembling and twisting together staple fibres eg. cotton, linen, wool, and spun silk
24
Q

Filament Yarns

A
  • made from continuous filaments of silk or synthetic fibres

- can be mono-filament (one single filament) or multi filament

25
Q

Core- spun yarns

A
  • eg. elastane
  • staple fibres are spun around the core, making it more comfortable to be worn as the core is sheltered by other yarns
  • can be used in microencapsulation
26
Q

Fancy yarns

A
  • chosen primarily for their appearance
  • different forms of spinning can create different effects eg. slubs, loops
  • can make a fabric more interesting, they are generally expensive
27
Q

Bulked yarns

A
  • bulk is created by manipulating staple fibres with heat and moisture to create a thicker and softer yarn
28
Q

Textured yarns

A
  • textured yarns are made from thermoplastic synthetic filament yarns
  • heat is used to add crimps, coils or loops to the yarn
  • adding texture adds warmth, makes it more elastic and increases absorbency
29
Q

Worsted

A
  • LONG staple fibres are used to create a strong, smooth yarn
  • suitable for woven wool fabrics and suiting
30
Q

Woolen

A
  • short, staple fibres used to create soft, light, bulky yarns
  • suitable for knitting: hand and machine
31
Q

Cashmere

A
  • Kel goat from India, Mongolia, Iran
  • shorn once a year
  • 24 goats to provide enough wool for a cashmere coat
  • lack of availability means it’s expensive
  • soft, luxurious handle and appearance
  • two layers: softer, downier hairs are the most luxurious
32
Q

Carding

A
  • breaks up unorganised clumps of fibre and aligns the individual fibres so they are more or less parallel with one another
33
Q

Properties of wool

A
  • natural crimp: makes it elastic and crease resistant
  • very warm: overlapping scales are insulating
  • heat and moisture can mould fibres
  • very absorbent
  • natural oil in the fibres can be slightly water repellent
  • can irritate skin
  • shrinks when washed harshly
34
Q

Variations of sheep’s wool

A
  • merino wool: most expensive, fine and soft appearance, resists pilling
  • lamb’s wool: the hair from the first time the sheep is ever shorn, softer and more expensive than normal sheep’s wool
35
Q

Proban

A
  • trade name for a fire retardant finish
36
Q

Where would fire retardant finishes be used

A
  • furnishings intended for public spaces, Formula 1, the fire service, armed forces etc.
37
Q

What is flammability dependent on

A
  • the more oxygen that can permeate a fabric, the faster it will burn
  • the means bulkier knits/ looser weaves and brushed fabrics are more flammable
38
Q

Describe the flammability of synthetic fibres

A
  • synthetic fibres typically melt rather than burn and if they do set alight they are usually self-extinguishing
39
Q

Brushing

A
  • physical finish
  • wire rollers are brushed over fabric and raise the top layer of fibres to create a nap
  • provides fabric with more insulation, makes it softer
  • more flammable
  • End Uses: socks, pjs, throws, baby clothing
40
Q

Calendaring

A
  • fabric is passed through heated rollers and placed under a lot of pressure
  • improves lustre, changes surface effects
  • CHINTZ: impregnates fabric with resin- makes it more firm and lustrous
  • MOIRE- watermark
  • emboss- engraved rollers
  • End Uses: chintz furnishings, table cloths, blinds, curtains, embossed fabric
41
Q

Water Resistance

A
  • fabric treated with fluorochemical resin
  • makes them water and wind proof, abrasion resistant
  • End Uses: sports clothing, rain wear, bags and accessories, shoes
42
Q

Stain Resistance

A

eg, Teflon, Scotchguard

  • lends fabric hydrophobic qualities
  • environmentally friendly process- no chlorine
  • degrades slowly

AS TEXTILES (3 decks)

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