Active ingredients (Vitamins) Flashcards
Vitamin C skin benefits?
Antioxidant, collagen production and inhibits pigment
Vitamin C mechanism of Action?
- Antioxidant: Neutralises free radicals to protect collagen degradation and support synthesis
- Collagen production: Co-factor for enzymes prolyl and lysyl hydroxylase, helps cross link of collagen molecules (building blocks) to strengthen and stabilise the fibres
- Stimulates Gene Expression: Stimulates pro collagen I and II gene transcription
Pigment Inhibitors: inhibits tyrosinase enzymes, the melanin synthesis pathway that stimulates pigment
What’s the Vitamin C biologically form?
L-Ascorbic acid
Vitamin C clinical indicators (suitable)?
- Photodamage
- Acne
- Rosacea
- UVR exposure
- Pigment disorders: ephelides, freckles, lentigines
- Post inflammatory hyperpigmentation
- Rhytids
- Dehydrated skins
What are the 2 forms of niacinamide?
Niacin/Nicotinic acid an niacinamide
Where is niacinamide derived from?
Nicotinic acid
Niacinamide skin benefits?
- Barrier protection
- Anti-ageing
- Anti-inflammatory
- Antioxidant
- Skin lightening
Niacinamide Mechanism of action?
- Barrier protection: Reduce TEWL, ceramide synthesis and increase inter-corneocyte cohesions
- Anti-ageing: Increase collagen production, keratin, filaggrin. Reduces rhytids and evens texture
- Anti-inflammatory: inhibits of inflammatory cytokines (IL-12, IL-1, TNF-α)
- Antioxidant: Protects cellular membrane and oxidative damage caused by ROS
- Skin lightening: Inhibits transfer of melanosomes from melanocyte to keratinocyte
What is Vitamin B5?
- D-Panthenol, or provitamin B5, panthenol, pantothenyl alcohol
- 2 isomeric form: D-panthenol and L-panthenol
D-Panthenol Clinical indicators?
- Dehydration
- Dry, flaky and sensitive skin
- Reactive skin types
- Burns
- Atopic dermatitis, eczema, psoriasis
- Irritated skin
- Skin sensitised by retinoid therapy or other sensitising agents
- Conditions of impaired barrier function
- Healing skin
- Hair conditioning
D-Panthenol Skin Benefits?
Moisturising, improve barrier function and enhance wound healing
D-Panthenol mechanism of action?
- Moisturising: Act a humectant and decrease TEWL to retain moisture/hydration
- Improve barrier function: Pantothenic acid synthesised carbohydrate, lipid and proteins
- Enhance wound healing: Pantothenic acid accelerates epithelialisation and increase fibroblast = improve wound heal processes
Where is vitamin A derived?
beta-carotene
Retinoid mechanism of action?
- Regulating SC thickness: Accelerate corneocytes shedding (SC thinning) = improvese skin texture, reduce epidermal pigment faster
- Regulate epidermis proliferation: Differentiate keratinocyte production in epidermal layers
Trigger hyperplasia (more cells) by stimulating basal cell mitosis
Stratum granulosum thickens and keratinocyte enlarges = increasing adhesion = process thickening epidermis and thinning SC - Effect on Acne: Reduction of comedones from hyperplastic response formation and reduce inflammatory response P.acnes
Retinol, retinoic acid (tretinoin, isotretinoin) and retinaldehyde differences?
- Retinol: Improve wrinkle, texture and fine lines
- Retinoic acid (tretinoin, isotretinoin): Acne, psoriasis, chronic inflammation, anti- wrinkle
- Retinaldehyde: Anti-wrinkle
