2B.4 Flashcards

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1
Q

What is fetch?

A

distance blown over which the wind has blown

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2
Q

What areas of the UK have large fetches?

A

Lands End in Cornwall over the Atlantic Ocean.

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3
Q

What areas of the UK have smaller fetches?

A

Dover in Kent, from weak English channel.

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4
Q

How do waves move across the ocean?

A

as ocean swells

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5
Q

How do waves break?

A

shallower watre = increases friction = base slows = top collapses

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6
Q

What are destructive waves?

A

where backwash>swash

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7
Q

What are constructive waves?

A

Where swash>backwash

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8
Q

What are differences between destructive and constructive waves?

A
Destructive = long fetch. higher energy, reduces beach material, flat beaches, 
Constructive = long wavelength, deposits sediment, low energy, builds beaches, short fetch
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9
Q

What are swell waves?

A

wave/ ocean systems that arent affected local winds creating flat waves.

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10
Q

How are swell waves created?

A

1) large scale winds blow
2) these travel 1000s of miles
3) over time the waves regulate
4) can be disrupted by storms

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11
Q

What are cross-seas?

A

Sea waves and one or more system of swell waves.

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12
Q

What is beach-morphology?

A

the dynamic shape of a beach including width and slope and other features as berms

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13
Q

What do summer beaches have?

A

steeper
Constructive wave
dissipated energy

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14
Q

What do winter beaches have?

A

destructive waves

undertows makes is dangerous

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15
Q

Why is steeper in summer?

A

because there is more deposition which is used to build up beaches.

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16
Q

What does backwash cause?

A

rip =drags sediment back as the next waves arrives over the top

17
Q

Why do beaches change over time?

A

sediment supply varies (due to dams)
interference in supply (due to coastal management)
Changes in climate (uk shorter summer)

18
Q

What is a storm beach?

A

high energy deposition of coarse sediment

19
Q

What are berms?

A

shingle and gravel from summer deposition

20
Q

What are offshore ridges/bars?

A

destructive waves erosion and deposition of sediment

21
Q

What is a wave cut platform?

A

a gently sloping area of rock that is at the base of a cliff where waves converge.

22
Q

How are wave cut platforms formed?

A

1) waves undercut forming a wave-cut notch
2) cliff collapses, the broken cliff erodes the remaining cliff
3) This repeats causing the cliff to retreat

23
Q

What is an example of wave cut platform?

A

Whinnysfold Scotland cruden bay

24
Q

What are the two main coastal erosion processes?

A

abrasion

hydraulic action

25
Q

What is abrasion?

A

grinding sand along cliff foot

26
Q

What is hydraulic action?

A

waves advance into small faults forces air into rock gaps the air is trapped then expands

27
Q

What is attrition?

A

rocks banging together breaking apart

28
Q

What is solution?

A

acids in the water dissolve materials eg Chalk calcium carbonate

29
Q

What are coatal erosion landforms?

A
headlands and bays
coves
caves
arches
cliffs
blowholes
30
Q

What will global warming cause?

A

accidification of the oceans making erode cliff faces

31
Q

What is a blowhole?

A

when a cave in a clifface with a vertical cliff upwards which is exposed to erosion and wave energy breaks the gap

32
Q

What is aggrade of a beach?

A

builds up a beach increasing sediment.

33
Q

What degrade of a beach?

A

erode beaches reduces sediment?