24 - Tokaj

Question 1

Where is the region of Tokaj located?

Answer 1

foothills of Carpathian mountains in north east of Hungary.

Question 2

What is the climate of Tokaj?

Where are the best vineyards located?

Answer 2

moderate

hillside slopes with southerly aspects

Question 3

What topographical feature of Tokaj enables it to make sweet wines?

Answer 3

Bodrog and Tisza rivers and their tributaries generate early morning humidity ->development of noble rot

Question 4

What are the 3 grape varieties used for making of Tokaji wine? What do they each contribute to a blend?

Answer 4

Furmint: 
most widely planted. 
concentrated
high acid
apples in youth -> honey, nuts with age

Harslevelu:
late ripening
perfume

Sarga Muskotaly (Muscat Blanc a Petits Grains): 
aromatic

Question 5

Why do pickers of grapes often pass through the vineyards several times?

Answer 5

Depending on degree of noble rot development, different styles of wine can be made from each vintage.

Pickers may separate grapes into 3 categories that are then made into variety of different styles

1. aszu (rotten) grapes
2. unaffected by noble rot
3. Szamorodni (as it comes) - partially affected

Question 6

What are the traditional vs. 2013 laws concerning Tokaji sweet wines?

Answer 6

Traditional:
minimum RS was 60 g/L
scale of 3-6 puttonyos
24 months in oak
could be released 4th year after harvest
sweetest wines labelled Aszu Eszencia with minimum 180 g/L RS

2013 Laws:
minimum RS raised to 120 g/L (double what it was traditionally) = level needed for wine of 5 puttonyos
Any wine with less than 120 g/L (5 puttonyos) labelled Late Harvest or Tokaji Szamorodni depending on how they were made
shorter ageing requirements: minimum 18 months in oak. Wines can be released 3rd year after harvest

the term Aszu Eszencia absolished though Tokaji Eszencia still exists (wine made from free run juice of aszu berries)

Question 7

What are the two styles of dry wines commonly made in Tokaj?

Answer 7

Dry wines without botrytis: allows producers to make wine in years where this is not much noble rot.
vary in style from simple, unoaked to concetrated age-worthy blends usually aged new oak. Both usually made from Furmint

Tokaji Szamorodni: may be dry (szaraz) or sweet (edes) and made from Szamorodni grapes (partially affected by noble rot). must be aged in cask for 1+ year and 2 years old before release.

the casks are not filled completely - enables flor-like yeast to form naturally (similar to fino sherry) to produce oxidative character

Question 8

What are the the styles of sweet wine made in Tokaj?

Answer 8

Aszu wines: starts with base wine made from healthy grapes, in which the aszu berries are macerated - this happens before during or after fermentation. maceration lasts 12-60 hours. mixture is pressed and matured in oak. puttony is the unit indicating level of sweetness.
Tokaji is deep amber, high acid, intense aromas, orange peel, apricots, honey.

Tokaji Eszencia: made using just the free-run juice of aszu berries. the must is so sweet it can take years to ferment. wines are low in alcohol (less than 5% abv). legal minimum level of RS is 450 g/L. very high acid. concentrated flavor. can retain freshness century or more.

Modern style sweet wines: usually made from Late Harvest grapes, some made with botrytis fruit. if there is noble rot, the grapes are fermented (as in Sauternes) rather than macerating process used for Tokaji Aszu. usually labelled as Late Harvest