21 - Portugal Flashcards
How has Portugal’s turbulent history influenced its wine industry today?
Alliance with England cemented long trading relationship esp. Fondness for Port in UK
Civil War damaged industry in c19th - loss of productive capacity and market
Phylloxera destroyed many vineyards in 1867 - permanently damaging many regions
Salazar’s 40-year rule 1930-70s → prioritised co-ops, quantity production, tarnished reputation
EU accession in 1986 - increase competition for co-ops, access to capital for new winemakers, improvement in viti and vini and better quality
Describe the growing conditions throughout Portugal with reference to different regions.
Climate
Maritime with more continental climates inland e.g. Vinho Verde is moderate maritime, Douro is warm and continental
Rainfall varies based on proximity to coast e.g. Baixo Corgo gets 900mm, Douro Superieur gets 450mm
Southerly regions are warmed and drier e.g. Tejo has a Mediterranean climate
Topography
Mountain ranges limit maritime influence inland e.g. Serra do Marão rises to 1400m
South is flatter with plains and hills
Soils
Schist and granite are common in mountainous regions e.g. VV, Douro, Dao and some parts of Alentejo
Varied soils in the south including clay and limestone and sand in Bairrada, Lisboa, Tejo and Península de Setúbal
Alluvial soils in Tejo
What has happened to the area under vine in Portugal? (3)
Reduced by 30% - currently 190,000ha → mainly high yielding vineyards in Tejo and VV
Some replanting with HQ vines but limited to avoid surpluses
Alentejo has seen area under vine grow due to warm, sunny climate and flat landscape → ideal for ripe, soft style for domestic and export markets + lots of money for investment esp. in large estates
Outline the main viticultural hazards experience in Portugal (6)
- Drought esp. Inland and in south Douro, Dão, Alentejo
- Hail and storms
- Wildfires e.g. Dao is 2017
- Untimely rain in regions like VV can create problems with fruit set, fungal disease
- Trunk disease e.g. esca
- Grapevine moths
While most vineyards are cordon/RCP with VSP, there is a significant number of bush vines found where? How are these used to make wine?
Old bush vines in Douro and Alentejo in particular - often co-planted and picked as field blends
To what extent is irrigation permitted?
Generally allowed but only to enable ripening, not to boost yields
Growers in Douro must notify Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto (IVDP) when they irrigate
To what extent is organic viticulture practised?
Widely practised but as few as 500 growers are certified due to cost
Warm, dry climate esp. Inland suits itself to this method
To what extent are native and int’l varieties planted in Portugal? How has this changed?
Of top 12 planted varieties, 11 are native with Syrah #10
Plantings on int’l varities more popular in south esp. Lisboa, Alentejo, Tejo → movement back to natives esp. from small, quality focused producers
How has EU-related investment improved winemaking in Portugal? Are there any traditional winemaking techniques that are still used? Are there any new wave practices being adopted?
Modern innovation
Destemming machines have improved tannin mngt
French oak barrels for maturation - also has improved tannin mngt, use has become more subtle in with int’l trends
Traditional techniques
Use of large format (3,000-5,000L) Portugese oak - still popular in Bairrada
Foot treading using Lagares made from local stone or stainless steel
New wave
Amphora for reds and whites e.g. DOC Vinho de Talha in Alentejo
Pre-ferment skin contact (cold soak) for premium whites w/ some interest in fermentation on skin
Natural wine e.g. Filipa Pato
Briefly outline the PDO/PGI system in Portugal.
Denominação de Origem Protegida (DOP) 31 in all with grape growing/winemaking restrictions and official tasting
Vinho Regional (VR) 14 in all, allowing int’l varieties and less strict on viti/vini
Vinho all others
To what extent has Portugal been successful in exporting its wines? What opportunities exist to promote its wines further? (3)
Fairly successful - 12th largest producer but 9th largest exporter with growth in both volume and value for unfortified wine across past 20yrs
- Very successful brands e.g. Mateurs and Lancers rosé
- Strong soft brands e.g. Vinho Verde
- Historical ties with UK, largest export market
Opportunities
- Improved quality due to investment and increased viti/vini integration
- Wines of Portugal Trade body est. 2010
- Increased tourism to establish first contact with consumers
How does the climate(s) of Vinho Verde influence viticulture and the style of wine produced?
Up to 1500mm of rainfall → rot and mildew
- Modern vineyards use RCP with VSP or lyre, trained high for circulation, summer pruning to thin canopy, some vineyards use traditional tree training
- Significant VV esp. in yield e.g. 25% reduction in 2018
- Mainly white varities planted 70% of production
- Mid-ripening Loureiro is most widely planted → mid-ripening so avoids worst of harvest rains
- Early picking resulting in low ABV wines
Warmer, drier in Baião → late ripening varieties e.g. Avesso → full body with citrus and stone fruit
Poor soils e.g. grant bedrock with thin decompomsed granite is well drained and poor in nutrients → supports large training system like Lyre → prevents overly vegetative growth
Describe how summer pruning is performed (3).
- Remove lateral shoots - non-fruit bearing
- Remove leafs - can be done mechanically
- Green harvesting - removing bunches before veraison to moderate yield
Name and briefly describe the five main grapes that go into white Vinho Verde.
- Loureiro mid-ripening; med(+) acid; citrus, pear, floral, herbal
- Alvarinho high quality with growing plantings; med(+)-high acid and some body; citrus, peach, tropical
- Pederna (Arinto) mid-ripening; neutral
- Avesso late-ripening, lower in acid/fuller in body; citrus and stone fruit
- Trajadura low in acid, apple and peach
Describe the winemaking for white Vinho Verde and the style of wine produced.
Majority of production is inexpensive, high-vol made from blend of grapes sourced from across region.
Protective with cool ferment in SST, bottled soon after ferment and CO2 may be added for spritz.
Some RS may be retained for balance
Apple, citrus, peach
Min of 8% ABV with med(+) to high acid
Describe how winemaking and regulations differ for higher quality Vinho Verde (4).
May be labelled with sub region e.g. Monção e Melgaço
May be made from single variety esp. Alvarinho
Min 11.5% ABV
May use ambient yeast, old oak fermentation and maturation with lees ageing
Describe red Vinho Verde.
14% of production - made from Vinhão - deep colour with cherries and high acid
Describe the production structure of Vinho Verde.
Very fragmented - average holding 1/10th ha → co-ops and negociants dominate e.g. Soalheiro
Where is VV sold?
35% exported with German, US, Brazil and France top export markets
Can VV be a rosé style?
Oh yeah - 5% of prodution. Potential new style?
How is the production structure of Dao evolving? (2)
Most land held by small growers - 90% less than 0.5ha –> production dominated by co-op Sogrape
Change in legislation forced by EU has enabled the growth of quality-focused merchants and estates
How does the growing environment of Bairrada differ/compare from Dao? (3)
Close to coast
Rainfall much the same as Dao ~1000mm –> mainly falls in spring or autumn (why an issue for Baga?)
Soils are alluvial in west with limestone-clay in south
How has the winemaking approach to Baga changed over time?
Cheap grown at high yields, high acid useful for rosé e.g. Mateus
Traditional fermented on stems with extended old oak maturation to soften tannin e.g. toneis Portugese/Brazilian wood
Modern destemmed but with some wholebunch or stems for fruity character / tanninic structure, mix of vessels from SST and lagares for fermentation and usually large oak for maturation (500-600), sometimes foudres
Why do producers like Luis Pato / Filipa Pato label their wines as VR despite making wine eligible for the Baiarrada DOC?
They objected to the inclusion of int’l varieties so label as Beira Atalntico VR
Describe the size, situation and growing environment of the Alentejo.
Size large 23,000ha inc DOC and VR Alentejano,
Climate Med with inlands experiencing extreme temps
Topography vaires as Alentejo is 8 non-contiguous areas including Poralegre that is 800m and located in north –> distinctly cooler; many plains and gentle slopes
Rainfall varies from 800mm in north - 500mm in south –> irrigation widely used
Soils various - schist, granite and limestone from sand to clay
Describe the growing conditions of Lisboa VR and the style of wines it produces.
Large area 18,000ha split into two by mountain range
Western side maritime with winds
Eastern side protected, riper wines
Wines are largely inexpensive
Reds few defined styles Touriga Nacional and Aragonez has good potential, int’l varieties widely planted e.g. Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon
Whites same as reds, blends common from Portuguese varieties esp. Arinto amd int’l varieties e.g. Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling
