13 - Tokaj

Question 1

Describe the growing conditions in Tokaj (5).

Answer 1

Moderate continental climate

Forested mountains to north protect from cold, northerly winds

~1450 hrs of sunlight during growing season –> vineyards facing S/SE/SW benefit maximise sunlight

Rainfall low (500-600mm) but 1/2 falls during growing season w/ warm + dry autumns –> good conditions for late-harvest

Tisza and Bodrog meet at town of Tokaj –> morning fog + sunny afternoons –> botrytis, grey rot

Question 2

Describe how Tokaj’s soils impact grape growing in the region.

Answer 2

Volcanic soils esp. Nyirok –> powerful

Loess (sandy silt with clay) –> delicate

Volcanic bedrock is soft –> vines can root deeply –> water stress, lack of nutrients rare

Question 3

How has viticulture evolved in Hungary? (2)

Answer 3

Training and Trellising

Traditional –> vines grown on single post up to 10,000 VPH

Modern –> lower density ~4500 VPH with vines RCP or cordon with VSP

Mechanisation

More common esp. for canopy thinning and harvesting

But not possible on steeper slopes or for Aszu wines

Question 4

What are the main viti challenges in Tokaj? (4)

Answer 4

1. Powdery mildew –> warm summers and autumns
2. Grey rot –> in wetter years
3. Wild boar and birds
4. Selecting berries for Aszu requirers skilled labour

Question 5

What are the typical yields in Tokaj.

Answer 5

Low for dry wines –> 30-40 hL/ha to ensure qualuty

Aszu berries produced tiny yields as low as 2-3 hL/ha

Question 6

Describe the characteristics of Furmint including:

Ripening

Skin

Flavours, structure and styles

Answer 6

Late ripening while retaining acid

Thick-skinned –> protects from grey rot but still susceptible to botrytis

Lemon, apple, pear –> honey and nuts with age; oak ageing common on premium styles –> dried apricot and mango with botrytis

High sugar levels –> dry styles may be full-bodied with high alcohol –> but modern viti means can achieve phenolic with too much sugar ripeness

Question 7

What do Hárslevelű and Sárga Muskotály contribute to blends?

Answer 7

Hárslevelű peach and orange blossom

Sárga Muskotály floral notes (see MBPG)

Question 8

Describe the style of wine labeled Aszu.

Answer 8

Deep amber, intense orange peel, apricots and honey, high acid, sweet, low-med alcohol

Question 9

Describe the production process for Aszu wines from harvest to bottling. (9)

Answer 9

Harvest individual grapes affected by botrytis through several passes

Mash Aszu grapes into a paste via a pump - taking care not to extract bitterness from skins + seeds

(Some don’t do this due to risk of bitterness)

Macerate paste into must for 12-60hrs at around 12-15c

Minimum potential ABV of 12% for the must

If macerating in must, press the paste or berries

Many producers stop fermentation early OR allow yeast to die naturally

Aszu spend min of 18mnths in oak - often longer –> traditionally small 136L barrels but many producers moving to larger format 300-500L, mix of new and old oak used

Must be bottled in clear glass, 500mL bottle

Question 10

Describe the different method of maceration used to produce Tokaji and how it impacts the style of wine produced.

Answer 10

1. Macerate in unfermenting must - must held at cool temp to discourage ferment –> lightest styles
2. Maceration in young finished wine –> more extraction
3. Maceration in fermenting must, usually 12-15c up to 16-18c as ferment continues –> most powerful, complex wine

Question 11

What is the potential ABV of the must that Aszu grapes are macerated in?

Answer 11

Minimum of 12% but for many it is 14.5-15.5%

Question 12

How can producers used botrytised grapes to add extra richness to Tokaji (apart from the grapes used for maceration)?

Answer 12

They can use some % of botrytized grapes in the base must/wine –> adds complexity, creamy texture

Question 13

Why do many producers prefer cultured yeast when fermenting Aszu wine?

Answer 13

Because the high sugar content of the must make it esp. difficult for ambient yeast to survive and ferment reliably

Question 14

Which wines Aszu wines may require stablisation? How is this achieved?

Answer 14

Wines produced by stopping fermentation early –> chill juice, rack and dose with SO2. Filter?

Question 15

How did the system of Aszu grapes change in 2013?

Answer 15

Pre-2013 –> by sweetness according to puttonyos scale from 3-6

Post-2013

• Minimum sugar 120g/L (equal to five puttonyos under old scale)
• Not mandatory to label using puttonyos
• New categories of Late Harvest and Edes Szamorodni created

Question 16

What is Eszencia? How is it made and what does it taste like?

Answer 16

Very rare sweet wine made with the free-run juice of Aszu berries

>450 g/L sugar with low alcohol, high acid and full-body –> extremely intense and age worthy

Question 17

What does Late Harvest indicate? Describe the style of wine produced under this label.

What advantages exist from a wine business perspective?

Answer 17

Wines made without maceration of Aszu berries –> instead late-harvested grapes with some % of botrytis are crushed and fermented

Oak ageing not mandatory –> many producers use SST

Styles is usually between 80-110 g/L sugar with lighter body and fresher fruit than traditional Aszu wines

Wines ready to sell only 12-16mnths after harvest and lower % of bot makes production more consistent across vintages.

Question 18

What does Szamorodni indicate? Describe the style of wine produced under this label.

Answer 18

Two styles produced from mixture of healthy and botrytised grapes…

Edes sweet with min 45 g/L (most have 89-100 g/L) with short, 6mnth oak maturation –> same quality as Aszu but fresher

Száraz - aged under layer of flor for up to a decade –> nutty, green apple aromas

Question 19

To what extent has the production of dry Tokaji grown?

How has this impacted grape growing? (3)

Answer 19

Production has tripled in 5-yrs

1. Producers planting on higher, windier hillsides esp. those above fog zone
2. Open canopies
3. Vine treatments e.g. fungicide

Question 20

What kind of styles of dry Tokaji are made?

Answer 20

Old School very ripe grapes, full malo and new oak barrel ageing

New Wave less ripeness, SST ferment, focus on varietal or vineyard character (single vineyards are called Dűlő)

Mainly using Furmint (majority of plantings) but Hárslevelű and Muscat

N.B. under EU PDO, varietally labelled wines must contain 85% of grape

Question 21

What sub-categories does Tokaj’s PDO contain?

What is the applicable PGI called?

Answer 21

1. Stylistic categories e.g. Aszu, Szamorodni
2. Village, estate wines and single vineyards

PGI Zempléni allows for int’l varieties and for inexpensive wine produced at higher yields

Question 22

What % of production is Aszu and dry wine. What makes up the remainder?

Answer 22

10% Aszu wines

20% dry wines

Remainder is cheap, semi-sweet wines for home and Eastern European market

Question 23

Assess the extent to which Tokaj production could grow in the future. (+3, -2)

Answer 23

+ Export growth potential in new markets - 40% exported with China, France, UK, US being largest mkts

+ Only half of potential vineyard area planted ~5800ha

+ Growth in production of dry styles

• Obscure language and labelling terms
• Large proportion of production is cheap, poor quality

Question 24

What is the average size of land holdings, who is the most significant producer?

Answer 24

Average holding is 1-2ha –> grapes sold to large producers

Grand Tokaj - state-owned - produced 35% of wine