1950s Flashcards
____ is the name after WWII where there was a booming economy, gov puts money back into economy, getting people to spend money again
- people moving to suburbs
Postwar Boom
____ is an Increase in consumer spending as gross national product doubles from 200 bill to more than 500 bill
___Age of ____ _____
Golden age of American capitalism
Middle class emerges & people have more money to spend on things because ____
inflation low - employment high
Movement with brown v board (integration of schools) where black Americans organize themselves
- they are protesting anti-segregation and rights to all
Civil rights movement
______regains supremacy because___
Paris because of DIor’s the new look
- couture industry back
The couture industry is using_____
Luxury textiles, furs, skilled hand-embellishments to maintain prestige
Easy-care synthetic fabrics
mass market fashion
mass market fashion also known as _____
Fast fashion
Why US is dominant ruling power in culture
Politics, Hollywood, culture dominant role in world
____ industry is more affordable
Travel
- people can travel internationally
- buy clothes & bring them back
What has an effect on fashion
Regional influences on mainstream fashions
- anything around has effect on fashion
Restraint/economizing to post war expansion encourages consumption called _____
Consumerism
Everyone has ____
TV
- powerful medium for promoting goods
Importance of TV
Much of marketing during the time
- marketed towards women (they are at home/working less)
- Commercials, adv all promoted buying
adv/fashion respond to ppl always driving
- scarves, hair accessories, cars
Called _____
Car culture
designer ____wear is response to baby boom
Designer maternity wear becomes open market
1950s man
Family man, business man, consumer
- dresses to express affluence
- investing more in clothing
- leisurewear
____rebel against fashion
Youth
- youth driven style statements express what they want to wear
____becomes dominant visual form in magazines
Photography (covers/pages)
- using voices (tone) of fashion writing
Seasonal looks are called the ___
- Charts that detail wardrobe pieces, accessories, fabrics, makeup colors
- telling you head to toe what need to wear
- cater to individual interests and combine fashion/targeted
Blue print of each season
Ebony magazine was started by ____
Eunice Johnson
Traveling show of high fashion targeted to B-Americans was called the ______
- bring best fashion at time, outrageous pieces, not seen elsewear
Fashion fair
Becomes well known for models/bikinis
Sports Illustrated
- 1954 coverage to sports clothing
Modern Christian Dior
Becomes most famous fashion designer in world
-Paris back on the fashion map
- huge % of revenue in French Fashion Industry
CD was the first fashion designer to develop the first ever_____
System of global distribution
CD establishes
international branches & custom salons (in house designers)
Diors three designs
H-line, A-line, Y-line
H-line
◦ Straight and slender, little shape
◦ French Bean by press
A-line
◦ Wide full skirt, elevated waist
◦ Grey silk, wool, flannel suit
◦ Look like the letter A
Y-line
◦ Wide angled collar (bateau: Y/V neckline)
◦ Narrow silhoutte
CD hires ____
Man who founded YSL
How Founder of YSL came to be
• sketches in vogue
•he was 17
• decorated of ALL Dior Boutiques
• Works alongside Dior for 2yrs before he dies
◦ YSL continues his look
◦ Dior gave a lot of credit to YSL
◦ Father of 34/180 designs
• CD dies oct 24, 1957 from heart attack
YSL 1st collection transforms the A-line dress to the _____look
Trapeze look
- Day: has pockets
- Evening: no pockets
Modern Balmain
• Pierre best known for eveningwear
• evening looks: Elegant, Parisian, luxury, embellishment
• Daywear look: polished refined, leopard trim fur as frequent detail
• Influences 18/19th century
• Hispanic, dress making at age of 10
• Father passes away - mother becomes seamstress
• Wants to become designer in Paris at 15
• 20 - has own shop in Spain
◦ Leading courtier in Spain
• 50s: popularizes trend towards capes and flowing clothes without waistlines
◦ Not super form fitting
Cristobal Balenciaga
Balenciaga’s jacket/suit
Cocoon & barrel suit
- Suit, features loose fitting jacket, look still around
_____ disrupts balenciagas business
Spanish Civil War
Creative director of Balenciaga
Demna Gvasalia
Creative director of balenciaga
Launched Vetements in 2014
• Worked for Alexander Wang
• Balenciaga tape: for Kim K
◦ Was on red carpet in all black
Demna Gvasalia
Why did CHANEL retire
Company goes bankrupt, economic problems WWII
Chanel hates ____
The New Look
- not all clothing should be form fitting
- comes out of retirement
Comes out of retirement as a response to
New Look - creates comeback collection
- creates tweed suit
- people think new look is better, people dont buy into it, takes while for suit to succeed (too boxy/tailored)
- Designs influence other designers
Creates bag for herself, quilted, Chanel classic
Chanel 2.55 Bag (feb 1955)
• Inspired by straps found on soldiers bags and adds thin straps, bringing design market
• Updates bag in 1955 after comeback - brings out with collection
• French aristocrat and fashion designer who creates house of Givenchy (1952)
• Family wealthy, designers, resources
• Romantic & charming styles
◦ wide necklines, bare shoulders, collars that stood away from neck
• died in 90s
Hubert de Givenchy
Hubert de Givenchy known for____
Dressing Audrey Hepburn
Hubert de Givenchy creates
Fitted, but not tight suits
- rounded shoulders, cap sleeves
Creative director of Givenchy
Matthew W. Williams
Matthew W. Williams
• founder of haute streetwear line 1018 Alyx 9SM
• Dresses Gaga - creative director for Lady Gaga
• Ongoing collab with Nike
• Former collaborator of Kanye West
Creative D of Givenchy
Film & Fashion
• Hollywood designers take off during time
• Stress elegance of time by offering gown takes on Paris fashions
• Distribution of Hollywood films spread fashion images all over
Biggest Film Designer
Famous for designing costumes for Marilyn
• American costume designer for theatre, film, tv
• Born raised LA
William Travilla
William Billy Travilla is best known for____
designing costumes for Marilyn Monroe
◦ Pink dress: gentlemen prefer blondes
◦ White dress: 7-year itch
Movie with Marilyn Monroe in a pink dress and diamonds
gentlemen prefer blondes
Movie with Marilyn Monroe with a white dress over the subway
7-year itch
Movement from haute couture design (upper class) to middle to working
Trickle down movement
___is expressions is clothing
fashion
___ is broader sociocultural system giving our clothes meaning
Fashion
____is the physical tangible garment we wear
Clothing
Trickle down fashion was started by_____
Georg Simmel
_____remains the dominant understanding of the fashion system
Trickle down fashion
- fashion relies on top class -> lower class copies it
-> lower class wants to change trend
Fashion is driven by the____
Highest class and trickles down to lower class
_____mobility allows for fashion to be copied
Class mobility
- fashion cant take place in societies with strict social structure
- EX: Amish all wear same so there isn’t fashion/social scales
____laws are laws that regulate clothing choices (consumption)
Sumptuary laws
Fashion decided by ___ _____: decision makers communicate - helps shape buyers worldview/decision making process
Collective selection
Collective selection was invented by____
Herbert Blummers
Herbert Blummers
Understood how styles/fashions were adopted/distributed
- certain designs chosen
Collective selection
- multiple buyers choose handful of designs
- we rely on buyers to tell us what is in
- they decide what is in & popular
____ (trickle-up effect) is fashion found on the street going from lower class to upper class
Bubble up fashion
• Street style: stuff that gets picked up in media/by lower on the fashion totem pole
• This is the bubbling up as the style emerges outside of that fashion system that is ultimately copied
Bubble up fashion was started by___
Ted polhemus
_____ was known for introducing high fashion to hip hop world, rappers, gangsters
Dapper Dan
____ was from Harlem, launched collection with Gucci, opened an atelier
Dapper dan
Theory suggests there is a supermarket of style
- ppl can buy trends/subcultures at any time
- thrifting/online shopping
- no seasonal
Bottom up theory
Fashion life cycle model
Invention - dissemination - social prominence - social saturation = decline
Fashion life cycle model was started by ____
george sproles
Life cycle model
Clothing invented - shown to public - dress people in it/stands out - it becomes everywhere/ its trending - declines
Social prominence happens when____
Mass media picks up trend
Professions who tell fashion industry what will be popular
- report on trends
- predicting AND selling trend is______
Trend forecasting
• people can buy trends/subcultures at any time
◦ Thrifting, no longer doing seasonal clothing, everything avail.
• Online shopping - makes it more pronounced
Supermarket of style
