18.2 - 18.5 - Marche, Abruzzo, Umbria and Lazio

Question 1

Outline the styles of wine produced in Marche.

Answer 1

75% red from Sangiovese and Montepulciano

25% white mainly from Verdicchio

Most wines inexpensive to mid-priced

Question 2

Name the top six grape varieties grown in Marche.

Answer 2

Question 3

Describe the growing environment of Marche.

Answer 3

Climate mainly Med with some continentality further inland –> summer temps, rainfall

Topography most vineyards planted on low hills near the coast

Soils limestone and clay –> drainage vs water retention

Question 4

Describe the characteristics of Verdicchio including planting densities, ripening, vulnerabilities, colour, aromas and structure.

Answer 4

Density low –> first four buds sterile so pruned long

Ripening late –> risk of late rain

Vulnerable mildew, botrytis bunch rot

Colour pale

Aromas med(-) intensity blossom, apple, lemon, fennel, almond

Structure high acid, med body

Question 5

Describe the two main winemaking styles of Verdicchio.

Answer 5

Fruity, inexpensive no malo, 4-6mnths in SST

Riserva with late ripened grapes, on lees in old oak, bottle ageing for up to 10yrs

Question 6

Compare and contrast the rules and style of Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi DOC and Verdicchio di Matelica DOC.

Answer 6

Growing environment CdJ from low hills, VdM from Apennines foothills

Soils VdM on faster draining sandstone

Yields VdM slightly lower 91 hL/ha for basic CdJ

Style CdJ is light, fruity and floral, VdM is higher acid, fuller-bodied, less fruity

Question 7

How are Riserva rules applied within Verdicchio DOCs.

Answer 7

18mnths ageing and higher min ABV but no oak stipulated

Question 8

Describe the characteristics of Marche’s other white grapes?

Answer 8

Pecorino disease resistant and early ripening but has sterile buds so must be trained long; apple, pear, herbal; high acid + alcohol, medium body–> released early or 12-18mnths in old oak with some labelled Offida Pecorino DOCG

N.B. clonal selection being used to improve productivity

Passerina disease resistant, high productivity, later ripening than Pecorino (bad why?) but can lose acidity quickly when mature so must be picked promptly; lemon, yellow apple; high acidity

Biancame and Trebbiano Toscano fresh and crips, local consumption

Question 9

How are most non-Verdicchio whites labelled? What alternatives are there?

Answer 9

Marche IGT

Offida Pecorino/Passerina DOCG if within Offida area

Question 10

Describe the characteristics of Montepulciano including ripening, resistances, and vulnerabilities.

Describe the two contrasting styles than can be produced.

Answer 10

Ripening uneven and needs long season –> quality/cost implications

Resistance to BBR and downy

Vulnerable to powdery mildew

Colour deep ruby

Style - Short Maceration (4-5 days) med intensity red cherry, no oak, med tannin and body

Style - Long Maceration (~20 days) med(+)-pronounced red cherry, black plum, oak, large oak vessels

Question 11

Describe some of the challenges of growing Montepulciano and vinifying it.

Answer 11

Ripens unvenely so either acceptable lower quality or hand-harvest/sort –> cost

Prone to reduction so aerate frequently –> cost

Question 12

Describe the typical red blends produced in Marche.

Answer 12

Mainly blended with Sangiovese (contributes acidity, tannin, red cherries)

Examples…

Rosso Piceno DOC - up to 85% Monte

Rosso Piceno Superiore DOC - same blends with 1yr of ageing from 13 townships in the south

Offida Rosso DOCG >85% Monte, 12mnths in oak, 24 total

Question 13

How of Marche’s wines are sold and consumed within Italy. Which companies have bucked this trend. What are the current challenges to growing the export market for these wines?

Answer 13

2/3 by value sold within Italy but private companies and co-ops have had success e.g. Umani Ronchi exports 70% of production incl. super-premium wines e.g. Pelago

Challenges

1. Region best known for inexpensive wines –> lots of competition
2. Rise of Pinot Grigio in NE of Italy has eaten much of that market

Question 14

How does the growing environment of Umbria compare to Tuscany?

Answer 14

Warm climate as well but more continentality as located further from the coast

Potential for drought in summer due to continentality

Moderate rainfall but during autumn and winter –> reduces disease risk but risk of disruption to harvest

Autumns usually dry enough for late harvest and botrytised styles

Question 15

What are the six most widely planted grape varieties in Umbria?

Answer 15

Question 16

Describe the two grape varieties unique to Umbria.

Answer 16

Grechetto di Orvieto thick-skinned (late-harvest), downy mildew, low-med intensity lemon and white flowers, high acid, med body

Sagrantino requires heat to ripen, vulnerable to spiders who reduce veg growth, vine moths plus downy and powdery mildew, med(+)-pronounced black fruit, high acid and very high tannins, can age

Question 17

Why is Sagrantino often trained with Guyot or cordon-trained/spur-pruned with VSP?

Answer 17

Needs sunlight to properly ripen + vulnerable to downy mildew

Question 18

Describe the style of wine produced in Orvieto DOC.

Answer 18

Blend >60% Trebbiano Toscano and/or Grechetto

Vineyards situated at least 100m ASL

Production moderate-high yields (77hL/ha), fermented in SST and designed for drinking young

Style med(-) intensity lemon and apple, med(+) acid, med alcohol, light-bodied, up to good quality/mid-priced

Notes

Superiore category - much lower max yield (56)

Late harvest and botrytised wines also allowed

Question 19

Compare and contrast Montefalco Rosso DOC and Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG.

How has the winemaking for Montefalco Sagrantino changed in the recent past?

Answer 19

Blend RdM mainly Sangiovese, with at least 10% Sagrantino; MS 100% Sagrantino

Max Yield RdM is moderate-high at 77; MS much lower at 52

Ageing RdM 18mnths; MS is 33mnths

Maceration periods have been reduced from ~2mnths to 2-3 weeks and some producers are using smaller French barrels + extended bottle ageing –> attempt to soften tannin

Question 20

To what extent has the production of Montefalco Sagrantino DOCG grown?

Answer 20

Hectarage up x4 in 15yrs but only 650ha total –> 60% exported

Question 21

Describe the climate of Lazio.

Answer 21

Warm, Mediterranean

Moderation from hills and sea breezes

Adequate rainfall but low in summer

Spring frost, summer heat and autumn rain are hazards

Question 22

Name and briefly describe the grapes unique to Lazio.

Answer 22

Malvasia Bianca di Candia disease resistant, high yields, easily oxidises, med lemon and apple, med+ acid, med alcohol and light body

Malvasia del Lazio less popular due to lower disease resistance and yield, can lose acid quickly, grape and peach flavours

Cesanese black, semi-aromatic, late-ripening, high yield (without loss of quality), Cesanese di Piglio has pronounced red cherry and rose aromas, med acid, med tannin, high alcohol

Question 23

Describe the winemaking and style of Frascati DOC and Frascati Superiore DOCG.

Answer 23

Grapes both from Malvasia Bianca di Candia and/or Malvasia del Lazio, at least 70% (remainder usually Trebbiano)

Max Yields very high for DOC (105 hL/ha), med-high for DOCG (77hL/ha)

Winemaking both protective although some DOCG in barrel

Price/Quality Cheap-mid/acceptable-good for DOC, mid-priced/good-VG for DOC

Question 24

Outline other styles of wine made in Lazio.

Answer 24

Castelli Romani DOC large area south of Rome including Frascati, as well as many whites (with high yields 120hL/ha) and some reds

Merlot, Sangiovese produced for local drinking

Question 25

What has happened to the vineyard area in Frascati? Where is most of it sold?

Answer 25

In decline –> inexpensive wines for local market; DOCs like Frascati see 60% of production exportd

Question 26

How much wine does Abruzzo produce?

Answer 26

Quite a lot - 5th largest producer ahead of Tuscany and Piemonte, mainly via co-ops

Question 27

What three styles of wine are produced in Abruzzo?

Answer 27

Trebbiano d’Abruzzo crisp white with high acidity, typically unoaked from high yields (98hL/ha)

Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo med-med+ bodied rosé, made from at least 85% Montepulciano. Traditionally deeply coloured but often paler today. Via maceration or DP, occasionally saignee.

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo red fruit with med(+) body and high tannin made from at least 85% Montepulciano with oak ageing for all but the cheapest examples.

Question 28

Describe the different growing environments in Abruzzo.

Answer 28

Hillside vineyards warm continental (length of growing season), cooled by mountains (speed of ripening) with risk of spring frost and autumn rain

Coastal zone warm Mediterranean climate, less frost and autumn rain risk, warmer, fertile soil

Question 29

How have planting density and vine training systems changed in Abruzzo, and with what effect?

Answer 29

Planting densities have increased from 2500VPH –> pergola training to manage canopy –> high yield per vine meant lack of concentration

Higher density planting –> often trellised with VSP –> lower yields –> quality

Coastal zone sees cordon-trained/spur-pruned or Guyot –> mechanisation

Hillside varied system with harvest by hand

Question 30

Describe the different styles of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo made including the three levels outlined by DOC law.

Answer 30

1. Short Maceration (4-5 days) med intensity red cherry, no oak, med tannin and body

• Montepulciano rich in tannins so short maceration important for an easy drinking style
• Merlot or Primitivo often added to blended

2. Long Maceration (~20 days) med(+)-pronounced red cherry, black plum, oak

• Oak ageing important to soften tannin with small French oak for top wines

Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOC on hilly sites but high yields 98 hL/ha

DOC sub-zone 18mnths ageing with, 50% of the time in oak, lower yield 66hL/ha

Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG 24mnths ageing, 12mnths oak

Question 31

Give two examples of Abruzzo wine that are unusually HQ given the region is best-known for inexpensive wine.

Answer 31

Barrel-aged Trebbiano d’Abruzzo from producers such as Emidio Pepe and Valentini

Colline Teramane Montepulciano d’Abruzzo DOCG with extended oak and bottle ageing from small Abruzzo sub-zone

Question 32

Why is much Cerasuolo d’Abruzzo DOC deeply coloured by tradition?

Answer 32

Montepulciano is high in antho, gives colour easily

Presses which allow DP are a more recent invention - have helped control colour extraction

Question 33

Most Abruzzo wine is made by which kind of producer?

What price point is most wine sold for and to what extent are exports important?

Answer 33

75% by co-ops

Most are inexpensive - this good GPR means exports important esp. to northern Europe and North America