1- Coastal Landscapes + Physical Factors

Question 1

Properties of high energy waves

Answer 1

• stronger backwash = removes sediment
• erosion outweighs deposition
• beach becomes flatter as sediment removed

Question 2

Properties of low energy waves

Answer 2

• weaker backwash removes less sediment
• deposition outweighs Erosion
• beach becomes steeper = more sediment deposited building up beach

Question 3

What are the 4 parts to a system

Answer 3

• inputs
• proscess
• stores
• outputs

Question 4

What is dynamic equilibrium

Answer 4

• a system controlled by negative feedback loops returning system to equilibrium

Question 5

Wind as a physical factor

Answer 5

• provides energy for waves
• wind speed, direction and frequency all effect the waves eroding power

Question 6

Waves as a physical factor

Answer 6

• carry sediment + deposit or erode material away

Question 7

Tidal range as a physical factor

Answer 7

• height between high + low tide = where erosion can occur

Question 8

What 2 components make up geology

Answer 8

Lithology= chemical + physical composition
structure= properties of rock eg: cracks

Question 9

How does wind create waves

Answer 9

1- wind blows over surface of water
2- friction with water slows down surface wind
3- air above pushes down on surface of water = forms a ripple
4- wind pushes against back of ripple increasing height + strength of wave

Question 10

Why do waves break

Answer 10

• friction with sea bed slows base of wave
• back of wave “catches up” to front of wave = wave steepens + rises
• wave topples over + water rushes up beach (swash)

Question 11

How do waves shape a beach (negative feedback loop)

Answer 11

1- flat beach = constructive waves
2- constructive waves build up beach = steeper
3- steep beach = destructive waves
4- destructive waves flatten beach + take sediment away

Cycle repeats

Question 12

What affects tides

Answer 12

• moons gravitational pull
• spring tide = sun + moon align = larger tidal range

Question 13

Name 3 sources of sediment

Answer 13

• fluvial
• longshore drift
• mass movement + weathering

Question 14

What is the seasonal difference in waves

Answer 14

Summer = lower energy due to calmer conditions = steeper beach built

Winter= higher energy waves due to more frequent storms = beach is flattened

Question 15

Why does material not usauly leave sediment cells

Answer 15

• natural obstacles marking end of cells
  Eg: large headland

Question 16

What is a disconcordant coastline

Answer 16

• alternating bands of hard and soft rock = erosion at different speeds = headlands and bays