Woody plants Flashcards
1
Q
Describe the difference between a tree and a shrub
A
A tree is a woody perennial plant which has a clear and definable single trunk that holds the leaves and branches at some height. Some trees e.g. Betula pendula (silver birch) may be trained to be multi-stemmed.
Shrubs tend to have multi-stems from ground level.
2
Q
Describe the difference between a climber and a wall shrub
A
Climber: have a natural method for climbing
- Self-clinging: have adhesive tendril tips e.g. Hedera helix
- Modified stem growth: e.g. twining stems of honeysuckle, curling tendrils of vines, and curling petioles in clematis
- Hooked thorns: allow plant to hold onto support e.g. climbing rose
Wall shrub can be trained up a wall e.g. pyracantha, Hydrangea anomala subsp. petiolaris
3
Q
Name the planting forms of woody plants
A
Woody plants available in three forms:
- bare rooted
- containerised
- root balled
4
Q
Discuss bare rooted plants
A
- Plant is in dormant state
- Cheapest form to buy or grow
- Early planting in Oct/Nov aids rooting out and establishment to support plant following season
- Need to prevent bare rooted plants drying out
- use damp sacking or moist compost
- if plants are dry upon delivery soak in water for 24h to restore cell turgidity
- can ‘heel in’ plants if there is a delay to planting.
- In shady spot dig v-shaped trench
- spread roots evenly along one side of the trench
- fill trench with soil and firm in
- water trench immediately and daily
- Sprinkling mycorrhizal fungi will aid nutrient and water uptake, and exstablishment of plant.
5
Q
Discuss root balled woody plants
A
Better system that bare rooted but bulkier and heavier
‘Peaty’ packaging inside root ball and around roots provides good life-support system for plant
6
Q
Describe the soil preparations for trees and woody shrubs
A
- Loosen soil to depth equivalent to the height of the root ball and over a wide area to eliminate compaction and improve drainage
- Improve soil structure on heavy or sandy soils by incorporating organic matter
- Not beneficial to apply fertiliser at planting time. On poor soils sprinkling mycorrhizal fungi e.g. Rootgrow over and in contact with roots will help plant establish.
- If soil is waterlogged over winter consider plants suited to wet soil, install drainage (add grit), or plant on slight mound (25-30cm high, 1m diameter)
7
Q
Describe the planting of trees and woody shrubs
A
- Best time to plant is between October and April
- Soak bare-rooted plants for 30 min before planting, give containerised plants a good water before taking out of pots
- Dig planting hole not deeper than the roots, but is ideally 3 times diameter of root system.
- Remove plant from container or fabric wrapping
- Tease out roots and trim those that are pot-bound, spread out roots of bare-rooted plants
- If sides of hole compacted break up soil with fork before planting
- Place plant in hole so first flare of roots are level with soil surface
- Insert stake if required
- Refill planting hole, placing soil between and around roots to eliminate air pockets
- Firm soil gently and water in.
- Mulch with compost
- Protect from deer or rabbits by using tree spirals or similar
8
Q
Describe 3 methods for staking trees
A
Staking trees prevents wind rock and movement of roots.
- Single stake: standard for bare rooted trees. Insert stake before planting. Stake should be ⅓ height of tree. Insert on side of prevailing wind so tree blown away from stake.
- Double stake: standard for containerised or root balled trees. Two stakes inserted on opposite sides outside the root ball, secured to trunk by long ties or timber cross-bar and tie.
- Angled stake: used on slopes. Drive in stake at 45 degree angle, leaning into prevailing wind. Secure with flexible tree tie.
- Check stakes and ties every year to avoid tight tree ties damaging stems
- Stakes can be removed once tree can stand unsupported without bending or shifting in the ground (18 months - 3 years)
9
Q
Describe the formative maintenance (2-3 years) of trees during establishment
A
- Water: typically 30-50 litres per square metre (4-6 watering cans) each week in dry weather during the growing season.
- Weeding: keep a vegetation-free circle at least 1.2m (4ft) in diameter around the plant for its first three years
- Mulch: maintain mulch at 5-8cm in spring, will aid water retention and suppress weeds. Keep mulch 10cm from woody stems to prevent bark rotting.
- Inspect tree ties in spring and autumn and adjust to prevent constriction of the stem. After two seasons tie can be removed.
- Formative pruning should be carried out while tree is young. Shortening or removing competing leaders, removing dead, damaged or diseased wood. Removing lower laterals to give clear trunk if desired.
- Tree shelter: leave in place for one growing season after growth emerges from the shelter (for lager trees leave for 3-4 seasons). If inhibiting growth remove or replace.
- Monitor for pests and diseases
10
Q
Describe the maintenance of shrubs
A
- Water: during dry periods. Occasional (weekly) deep watering better than frequent shallow watering
- Weeding: keep a vegetation-free circle around the plant
- Mulch: maintain mulch at 5-8cm in spring, at least 15cm beyond top growth of shrub to will aid water retention and suppress weeds. Keep mulch 10cm from woody stems to prevent bark rotting.
- Feed regularly (best in spring). Either using manure/compost mulch or scattering slow release fertiliser around the base and scratching into surface. For heavy feeders e.g. roses apply liquid feed throughout growing season until July (inorganic or fish emulsion)
- Temporary windbreak in exposed locations using stakes and hessian sack.
- Deadheading spent flowers
- Monitor for pests and diseases
- For climbers tie in growth to support
11
Q
Describe the purpose of pruning a woody plant
A
- removal of dead, damaged or diseased wood
- maintain shrubs to desired size
- keep production of flowering wood, berries, or young coloured wood e.g. Cornus
- keep production of new leafy growth
- removal of older wood to encourage production of new wood
- Remove reverted shoots e.g. non-variegated shoots on variegated plant
- to deadhead
- to remove suckers
12
Q
Describe the pruning of a bush rose e.g. hybrid teas and floribundas
A
- Prune in late winter when growth is just resuming (mid-Feb - March)
- Cut out dead, damaged or diseased wood, cut out crossing and crowded stems
- Cut out old shoots to open up centre
- Cut back strongest remaining shoots to 4-6 buds, 10-15cm from base (25-30cm for floribunda)
- Shorten less vigorous shoots to 2-4 buds, 5-10cm from base
- Cut to an outward facing bud to encourage an open centre
- Floribunda: leave 6-8 stems; shorten to about 7 buds from base
- Hybrid Tea: leave 4-6 stems; shorten to about 5 buds from the base
- Cuts should be about 5mm above a bud and slope away from it so that water does not collect on the bud
13
Q
Describe the pruning of a rambler and climbing roses
A
Rambler roses
- Prune in late summer after show of flowers and hips
- remove 3Ds
- Cut out old flowered shoots, tying in new young ones
- Shorten side shoots by ⅔
Climbing roses
- Prune Dec - Feb
- Remove 3Ds
- Tie in new shoots needed to fill supports
- Leave main shoots
- Spur prune laterals to 2-3 buds
- Long, whippy shoots can be tied in in autumn to prevent wind damage
14
Q
Describe the pruning of shrub roses
A
Single flowering e.g. Rugosa group
- prune in late summer once flowering completed
- remove 3Ds and crossing or rubbing branches
- avoid excessive build up of older unproductive wood causing centre to become crowded
Repeat flowering
- Prune in late winter when growth just resuming, mid-Feb to March
- Reduce strong new growth by up to ⅓
- Shorten side shoots to 2-3 buds
15
Q
Describe general method for pruning
A
- Remove dead, diseased and damaged wood (3Ds)
- Remove crossing branches
- Remove undesired branches
- ‘head back’ (shorten) some remaining branches by as much as ½
- Prune above outward-facing bud
