What to consider during a colour service

Question 1

What tests do you need to perform before and during a colour service?

Answer 1

• The porosity test - Elasticity - Incompatibility - strand test - the skin test

Question 2

How do you carry out a skin test

Answer 2

Apply a small amount of desired colour on the inside of the arm and wait 24hours, if there is a reaction the service cannot go ahead.

Question 3

How to carry out a porosity test?

Answer 3

To test for porosity you need to get a small section of hair and then slide your finger and thumb backwards and forwards on the hair shaft. If it feels rough, then the hair is porous.

Question 4

How to carry out an incompatibility test?

Answer 4

a small clipping of hair should be taken from the back of the head and put in a solution of hydrogen peroxide and ammonium hydroxide 20:1 If the solution reacts (gets warm or starts fizzing) then there are incompatible products in the hair and the service cannot go ahead.

Question 5

How to carry out the elasticity test?

Answer 5

Take a small section of hair and damp it, gently pull the hair and let it relax back to its original length. If it doesn’t revert back to its original length or snaps then it has poor elasticity and the service cannot go ahead.

Question 6

How to carry out a strand test?

Answer 6

The strand test is to see whether the lightener or colour has developed enough and is ready to be removed or not

Question 7

Why do you need to keep in mind the natural base colours?

Answer 7

The natural bases show how dark or light the hair is and what pigments are present
e.g. light brown has yellow, red and brown pigments

Question 8

what suits the client’s skin tone?

Answer 8

skin tones are either warm with peachy-yellow undertones or cool with pink undertones
warm skin tones - have complimentary colours of gold, copper, auburn and usually anything with a red tone to them
cool skin tones - suit ash, champagne or beige within the colour names the best

Question 9

What percentage of white hair is present?

Answer 9

White hair contains no colour pigments and are usually resistant to chemical services, therefore you may need to take into consideration having to do a pre-softening treatment before starting your colouring service.

Question 10

What is the ICC and what does it do?

Answer 10

The International Colour Chart is used so that the hairdressers can be precise when choosing colours and can refer to it when consulting with clients.

Question 11

Why is the pH values of a service or product important?

Answer 11

The hair should always be returned to it’s original pH, or else it will become damaged and produce poor results, after a colouring service you should always use a pH balanced shampoo and conditioner to restore the hair and prevent any creeping oxidation.

Question 12

What is the hair’s pH?

Answer 12

4.5 - 5.5 which is on the acidic side of the scale

Question 13

What is the pH of a pH balanced shampoo and conditioner?

Answer 13

3.5 - 6.0 = on the acidic side of the scale

Question 14

What are the pH’s of the different colour products?

Answer 14

semi-permanent colour = 8.0-9.0pH
Quasi colours = 8.0-9.0pH
Permanent dye = around 9.5pH
Liquid and powder bleaches = 8.5-10.5pH
You will notice these are all on the alkaline scale which opens the cuticle.

Question 15

What should you use to colour white hair?

Answer 15

Permanent colours are the only colours that can completely cover white hair. You should also be careful with colours as bright or warmer shades can appear too bright it is a good idea to mix some natural shades in so that the colour in turn is more natural.

Question 16

What should you consider when choosing developer strength?

Answer 16

• The existing colour of the clients hair
• The amount of lift required
• The percentage of white hair
• The type of colour being used
• Recommendations by the manufacturer

Question 17

Why should you consider a clients lifestyle during consultation?

Answer 17

a client’s lifestyle should influence your cjhoice of colour, for example if the client swims regularly bleach products should be avoided so the hair does not get a green tinge.
A client may want a colour to enhance their style and reflect their job role or personality
Some may want a practical colour that is easy to care for while another may have more free time and would like something more vibrant.

Question 18

What is creeping oxidation?

Answer 18

Creeping oxidation is where the colour is not properly removed from the hair. This results in the colour going lighter and can effect the integrity of the hair.

Question 19

What electrical equipment can you use?

Answer 19

There are two heated electrical equipment you can use

• The climazon, an infrared heater with a temperature sensor
• The roller ball, a multi-functional infrared processor, which helps the chemicals penetrate deeper and develop quicker. It can also make the colour more effective and longer lasting.