What is wave refraction and currents ?

Question 1

What is wave refraction ?

Answer 1

• When the waves approaches the coastline they begin to refract.
• Waves in shallow water begin to slow down due to friction in the seabed.
• Waves become parallel to the coastline.
• The part of the wave in deeper water moves forward faster causing the wave to bend.
• The part of the wave in shallow water become higher and steeper and have a shorter wavelength.
• The energy is concentrated on the headlands, creating erosion and surrounding energy is dissipated into the bays causing deposition.

Question 2

What are the three different ocean currents ?

Answer 2

• Longshore drift
• Rip currents
• Upwelling

Question 3

What is longshore drift ?

Answer 3

A flow of water parallel to the coastline

Question 4

What are rip currents ?

Answer 4

Move away from the coastline, may start parallel and then there is a headline head out to sea.

Question 5

What is upwelling ?

Answer 5

WInds blow away surface water allowing cold water, which is full of nutrients, makes its way up the the surface.