Week 1 Flashcards
1
Q
80% of woven fabrics manufactured are…
A
plain weave
2
Q
Advantages of plain weave
A
- Firmness
- Resistant to abrasion
- resistance to snagging
- easy to clean
- cheap to produce
3
Q
Disadvantages of plain weave
A
- wrinkle
- low in tear strength
- flat in appearance
- lacks visual
4
Q
Plain weave derivatives (Rib weave)
A
- unbalanced weave
- noticeable lines on fabrics surface
- 2 or more threads weave as 1 in either warp or weft
direction. - Normally use heavy yarns in 1 direction and fine
yarns in other to exaggerate rib effect (e.g. poplin,
taffeta, etc.)
5
Q
Plain weave derivatives (hopsack)
A
- constructed with two or more ends & picks interlacing identically to produce a checkered pattern
- Loosely woven, Decorative, Coarse visual effect
6
Q
Advantages of hopsack
A
- Appearance reversible
- Sheds wrinkles
- Loose, porous
- Flexible due to loose
construction - High tear strength
7
Q
Disadvantages of hopsack
A
- Yarn slippage
- Low dimensional stability
- Difficult to sew
- Snagging
- May shrink more during
finishing process compare
to 1/1 plain weave
8
Q
Twill weave characteristics
A
- Have distinguishable diagonal lines on surface of
fabric - Float: a yarn that crosses over more than one
yarn at a time.
Fabric appearance
o Reclining diagonal line
o Regular diagonal line
o Steep diagonal line
9
Q
Types of twill weave
A
- R.h 2/2 twill (most common)
In balanced cloth: 45 degree - L.H. twill:
• Steeper angled twills
• More obtuse angled twills
Broken/pointed: diagonal line changes
direction in warp or weft direction)
Herringbone: even break in direction
Diamond: twill line broken in both warp
and weft direction
10
Q
Advantages of twill
A
- High tear strength
- hides dirt
- soft
- better wrinkle recoverability
11
Q
Disadvantages of twill
A
- pattern restrictions due to diagonal lines
- snagging
- definite right/wrong
12
Q
Satin / Sateen
A
- Warp (Weft) travels over four or more weft (warp) yarns
- Different types, identified by float length
5 ends satin, 4 ends satin, 6 ends satin, etc.
13
Q
Satin
A
- warp floats hide weft yarns
- Normally use lustrous filament yarns with this structure
to maximise light reflection.
14
Q
Sateen
A
- weft floats hide warp yarns
- normally uses natural staple fibre yarns
15
Q
Advantages of satin/sateen
A
- Lustrous
- Smooth surface
- Good drape/handle
16
Q
disadvantages of satin/sateen
A
- poor abrasion resistance
- Poor with snagging
- Not durable
- Can look greasy with time
- Expensive to produce
17
Q
Crepe fabrics
A
- usually made with highly twisted yarns
- ‘uniformly irregular’ in appearance; non-direction
(interrupted surface) - Rough/pebbly textured appearance
- good for stretch
- Identified by
# ends per repeat unit
18
Q
Honeycombs
A
- The structure is formed by some ends and picks interlacing tighter than others. - The cellular formations appear square in the cloth. - Identified by # ends per repeat unit - 3D effect, due to areas of plain weave and areas with floats - Waffle-like (e.g. tea towel)
