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Oceanography > Waves Tides and Currents > Flashcards

Waves Tides and Currents Flashcards

1
Q

Ocean Circulation can occur in the form of?

A

waves, currents, and gyres

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2
Q

What drives the wind?

A

Sunlight Energy

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3
Q

What is the purpose of ocean circulation?

A

Stabilize the earths climate

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4
Q

When energy passes through a wave, How do the water molecules move?

A

Up and Down. Vertical circular orbits

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5
Q

Surface currents make up what percent of the ocean?

A

10%

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6
Q

What causes surface currents?

A

Wind

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7
Q

Do surface currents cross the equator?

A

No

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8
Q

Due to the Coriolis Effect what way do the surface currents go in the Northern Hemisphere?

A

To the right

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9
Q

Do to the Coriolis Effect what way do the surface currents go in the Southern Hemisphere?

A

To the left

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10
Q

What are gyres?

A

Large circular currents

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11
Q

What causes gyres?

A

Accumulating water movement and energy from surface currents

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12
Q

What percent do deep water ocean currents make up of the ocean?

A

90%

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13
Q

The great ocean conveyor is driven by what type of circulation?

A

Thermohaline circulation

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14
Q

What drives Thermohaline circulation?

A

Salinity and Temperature

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15
Q

Do deep water currents cross the equator?

A

Yes

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16
Q

How do deep water currents work?

A

The water gets heated up at he equator and goes towards the poles and cools down causing it to drop back down.

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17
Q

Why is upwelling important?

A

Carries cold nutrient rich water from the deep ocean to the surface

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18
Q

Why is downwelling important?

A

Carries oxygen down to the sea floor

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19
Q

What is the crest of a wave?

A

Highest part of a wave

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20
Q

What is the trough of a wave?

A

the lowest part of a wave

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21
Q

What is wavelength?

A

The distance between crests of waves

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22
Q

How do you determine the height of a wave?

A

It is the vertical distance from crest to trough

23
Q

What can cause a wave?

A

Mostly wind but also earthquakes, volcano, and gravity pull

24
Q

What does the size of a wave depend on?

A

Strength (wind speed), Fetch (the distance) and Duration (The length of the gust)

25
Q

Why are waves important?

A

Shape the coastlines, return oxygen to water and stir up food for filter feeders.

26
Q

What type of wave are white caps with a flat/gentle slope?

A

Spilling wave

27
Q

What type of wave are breakers with a gradual slope?

A

Plunging wave

28
Q

What type of wave normally curls over forming a tunnel until the wave breaks

A

Plunging wave

29
Q

What type of wave are shore breakers and have a steep sloping seafloor?

A

Surging waves

30
Q

What type of wave tends to explode on the beach?

A

Surging waves

31
Q

What causes tsunamis?

A

earthquakes

32
Q

What are tides?

A

Long period waves

33
Q

What causes tides?

A

the gravitational pull of the moon and sun and Inertia forces

34
Q

high tide

A

the state of the tide when at its highest level.

35
Q

Low tide

A

The time at which the tide reaches its lowest level

36
Q

tidal range

A

The difference in levels of ocean water at high tide and low tide

37
Q

Gravitational pull of the sun and the moon affect the earth on which side?

A

The side facing the moon

38
Q

Inertia forces affect the earth on which side?

A

The side not facing the moon

39
Q

What is a tidal bulge?

A

When the pull of gravity causes water levels to rise and create a bulge

40
Q

Which type of tide causes high tides?

A

Perigee Tides

41
Q

Which type of tide causes low tides?

A

Apogee Tides

42
Q

The moon being farthest away causes what type of tides

A

Apogee

43
Q

The moon being closest to earth causes what type of tides?

A

Perigee

44
Q

How long does it take for water at shore to go from high to low?

A

6hours and 12.5 min

45
Q

How often do high tides occur?

A

12 hours and 25 mins apart

46
Q

Diurnal Tides

A

one high tide and one low tide daily

47
Q

Semi diurnal Tides

A

a tidal pattern with two high and two low tides each day

48
Q

Mixed Tides

A

tidal pattern during a lunar day with 2 unequal high tides and 2 unequal low tides

49
Q

What causes Spring tides?

A

The sun and moon are aligned

50
Q

When do spring tides occur?

A

new and full moon

51
Q

Which type of tide has the highest tidal range?

A

spring

52
Q

What causes a neap tide?

A

When the sun and moon oppose eachother

53
Q

When do neap tides occur?

A

Moon’s quarter phases

54
Q

Which type of tide has the lowest tidal range?

A

neap

Oceanography (4 decks)

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