WAVES + COASTS Flashcards

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1
Q

what is the coast?

A

the transition zone between land and sea

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2
Q

what are 4 factors affecting the coast?

A

weather, human activity, land, sea

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3
Q

what three factors affect the power of waves?

A

fetch, wind strength, wind duration

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4
Q

what is fetch?

A

the distance of water over which the wind acts

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5
Q

what is wind duration?

A

the length of time which the wind is acting on the surface of the water

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6
Q

what is the wind strength?

A

the speed at which the wind is acting on the surface of the water

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7
Q

What is the swash?

A

when water runs up the beach

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8
Q

what is the backwash?

A

when the water runs out of energy and therefore runs straight down the beach again.

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9
Q

what causes waves to crash?

A

the friction between the water and the sea bed.

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10
Q

name three features of destructive waves…

A

short wavelength, stronger backwash than swash, causes sand and shingle to be pulled from shore.

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11
Q

name three features of constructive waves…

A

long wavelength, stronger swash than backwash, causes deposition.

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12
Q

what are the three categories of weathering?

A

biological, mechanical, chemical.

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13
Q

Define burrowing animals (weathering):

A

They can weaken the cracks in rocks.

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14
Q

Define shellfish (weathering):

A

Can drill into coastal rocks, weakening them.

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15
Q

Define tree roots (weathering):

A

Can grown into cracks, expanding as the tree grows, weakening rocks.

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16
Q

what is freeze thaw weathering:

A

liquid water enters cracks and expands as it freezes weakening rocks.

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17
Q

What is salt crystallisation:

A

salt water runs into cracks and pores in rocks, then water evaporates leaving behind salt crystals which can weaken the rock.

18
Q

What is exfoliation?

A

rocks that are repeatedly exposed to very high and very low temperatures can ‘shed’ their outer layers

19
Q

What are the four types of mass movement?

A

landslide, rotational slumping, mudslide, rockfall

20
Q

What is mass movement?

A

The downhill movement of weathered material due to gravity/

21
Q

What is a landslide?

A

when blocks of rock slide downhill

22
Q

What is slumping?

A

the slump of saturated soil and weak rock along a curved surface.

23
Q

What is a mudslide?

A

When saturated soil and weak rock fall.

24
Q

What is rockfall?

A

When fragments of rock break away from a cliff face.

25
Q

What are the four types of erosion?

A

attrition, abrasion, hydraulic action, solution

26
Q

Define abrasion:

A

caused by waves picking up rocks and hurling them at cliff faces wearing them away

27
Q

Define hydraulic action:

A

as waves hit the cliff face they force pockets of air into cracks. the air becomes pressurised and weakens the rock.

28
Q

Define corrosion:

A

when rocks such as limestone are being dissolved by sea water

29
Q

Define attrition:

A

A process whereby material carried by the waves is rounded and made smaller as it collides with other material.

30
Q

What type of coastline do headlands and bays form on?

A

discordant

31
Q

Why do headlands and bays form?

A

Because of the bands of alternating hardness of rock.

32
Q

Where does beach material come from?

A

Rivers, erosion of cliffs.

33
Q

Where do landforms of deposition generally form?

A

In low energy areas

34
Q

Defin a storm breach:

A

a ridge of coarse material above high tide level thrown up by high energy storm waves.

35
Q

Define a cusp:

A

A semicircular depression in the beach face at the upper and lower boundary of the beach

36
Q

Define a berm:

A

A small set of ridges in the beach face caused by swash

37
Q

Define a ridge:

A

A mound of sand formed by destructive waves eroding material at the top of the beach and depositing it on the lower beach.

38
Q

Define a runnel:

A

Troughs between the ridges that contain water.

39
Q

Define eustatic change:

A

a change in sea level due to the change in volume of the sea (global issue)

40
Q

Define isostatic change:

A

sea level change due to the change in height of the land.

41
Q

What type of submerged valley is a ria?

A

a submerged river valley

42
Q

What type of submerged valley is a fjord?

A

a submerged racial valley