Waves and Shaping Landforms

Question 1

Why is Wamberal threatened by coastal erosion?

Answer 1

Because added housing in the mid 20th century minimized the natural protection the area offered, leaving a more vulnerable beachfront.

Question 2

Explain spilling waves.

Answer 2

Spilling waves occur when the shoreline is flat. These waves break as the wave moves towards the shore and the crest of the wave spills down the front. These waves are not that powerful.

Question 3

Explain plunging waves.

Answer 3

Plunging waves are the most powerful. They form when there is a surge in the seafloor. They often occur at low tide because there is less water for the waves to break on to.

Question 4

Explain surging waves.

Answer 4

Surging waves occur when the water is deep. They never actually break or gain speed, but they do deliver a lot of energy. These waves form when the seafloor is steep.

Question 5

What is wave refraction?

Answer 5

Wave refraction is the bending of a wave as it propagates over different depths.

Question 6

What is longshore drift?

Answer 6

Waves that hit the beach at an angle carry sand and gravel up the beach face at an angle. When the water washes back the sediment. is carried straight back down the beach face. Individual particles are moved along the beach in a zig-zag pattern.