Waves Flashcards

1
Q

are energy travelling along the interface between ocean and atmosphere, often transforming energy from a storm far out at sea over distances of several thousand kilometers

A

waves

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2
Q

the top of wave

A

crest

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3
Q

separates two crest

A

trough

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4
Q

halfway between crest and trough

A

still water level

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5
Q

vertical distance between crest and trough

A

wave height

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6
Q

horizontal distance between crest and trough

A

wave height

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7
Q

horizontal distance between successive crest

A

wave length

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8
Q

the time it takes one full wave to pass a fixed position

A

wave period

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9
Q

distance the wind has traveled across the open water.

A

Fetch

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10
Q

when critical point is reached where waves grow so tall that they topple over, forming ocena breakers

A

white caps

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11
Q

waves that are lower in height and longer in length and may carry the storms energy to distant shores

A

swell

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12
Q

trurbulent water created by breaking waves

A

surf

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13
Q

when turbulent sheet of water from collapsing breaks move up the slope of the beach

A

swash

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14
Q

when water flows back down the beach towards the surf zone when the energy of the swash that has been expended

A

backswash

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15
Q

the impact of waves as it crashes along the shore lines

A

Wave impact

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16
Q

the sawing and grinding action of water armed with rock fragments

A

Abrasion

17
Q

when the movement of water transporting sediments is in a zigzag pattern along the beach face.

A

Beach Drift

18
Q

currents that flows parallel to the shore produced within the surf when waves approaching the shore is at an angle

A

longshore current

19
Q

concentrated movements of water that flow in the opposite direction ferom breaking waves

A

rip current

20
Q

unconfined flow across the ocean bottom where the backswash flows back to the ocean

A

Sheet flow