Waves Flashcards
What is a wave?
A periodic disturbance in a medium or in space, where energy is transferred
from one place to another by vibrations.
Crest
highest point of the wave
Trough
lowest point of the wave
Wave height
vertical distance
between wave crest and trough
Still water level
Level of the water
if there were no waves
Wavelength
distance between to
adjacent crests (or troughs)
Orbit
the orbital path of water as wave moves
Wind strength
the speed of the wind over water
Wind duration
he uninterrupted time during which wind blows in the same
direction over the water.
Fetch
the uninterrupted surface over which the wind blows.
Deep water waves
waves moving through water that is deeper than half their wavelength (i.e. the wave is not influenced by the bottom)
Shallow water waves
waves moving through water that is shallower than 1/20
of their wavelength
Transitional waves
waves that are in water deeper than 1/20 but shallower
than ½ their wavelength.
plunging waves
Waves breaking in areas with steep slopes
create
spilling waves
whereas areas
with gradual slopes create
Wave Refraction
As waves lines approach shore at an angle, different parts of the wave line
slow down at different rates, causing the wave lines to bend
Wave reflection
As waves approach and hit a large obstruction, they will reflect off of that object. Waves hitting an obstruction straight on will reflect back into the
same direction that they came from, interfering with the oncoming waves and creating standing waves
internal waves form
between the transition of water masses of different densities
Wave Diffraction
This is the propagation of waves around objects. Objects can interfere with the waves, bending waves and creating new nodes from which the waves
propagate from… Diffraction of waves past chains of islands can cause areas of wave crest
reinforcement
