Waves Flashcards
What is the main cause of waves in coastal areas?
Waves are primarily caused by the wind blowing over the surface of the water.
True or False: Larger waves are typically generated by stronger winds.
True
What term describes the distance between two consecutive wave crests?
Wavelength
What are the two main types of waves that affect coastlines?
Destructive waves and constructive waves.
Which type of wave is characterised by a strong backwash and weak swash?
Destructive waves
What is the primary impact of constructive waves on the coastline?
They build up beaches by depositing sand.
True or False: Destructive waves erode the coastline.
True
What is the relationship between wave energy and wave height?
Higher waves generally have more energy.
Fill in the blank: _____ refers to the movement of water towards the shore.
Swash
What is the term for the movement of water away from the shore?
Backwash
What is wave frequency?
The number of waves that pass a fixed point in a given time period.
What effect do longshore currents have on sediment transport?
They move sediment along the coast.
What is the primary role of waves in coastal erosion?
Waves erode rocks and sediments, reshaping the coastline.
What is the term for the gradual process of wave action shaping the coastline?
Coastal erosion
True or False: Wave refraction can concentrate wave energy on certain parts of the coastline.
True
What is the effect of wave energy on coastal landforms?
Wave energy can create features such as cliffs, beaches, and sand dunes.
Fill in the blank: The _____ is the point where a wave breaks.
shoreline
What is a key characteristic of storm waves compared to regular waves?
Storm waves are typically larger and more powerful.
What is the result of wave action?
Erosion and sediment deposition
What is the process of waves breaking on the shore called?
Wave breaking
True or False: The angle at which waves approach the shore can affect erosion patterns.
True
Fill in the blank: _____ waves have a gentle slope and are good for surfing.
Constructive
What is the definition of ‘fetch’?
Fetch is the distance over water that the wind blows in a single direction.
True or False: The greater the fetch, the larger the waves can become.
True
What is the primary factor that causes waves in the ocean?
Waves in the ocean are primarily caused by wind
Fill in the blank: The prevailing wind is the wind that blows predominantly from a ________ direction in a particular region.
single
Multiple Choice: Which of the following factors does NOT influence wave height? A) Wind speed B) Fetch C) Water temperature D) Duration of wind
C) Water temperature
