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A2 Geog - coastal environments > Waves > Flashcards

Waves Flashcards

1
Q

Define a wave

A

The oscillation (back and forth movement) of the water surface

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2
Q

What shapes waves?

A

Wind blowing over a smooth sea surface, causing ripples which grow into waves.

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3
Q

What 2 factors can also influence waves?

A
  • Tides
  • Earthquakes
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4
Q

What controls wave energy and size?

A
  • Wind strength & duration
  • Fetch
  • Depth of seabed
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5
Q

What direction do waves move in once created?

A

The direction of the wind that created them

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6
Q

What part of the wave moves?

A

The wave form

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7
Q

Describe the movement of water and energy within a wave

A

Wave particles simply rotate in a circular or elliptical movement as the wave passed through. It is the energy of the wave that moves towards the shore

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8
Q

What happens to the waves energy when a wave breaks?

A

It translates into the movement of water towards the shore.

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9
Q

What is a wave of translation?

A

Water that reaches the shore

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10
Q

What happens when a wave base comes into contact with the seabed?

A

Friction slows down the wave advance which causes the wave front to crowd together.

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11
Q

Define wave shoaling

A

The shortening of the wave which causes an increase in wave height - creating a breaker.

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12
Q

What are the 3/4 main types of breaking waves?

A
  • Plunging
  • Surging
  • Spilling
  • Collapsing
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13
Q

Define trough

A

The lowest part of the wave

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14
Q

Define crest

A

The highest part of the wave

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15
Q

Define wave length

A

The distance between two successive crests

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16
Q

Define circular motion

A

Waves have a circular orbit or motion

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17
Q

Define wave height

A

The vertical difference between the trough and crest

18
Q

What is the still water level

A

The level the sea would be at if there was no wind and therefore no waves

19
Q

Define wave period

A

The time taken for a wave to complete one cycle

20
Q

Define wave velocity

A

The distance travelled by a wave per unit of time

21
Q

Define wave frequency

A

The number of waves breaking on a beach per minute

22
Q

Define wave steepness

A

The ratio of the wave height to the wave length

23
Q

Define wave energy

A

The transport and capture of energy by ocean surface waves

24
Q

Define swash

A

The rush of seawater up the beach after the breaking of a wave

25
Q

Define backwash

A

The flow of seawater back down the beach and into the sea. This is caused by gravity

26
Q

What are the two wave types?

A

Constructive and destructive waves

27
Q

Is backwash or swash stronger in a destructive wave?

A

Backwash

28
Q

Is backwash or swash stronger in a constructive wave?

A

Swash

29
Q

What process occurs as a result of a destructive wave?

A

Erosion (beach removal)

30
Q

What process occurs as a result of a constructive wave?

A

Deposition (beach building)

31
Q

Are destructive waves flat or tall?

A

Tall

32
Q

Do destructive waves have a high or low frequency?

A

High - due to the short wavelength

33
Q

Do destructive waves create flat or steep beaches?

A

Steep

34
Q

Which type of wave is weaker?

A

Constructive

35
Q

Are constructive waves frequent or infrequent?

A

Infrequent

36
Q

Do constructive waves create flat or steep beaches?

A

Flat

37
Q

What type of wave is more dangerous to humans?

A

Destructive

38
Q

When does wave refraction occur?

A

When waves approach an irregular coastline or are at an oblique angle

39
Q

What does wave refraction

A

It causes wave fronts to break parallel to the shore.
It concentrates energy into the sides of the headlands and dissipates energy in bays.

40
Q

Name 5 bullet points used towards an exam question on wave refraction

A
  • Orthogonal’s are equally spaced away from the coast/change shape as they get closer to the shore
  • As they approach the coast, they start to change direction/bend (wrap) around the headland.
  • They converge on the sides of the headland
  • They diverge in the bays, very little wave energy
  • Concentrated where seabed contours are closer together
  • In bay, parallel to the shore

A2 Geog - coastal environments (4 decks)

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