waves

Question 1

how do waves form?

Answer 1

wind blows over the surface of the sea, as friction drags along, it creates ripples.

Question 2

what determines the wave size?

Answer 2

• wind strength
• how far the wind has blown (fetch)
• how far the wave has travelled

Question 3

define ‘fetch’:

Answer 3

the distance of the sea over which the wind has travelled.

Question 4

describe constructive waves:

Answer 4

• strong swash
• weak backwash
• low wave height (from trough to crest)
• very long wave length (from crest to creat)
• ‘calm’ sea
• cause deposition (construct a beach)
• occur during summer
• low frequency (8-10 times per minute)

Question 5

describe destructive waves:

Answer 5

• weak swash
• incredibly strong backwash
• high wave height
• shorter wave length
• erode and destroy the coast
• common in winter
• higher frequency (10-40 waves per minute)