waves Flashcards
1
Q
what is wavelength?
A
- horizontal distance between successive crests
2
Q
what is height of a wave?
A
- vertical distance between crest and trough
3
Q
what is period of a wave?
A
- time interval between succesive crestspassing a point
4
Q
example of generating force?
A
- wind stress
5
Q
example of restoring force?
A
- gravity
6
Q
what does energy/ size of wave depend on?
A
- wind speed
- wind duration
- fetch
- original sea state
7
Q
for large fetch and duration, size of wave depends on?
A
- only on wind speeds
8
Q
what are deep water waves?
A
- water particle orbits are circular
- forward beneath crest
- backwards beneath trough
9
Q
properties of deep water waves?
A
- particle orbits are closed
- no net flow of water
- energy and momentum transferred by waves
10
Q
properties of waves at surface and for larger waves?
A
- particle orbits are open
- net forwards flow of water (stokes drift)
- mass transport of water due to waves
11
Q
properties of shallow water waves?
A
- particles orbit influenced by seabed
- orbits compressed in vertical = ellipses
- to an fro motion at seabed
12
Q
storm winds are..?
A
- unsteady
- variable direction
13
Q
waves generated are…?
A
- forced waves
- irregular
- mixed characteristics
- known as SEA
14
Q
what is deep water wave formulae?
A
C = gT/ 2(pie)
15
Q
what is disprsion?
A
- waves become sorted by length
