Waves Flashcards

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1
Q
A

Wave length

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2
Q
A

Wave crest

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3
Q
A

Wave trough

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4
Q
A

Wave height

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5
Q

Movement of water up a beach after the wave had broken

A

Swash

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6
Q

Flow of water down the beach after the wave has broken

A

Backwash

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7
Q

.Not much wave power
.very long wave length
.not big move height

A

Spilling breaker

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8
Q

.moderate bottom slope
.powerful
.long wave length
.quite heigh

A

Plunging breaker

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9
Q

.steep bottom slope
.quite powerful
.short wave length
.high height

A

Surging breaker

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10
Q

The distance of open water in one direction from a coastline, over which the wind can be blown

A

Fetch

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11
Q

Low flat waves, with strong swash - weak backwash

A

Constructive waves

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12
Q

.large steep wave
.weak swash
.strong backwash

A

Deconstructive waves

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